The benefits of retinol for facial skin. Recipes for homemade masks and a review of pharmaceutical preparations. Retinol acetate (vitamin A) for facial skin: recipes for use

Retinol, or true vitamin A, is a substance that is actively used in cosmetology. It is added to creams, masks, serums and other products.

For example, it can be found among product ingredients Nivea, BIOMATRIX, Klapp, BeautyMed. What is the benefit of retinol for facial skin, how to use it and what is the difference between acetate and palmitate?

Vitamin A is found in animals and in vegetables and fruits. It is a fat-soluble substance, so there is no aqueous solution. The drug is sold as a liquid oil solution.

Initially, retinol in dermatology and cosmetology was used to treat acne, and quite successfully. During observations, it was discovered that it has a beneficial effect on problem skin - it relieves rashes and inflammation, reduces pathogenic microflora that inhabit the dermis.

Later others appeared beneficial features vitamin A:

reducing the depth of wrinkles;
activation of the production of collagen and elastin, which form the skin framework, thereby achieving tightening;
reduction in the thickness of the stratum corneum, the skin becomes smooth and velvety;
deep penetration into the dermis due to its small molecular weight and restoration of metabolic processes;
smoothing skin texture, eliminating scars;
improvement of complexion, fight against pigmentation, post-acne;
narrowing of pores;
strengthening local immunity;
creating a healthy glow effect.

Who benefits from vitamin A?

Retinol can be used for many dermatological problems. Thus, during withering and aging, it will restore lost turgor and elasticity of the tissue, produce a lifting effect, and saturate it with useful substances. At normal skin the drug will moisturize and nourish the epidermis, rejuvenate. It is still relevant to use for youth problems - high fat content, acne, hypersecretion of the sebaceous glands. The vitamin is also indicated externally for the following dermatological ailments:

eczema;
cheilitis, “jams” in the corners of the mouth;
dermatitis;
cracks, abrasions on the epidermis;
disruption of the keratinization process;
after treatment with glucocorticoids to activate recovery phenomena.

How to use?

Vitamin A is used at home in different ways. The easiest way is to enrich the cosmetic product with 1-2 drops of a liquid solution. For example, such a cream for the skin around the eyes will smooth out wrinkles, moisturize and brighten.

The vitamin is included in recipes for various masks. Thanks to the additional components in such formulations medicine has a less aggressive effect on the skin, reducing the likelihood of allergic reactions. IN pure form It is not recommended to apply vitamin A to large areas - only spot-on.

Before using the product, you should conduct a skin test to make sure that the drug will not cause an allergic reaction.

Treatment with vitamin A is carried out in courses, each lasting no more than two months. Then they take the same break.

Adverse reactions and contraindications

After application to the skin, sometimes a burning or tingling sensation occurs, which passes quite quickly; dryness may appear after the procedure. The reason for this is the dehydrating effect of retinol. Therefore, after washing off the mask, it is recommended to apply a moisturizer.

Another side effect- increased skin sensitivity to ultraviolet radiation and the risk of allergic reactions. Because of this, preparations with vitamin A are best taken before bedtime, courses should be carried out in the autumn-winter period.

When used externally, itching and hyperemia may occur at the site of application. This requires a temporary discontinuation of the course.

Contraindication: individual hypersensitivity to the substance. You should not overuse the vitamin due to the risk of retinoid dermatitis. This is especially true for people with sensitive skin. It is not recommended to use the vitamin in its pure form to treat dryness and wrinkles.

You also need to remember that vitamin A loses its beneficial properties when heated, so the products to which the solution is added must be at room temperature.

Vitamin E, C, group B enhance the effect of the drug. But it is not recommended to combine it with fruit acids.

During pregnancy, retinol should not be used on large areas, because there is a risk of harming the unborn child.

Face mask recipes

There are many skin masks you can prepare at home. different types with the participation of vitamin A, which helps eliminate many deficiencies.

Attention! Masks are made 2 times a week for a course of 10-15 procedures. Then there is a break of 2-3 months.

Lifting effect

This recipe for a super anti-aging mask is suitable for the face, neck, and décolleté.

Required:

vitamin A - 10 drops;
oatmeal, orange juice - 1 tbsp. l.;
protein chicken egg- 1 PC.

