Chemical peeling for the face: types and benefits. Chemical peels. Theory and practice

Chemical peeling of the face: effective or not, is it worth doing?

Can't decide on a chemical facial peel? Have you heard a lot of both good and bad reviews about this procedure? Don’t know the difference between superficial chemical peeling and medium and deep peeling? Who is this procedure indicated and contraindicated for? What side effects are possible after using this technique? We will answer all these and other frequently asked questions by readers.

What information will you find out:

What is chemical peeling and its types

Effect of carrying out chemical peeling lasts quite a long time – for 6 – 12 months

In the fight against complex defects of the skin surface, a chemical peeling procedure is recommended - removing the dead layer of cells that prevents its renewal, deep regeneration and restoration. It is carried out using specially selected concentrations and solutions of acids that can penetrate different layers of the skin.

After this procedure, the skin is renewed, rejuvenated, the synthesis of collagen and elastin is accelerated, and its elasticity increases.

There are superficial, medium and deep facial peels depending on the degree of penetration of the selected drugs under the skin.

The effect of such peeling lasts quite a long time - for 6 - 12 months, which contributes to the constant increase in its popularity among middle-aged women.

Superficial peeling is called peeling, which removes the stratum corneum from upper layers epidermis. The result will be an even complexion, reduced pores, smoothed out fine wrinkles and removed acne. This type of peeling includes almond, salicylic, pyruvic, milk.

Peeling is considered to be medium, performed using acids that penetrate the entire depth of the epidermis, that is, to the basal layer. This includes TCA, retinoic, phenolic. It helps get rid of more complex skin problems such as deep wrinkles, scars, scars, hyperpigmentation, old red spots.

Deep peeling penetrates into the deep layers of the dermis, allowing you to effectively get rid of old scars, scars, and noticeable wrinkles. It is performed using high concentrations of phenolic or trichloroacetic acid in a hospital setting with the mandatory use of anesthesia.

How the procedure is performed

After applying the appropriate acid, leave it on the skin surface for 2 to 10 minutes.

The chemical facial peeling method consists of 5 main stages and lasts on average about an hour.

Before the session begins, the cosmetologist is obliged to test the skin for sensitivity to the selected acids in order to exclude the occurrence of an allergic reaction!

They begin by cleansing the facial skin with specially selected hypoallergenic and antibacterial products in accordance with its type and condition.
Next, a selected chemical preparation with a certain concentration of acid, depending on the existing defect, is applied to extremely dry skin.
After applying the appropriate acid, it is kept on the surface of the skin for 2 to 10 minutes. In this case, the patient feels a burning sensation and a slight tingling sensation, which stops when the acid is neutralized with a buffer (alkaline) solution, restoring the normal pH level of the skin surface.
This is followed by appropriate post-peeling care in the form of applying serums, soothing masks, creams that restore the integrity of the skin, increase its protective properties and normalize the acid balance.
A light massage by a specialist cosmetologist followed by cleansing the skin and applying sunscreen is the final stage of the procedure.

If you decide to undergo chemical peeling, it is important to know for which skin defects it is really effective. The procedure will help get rid of:

extensive pigment spots;
acne;
uneven skin surface after acne;
old scars, scars;
noticeable wrinkles;
consequences of photoaging;
decreased tone with loss of elasticity.

When is chemical peeling contraindicated?

Carefully study the following list of contraindications to the use of the procedure, which does not recommend its implementation when:

pregnancy and breastfeeding;
any skin lesions (inflammatory, infectious and chronic);
hypersensitivity and allergic reaction to drug components;
oncological processes in the body and protruding neoplasms (moles, warts, papillomas) on the skin of the face;
epilepsy;
keloid scars;
chronic;
rosacea (visible and dilated blood vessels on the face);
exposure to laser, phototherapy, and other types of peeling in less than six months.

Recommended age and period of year for the procedure

Professional cosmetologists advise using this technique during periods of the year with the least solar activity.

For the successful and most effective use of this technique, both the patient’s age and the climatic period should be taken into account. Women over 30 years old who have visible age-related changes in the skin with decreased tone, loss of elasticity, and the appearance of wrinkles can be recommended to undergo this rejuvenation procedure.

Professional cosmetologists advise using this technique during periods of the year with the least solar activity, that is, from the end of September to the end of April. In other months (from May to September), chemical peeling is strictly prohibited, as it can cause increased hyperpigmentation and deep burns skin.

Possible side effects

With superficial peeling, there are practically no side effects. In some cases, redness of the skin is possible, which disappears within 3 hours after the end of the procedure.

When the middle layers are affected, redness and peeling of the skin may appear, usually disappearing within 4 to 5 days after the procedure.

Deep peeling is characterized by persistent redness, the formation of crusts on the surface of the skin, as well as a long recovery period - about 2 - 3 weeks.

The number of procedures and the period of their implementation are determined individually for each patient.

What complications can there be?

Medium and deep chemical peels can cause the following serious complications if they are performed by an unqualified, inexperienced specialist without proper preliminary preparation of the skin and proper aftercare:

chemical burns of the face caused by incorrect selection of the drug, its concentration and time spent on the skin;

folliculitis and, provoked by the selection of low-quality healing and restorative care products;

bacterial and fungal infections that occur due to non-compliance with hygiene measures and lack of antibacterial treatment of the surfaces of the cosmetologist’s hands, as well as the patient’s skin;

hypopigmentation associated with the loss of one’s own pigment that occurs when treating dark skin;

demarcation lines showing the boundaries of treated and untreated skin;

scars that appear as a result of constant itching and persistent redness of the skin surface;

telangiectasia or the appearance of visible spider veins that become especially noticeable and clearly defined;

recurrent herpes, which may appear in individuals prone to exacerbation of this viral infection due to the absence of antiviral and immunostimulating drugs.

Do not hesitate to ask the cosmetologist who will perform chemical peeling to show you for review all documents about education, work experience, certificates received and permits to engage in this activity in order to protect yourself as much as possible from negative consequences caused by incompetence and professional illiteracy.

What not to do after the procedure

During the recovery and rehabilitation period, you should not forget about the cosmetologist’s recommendations and strictly adhere to the rules prohibiting:

be under direct ultraviolet rays;
visit baths, saunas, swimming pools, solariums;
touch the skin and remove the crusts that form on your own;
use scrubs and;
apply decorative cosmetics;
use formulations containing alcohols;
smoking and drinking alcohol;
engage in active physical exercise.

Video: Chemical peeling of the face with Elena Malysheva

After undergoing a chemical peeling procedure, you will soon see in the mirror the young, radiant skin that you once admired in your youth!

Peeling, or exfoliation, is the removal of keratinized scales of the epidermis. A simple technique allows you to narrow pores and restore healthy color face, as well as even out the surface of the skin, making it smooth and velvety. Isn’t this the dream of all representatives of the fair half of humanity without exception? Since the procedure is short and not particularly expensive, millions of women around the world regularly achieve beauty in this way both at home and in salons. Currently, the following types of peelings are distinguished in cosmetology:

chemical;
mechanical;

In this article we will take a detailed look at chemical peeling, because it has long been one of the most popular and effective peelings, we will touch on both its positive and negative aspects, and we will learn how to choose the right composition depending on the skin type.

