How to choose a cream SPF and what protection factor is needed?

What is the difference between physical and chemical SPF-filters and which are more harmful?

The Truth About SPF

So, let's take a look at the most common SPF protection questions.

1. Should you use SPF face cream all year round? Maybe people with a certain skin type?

Cosmetologist commenting on a brand of natural cosmetics mi& ko, Nelly Papikyan:

If the UV index below 4, You may choose not to protect your skin or use sunscreen if you plan to be outside during the sunny part of the day for no longer than 20-30 minutes.

If index below 2, you may not use sunscreen even if you are outside longer.

If the index is from 4 to 6, then you need to use a product with a protection index somewhere around 20-25 if you plan to spend more than 10-15 minutes outside. But if you just ran out of the office to the store across the street, it is not necessary to cover yourself with sun protection and climb into a spacesuit.

If the UV index above 6, be sure to use sunscreen when you leave the house or sit by an open window.

2. In what months is sunscreen exactly necessary and what level of protection should I choose?

from the editors

This should be done from about May to September, and in the southern regions of Russia - from April to October or even from March to November.

The average level of radiation in summer in central Russia is 3-4 UV, and in the south - 5-6 UV. At the same time, the inhabitants of Russia mainly have skin types 2 and 3, so it is necessary to use a cream of 20-25 SPF, and in the south 30-50 SPF.

If during the daytime you are mostly indoors, and the sun is not very strong, you can do without protection, because. exposure to the sun for 10-15 minutes is safe, while a small dose of sun rays is even beneficial, and the skin does not receive excessive sun exposure

comments Teymur Belyaev, Levrana technologist:

For people who want to protect their skin from excessive ultraviolet radiation, in the cities of central Russia, it can be recommended to use light protective creams, in which SPF is often used as an additional effect along with moisturizing, softening, toning, etc. In such creams, the degree of protection does not exceed SPF20, and this is more than enough.

In southern cities, the sun is scorching, on rare days the temperature reaches +40C, and on average it stays at +30C. This is a reason to strive to protect their skin even for those who do not have problems with skin sensitivity, because often we ourselves do not notice how the skin is burned, and meanwhile there is an active process of absorbing ultraviolet radiation. For residents of such cities, already specialized sunscreens with an SPF level of at least 30 or even 50 are recommended.

Commented by Nelly Papikyan, brand mi& ko

The choice of sunscreen also depends on the skin phototype.

1 phototype (Celtic)- very light skin and hair, often with a red tint. Freckles on the skin. The eyes are blue or green.
Recommended funds with an SPF factor of at least 30 at the end of the summer season and from 40 to 50 at the beginning. Safe time in the sun for representatives of this phototype is no more than 5 minutes. That is, theoretically, a sunscreen with an SPF factor of 50, if properly applied, protects the skin for 250 minutes (5 x 50), and with an SPF factor of 8 - 40 minutes. But do not forget that any, even the most effective sunscreen protects not 100 percent.

2 phototype (Nordic and Scandinavian ) - fair skin, light brown hair, brown or blue eyes.
At the beginning of summer, you should use products with an SPF factor of 30-35, by the end of summer they can be replaced with products with an SPF factor of 15. The safe maximum time in the sun is 15 minutes.

3 phototype (European) - the most common in the middle lane. Fair skin, blond or brown hair, dark eyes.
Representatives of this phototype can use protective equipment with an SPF factor of 8 to 15 from the beginning to the end of the summer season. The safe maximum time in the sun is 20 minutes.

4 phototype (Mediterranean)- dark skin, dark hair and dark eyes.
Representatives of this phototype may not be afraid for the condition of their skin on the beach, even with a cream with an SPF factor of 8. Safe time in the sun is 30 minutes.
All creams with SPF above 50 are a marketing ploy. In creams marked SPF 100, 70, 80, as a rule, they put more thickeners, zinc, due to which they lie on the skin in a denser layer, while the degree of protection increases by a maximum of 2 percent.

3. How and what kind of cream to use on the beach?

from the editors

On the beach, you need much stronger protection - from 30 to 50 SPF, while the cream must be regularly updated.

You need to know that most creams - creams with chemical filters - begin to work only 20 minutes after exposure to the sun! At the same time, bathing and wiping with a towel breaks the protective layer, so the cream must be applied again.