Grind the flakes in a coffee grinder, add protein and leave for a few minutes to allow the oatmeal to swell. Then fresh orange juice is poured in, mixed, and retinol is added. The mixture is brought to a homogeneous state, applied to the face, kept for 10 minutes, and washed.

This recipe is intended for normal to oily aging skin. For dry, it is recommended to replace the juice with orange zest and the white with yolk.

The product is washed off with massage movements and a nourishing cream is applied.

Fighting acne

To prepare this mask you will need:

retinol in oil - 1 capsule;
cosmetic clay (white, black or green) - 1 tbsp. l.
mineral water.

The clay is diluted with water to obtain a paste-like mass, and the contents of the capsule are added there. Keep the mask for 25-30 minutes, rinse off, and apply moisturizer.

Skin nutrition

To prepare a nutritious “cocktail”, take:

homemade cottage cheese - 1 tbsp. l.;
sour cream - 1 tbsp. l.;
retinol - 1 capsule.

All components are mixed, left on the face for 20 minutes, and washed.

Attention! It is better to use homemade sour cream and cottage cheese, as they contain maximum nutrients.

Hydration

If your skin lacks moisture, you can try this recipe:

yellow clay - 30 g;
chamomile infusion - 100 ml;
honey - 30 g;
vitamin A - 10 drops.

The clay is diluted with chamomile infusion until a homogeneous paste is obtained, honey and retinol are added. Application time - 15 minutes. Then wash with warm water and cover the face with a suitable cream.

Rejuvenation

This simple recipe will help rejuvenate your skin. To prepare such a mask you only need two ingredients - 15 ml olive oil and the contents of one vitamin A capsule. The products are mixed and applied to the face, neck, décolleté for 15 minutes, then remove the remains. paper napkin, do not wash.

Attention! For home cosmetics take Extra virgin olive oil. This type of vegetable oil is obtained by pressing olives, without the use of chemical and biochemical additives.

Retinol release forms

The drug is available in several forms. Both pharmacy and cosmetic brands are involved in the production.

Acetate or palmitate?

Previously, retinol acetate was used only in veterinary medicine, and retinol palmitate was used in healthcare. Since the first form is cheaper to extract than the second, over time it became the main one.

However, there are differences in the mechanism of absorption. Thus, retinol palmitate is a natural compound for humans, and in this form it is absorbed faster and better. In order for the body to accept retinol acetate, the substance must undergo a series of transformations and be converted into acetate. For this reason, it is preferable to use retinol palmitate.

Retinol oil solution

The drug is available in a glass bottle of 10 ml. For skin lesions, the product is prescribed externally - the affected areas are treated and a gauze bandage is applied. Frequency of use: up to 6 times a day.

Retinol is also available in capsule form and is intended for internal use. However, it is also suitable for cosmetic purposes. To use the product, just pierce the capsule with a needle and squeeze out its contents.

Retinoic ointment

The drug was undeservedly forgotten for some time, but now it is again presented in the pharmacy chain. The ointment is based on isotretinoin, a biologically active form of vitamin A. The product has a keratolytic, anti-inflammatory, and antiseborrheic effect.

The product reduces sebum production, improves its composition and facilitates easier removal. This normalizes the activity of the sebaceous glands and eliminates inflammation. Retinoic ointment is used for the following skin diseases:

acne vulgaris;
perioral dermatitis;
rosacea;
seborrheic dermatitis.

The drug is applied to the affected areas 2 times a day, used for a course of 4 to 12 weeks.

Cosmetic products

The ampoule form of the vitamin is produced by many manufacturers of cosmetics, including medicinal ones.

Biomatrix- represents retinol enclosed in plant microspheres. This form allows the drug to quickly penetrate into the dermis.
Klapp – Vitamin A plus Retinol considered one of the best skin care products aging skin. The composition contains panthenol, which stimulates collagen formation and tissue regeneration.
Ampoules with propolis and vitamin A- intended for care problem skin. The product contains irgazan and propolis. Both ingredients have antimicrobial effects.

Retinol is an excellent cosmetic product for all skin types. However, it is not always enough to use it only externally. The effectiveness of treatment will increase if vitamin A is taken orally. As is known, dermatological diseases - result malfunction internal organs and systems. But you can’t self-medicate - you need to get a doctor’s permission.

In contact with

Retinol acetate for facial skin, also known as vitamin A, is an excellent product for caring for your own appearance, allowing you to maintain freshness and youth for a long time.