What is a chemical facial peel?

Chemical peeling is a procedure for removing a layer of keratinized epithelium using low concentration acid solutions. The main goal of this technique is facial care after 25 years, maintaining skin tone and smoothness. A special composition applied to the surface of the epidermis helps its rapid renewal, making the skin smooth and elastic. Due to cell division, fine wrinkles leave their owners immediately, and deep ones decrease more and more with each session.

The main active ingredients in any chemical exfoliation are acids. Depending on their concentration, several types of cosmetic peelings are distinguished:

surface;
median;
deep.

Superficial chemical peeling

This light type of peeling is one of the most common; it is often used at home without fear of causing a burn. The composition of such peels usually includes lactic, salicylic or glycolic acids, which are not aggressive. This peeling helps get rid of:

age spots;
acne;
acne;
freckles;
enlarged pores;
shine on the face fat type skin.

Medium chemical peel

This type of peeling is made with 20-50% trichloroacetic acid and acts on the level of all layers of the epidermis. Thanks to this procedure you can eliminate:

pigmentation;
scars;
fine wrinkles and reduce deep ones;

Medium chemical peeling can be used not only for the face, it is also perfect for the décolleté area, for the arms and legs. Most often, women aged 25-30 resort to this type of peeling. Unlike superficial peeling, medium peeling requires some preparation before the procedure. Two weeks before visiting a cosmetologist, you must use creams containing glycolic acid, or go for a one-time superficial peeling procedure for proper preparation skin.

Deep peeling

For deep peeling, phenol derivatives are used, which affect all layers of the skin, while severely damaging it. That is why this procedure is not so often used in cosmetology, being considered very aggressive. This type is shown when:

deep wrinkles, loose skin and widespread pigmentation in people over 60 years of age;
rough scars.

Unlike the previous two, this type of peeling is very painful and is performed under anesthesia. After the procedure, you must follow bed rest and take anti-inflammatory drugs for a long time, you should also avoid direct sunlight on your entire face rehabilitation period which is about 3-4 weeks.

How does the procedure of superficial and medium peeling work?

Depending on the problem area, as well as the depth of exposure, the time of the procedure depends. On average, it takes from 20-30 minutes, but can reach 1 hour. Professional chemical peeling is carried out by a dermatologist in a salon.

Before the procedure, together with a specialist, you need to discuss all the indications, contraindications, concentration of acids, the number of procedures to achieve the desired effect, and be sure to carry out an allergy test for the product that will be used for chemical peeling.

If there is no allergy to the drugs, the cosmetologist begins to perform the manipulation:

The skin is cleansed with special products, which are selected individually for each person, depending on the type and age-related changes skin.
After cleaning, the acids themselves are applied directly to the dry surface; as a rule, they begin by applying low concentration acids (10-15%) with low rate pH (equal to 4). Each subsequent procedure, the concentration of acids increases and the pH decreases. During the last session, the concentration can reach 80%, and the pH is 0.8.
The applied solution is left for several minutes (the exact amount of time directly depends on the exposure of the drug), while the patient may feel slight discomfort, which manifests itself in tingling and tingling of the skin.
Having endured right time, the cosmetologist applies alkali to the skin, which instantly normalizes the pH level and neutralizes the effect of acids.
After the main procedure, the doctor applies a soothing cream or mask with light massaging movements, thereby relieving discomfort.
The final stage is the application of a cream or serum with a protective factor against ultraviolet exposure.

Deep chemical peeling procedure

As for the deep peeling procedure, it is fundamentally different from the superficial and median peeling in that during the procedure the patient is connected to a heart monitor and is in artificial sleep.

In order for the procedure to go without complications, you must adhere to the following rules:

before starting the process, the patient is recommended to drink 2 liters of water;
During the procedure, you need to administer a glucose solution intravenously, which will prevent dehydration of the body;
phenol is applied little by little to obviously separated areas with pauses of 10-15 minutes;
after removing phenol from the surface, it is treated with antiseptic agents, if necessary, painkillers are administered;
After all stages, apply a thick layer of cream.

After peeling, you need to constantly moisturize your face using rich creams. Also, in order to prevent unwanted complications and reduce discomfort, all patients who have undergone a deep peeling procedure take NSAIDs (non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs).

Since chemical peeling involves the use of acids that damage the skin, this procedure It is appropriate to carry out only in the cold season (late autumn, winter, early spring). In summer, chemical peeling is strictly contraindicated.

Like any cosmetic procedure, there are indications and contraindications for chemical peeling.

Indications:

dark spots, scars, pimples, freckles, acne, stretch marks;
wrinkles;
uneven skin texture;
oily skin.

Contraindications to chemical peeling can be divided into absolute and relative.

The absolute ones include:

inflammatory processes and various skin lesions;
allergic reactions to chemicals used during the procedure;
pregnancy, lactation;
epilepsy;
renal and/or liver failure;
cardiovascular diseases.

The relative ones include:

any neoplasms;
keloid scars;
rosacea;
herpetic rashes;
allergic dermatitis;
sensitive skin;
mental illness.

Nowadays, almost no salon can do without a chemical peeling procedure. Prices for cosmetologist services vary significantly, and mainly depend on the products used during the session. If we take the cost of the most famous peelings in Moscow, then the prices are as follows:

Glycolic peeling– from 700 to 13,000 rubles.
Yellow peeling – from 1,500 to 25,000 rubles.
– from 3,500 to 27,000 rubles.
– from 1,500 to 20,000 rubles.
Salicylic peeling – from 1,700 to 25,000 rubles.

Based on the rather high prices for this procedure, many people wonder whether it is possible to do chemical peeling at home? Of course you can, but you need to choose the right products for the procedure and adhere to certain rules to avoid complications. In addition, at home you can only do the most harmless peeling – superficial. All others are carried out only with the help professional compositions in salons.

At home, you can use products sold in specialized stores, or prepare them yourself. It should be remembered that the concentration of acids should be minimal so as not to destroy the deep layers of the skin and cause a serious burn. Most common pharmaceutical products for peeling – salicylic, glycolic, lactic or mandelic acids. The procedure for carrying out the procedure at home is as follows:

Before applying the composition to the skin, it is imperative to do an allergy test. To do this, apply to the skin of the wrist a small amount of products and distribute evenly, observing the skin reaction for 15 minutes. If the surface has not undergone any changes during this time, this peeling You can safely apply it to your face.
To prepare the skin, it must first be cleaned. To do this, you can use special milk or micellar water.
Apply the acid composition to a dry, clean surface and distribute it evenly. Exposure time averages 5-7 minutes.
After waiting time, the peeling should be rinsed off very thoroughly with warm water.
The finishing touch is to apply a buffer solution to restore normal pH.
If desired, you can apply nourishing cream to the skin.

For each skin type, the number of procedures and recommendations are different. For oily skin, exfoliation can be used daily, and chemical superficial peeling can be used once every 10 days. For dry skin, a course of 7-10 sessions with an interval of 7 days is required, and it is advisable to use fruit acids that moisturize the skin.