It is also interesting that, according to technologists, SPF levels above 50 are more likely a marketing ploy and unattainable.

4. Tell us about physical and chemical filters. What are physical and how are they obtained? What are the disadvantages of funds with them? Which chemical filters are the safest?

from the editors

There are 2 types of filters - physical and chemical. Physical ones are titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, they are used mainly in natural cosmetics. Their peculiarity is that when applied, they whiten the skin. Let's talk briefly about each type:

Physical filters reflect the sun's rays. They are metal salts crushed into dust. The disadvantage is that they can penetrate into the pores, clog them, cause allergies. Due to the content of nanoparticles, they are prohibited for use by the Soil Association and are actively discussed by European eco-certificates!

Chemical filters come into contact with the sun's rays, forming new compounds and turning the sun's radiation into infrared and safe. Less predictable in their degree of danger than physical filters, because some chemical filters can even be toxic and accumulate in the body.

comments Innovation Director, developer of cosmetics of the Cleon brand, Ph.D. Igor Ivanov:

Physical filters are mineral substances that protect our skin from solar radiation in the same way as an ordinary umbrella, i.e. absorb, reflect, scatter UV rays, but do not let them through to the skin. The most famous of them are zinc and titanium oxides. To make the reflectivity of these substances

maximum, they are ground to very small particles. For what? Imagine that there is a wooden block the size of a matchbox. Putting it on a standard sheet of paper, you can create a shadow the size of this box. If you cut the bar into two layers, they can shade twice the area. If the bar is cut into many layers, they can shade the entire sheet of paper. The same principle is used in the manufacture of mineral filters. Maximum coverage is achieved with a minimum particle size, ideally nano-sized.

But today it is believed that mineral nanoparticles are not safe for humans. Therefore, the same British non-governmental organization Soil Association (SA), specializing in the certification of organic products, announced that products with nanoparticles will no longer be able to receive the SA certificate. First of all, this applies to sunscreens.

Brand training manager comments Weleda Maria Kondratieva:

At Weleda, we only use physical filters in our products for a number of reasons. The first is that physical filters behave more stable in the sun and in cosmetics. The second is that products with chemical filters require discipline from the consumer and

special care. So such funds are recommended to be applied half an hour before going to the beach or in the active sun. Physical filters begin to protect immediately after application, it is convenient to renew them during use.

Nelly Papikyan, mi& ko:

Not all chemical filters are harmful to the body. To date the safest and most effective among chemical filters are considered:

1) Tinosorb S (Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine) is the best chemical filter available today. photostable; protects against UVB, UVA1, UVA2; waterproof

2) Tinosorb M (Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol) - protects against UVB, UVA1, UVA2; less photostable; poorly soluble in water and fats

3) Mexoryl XL (Drometrizole trisiloxane) - Protects against UVA2; photostable; fat soluble; contained only in the funds of the L "Oreal concern

4) Mexoryl SX (Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid) - Protects against UVA1, UVA2; photostable; water soluble; contained only in the funds of the L "Oreal concern.

5. And what are the most harmful SPF ingredients? What ingredients in SPF products should definitely be avoided and why?

from the editors

Most of the major European manufacturers, as a rule, do not use the most harmful filters.

Try not to buy the cheapest sunscreens. they use the cheapest cosmetic ingredients, which, at a minimum, are useless for the skin, and at the most, harmful.

Teymur Belyaev, Levrana:

If the particle size of the physical filter is too small (nanoparticles), then they are completely capable of penetrating from the surface into the body, slagging it. That's why it's so important to know and trust the manufacturer of your sunscreen. (By the way, the COSMOS-Ecocert standard prohibits the use of nanoparticles, so we use micronized zinc oxide, but not nano).

Among the variety of chemical filters, there are a considerable number of truly harmful ones, since in addition to the useful properties

photoprotection, they adversely affect the skin itself, poisoning the body, or being an allergen, not to mention the carcinogenicity of some of them. Some of these substances are: escalol, octinoxate, oxybenzone, enzacamine, cinoxate.

Igor Ivanov, "Cleon":

Now the mass trend dominates that physical filters are healthy. ABOUT rovo, and chemical - bad. It's a delusion. And that's why.