If you intend to use retinol for facial skin, then it is worth remembering that it is recommended to buy it only in trusted retail outlets, and best of all in pharmacies, where it is presented in the form:

in the form of a solution - in this case, you should choose an oil solution of retinol acetate for the face. It can be of different percentages, in particular, 3.44% and 8.6% and is ideal for home care;
capsules containing an oil solution. Just pierce the ampoule and then add vitamin A to a mask, cream or apply externally. This is essentially the most convenient way to use retinol;
retinol in ampoules. It is used for intramuscular injections, but can also be used as an additive to homemade masks, creams, and so on;

Initially, vitamin A, also known as retinol acetate, was used to improve vision, but it is no less effective for improving the condition of the skin.

Retinol for facial skin has the following positive effects:

Serves as a powerful antioxidant, which allows you to increase the skin’s ability to resist external negative factors, protecting it from ultraviolet radiation, eliminating itching and redness, inflammation, cleansing it of impurities and toxins;
Retinol for facial skin at home, used in the form of masks or in creams, can improve blood flow, thereby providing nutrition in the deepest layers of the epidermis;
Retinol helps strengthen the walls of blood vessels, which prevents the development vascular network;
It effectively fights the first signs of skin aging, eliminating a fine network of wrinkles, brightening skin tone and lightening pigmentation on the face, removing dryness and flaking;
Cleansing and peeling using retinol can cleanse the skin of blackheads, pimples, inflammation and pustules, renewing the upper layers of the epithelium;

But before using retinol acetate on your face, do a preliminary test to check for allergies to this vitamin, applying it to the bend of the elbow.

Precautions and contraindications for use

Despite the fact that vitamin A is very, very beneficial for the body, retinol for facial skin still has contraindications.

In particular, it should not be used for open injuries and wounds that have purulent content, as well as for skin diseases and in case of diagnosing an allergic reaction to this vitamin.

It should be used with great caution by pregnant and lactating women - its excess can lead to disturbances in the development of the fetus, as well as through breast milk cause allergies in the newborn.

Retinol also has a strong draining effect on internal organs: liver and bile ducts. Therefore, it is contraindicated in diagnosing diseases of these organs.

It should not be used excessively, as an overdose can cause nausea and vomiting, loss of appetite and headache, increase in liver size.

Regarding finished cosmetic preparations that contain retinol, you can find a lot of products on the world market today: creams, gels and serums.

But which retinol product should you choose? The most famous, popular and effective ones are presented at your discretion.

Retinol Fusion PM

Night serum containing concentrated, pure retinol, which allows you to eliminate a fine network of wrinkles, vascular networks, and stars. Indicated for all skin types.

Korf Lifting

Gel Regetsin

A powerful tool with effective composition vitamins prescribed for the diagnosis of seborrhea and psoriasis, chronic problems with the dermis, allowing to relieve pain and itching, redness.

Cream Retin – A

This product is used only as prescribed by a cosmetologist, since it has a powerful peeling effect and should be used carefully. It is able to restore the skin, removes, lightens pigmentation and the first wrinkles.

Cream from Belita-Vitex “Retinol + magnesium”

Cream from Belarusian manufacturers is a worthy replacement for high-quality imported expensive cosmetics. It contains not only vitamin A, but also magnesium, which intensively nourishes and restores tissue.

Masks with retinol for facial skin at home are a worthy replacement for expensive creams and ready-made mask compositions, which can restore elasticity, youth and freshness. The following mask recipes are presented at your discretion.

Anti-inflammatory mask

For cooking homemade mask for the face with retinol and agave juice, you should take 1 tbsp. l. regular cream, preferably for children, add 1 tsp. aloe juice and 10 drops. liquid retinol.

All components are mixed and applied to the face for 15 minutes, then simply rinse the face with warm water.

Composition for dry skin

To prepare, take 1 tbsp. l. vegetable oils - olive, jojoba or wheat germ, add 1 capsule of retinol to it.

The oil solution is applied to the face and left without rinsing, after some time simply wiping off the residue from the skin.

Oil rejuvenating mixture

Retinol acetate in facial oil will perfectly rejuvenate it - just mix 1 tsp. burdock oil, sweet almond seeds and honey, then add retinol in the same amount, mix everything thoroughly and apply to the skin. After half an hour, simply rinse your face with warm water.