Recipes for preparing peeling at home

Salt peeling

Take 1 tablespoon of cream and 1 teaspoon of salt, mix thoroughly. Apply an even layer to cleansed skin and wash off after 20 minutes with cool water and soap (acting as a lye). Then apply facial care cream.

Classic peeling

Take ammonia and camphor alcohol in equal quantities (about 15 ml each), mix them with glycerin, boric acid and a pre-crushed tablet of hydroperite (urea peroxide). Add grated soap to the resulting mixture until you get a creamy consistency. Apply to skin and wait until the mixture dries completely. Wash off with 10% calcium chloride applied to a napkin. Finally, wash your face warm water. This recipe helps get rid of pimples, acne and age spots on the face.

Peeling with lactic acid

Apply a solution of lactic acid to cleansed facial skin, starting from top to bottom, that is, from the forehead and ending with the chin. It should be washed off after 2 minutes, and movements should be made in the opposite direction - from bottom to top, that is, from the chin to the forehead. After the procedure, you need to apply a cream or make a soothing mask. This peeling is carried out once every 10 days. The course consists of 10 procedures.

Chemical peeling during pregnancy

During pregnancy, hormonal changes occur in the body of every expectant mother, which, in turn, affects the condition of the skin, and not always in positive side. Many women before pregnancy use various peels, including chemical peels, so they have a question: is it possible to resort to this procedure while carrying a child to improve the condition of their skin?

Not all chemical peels are safe for the expectant mother and her baby. During this period, you should avoid deep peeling, as it has an aggressive effect on the skin. To ensure that acids do not harm the baby, you must be very careful in choosing the composition, and it is best to first consult with a specialist.

Chemical peeling consists of a large amount of acids, and the main component in almost all solutions is vitamin A. Excessive intake of this vitamin into the body of a pregnant woman can have a teratogenic effect on the fetus. Safe peelings include milk, almond and glycolic. They do not penetrate deep into the skin, but act only on its surface. It follows from this that you can use it during pregnancy only with the lightest types of peeling after the doctor’s approval.

Chemical peeling for hands

Since the skin of the hands is exposed to various irritants every day external environment, she ages early, pigment spots often form on her. It’s not without reason that they say that a woman’s age can be easily guessed by her hands. Chemical peeling can also help cope with this problem. A few weeks before the procedure, you should not sunbathe; you must protect the skin of your hands with special creams.

Before the procedure, the dermatologist determines the phototype and condition of the skin and, based on the data obtained, selects topical remedy. Most often, medium peeling is used for hands. The skin is degreased, the solution is applied in several layers so that the substances act more intensely. A few days after the procedure, swelling and redness of the skin may occur. Chemical hand peeling requires at least six sessions spaced two weeks apart.

Foot peeling

Fruit acids are most often used for feet, as they penetrate deep into the tissues without damaging them. This is a very important aspect, because calluses and rough skin often form on the feet, and with the help of these acid properties you can easily get rid of these problems. For efficiency and to reduce the number of procedures, mixtures of acids are used, which help not only get rid of skin problems, but also give it a fresh look.

Chemical body peeling

Depending on the area of peeling and the desired effect, the dermatologist will select the individual concentration of the solution and the number of procedures. Most often, glycolic acid is used for body peeling in concentrations from 5% to 70%. During the procedure, dead epithelial particles are removed, acne and scars disappear, and function improves. sebaceous glands.

Chemical peeling for stretch marks

Stretch marks (striae) are stripes of different colors that resemble scars that are formed due to prolonged stretching of the skin. For many women, they appear during pregnancy, but they can also form during sudden weight gain or, conversely, excessively rapid weight loss. Chemical peeling is currently effective in combating them. With the help of acids, the skin texture is evened out and cell regeneration processes are launched.

Laser resurfacing or chemical peeling - what to choose?

Laser resurfacing and chemical peeling are aimed at the same goal - to remove keratinized scales from the surface of the skin. The advantage of the laser is that the depth of the beam can be controlled with high precision, and the skin is not exposed to chemicals such as phenol.

In addition, the entire laser resurfacing procedure can be completed in just one session, without prior preparation, which cannot be said about chemical peeling. But chemical peeling also has many advantages, for example, superficial peeling can be used during pregnancy, but laser resurfacing is completely contraindicated in this condition.

Therefore, it is impossible to answer the question of which is better; both methods have their pros and cons, so the choice depends on the specific problem, contraindications, age and many other factors that the doctor takes into account.

Chemical peeling is a cosmetic procedure aimed at rejuvenating and eliminating skin defects, for which chemicals are used that cause controlled chemical burn skin to a given depth.

The mechanism of action is based on negative stimulation - activation of regenerative processes in the skin in response to damage. Depending on the depth of the burn, the skin reaction is formed varying degrees intensity.

Kinds

Surface

Target:

cause intensive renewal of the upper layer of skin;
cleansing the mouths of the sebaceous glands from the flakes of dead skin covering them;
elimination of shallow pigmentation and lightening of facial skin;
normalization of the acid-base balance of the skin;
reducing the number of pathogenic bacteria, the growth of which is disrupted in the acidic environment normal for the skin;
reducing the production of sebum by the sebaceous glands;
eliminating hyperkeratosis and smoothing the skin surface;
loosening the surface layer of the epidermis to facilitate mechanical cleaning and facilitate penetration active ingredients cosmetics into the deep layers of the skin.

Superficial - affects only the upper layers of the skin. This means that it does not in any way affect the deep processes of the skin such as:

Superficial peeling is often mistaken for rejuvenation as a result of exfoliation, after which the skin reflects light differently due to greater smoothness.

The effect of whitening and lightening age spots is again given as the result of exfoliation, after which the skin becomes much lighter before the first exposure to the sun.

Video: Chemical cleaning of leather

Who is it suitable for?

teenagers and young people with oily sensitive skin, acne, acne and post-acne;
people aged 25-35 years to improve the appearance of the skin and eliminate cosmetic defects;
people over 35-40 years old to prepare for medium peels.

Not all chemical peels are suitable for dry skin. The best solution in this case there will be milk or almond and abundant hydration in the post-peeling period.

Median

Competition among cosmetologists has led to medium peels They do it now almost from the age of 18. The practice is inherently vicious, since there is no point in using it before the age of 35-40.

At this age, the skin itself copes well with the production of collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid. Therefore, it is much more important to choose the right care and connect such cosmetic procedures such as facial massage, cryotherapy or microcurrents and other physiotherapeutic techniques.

Performed without taking into account indications and age, such cleaning in most cases leads to disappointment of the client, who before the procedure, instead of reliable information, receives advertising promises, and the appearance of reviews about ineffectiveness, uselessness, and sometimes even its harmfulness.

Purpose:

active cellular renewal of the upper layers of the skin, thickening the skin, smoothing its surface;
stimulation of fibroblasts, increasing the production of collagen and elastin to the same level as in young skin;
influence on blood vessels, strengthening the vascular wall, improving blood circulation in the skin;
decrease in the number of melanocytes, suppression of melanin synthesis.