Did you know that there are self-cleaning glasses, the dirt on which is literally burned out by sunlight? All this is achieved due to the thinnest layer of titanium oxide deposited on the glass. Under the influence of ultraviolet light, the inert and safe titanium oxide becomes photoactive and, together with atmospheric oxygen, begins to destroy any organic substances that come into contact with it. The efficiency of these processes is so great that photocatalytic technologies for cleaning surfaces and air based on titanium oxide will soon become a new industry.

Now imagine what happens on the skin, richly lubricated with titanium oxide nanoparticles, thickly mixed with vegetable oils and / or other easily oxidized substances, when this whole mixture is irradiated with ultraviolet light for hours and blown by a fresh warm breeze.

With chemical filters, things are more complicated. Dozens of them are used in cosmetics. And it is true that some of them are dangerous to humans. But this applies to first-generation sunscreens. Current chemical filters are much safer. But there is a fairly large category of people who still avoid them, indiscriminately.

If we talk about what is the most harmful thing in sunscreen cosmetics, I would say: human behavior. When he chooses cheap sunscreens containing dangerous filters. When she puts on creams with a clearly higher SPF than she needs. When he shifts all responsibility to the cream and lies in the sun for hours at a time when all doctors recommend being in the shade.

Summer... Each of us loves to soak up the rays of the gentle sun, lie down on the beach, getting a beautiful, even tan. And just walking the streets in clear weather during the hot season (or even all year round, if it happens somewhere in Australia or Southeast Asia), we find ourselves at risk. Why? Because in addition to sunburn, they can cause significant harm to our skin. The result of their excessive exposure is the dryness of the skin, especially the face, arms, shoulders - that is, those places that are not hidden under clothing in hot weather; the appearance of freckles and age spots; and in severe cases, the sun's rays can cause one of the most difficult forms of cancer to treat, melanoma. How to protect yourself and your child? Use a product with SPF. What it is, how to choose it correctly depending on your skin type, and which brands you should trust, we will tell in our article. By the way, the sun is quite active in winter, so protection should be used on clear winter days, applying it to the face under makeup.

All about SPF: what it is, its levels and determining which indicator you need

So, SPF (Sun Protection Factor) is a special substance, the main purpose of which is to absorb and neutralize the effects of sunlight. The level of this factor is usually indicated on the packaging of the product and can range from 5 to 100-120 (the scale is from weak to strong). Manufacturers produce sunscreen products in the form of lotions, sprays, wipes. You may also come across a cream with SPF for lips. Usually the SPF level of a product is indicated on the packaging. But which factor indicator should you choose? There is a simple rule: you need to determine how long it takes for your skin to turn red under the scorching sun - usually this period is 10-15 minutes (although dark-skinned women can blush in half an hour, while 2-5 minutes is enough for natural blondes of the "Scandinavian" type ). So, the specified interval, let it be a quarter of an hour, you need to multiply by the SPF indicator indicated on your product, for example SPF 20. 15 x 20 \u003d 300 minutes, that is, you can safely spend 5 hours in the sun. It's that simple.

SPF: choose depending on the skin phototype

So, if you have just started sunbathing, for example, in the first few days at the resort, dermatologists recommend purchasing products with an SPF that is slightly higher than you need. If you are the owner of light skin and hair, you will need SPF 50. But in the beginning, in the very first days, it would still be better to use a product with an indicator of 70. If you moderately choose products with SPF 15-20. For children, especially the youngest, whose skin does not yet produce sufficient amounts of the protective pigment melanin, use creams or lotions with SPF 80-100.

Funds with SPF: application rules

Keep in mind that creams and lotions should be applied 15-20 minutes before sun exposure to allow them to absorb into the skin. When spreading, pay special attention to the face, shoulders, hands. Also, don't forget about your back. Lips also need protection - you can apply a special hygienic lipstick with a protective factor. Although many manufacturers claim that their products are resistant to water, it’s still not worth the risk: if after applying the product with SPF you swam in the sea or pool, don’t be lazy and use the lotion again. It is better to spend a few minutes on this than to suffer after a few days

Popular Brands with SPF

We have already found out what it is: products with a protective factor are presented in the form of all kinds of creams, lotions and sprays. The most popular manufacturers whose products have an excellent price-quality ratio are Garnier, Nivea, Sunshine and Red Line. These are inexpensive, democratic brands. Keep in mind that your hair also needs protection, so on the beach it is better to hide it under a cap or scarf or use special sprays. So, now you have the basic information about the SPF factor: what it is, how to calculate it correctly and which tool to choose. Now your holiday will not be overshadowed by sunburn, and your skin will get an even, intense, but at the same time healthy tan.