Retinol acetate for facial skin against acne

This is also an excellent remedy. In this case, to prepare a mask, take an oil solution of retinol and cosmetic clay, any that is at hand. Clay is diluted with mineral water in equal proportions and add 1 capsule of retinol to the resulting mixture - apply for 20-25 minutes.

You can also replace the clay with lemon juice - in this case, the pimples will dry out, the skin will lighten, and pigmentation will go away.

It is enough to mix all the components in equal parts and apply to the face, leaving for 40 minutes.

Mask for problem skin

If the skin is prone to excessive oiliness and shine, a mask made from a mixture of retinol and any dairy product. Simply mix an oil solution of vitamin A and serum or kefir and, after soaking a napkin in the composition, apply it to your face for half an hour, then rinse your face with warm water.

If the skin is dry and flaky, mix an oil solution of vitamin A and liquid glycerin in equal proportions, then apply the mixture to the face. You don’t have to wash it off, especially if you plan to go outside in the cold - this will serve as excellent protection from the cold and bad weather.

Created 03/10/2016

There are many great "hero" skin care ingredients out there, but retinol stands out as one of the best.

Retinol is a fat-soluble vitamin A discovered in 1913. It became the first vitamin to be discovered and therefore received the name of the first letter of the alphabet.

In the body, retinol is synthesized from beta-carotene (provitamin A), and natural sources include animal and plant products. The biologically active form is not retinol itself, but its derivative, trans-RK (tretinoin).

Retinol is included in various vitamin complexes and medicinal drugs. Now it is added to cosmetics. But, unlike medicines, cosmetics are mainly used long time and without medical supervision. Therefore, doubts arose whether it was worth including such an overly active component in products for daily care. After many years of research and clinical trials, compounds (natural and synthetic) were discovered that exhibit effects similar to retinol. These compounds are retinoids. The molecules of many synthetic retinoids differ significantly from the structure of natural vitamin A, but they act in a similar way.

Retinol, entering one cell, stimulates the production of biologically active substances in it, which are released into the intercellular space and, in turn, act on other cells.

Effect of retinoids on the skin:

light exfoliation
skin lightening
increasing skin firmness and elasticity
wrinkle smoothing
reduction of inflammation
acceleration of wound healing

So, vitamin A is involved not only in the regulation of skin homeostasis, maintaining many physiological processes at the proper level, but is also involved in restoration work that begins after damage. Retinoic drugs are indicated for skin diseases such as frostbite, burns, wounds, ichthyosis, hyperkeratosis, psoriasis, acne, some forms of eczema and other inflammatory and exudative processes.

Vitamin A is one of the regulators of the sebaceous glands and is necessary for their normal functioning. Its deficiency can lead to acne.

For acne mild and medium degree severity, local use of trans-RK (tretinoin preparations) is effective, which compensate for retinol deficiency.

But sometimes, for some reason, the rate of trans-RK metabolism in sebocytes increases, as a result of which its intracellular concentration is below normal and the symptoms of acne do not go away. In such cases, it is more effective to use synthetic retinoids, which are more resistant to intracellular transformations and are able to activate RAR receptors. Isotretinoin is considered one of the best synthetic retinoids for the treatment of severe forms of acne. It acts through RAR receptors. Systemic therapy with isotretinoin drugs leads to a reduction in the size of the sebaceous glands by almost 90%. Acne scars also heal and the skin renewal process accelerates. To treat acne, preparations with retinol are used both internally (oil solution) and externally (ointment).

The use of retinoic drugs is usually accompanied by a slight whitening effect. This indicates that retinoids interfere with skin pigmentation processes.

But retinol is better known as best ingredient anti-aging.

The gradual thinning of the dermal layer of the skin during aging is associated with two parallel processes:

activation of metalloproteinases - intercellular enzymes that destroy collagen and elastin fibers of the dermis
slowing down the synthesis of new collagen by fibroblasts

As a result of degradation of the intercellular substance of the dermis, the firmness and elasticity of the skin decreases, and wrinkles form. The use of local retinoic drugs stimulates the proliferation of fibroblasts, collagen synthesis, and also reduces the activity of collagen-degrading matalloproteinases.