It acts deeper than the surface, but is not able to completely renew the framework of collagen and elastin fibers or cause significant renewal of the skin throughout its entire thickness. Therefore, it cannot completely rid the client of facial scars and stretch marks.

Skin defects can be smoothed out by smoothing their contours, but complete disappearance of defects is quite difficult to achieve.

Some cosmetologists go so far as to apply more concentrated acid solutions to defects during the procedure or leave them on for longer than the protocol requires.

In some cases, this is painless for the client, but sometimes scars or areas of smooth skin are left, completely devoid of pigment, which differs sharply in color from the surrounding healthy skin.

Deep peeling

During this procedure, the skin is burned down to the reticular layer of the dermis. It is carried out only in medical centers under anesthesia and in the presence of an anesthesiologist-resuscitator and requires a long recovery period.

If they did it without anesthesia and sent you home the same day with a jar of cream similar to Vaseline, then you were simply misled and they gave you a medium peel at the price of a deep peel.

The ability to tolerate pain does not play any role in whether a deep peel procedure will be performed under anesthesia or not. This is the same as deciding whether to have pain relief before surgery for appendicitis.

One more distinctive feature There is a long recovery period, which normally takes from six months to 10 months. If you peeled off for a week or two and got a smooth face, then this is also not a deep peeling, but a medium one.

The purpose of deep cleaning is:

complete destruction and replacement of the deteriorated skin frame made of collagen and elastin fibers;
activation of hyaluronic acid production to maintain normal level hydration from the inside;
radical renewal of the cellular composition of the skin.

This procedure is performed no earlier than 55 years.

Active substances for the preparation of solutions or gels

Fruit

This group of substances is also known as AHA acids or alpha hydroxy acids. These include malic, glycolic, tartaric, lactic and citric acids. All fruit acids are highly soluble in water.

The general properties of AHA acids are:

the ability to destroy intercellular cement and accelerate exfoliation of the stratum corneum of the skin, cleanse the mouths of the sebaceous glands;
indirect stimulation of skin hydration by increasing the content of functionally active natural moisturizing factor;
the ability to cause, with prolonged use, a change in the structure of the skin, in which the epidermis becomes thinner and the dermis thickens;
the ability to protect skin cells from the action of free radicals, i.e. have an antioxidant effect;
reduction in the severity of the inflammatory reaction of the skin in response to any external influences, elimination of redness;
toxic effects on pathogenic bacteria and fungi that can cause disease.

Beta hydroxy acids

They are BHA acids. They have one fundamental difference from fruit acids: they are slightly soluble in water, but highly soluble in fats.

In addition to the properties listed above, beta hydroxy acids specifically affect the activity of the sebaceous glands and the composition of their secretions. Under the influence of BHA acids, sebum becomes more fluid, which is an excellent prevention of the formation of blackheads, acne and closed comedones.

Beta-hydroxy acids include salicylic acid.

Azelaic, kojic, retinoic

In addition to the properties characteristic of hydroxy acids, it has the ability to reduce the activity of abnormal melanocytes, which cause the appearance of foci of pigmentation and melasma. They block the activity of the enzyme tyrosinase, which is involved in the production of melanin.

This peeling is indicated for clients with rosacea and rosacea.

Pyruvic acid.
Trichloroacetic acid.
Mandelic acid.

Contraindications

All peels have serious contraindications, which are largely the same for both superficial and deep.

Video: Surface cleaning with glycolic acid

Active sun

Any chemical peels increase skin sensitivity to sunlight. The possibility of performing this during the period is now being actively discussed. active sun and even before going on vacation to the sea, where the sun generally bakes mercilessly, and the main pastime is visiting the beach.

In those countries where it's summer all year round, peelings are also performed all year round. But with the condition of mandatory use sunscreen with an SPF protection factor of at least 50. The period of time when the skin needs protection from the sun will also differ for different peels. For superficial it is 2-3 weeks, for TCA it is a year from the date of the procedure.

Considering the somewhat optional nature of their clients, who may forget about sun protection, many cosmetologists do not risk carrying out peelings in the spring and summer, so as not to listen to reproaches and accusations that pigmentation appeared after the peeling.

And why expose yourself to the risk of age spots and accelerating photoaging of the skin, when there is an excellent opportunity to do peelings in the autumn-winter period?

Fungal, bacterial, viral diseases

While everything is clear with fungal and bacterial infections, the manifestations of a viral infection and the risks associated with it are often underestimated by clients. Loosening of the epidermis and traumatization of such skin manifestations of a viral infection as papillomas, warts, herpetic blisters, elements of molluscum contagiosum, can lead to a significant spread of the virus.

For example, one small wart on the skin of the hand after chemical peeling of the hands can give rise to more than a dozen new warts in a short time.

Poor tolerance to procedures and microdermabrasion in the past.
The presence of hypertrophic or keloid scars on the skin.

Sprawl connective tissue at the site of skin damage is a contraindication for their implementation, so as not to provoke the appearance of scars and scars at the site of the crusts torn off by the client.

The fish used for peeling do not have sharp teeth, so the procedure is absolutely painless and safe. Details in the article -.

Despite the fact that ultrasonic facial peeling has many advantages, it also has some contraindications. .

The presence of deep pigmentation, traumatic or post-inflammatory

The contraindication is not absolute. With the right approach, almost any pigmentation can be significantly lightened by a sensible selection of cleaning products and home care products.

But if the cosmetologist does not have a choice of products, and does not have experience working with peelings of various compositions, then there may be more harm than good.

Tendency to allergic reactions

Typically, those clients who are prone to allergic reactions note a greater degree of swelling and redness of the skin after the procedure. Therefore, it is advisable to have an antihistamine on hand.

Hormonal levels during pregnancy are such that the result of peeling can be unpredictable. Plus, pregnant women are prone to pigmentation. Plus the toxicity of some peeling drugs for the body of the woman and the fetus. At breastfeeding peelings are not recommended both due to hormonal levels and the ability of peeling preparations and toxic products of tissue breakdown to pass through the skin and enter the blood.

Small doses harmful substances will not harm an adult with a healthy liver and kidneys, but may harm a newborn, who may be exposed to breast milk.

Diseases endocrine system, in particular, the thyroid gland.
Diabetes mellitus in the stage of decompensation.

This refers to the stage of diabetes mellitus when vascular damage and decreased immunity begin. However, any minor injury can cause serious purulent inflammation, which can transfer to subcutaneous fat tissue.

Presence of cancer

Everything is so serious that it is undesirable to carry out it even if there are moles on the skin at the site of peeling, since they can develop malignant growth under the influence of the damaging effects of acid.

Violation of the integrity of the skin at the site of conduction

Where there are wounds, cuts, the penetration of acid into the skin will be deeper and the possibility of developing a deep local burn cannot be ruled out.

Use of retinoids topically or orally

If retinoids are used topically, at least a month should pass after they are discontinued. When taking retinoids orally (such as Roaccutane), the break between the end of the intake and the start of peelings should be at least six months.