On all sunscreens, you can see the abbreviation SPF followed by a number. To choose the right sunscreen, you need to know what SPF is. SPF is a sun protection factor. The number that usually follows the SPF indicates the intensity of the sunscreen's protective function. The higher the number, the more intensely the product protects the skin from exposure to sunlight. The value of the SPF factor ranges from 2 to 50.

How to choose the right SPF - factor

In order to choose the right sunscreen for yourself and correctly determine the SPF value that is right for you, you need to know what phototype you are.

Among our population, there are four phototypes of appearance.

4 appearance phototypes

You belong to the first phototype of your appearance, if your skin and hair are very light, there are freckles on your skin. The hair may have a red tint, the color of the eyes is blue or green.

If you belong to phototype 1, then remember that your skin is not inclined to a deep tan, your skin can easily get sunburned, so you need to use sunscreens with a high SPF - factor: SPF from 40 to 50, especially at the beginning of summer season, in the future you can switch to a sunscreen with an SPF value of 30, but not lower.

You belong to this phototype, having fair skin, brown or blue eyes, light blond hair. The second phototype of appearance differs little from the first, so people who belong to it also easily get sunburn if they are in the sun for a long time without using sunscreen. But their skin can still be slowly accustomed to being in the sun.

If you consider yourself to be of the second phototype, then in the first stages of getting a tan, use products with a high SPF value - factor: SPF from 30 to 35. Then you can gradually lower the level of sun protection even to a value of 15. You yourself will feel to what SPF value - factor can go down.

This phototype of appearance is the most common among the inhabitants of our strip. You may have fair skin, but if your hair is light brown or brown and your eyes are dark, then a tan is for you. You can get a bronze skin tone very easily without you knowing what redness is. But you still need sunscreens because they protect the skin not only from redness, but also from the harmful effects of the sun on the skin, as discussed in the previous article. It will be enough for you to purchase a product with an SPF value - a factor: SPF from 8 to 15, even in the early stages of getting a tan.

This phototype of appearance includes people with dark skin, dark hair and dark eye color. If you have these characteristics of appearance and do not know at all what freckles are, then you belong to the 4th phototype.

You are not afraid of a burn from sun exposure, you also do not suffer from reddening of the skin, but, again, I repeat that sun exposure to the skin is not just getting a bronze tint, but also ultraviolet exposure, which ages our skin, and it should be protected from this .

You just need to purchase a sunscreen with an SPF value of up to 8.

Now you know what SPF is and how to choose the right SPF when buying sunscreen.

• What is SPF factor
• Cream with SPF for every day
• Overview of funds

What is SPF factor

Face cream with SPF protection is a cosmetic product that we must use on a daily basis, so approach its choice with all seriousness. Today, the range of sunscreens is quite wide and meets a variety of requirements.

SPF (English Sun Protection Factor, in translation - “sun protection factor”) is an index that determines the level of protection from the sun, namely ultraviolet B rays (UVB). And the number next to the abbreviation tells how much UV will hit the skin when using the product:

at SPF 10, the skin will receive 1/10 of the total radiation, that is, the filter will block about 90% of UVB rays;

SPF 15 will cut off 93% of the rays;

the highest possible protection level of 50+ neutralizes 98-99% of UVB radiation.

Choose a face cream with SPF according to your phototype.

The sun protection factor SPF applies only to UVB rays that cause burns, but not to UVA - the culprits of early aging and pathological changes in skin cells.

Recently, a separate label has been introduced to inform consumers about the degree of protection against UVA radiation: in accordance with the recommendation of the European Commission, the UVA symbol in a circle is applied to the packaging of sunscreens. This means that the formula provides at least a minimum level of UVA protection (minimum 1/3 of UVB protection), which increases with the SPF value.

How to choose a really good cream

A sunscreen will keep your skin safe when you select it based on several criteria, including filter type and your own phototype.