One of the signs of photodamage to the skin is the appearance of abnormal elastin material that replaces collagen. After ultraviolet irradiation, the expression of the elastin gene increases several times. Tretinoin applied to irradiated skin has the opposite effect - it inhibits the expression of the elastin gene, thereby preventing subsequent protein synthesis.

Retinoids also enhance the synthesis of another important component of the matrix - glycosaminoglycans. Correction and normalization of the composition of the intercellular matrix of the dermis leads to increased skin elasticity and smoothing of fine wrinkles.

Vitamin A deficiency underlies a number of common cosmetic problems, including dry, rough skin and sweat gland atrophy. But due to its high physiological activity, retinol for a long time didn't go beyond medical use. After lengthy laboratory and clinical trials, retinol began to be included in cosmetic preparations, but with great caution. Although they are sold without a prescription, they still require a lot of attention and accuracy when using.

Among the vitamins used in modern cosmetics, vitamin A occupies a special place. It is called a normalizing vitamin due to its unique ability to affect all living skin cells, regulating the processes of proliferation, differentiation and intercellular communication. Topical application of retinol leads to thinning of the stratum corneum and faster renewal of the epidermis, controls pigmentation, normalizes the activity of the sebaceous glands and helps restore the dermal matrix - these properties are simply invaluable for anti-aging and anti-acne cosmetics.

The range of cosmetic products with retinoids offered today is quite wide - from face creams to nail care products. There are even sunscreens, although it is not clear why retinol is included in them, because under direct sunlight all its activity immediately disappears. The use of retinoids in after-sun cosmetics and in night nourishing creams, in which the normalizing properties of vitamin A are especially important, is more justified.

IN last years There has been a tendency to use retinoic drugs in combination with other drugs. Whole ones are created cosmetic lines, which combine the effects of various drugs. Retinoic acid is included in only one of them. The functions of other drugs are usually auxiliary. Some of them prepare the skin for the application of a retinoic drug. For example, soft liquid soap degreases the skin and cleanses it of impurities. For more deep cleaning special ones can be used superficial peelings, softening the stratum corneum and removing dead cells. Most often, such peelings include: fruit acids (glycolic peels), there are also peeling products containing enzymes (enzymatic peels). Another category of drugs that make up the cosmetic series are products that soothe, soften, nourish, protect and restore the skin. Their task is to prevent the occurrence of side effects associated with the action of retinol (erythema, inflammation, redness, etc.), or to alleviate the condition in case of already occurring unpleasant sensations.

An indispensable condition when using such a cosmetic series is strict adherence to the sequence of application of the preparations. Only in this case can you achieve positive results and avoid complications. This comprehensive approach is fully justified in the case of mild to moderate acne, photodamaged and aging skin.

Vitamin A is a very capricious substance that is quickly destroyed in light and oxidized in air. Vitamin A esters are more stable, however, they also require great care and careful adherence to all rules of storage and use. Even if all precautions are taken during the production of cosmetics and the loss of vitamin A is minimal, when the product is applied to the skin, it comes into contact with air and is exposed to light. Physical UV filters that act on the principle of a reflector - titanium dioxide and zinc oxide - help partially prevent the destruction of vitamin A by UV rays. For this reason, they are included in cosmetic products.

To prevent the oxidation of vitamin A, vitamin E is also included in cosmetics (sometimes in combination with a stabilized fat-soluble form of vitamin C).

Another vitamin that is sometimes included in a retinoic formulation is vitamin D. When paired with vitamin A, it stimulates the growth of epidermal cells, regulates granulation and promotes better health. fast healing burns. The combination of four vitamins: A, E, C and D increases the skin's resistance to adverse conditions, such as cold, and also improves the stability of the drug.

Some retinoics include plant extracts enriched with antioxidants, such as green tea and ginkgo extracts.

The production of retinoic cosmetics is not only knowledge-intensive, but also technologically very complex. Therefore, the production of such delicate products is undertaken mainly by serious companies that have a powerful research and production base and are actively involved in research work. The authority of the manufacturer already to some extent guarantees the effectiveness and safety of the product it produces.

Of course, vitamin A can be obtained from food. It is found in the following foods:

orange or yellow vegetables and fruits
parsley, broccoli, spinach, celery, sorrel, cabbage
fish oil, egg yolks, beef liver
cottage cheese, sour cream, milk, butter

If you are a natural lover, then fruits containing vitamin A can be used in face masks. Cottage cheese and sour cream are good for this. You can buy an oil solution of retinol at the pharmacy and add it to face masks, but only in small quantities (1-2 drops of vitamin A per 10 ml of fatty base) and immediately before applying to the face.