Dermatoses, psoriasis, atopic dermatitis

Not absolute contraindications. But only a dermatologist can prescribe peelings in such cases.

Diseases of internal organs are acute or exacerbation of chronic ones.
Decompensated diseases of the cardiovascular system.

Here, all diseases accompanied by heart rhythm disturbances come to the fore. Those who have a pacemaker should be especially careful.

An established diagnosis of epilepsy, repeated attacks of convulsions in the past, increased convulsive readiness.
Tuberculosis of any localization.
Recent plastic surgery on the face.
Fresh tan.
Cuperosis, rosacea.

The presence of dilated vessels is a contraindication for most peels except azelaine.

Demodectic mange

Demodex is a skin mite that lives in the mouths of the human sebaceous glands. Normally, reproduction is suppressed immune system person.

If it begins to occur uncontrollably, then the mites clog the hair follicles, and with them the mouths of the sebaceous glands and contribute to the appearance of a profuse pustular rash.

This is what you can see in the photo hair follicle, from which the “tails” of demodexes protrude.

Chemical peeling can become one of the factors of uncontrolled reproduction of mites, therefore, before the procedure, it is advisable to make sure that you do not have demodicosis.

Carrying out microdermabrasion or any laser procedure earlier than 1 month before the peeling procedure.

Video: Chemical surface cleaning

Preparation

Any chemical peeling of the face requires careful preparation of the skin for the action of acids. Without complete pre-peeling care, the effect decreases and the likelihood of side effects. Usually two to three weeks before the procedure mechanical cleaning faces. For all peelings without exception, it is mandatory to use professional means for cleansers and creams with weak concentrations of acids.

They usually contain either any of the fruit acids or salicylic acid. Products based on azelaic acid are used less frequently. The acid content in home cosmetics is usually from 6 to 10 percent. Home remedies to prepare for cleaning are prescribed no earlier than 2-3 weeks before the procedure.

At the same time as you start using home remedies containing acids, you need to start protecting your skin from the sun. Even such a small concentration of acids (6-10%) increases skin sensitivity to sun rays by 50%.

You also need to stop sunbathing and visiting the solarium. Those who had their last episode of exacerbation of herpes (it is often called a “cold on the lips”) earlier than 6 months before the procedure need to start taking antiviral drugs 3-4 days before. Before medium chemical peeling procedures, 2-3 superficial cleaning procedures are required after preparing the skin with products for home use.

Video: Dry cleaning at home

Consequences

Skin redness

It doesn't always happen when superficial peelings and without fail at medians. Usually accompanied by swelling of varying severity.

Peeling

Photo: redness and peeling of the skin

A sign by which most clients mistakenly assess the effectiveness of the procedure. Peeling can be so weak that small flakes are simply washed off with water while washing. Or more noticeable when thin films of skin come off. This is the case with superficial peeling.

Exfoliation of skin layers and crusts are the consequences of medium peeling, when not only it burns and comes off upper layer skin, but also a fibrin film is formed, usually having a brownish color.

Feeling of skin tightness

After superficial peels, a feeling of tightness may be caused by the drying effect of the peel, especially when an alcohol-based peel is applied to the skin. The feeling of tightness after a mid-peeling is largely due to the formation of a fibrin film.

Acid peeling for the face gently affects the upper layers of the skin and destroys the molecular structure of already dead cells. All details at this link.

Side effects

Lack of expected effect

The most common complaint of those who agreed to the peeling procedure without having any indication for it. Doing a medium peel to tighten the pores on your face is not serious.

Also, such a result, or rather the lack of a result, can be obtained by those clients who decide to save on pre-peel preparation and post-peel care.

Development of uncontrolled skin burn

Photo: skin burn

Typically, an uncontrolled burn is either the result of a violation of the technique of performing the procedure, when extra layers of the drug are applied for a more pronounced effect, or an underestimation of the importance of contraindications. This can happen after dermabrasion or laser peeling, when acid is applied to skin that has not yet had time to recover from the first injury.

This can happen when the skin is damaged by the sun or radiation from solarium lamps. It may also be a manifestation of individual skin sensitivity to acid. But these are isolated cases.

Pigmentation

Photo: pigments on the face

This is the most common complication of the peeling procedure. Moreover, it happens both after the superficial and after the middle. The patients themselves are largely to blame for the appearance of pigmentation because they do not use sunscreen or do procedures before traveling to hot countries. But there is also a category of patients in whom pigmentation develops regardless of the sun. This may be traumatic or post-inflammatory pigmentation, methods for preventing which have not yet been developed.

The appearance of a pustular rash

Many clients notice that they have acne after peeling. The rash usually appears within the first week after the procedure. Many cosmetologists do not consider this skin reaction a complication, since the rash usually goes away on its own without treatment or requires only mechanical cleaning.

Often appear in those who neglect the doctor’s recommendations during the rehabilitation period: change bed linen on the first evening after the procedure, refusal to play sports, baths, swimming pools, use of special products with anti-inflammatory and antibacterial components in the composition.

Scar formation

This may be the case if:

the client peels off the crusts that form after peeling;
the cosmetologist applied locally much higher concentrations of acid or increased the time the drug remained on the skin to eliminate defects;
cracking of the fibrin film occurred in the first day or two after its formation, therefore the process of formation of new skin was disrupted.

Absence of complete cure of acne after peelings.

Photo: acne

Peelings improve skin condition and reduce the number of rashes. But it is usually not possible to cure acne, since its occurrence is often caused by internal mechanisms that cannot be affected in any way by acids.

In the presence of acne, a number of cosmetic companies producing peeling preparations have developed home use special anti-acne products that are used both before and after the peeling procedure.

In the line of Alpha complex products holy land, for example, there is even a special lotion for dissolving closed comedones, so as not to further injure the skin with mechanical cleansing.

Severe dry skin

It can happen after any cleanse, but is most often seen after retinol and TCA. Therefore, sometimes, to prevent dry skin, cosmetologists recommend taking a course of mesotherapy or biorevitalization to facilitate the process of skin restoration after treatment.

The appearance of a demarcation line

This is a defect that occurs only after medium and deep peels. It looks like a clear boundary between the renewed skin that was exposed to acid and the old skin where the peeling preparation was not applied. That is why all preparations for medium peeling are used for the skin of the face and the skin around the eyes.

Rehabilitation and recovery

Care during the skin restoration period is almost identical for superficial and medium peeling. It consists in the use of sunscreens, the use of drugs that improve healing and have an antimicrobial effect.

On the second or third day, you can already wash your face with water and a neutral cosmetic cleanser. For the entire peeling period, it is better to take water-based cosmetic serums and ampoule concentrates. After peeling is complete, you can switch to using your regular cosmetic products.

sunbathe and spend time in the sun;
visit the swimming pool, sauna, bathhouse, solarium;
peel off the crusts;
carry out any facial procedures other than intensive exfoliation and moisturizing of the skin in the salon.

Prices

How often can you do it

Superficial ones are usually performed at intervals of 7-10 days. They can be carried out in a course of 6-10 procedures.