Filter types

There are two types of filters that differ from each other by the principle of operation.

1. 1

   Physical, or mineral (titanium dioxide and zinc oxide) reflect the sun's rays on the principle of a mirror.

   They are part of creams from sun protection lines and fluid screens with high SPF, which are applied over a moisturizer and create a protective film on the skin. In everyday SPF creams, they are used infrequently: the mineral particles are too large, overload the formula, make the texture heavier and give the face a characteristic whitish tint.

2. 2

   Chemical (there are more than 20 compounds, including parsol 1789, avobenzone, oxybenzone) do not repel, but absorb and neutralize UV ​​rays.

   Unlike physical ones, they are destroyed within two hours of continuous insolation. Therefore, reapplying every two hours in direct sunlight is strictly necessary.

Face cream with SPF is useful both on vacation and on working days.

Determine your phototype

This criterion indicates the degree of sensitivity of the skin to ultraviolet radiation. Sensitivity is determined by the amount of protective pigment - melanin, which is produced in the sun in the lower layers of the epidermis. The classification was made by Dr. Thomas Fitzpatrick in 1975, dividing humanity into 6 groups according to the totality of external signs.

1. 1

   I Celtic type. Signs: milky white or pink skin, which is called porcelain for an even tone. Red hair, light eyes, a scattering of freckles on the face and body. Burn instantly, do not sunbathe at all.

2. 2

   II European (Scandinavian, Nordic). Representatives of this phototype resemble the previous one in appearance: light skin and eyes, blond hair. They quickly burn, sunbathe badly, but when tanned, the skin acquires not a red, but a golden hue.

3. 3

   III Central European (mixed). Ivory skin. Hair - dark blond, chestnut. Eyes - brown or light. There are no freckles or they become visible only in the season of active sun. They sunbathe well, although they can burn.

4. 4

   IV Mediterranean type, or South European. Typical inhabitants of Spain, Italy, Greece. They are easily recognizable by their dark olive skin. Eyes and hair are dark. They tan quickly, without burns.

5. 5

   V Asian (Eastern). These people are distinguished by swarthy skin, dark hair and eyes. They sunbathe perfectly, getting burned for them is almost impossible.

6. 6

   VI African type. Very dark skin, hair and eyes. They don't burn.

The most vulnerable to ultraviolet light are I-III phototypes. Dermatologists advise such people to take a responsible approach to the choice of sunscreen.

What SPF do you need

The choice of sunscreen depends on the circumstances of your life: location, time of year and day.

The lighter the skin, the lower its own defense mechanism, which means the higher the likelihood of a burn. The first three phototypes - white-skinned, and therefore practically defenseless - require the highest possible SPF 50+. Representatives of phototypes from the fourth to the sixth - SFP 20 and 30.

Regardless of skin type, it is recommended to reapply sunscreen every 2 hours. In the summer in the southern countries, the sun is merciless, and people are characterized by indiscretion, forgetfulness and just laziness: a little gape, carelessly smeared - and did not notice how burned. In addition, no sunscreen is 100% safe, so it's important to be mindful of the rules of sun exposure.

In places of increased UV activity (sea, mountains, hot countries), choose a cream with SPF 30-50. Below are more specific recommendations.

In addition to sunscreens, the cream contains antioxidants.

Cream with SPF for every day

If everything is more or less clear with the sun and the beach, then the need for UV protection in urban environments is questionable. Is it necessary at all, especially in winter? The answer to this question depends on the UV index at that particular time. Look into the weather app on your smartphone and act according to the circumstances.

UV-index below 2 - you can do without SPF.

The UV index is below 4 and you do not plan to stay outside for more than 30 minutes - you can not defend yourself.

UV index 4-6 - use a cream with SPF 20.

UV-index above 6 - solar protection with a factor of 25-30 is required.

Cosmetics developers and manufacturers do not always include SPF in their daily face cream, preferring not to overload the formula aimed at solving specific cosmetic tasks: moisturizing, nourishing, fighting wrinkles. But in the solar lines every year there are a variety of products with innovative textures and additional effects, addressed to different skin types.

The higher the UV index, the stronger the photoprotection should be.

Overview of funds

Once you're shopping for the right sunscreen, think about where you're going to use it the most. If you thought that buying a protective cream is only for the holidays, you are mistaken. For daily use in the city, this tool is no less important.