Start using retinol products gradually by first testing it on a small area of skin (for a few days) and if no adverse reactions occur, then you can continue. Start with minimal amounts, using vitamin A products every other day. You can then move on to daily use once a day (more frequent use may become harmful). Also, you should not use cosmetics with vitamin A for a long time. Excess retinol will lead to thin, dry skin and flaking. The interval is as follows: 2 months of use, 3 months break.

Side effects and contraindications

For some, retinol can cause a severe allergic reaction (redness of the skin, temporary peeling, rarely blisters, increased sensitivity to sunlight), and not immediately, but after some time. But it may not always be an allergy. Often, irritation appears as a reaction to increased regeneration. In this case, replace the product with retinol with one that contains it in a smaller dose. If this does not help, then stop using cosmetics with retinol, as they are not suitable for you.

Despite the fact that the concentration of retinoids in cosmetics is low and it is believed that they are practically not absorbed into the blood, it is still better to play it safe and not use it during pregnancy. Vitamin A has a strong teratogenic effect (in large doses it can cause congenital defects in fetal development) and retinoic medications are strictly contraindicated for pregnant women.

Women under 30-35 years old should not use products with retinol. They may have the opposite effect: the skin will begin to age prematurely.

From this article you will learn:

Is retinol effective for facial skin - reviews from dermatologists,
retinol - instructions for use at home.

Retinol is one of the many forms of vitamin A that is used in cosmetology to treat acne, reduce the depth of wrinkles and other signs of skin aging caused by sun exposure. But with retinol it’s not so simple, because... There are several forms of it, some of which are more effective, others less.

As we have already said, retinol is only one form of vitamin A. A group of drugs that includes various shapes and vitamin A derivatives, as well as its structural and synthetic analogues, are called retinoids. To rejuvenate facial skin in cosmetology, as a rule, the following forms of vitamin A (retinoids) are used:

true retinol,
retinol esters (retinol acetate, retinol palmitate, etc.),
retinaldehyde,
retinoic acid.

Thus, true retinol and the most commonly found retinol esters in cosmetics are completely different shapes vitamin A. In Fig. 2 we have indicated these forms in descending order of their effectiveness, and below we will compare them in much more detail.

Forms of retinol and their effect in creams -

The only effective form of vitamin A that can affect skin cells is pure retinoic acid. All other listed forms of vitamin A, after application to the skin, must still be converted into retinoic acid (through cycles of chemical transformation) before they can act on skin cells. Those. Most retinoids are only precursors to retinoic acid.

This metabolism of vitamin A forms is as follows –
retinol acetate and retinol palmitate (retinol esters) are the most distant precursors of retinoic acid. When applied to the skin, they first convert into true retinol. The latter is transformed into retinaldehyde, which in turn turns into retinoic acid.

Retinoic acid is not only the only effective form of vitamin A, but also the strongest. Preparations based on it (for example, Tretinoin and Isotrtinoin) are extremely strong, excellent for wrinkles and other signs of skin aging, but are prescription drugs, because They also have a strong irritant effect on the skin. These drugs are prescription drugs. Therefore, weaker forms of vitamin A are used in anti-aging cosmetics.

Important : There is a strict pattern - the more transformation cycles required for the original form of vitamin A in a cosmetic product to reach retinoic acid, the weaker the effect will be. Those. the most ineffective forms will be retinol esters (retinol acetate and retinol palmitate). True retinol will be stronger and more effective than its esters, but inferior in strength to retinaldehyde, which only needs 1 cycle of transformation to retinoic acid.

After all the transformations from retinol (and especially its esters), not much retinoic acid is obtained, which creates only a small concentration of it in the skin. This is due to two reasons: firstly, the transformation always does not occur in full, and secondly, retinoids are unstable compounds and are quickly destroyed.

The latest creams with stabilized vitamin A –
In recent years, a new patented stabilized form of retinaldehyde has entered the American market under the brand name “IconicA”. This is the only form of vitamin A to date and the first in the world that has been stabilized using microencapsulation technology.