The average of different manufacturers differs greatly in the intensity of the effect on the skin, therefore each company supplies its preparations with detailed instructions and protocols, which prescribe the maximum possible quantity procedures for the course and optimal breaks between sessions.

Diamond peeling to some extent disrupts the integrity of the epidermis, which causes cell division. Find out more by following the link.

Before performing acid peeling at home, it is necessary to check the skin's sensitivity to the components of the drug. .

Facial peeling involves removing impurities, dead and old cells from the surface of the skin. The technique is widely used by cosmetologists around the world to cleanse and renew the skin of the face, neck and décolleté.

The effect of peeling directly depends on the method and depth of exposure. Some varieties contribute mechanical removal old cells, during others the cells are chemically dissolved or evaporated from the surface of the skin.

Like any procedure, each type of peeling has its own characteristics, indications and contraindications.

In this article we will look at the main varieties that are used at home, in beauty salons and medical clinics.

Classification of peelings in cosmetology by depth of impact

To understand how peelings work, let’s remember the structural features of human skin:

Human skin consists of three layers. The most superficial is the epidermis, then the dermis and the deepest is the subcutaneous fatty tissue or hypodermis. In turn, the epidermis is divided into 5 layers:

Horny. The outer layer includes dead anucleate cells and flat skin flakes. Contacts the skin and performs a protective function.
Shiny, transitional from dead to living cells.
Granular, consists of flat keratinocytes and branched epidermocytes.
Spiny, includes large keratinocytes.
Basal. It is adjacent to the dermis and consists of keratinocytes and melanocytes containing the pigment “melanin”.

The dermis is the main layer of the skin. The main cells of the dermis are fibroblasts. They synthesize collagen and elastin fibers, which give the skin elasticity.

The dermis consists of 2 layers:

Papillary. It is adjacent to the epidermis and contains a large number of blood vessels.
Reticulate. A deeper layer that borders the hypodermis.

Depending on the depth of exposure to physical factors or active substances, the following types of peelings are distinguished:

1. Superficial.

Works at the level of the stratum corneum of the epidermis. The procedure does not require special skills, as it is not dangerous to the patient and does not affect living cells. Superficial types of peeling do not cause pain.

First of all, the technique is used to cleanse the skin, giving the face smoothness and freshness. Superficial peelings are included in complex procedures, as they improve the penetration of active substances from cosmetics into the skin.

2. Median.

Their effect extends to the living cellular layers of the epidermis (granular, spinous, basal) and the papillary layer of the dermis.

3. Deep.

Affects the epidermis and dermis up to the middle of the mesh layer.

Medium and deep types of peeling are painful for the patient. They require more in-depth knowledge and caution from the cosmetologist, since controlled tissue damage occurs during care.

Damage triggers regeneration processes. Blood rushes to the skin, collagen and elastin fibers are actively synthesized in the dermis, and new, young layers of cells are formed. As a result, it becomes smoother and softer, unevenness, wrinkles, scars and pigmentation spots disappear from its surface.

The deeper the peeling, the longer the recovery period and the stronger the aesthetic effects of rejuvenation.

Depending on the method of exposure, the following types of peelings are distinguished:

Mechanical.
Chemical.
Ultrasonic.
Laser.

Types of mechanical peeling

1. Cosmetic.

Removal of impurities, skin flakes and dead cells is carried out using abrasive particles evenly distributed in a semi-liquid soapy base of the cosmetic product.

The following are added to cosmetics as an abrasive: crushed apricot kernels and nut shells, sea salt, coral chips, clay and algae particles.

Exfoliating cosmetics are called peels or scrubs. They are used in home care And salon procedures to cleanse the skin and stimulate cell renewal. Frequency of use: 1-3 times a week.

Most scrubs have a superficial effect. The exception is products containing coral chips. They have a superficial-medium mechanism of action and are used in a beauty salon.

Peels and scrubs High Quality For professional procedures and home care “Algologie” and “ Beauty Style" You will find .

2. Hardware.

Microdermabrasion.

Involves exposure of the skin to aluminum oxide microcrystals. They are applied to the surface and removed along with dead cells and impurities using a vacuum system.

Microdermabrasion also uses devices that are equipped with diamond-coated applicators.

Brossage or brushing.

The device has rotating attachments in the form of brushes made of natural bristles.

Under the influence of hardware peeling, the blood flow to the tissues increases, the skin and pores are cleansed, and dead cells are exfoliated. After the procedure, the face becomes smoother, softer and more elastic, and acquires a healthy and even color.

The depth of the effect is regulated by the cosmetologist: it is superficial or superficial-medium level.

Hardware peelings can be combined well with manual cleansing and cosmetic programs for oily and aging skin.

Chemical peelings in cosmetology

The technique is based on the interaction of the skin with chemicals, most often acids. As a result of this interaction, the cells get burned. Then they gradually die and expose deeper cellular layers, smoother and fresher.

Standard Chemical Peel Protocol

Makeup removal and skin cleansing.
Application of acid or other chemical substance using a brush or cotton pad on the skin of the face.
The composition is kept on the face for the required amount of time, different for each drug. Then the acid is neutralized with a special alkaline composition and washed off with water.
Soothing mask.
Protective cream.

Contraindications:

Inflammatory skin diseases (eczema, psoriasis, herpes), tendency to form keloid scars, abrasions and scratches, intolerance to drug components, allergic rashes.

The procedure is contraindicated for pregnant women.

The depth of exposure depends on pH and concentration of the composition, as well as exposure time.
To purchase professional cosmetics and chemical peeling compounds, go to.

Types of chemical peels

Surface

Most often, fruit alpha-hydroxy acids are used for the procedure: glycolic, lactic, citric, grape. When applied to the skin, they dissolve the cells of the stratum corneum of the epidermis.
In addition to cleansing and activating renewal organic acids have other positive effects on the skin:

moisturizing;
anti-inflammatory;
normalization of the sebaceous glands.
pigmenting.
antiseptic.

Superficial chemical peeling is indicated for hyperkeratosis, acne and post-acne phenomena, oily skin, enlarged pores, early age-related changes (fine wrinkles, superficial pigmentation).

To achieve a lasting result, a course is required: 10-15 sessions once a week.

Median

It is carried out using preparations of 25-30% trichloroacetic acid and 30% salicylic acid. These substances dissolve the cell layers up to and including the papillary layer.

In response to chemical irritation, the skin turns red and swells. Recovery period lasts 1 week; During this time, dead cells are completely exfoliated.

Medium types of chemical peels are used to combat age-related skin changes: wrinkles, pigmentation spots, decreased skin turgor.

Also, chemicals have an anti-inflammatory and antiseptic effect, normalize the functioning of the sebaceous glands. Therefore, medium peels are used in the complex treatment of acne.

Another area of application of the compositions is the treatment of scars and stretch marks.

Deep

For the procedure, compositions with phenol are most often used. The drug has a deep effect up to the middle of the reticular layer of the dermis and promotes pronounced skin renewal. First of all, phenol peeling is indicated for the correction of pronounced age-related changes in men and women after 40 years.