Protection in the city

Sunscreens for the city will have at least three fundamental differences.

Toning care 3 in 1 against age spots Ideal Soleil SPF 50+, Vichy

Evens out complexion, reduces the size of age spots, gives radiance. Non-greasy.

Refreshing milk "Protection and hydration" SPF 15, LOréal Paris

Contains moisturizing aloe vera juice and natural green tea extract, rich in antioxidants and tannins.

Mattifying cream against imperfections Ideal Soleil SPF 30, Vichy

Prevents acne and corrects the imperfections of oily, problematic skin. Contains acids.

Ultralight facial fluid Anthelios XL SPF 50+, La Roche-Posay

All-in-one weightless protection with natural antioxidants for hypersensitive skin.

Beach protection

Everything is strict with beach formulas: water resistance (an indispensable condition) plus a filter of at least “thirty”.

Sunscreens for the face, suitable for going to the beach.

1. Sunscreen with a high degree of protection and moisturizing Ultra Facial Defense SPF 50, SkinCeuticals

Provides not only powerful protection, but also maintains the level of moisture in the skin. Contains shea butter.

2. 2

   Extra Protection Face Cream SPF 50+, L "Oréal Paris

   Provides multi-protection of cells, effective for the prevention of wrinkles and pigmentation.

Cream for face and body "Expert Protection" SPF 50, Garnier

Waterproof, hypoallergenic, absorbs quickly, protects against UVB and UVA rays.

3. 4

   Multicorrective anti-aging cream SPF 30, Kiehl's

   Improves the appearance of the skin and corrects the signs of aging: increases elasticity, adds radiance

4. 5

   Mattifying Gel Cream Anthelios XL SPF 50+, La Roche-Posay

   Addressed to oily and problematic skin. Contains airy microparticles that absorb sebum.

Today, everyone already knows how important sunscreen is for the body. Without proper protection, we are subject to the damaging effects of the sun - burns, rashes, irritations, and later also wrinkles, freckles and even melanoma. However, many people do not use sunscreen to the extent necessary (that is, every day). Part of the reason for this is the overcrowded market for sunscreen products.

What is SPF and how is UVA different from UVB?

SPF protects your skin from UVB healing that causes sunburn. But it does not protect against UVA radiation, which causes deeper damage to the skin and accelerates the aging process. UVA radiation is the cause of wrinkles, brown spots, rough skin, hyperpigmentation, and more.

"Broad Spectrum" is a characteristic of products that protect against UVA and UVB radiation. In the past, sunscreens only blocked UVB, but now we know that UVA is also very damaging to the skin. Always choose a product labeled “broad spectrum” to protect your skin from both types of radiation.

How to figure out how long the effect of SPF lasts, and what numbers do I need?

By itself, the SPF value already indicates the duration of action. For example, with an SPF 30 product, you can stay in the sun 30 times longer than without protection. For example, if without a cream you would “burn out” in 10 minutes, then SPF 30 protection increases this period of time by 30 times - that is, you can be in the sun for 300 minutes.

Does the SPF value indicate the effectiveness of the product? (e.g. SPF 100)

Surprisingly, a higher SPF doesn't mean you'll get better protection. In fact, the difference in UV protection between SPF 30, 50 and 100 is minimal.

The degree of protection of SPF 30, 50, 70 and 100 products increases gradually. SPF 30 blocks about 97% of UVB radiation, and all products with higher values ​​​​have only 1 or 2% more protection. No product provides 100% UV protection.

Reapplication

It is very important not to forget to apply the cream in the morning. But the sun sets only in the evening, and one application of the cream for the whole day is not enough. If you are in the sun, reapply sunscreen every 2 hours. Use the rule: 30 ml (ping-pong ball) is the optimal amount of sunscreen for one application.

How to choose the best tool

Look for a cream with broad spectrum UVA and UVB protection and an SPF of 15 to 30, preferably without oxybenzone. If you have a family history of skin cancer or if you have very fair and sensitive skin, choose a product with SPF 30 or higher.

Choose a product that contains at least one of the following: ecamsule, avobenzone, benzophenone (aka oxybenzone), titanium dioxide, sulisobenzone, or zinc dioxide. Any of these components will provide protection.