The technology ensures that retinaldehyde does not break down during application to the skin and when transformed into retinoic acid, which increases the effectiveness of such cosmetics. Examples of such products include creams and serums from the company “SIRCUIT ® Cosmeceuticals” -

cream SIRCUIT ® “Supernatural-A” (Fig. 3),
serum SIRCUIT ® “Infusion-A” (Fig. 4).

Retinol: reviews from dermatologists

Retinoic acid, into which retinol is converted after application to the skin, has its effect both on the superficial layers of the skin (epidermis) and on the deep layers of the skin, where it stimulates collagen production. The severity of these effects will depend on the concentration of retinol in the product.

Effects of retinol –

1) Fights acne - this occurs due to the fact that retinoic acid eliminates epithelial hyperkeratosis hair follicles, which consists of excessive accumulation of desquamated epithelial cells in the lumen of the follicle, which leads to clogging of the pores with comedones (blackheads). Secondly, retinoic acid helps reduce the production of secretions from the sebaceous glands, and also dissolves the substance that makes up acne, which helps cleanse the pores. This is why retinoids are the best means for treatment.

2) Reduces the thickness of the superficial stratum corneum of the epidermis by accelerating the exfoliation of dead cells, which allows the skin to have a more even texture and look younger.

3) Increases the thickness of the deep layers of the epidermis, thereby increasing its hydrophobic properties (thus reducing the evaporation of moisture from the surface of the skin, which will maintain its hydration).

4) Enhances the production of collagen and elastin in the dermal layer of the skin (by stimulating the function of fibroblasts). Accordingly, it helps reduce the depth of wrinkles and fine lines on the face, and also increases skin elasticity.

6) Lightens age spots.

Retinol concentration and its effectiveness –

Most retinol products contain only about.1% concentration (which = 0.0025% retinoic acid). Only a few products contain a therapeutic concentration of retinol of 0.4%, and only very rare products contain 1% or more retinol in their composition. The vast majority of manufacturers do not indicate the concentration of retinol at all.

It is believed that a retinol concentration of 0.1% to 1% (true retinol, not its esters) is the most optimal for anti-aging cosmetics. In terms of its activity and action, this concentration retains its properties and does not cause strong skin reactions, therefore it can be freely used from any age. If the purchased cream does not contain true retinol, but its esters, then the concentration should be even higher.

Results of studies on the effective concentration of retinol:

Application of retinol with 0.1% concentration –
reviews from cosmetologists and patients show that even if used daily cosmetic cream with retinol at a low 0.1% concentration - the skin still becomes smoother, softer, smoother, with an even matte color.
True, this happens for more a long period time (only after 6-8 months), and you should not expect a reduction in wrinkles. Those. The main improvements will relate to improving skin tone and texture. Moreover, in order to achieve such an effect, it is necessary to use sunscreens in parallel (preferably with a degree SPF protection 30).

Application of retinol with 0.4% concentration –
Conducted studies of products with a 0.4% concentration of retinol (application regimen: 3 times a week for 6 months) showed significant improvements and changes in aging skin cells and even a slight decrease in the depth of fine wrinkles (link to study).

Using a 1% retinol concentration –
such a high concentration almost approaches the effectiveness of products based on pure retinoic acid (1% retinol is approximately equal to 0.025% retinoic acid). Such products already cause irritation and peeling of the skin at first, which in principle indicates that they really work.

Retinol: price

Professional products with retinol are expensive, especially for cosmetics with therapeutic dosages of pure retinol from 0.4 to 1%, or products based on retinaldehyde (which is even higher in effectiveness than pure retinol). Retinol: price per product famous manufacturers will average...

Cream SkinCeuticals “Retinol 0.3” –
contains 0.3% retinol; costs from 5,500 rubles in a branded Russian online store.

Cream SkinCeuticals “Retinol 1.0” –
contains 1.0% retinol; You can buy it on Amazon or Ebay (for about $76).

SIRCUIT ® products –
contain one of the most effective forms retinol – stabilized 0.1% retinaldehyde. SIRCUIT “Supernatural-A” cream costs about $180, SIRCUIT ® “Infusion-A” serum costs about $180 (you can buy it on Amazon or Ebay).

La-Roche-Posay creams –
contain 0.3% retinol; face cream Redermic-R – from 2200 rubles, and cream for the skin around the eyes Redermic-R Yeux – from 1900 rubles.