Indications for phenol peeling:

Wrinkles and folds: nasolabial, glabellar, creases around the lips and eyes.
Hyperpigmentation.
Flabbiness of the skin.
Scars and stretch marks.
Photoaging.

Rehabilitation after the procedure is long: peeling completely disappears after 4-6 weeks. To avoid complications, the patient must strictly follow the doctor’s recommendations regarding pre-peel preparation and post-peel care.

After rehabilitation, the face looks 10 years younger on average. The procedure is carried out once, the effect lasts for several years.

Phenol peeling should not be performed on patients with severe diseases of the cardiovascular system, liver and kidneys.

Ultrasonic peeling in a beauty salon

It is a hardware superficial cleansing procedure, during which dead cells are removed from the facial skin and the pores are cleaned.

Purpose	1. Preparing the skin for other procedures (manual cleansing, mesotherapy, massages, care programs). 2. Cleansing the skin.
Mechanism	The ultrasonic wave that the device emits literally knocks out impurities when reflected from the surface of the skin. The softening and loosening of the epidermis is facilitated by the effect of cavitation, the creation of airless bubbles in the medium through which ultrasonic peeling is carried out.
Indications	Oily and combination skin. Dryness and flaking. Dull, “stressed” skin. Photoaging.
Technology	1. Makeup removal, skin cleansing. 2. Application of a special ultrasonic peeling product. You will find professional cosmetics for ultrasonic peeling 3. The cosmetologist places the radiator blade at an angle of 45 degrees and treats the skin of the face with it, moving it slowly, smoothly and without pressure. Lasts 10-15 minutes. 4. Mask and cream according to skin type.
Contraindications	Individual intolerance. Pregnancy. Fever. Abrasions and scratches. Inflammatory and allergic skin diseases.
Well	Every day or 2-3 times a week; 10-15 peeling procedures per course.

Laser peeling in a beauty salon

The skin is exposed to a laser beam. The effect of the procedure depends on the type of laser radiation and the depth of its penetration.

Types of laser peeling:

Name	Depth of influence	Mechanism	Effects
Cold peeling	Surface, affects only the stratum corneum of the epidermis.	Layer-by-layer removal of cells of the stratum corneum without heating the underlying structures.	Smooth, matte and velvety skin.
Hot peeling	Surface, affects only the stratum corneum of the epidermis.	Layer-by-layer removal of cells of the stratum corneum with heating of the underlying structures and stimulation of metabolic processes.	Increasing skin elasticity, smoothing fine and medium wrinkles.
Laser resurfacing	Middle and deep affects the epidermis and dermis.	Destruction of the old skin framework under the action of a laser, cell renewal, enhanced synthesis of collagen and elastin fibers.	Rejuvenation, lifting, smoothing of pronounced wrinkles; removal of scars, stretch marks and tattoos.

Contraindications to laser peeling:

Oncology.
Diseases of the heart and blood vessels.
General and local infectious process.
Pregnancy.
Blood clotting disorders.
Fillers at the site of treatment.
Autoimmune diseases and connective tissue diseases.

Peeling procedures help cope with various aesthetic problems.

In order for them to be as effective as possible, it is imperative to take into account the patient’s skin type and follow the technology for performing each technique.

Most aesthetic defects in women's appearance can be corrected by chemical peels for the face, the types of which have their own characteristics. Some acid exfoliation procedures are recommended for solving problems of young skin, such as acne or acne, for others young age is a contraindication. Some peelings with acid solutions help achieve noticeable but painful rejuvenation, others act gently, have a cumulative effect and require frequent repetition. We will talk further about the nuances of acid procedures, their benefits and frequency of use.

A collection of benefits of chemical peels

The mechanism of skin renewal using chemical exfoliation is the same for all types of such peeling. Its basis is the application of natural or synthesized acids in medical (weak) concentration to the skin. Acidic solutions cause artificial chemical burns of thin facial skin of the 1st, rarely 2nd degree.

Every type of chemical peeling, even light ones for decorative purposes, destroys the upper dead layer of the epithelium. Cosmetic compositions for anti-aging exfoliation penetrate even deeper - to the middle dermal layer, and peeling products for radical rejuvenation, whose effect is comparable to surgical lifting, work extremely deeply - at the border of the dermis and subcutaneous tissue. Skin damaged by acid solutions strives for rapid regeneration - peeling provokes a change internal processes in the epidermis. The synthesis of protein threads of collagen and elastin is launched, oxygen and nutrition are supplied to the cells, blood flow accelerates, clogged pores are cleaned and become thinner.

The positive and rapid effect of chemical peels is noticed by everyone who prefers them over mechanical or hardware exfoliation. In 2-3 acid rejuvenation procedures, signs of age disappear from the face (expression wrinkles and folds, rosacea, pigment spots), the consequences of dermatological diseases (inflammation, lumpy skin after acne or acne, redness after infection with the subcutaneous Demadecosis mite), traces of injuries (scars , scars, stretch marks). Physical peelings can also achieve the same aesthetic results. But it will be longer, more expensive and, in the case of some procedures, more painful.

All types of chemical peels create stressful conditions for skin renewal, but in the end their effect is positive and justified. A course of anti-aging procedures helps improve complexion and smooth the skin, get rid of defects and increase the elasticity of the epidermis.

Chemical peels, regardless of type, have several common indications:

problematic skin with increased greasiness, comedones and inflammation;
the appearance of pigment spots as a consequence of photoaging or age-related skin changes;
facial and age wrinkles, tissue sagging, skin sagging, changes in facial contours;
enlarged and clogged pores;
lumpy skin after dermatological diseases;
scars and scars after injuries or thermal burns;
spider veins on the face (rosacea);
preparation for other cosmetic procedures.

All types of chemical facial peeling have several general contraindications:

exacerbation of the herpes virus and chronic diseases;
insulin dependence;
pregnancy and lactation period;
wounds, abrasions, scratches and cracks in the skin on the face;
taking hormonal medications;
individual intolerance to peeling components;
oncology;
adolescence;
recently completed a course of radiotherapy.

Choice in favor certain type Chemical peeling should not be done on its own. The least that arrogance leads to is a violation of the protocol of the procedure and its ineffectiveness. Sometimes inappropriate peeling results in serious complications for the skin and long-term rehabilitation in a clinical setting.

Therefore, before deciding on a course of acid peelings, consult a cosmetologist.

Before a chemical exfoliation session, ask a specialist to perform an allergy test for the active ingredients of the drug. To do this, apply a drop of the product to the inner bend of the elbow or delicate skin behind the ear. If an allergic reaction does not appear within 15 minutes, peeling is suitable.

The type of chemical facial peel depends on the depth of penetration of the acid into the skin. Soft and gentle peelings are classified as superficial, means of combating age-related changes and hyperpigmentation are classified as medium peels, and radical chemical liftings are classified as deep.

Easy peelings: we act on the surface

Superficial peels are popular and can be performed even at home. This gentle and safe exfoliation is recommended as a primary treatment for young, oily skin prone to acne, acne and ultraviolet pigmentation, as well as maintenance care for women over 35 years of age.

The active components of superficial peels penetrate no deeper than 0.06 mm of the epidermal layer, so their action is considered gentle and low-traumatic. This is enough to exfoliate keratinized fiber, smooth out light expression wrinkles and unevenness after acne, narrow and cleanse pores, and lighten pigmentation. Light peelings do not cause significant damage to the skin: the procedures are painless and do not require long rehabilitation - the skin heals within 5-7 days.

Superficial types of peelings do not require special preparation of the skin. To achieve noticeable and lasting effect cleansing should be carried out in courses of 6-8 sessions at intervals of a week. Superficial treatments can be repeated every 3 months from late October to early April.

Superficial chemical peels, the types of which are determined by the main acid in the cosmetic solution, quickly penetrate the skin and stimulate the production of collagen and elastin fibers. Compositions for light exfoliation may contain natural fruit acids, for example, malic, citric, tartaric, or other keratolytics - salicylic, glycolic, lactic, mandelic, pyruvic, retinoic, azelaic, phytic and other types of acids. These compounds are known as alpha hydroxyl acids or AHAs, and they gently break down dead skin and promote skin renewal.

The following are very popular among superficial peels:

glycolic peeling. The exfoliation procedure with glycolic acid is valued by cosmetologists and their clients for its painlessness, effectiveness and minimal risk side effects. The compound molecule is so small that it can penetrate the skin in seconds, causing the synthesis of protein threads and strengthening of intercellular membranes. Glycolic peeling transforms dry skin, moisturizing it and smoothing out the network of fine wrinkles. The skin becomes firm and elastic. Peeling with glycolic acid is a proven prevention of age-related changes and unwanted pigmentation;
milk peeling One of the weakest cleansing procedures recommended for those with sensitive skin. Peeling with lactic acid helps refresh the complexion and even out the first expression lines;
almond peeling with phenoxyglycolic acid obtained from bitter almond grains. A special indication for almond exfoliation is rosacea (the appearance of extensive redness, painful papules and pustules on the skin), accompanied by signs of photoaging, acne and fine wrinkles.

Depending on the sensitivity of the skin and the indications for exfoliation, the superficial peeling procedure lasts from 15 minutes to half an hour. During the session, the woman experiences a slight tingling sensation on her face and a tolerable burning sensation. The next day after peeling, the skin turns red, but within 5 days this reaction disappears.

On the border between superficial and medium peels there are 3 types of exfoliation mixed type: retinoic (yellow) peel, salicylic peel and Jessener peel. They are also well tolerated by the skin, but the components of peeling products penetrate deeper than the hardened epidermis.

retinoic peeling is multicomponent. The composition of preparations for “yellow” exfoliation includes several acids, the main one is a synthetic analogue of vitamin A. Retinol normalizes the production and distribution of melanocytes in the subcutaneous tissue, the accumulation of which provokes pigmentation. Therefore, retinoic peeling is considered an effective means of getting rid of brown spots on the face. The “companions” of retinol in the “yellow” peeling complement the aesthetic transformation: phytic acid slows down cell aging, kojic acid acts as an antioxidant, azelaic acid disinfects and relieves inflammation, and vitamin C brightens the skin and triggers collagen synthesis. As a result, universal retinoic peeling erases many diverse imperfections from a woman’s face;
Salicylic peeling dissolves layers of dead epidermis, exfoliates old cells, and has an antiseptic and antibacterial effect. Salicylic acid molecules easily penetrate deep into the protective skin barrier and suppress internal infections;
Jessner peel. This “youth cocktail” based on salicylic, lactic and retinoic acid is especially appreciated by Hollywood stars for its speed of action and minimal rehabilitation. For superficial exfoliation, the drug is applied to the face in one layer. This is enough to deeply moisturize the skin, improve its microrelief, narrow pores, lighten age spots and visually smooth out light scars.

Gold standard: medium peels

Median exfoliation works at a depth of 0.45 mm of the epidermal layer, i.e. affects the keratinized epithelium and the papillary dermis. Medium type peelings are allowed for women only after 30-35 years. They allow you to lighten serious age-related pigmentation, remove deep folds, thin the skin, fight keratosis and sagging.

Medium chemical peels are called non-surgical lifting: their effect is comparable to hardware lifting of the oval face or reinforcement with gold threads. For the most part, these are uncomfortable procedures that cause pain to women with a high sensitivity threshold. Sometimes such acid exfoliation requires topical anesthesia. Cosmetological manipulations are carried out with more aggressive acids of high concentration, so the healing period of the skin after medium peelings extends to 3-4 weeks.

A medium chemical peel session lasts from 20 minutes to half an hour. During the procedure, the burning sensation may intensify. The next day, the skin of the face becomes red, tight and swollen. Dryness persists for 1-2 weeks. In parallel, peeling and detachment of the injured upper epidermis occurs. At this time, it is important to follow the rules of post-peeling care, use wound healing creams and not remove the scabs. After a month, the skin is renewed and returns to normal.

Cosmetologists recommend performing medium chemical peels in a course of 4-6 procedures with an interval of at least 2 weeks. During skin rehabilitation, it is better to take a vacation and recover at home. Perfect season for medium exfoliation - late autumn or winter: periods of low solar activity. Without damaging the skin, a maximum of 2 courses of serious acid peels are carried out per year.

peeling 35% trichloroacetic acid(TSA) is the “gold standard” of medial exfoliation. This manipulation is performed only in the salon. Carrying out the procedure yourself at home is risky and can result in complications. TCA is an optimal anti-aging peeling that stimulates deep cell renewal and visual rejuvenation for at least 5 years. Preparation for it begins 2 weeks before the first procedure. The skin becomes thinner and loosened with special serums based on glycolic or retinoic acids. Categorical contraindications for TSA are dermatological diseases (for example, vitiligo), the tendency of the skin to form keloid scars and rosacea.

Acid lifting: deep peelings

Deep chemical peeling for the face, the types of which are few and even prohibited for use in some European countries, is compared by experts to plastic surgery. The manipulations are carried out using a non-surgical method, but the components of the peeling products used damage the skin of the face no less than a scalpel.

Deep chemical exfoliation “removes” 0.6 mm of the epidermal layer almost to the beginning of the subcutaneous fatty tissue. The procedure is performed with aggressive phenolic acid and croton oil and, being dangerous, is performed only by cosmetologists with anesthesia in aesthetic medicine clinics.

Phenol, like a laser, destroys the entire epidermis and most of the dermis. The face becomes an open and painful wound, which takes at least six months to heal. Phenol peeling can be performed only once a year and no more than 3 times in a lifetime.

Deep chemical peeling corrects the most complex and long-standing defects of appearance: scars, cicatrices, deep age wrinkles and old age spots. As a result of just one phenol procedure, the skin is rejuvenated, the oval of the face is tightened, and the result of exfoliation lasts for decades.

Choosing the right chemical peel is best left to you professional cosmetologist. The prescription for exfoliation is usually based on the indication, skin type, patient's age and health status, as well as financial capabilities.