RoC cream “Retinol Correxion – Deep Wrinkle Nigh Cream” – from 1200 rubles.

Retinol palmitate and retinol acetate: price

Retinol esters in the form of oil solutions, for example, retinol palmitate - the price will be only about 100 rubles per package. To save money, you can add an oil solution of vitamin A to the cream yourself, but keep in mind that even if this can be effective, it will only be to a very small extent. Moreover, it is better to take retinol palmitate, because it is slightly more effective than retinol acetate.

It is best to buy these oil solutions in bottles or capsules. But solutions in ampoules can be thrown away immediately after opening, because...

Who is suitable for cosmetics with retinol?

Retinol for facial skin - reviews from dermatologists and cosmetologists agree that anti-aging cosmetics with retinol are perfect either for preventing skin aging or for skin with the first signs of aging (to even out its tone and texture, as well as moderately increase elasticity).

Cosmetologists recommend retinol for the skin starting from the age of 28, when the first signs of skin fatigue are just beginning to appear. A good cosmetic cream or serum with retinol will be an excellent alternative preparations with pure retinoic acid, if...

if the patient’s skin is still young, but the first signs of aging are already beginning to appear,
if you have never used other retinoids before,
if the skin has slight unevenness and age spots,
if the skin is very sensitive, thin or irritable.

Also, cosmetic products with retinol are necessary for the skin to get used to vitamin A if you plan to use potent retinoids such as Tretinoin. Preliminary use of products with retinol for several months will significantly reduce the severity of side effects (dryness, redness, burning of the skin).

Cosmetics with retinol are definitely NOT suitable for you if...

...if you want to achieve significant changes in your skin, such as a significant reduction in the average and deep wrinkles, fine lines on the face, and also achieve a significant increase in its elasticity, pronounced alignment of skin texture and tone. Research has shown that the optimal effective concentration of pure retinoic acid to significantly reduce medium to deep wrinkles is 0.025 to 0.05%.

For more information about the use of prescription forms of retinoids to reduce medium and deep wrinkles, the results of clinical studies, reviews, read the articles:

Examples of products with Tretinoin and Isotretinoin: photo

Retinol - instructions for use

Learn how to properly use cosmetics with retinol, and even more so professional creams with topical retinoids based on pure retinoic acid - a whole science. Below we have summarized all the main recommendations for using retinol.

1. Planning –

It takes about 4-6 months for the skin to get used to retinol. Therefore, plan to start using it in advance so that in the first months there are no serious “public appearances” (weddings, graduations, etc.). This is more true for products with high concentrations of retinol, or for people with very sensitive and/or dry skin.

You also need to choose the right season when you start using products with retinol. Retinol dries out the skin to some extent, so winter is not best time to start using it. Despite the fact that retinol increases the skin's sensitivity to the sun, it can be used in the summer, but provided that you constantly use products with high degree sun protection (minimum SPF 30), and also use wide-brimmed hats to protect your face from the sun.

2. Conduct an audit of cosmetics -

Get rid of any cosmetics while using retinol that have even the slightest irritating effect. For example, it will not be possible to use -

3. Skin should be clean and dry -

Before using retinol, the facial skin should be washed with a mild cleanser and then dried very well. After washing your face, you should wait 15-20 minutes before applying retinol cream. This will reduce the appearance of dryness, peeling and irritation. Also, after applying retinol, after 15 minutes, you can apply a moisturizer on top, which will “seal” the retinol on the skin and additionally help avoid irritation.

4. Use only small amounts of retinol –

Squeeze out a pea-sized amount of retinol cream, no more. This amount should be enough for the entire face area. Avoid getting retinol on sensitive areas and mucous membranes of the lips, eyelids, and nose.

5. Apply retinol face cream only at night -

Sunlight breaks down retinol molecules and, in addition, using retinol during the day can cause pigmentation on the skin, even if you use sunscreen. Therefore, it is best to apply retinol cream just before bed.

6. Be sure to use sunscreen -

Because retinol exfoliates dead cells from the surface of the skin, removing the skin's natural defenses against exposure ultraviolet rays, every morning before going outside, be sure to apply sunscreen broad spectrum, preferably with SPF 30 protection.

Vitamin A can be used to benefit the body not only through supplements or nutrition, but also in for cosmetic purposes in the form of a solution. Retinol acetate for facial skin is a powerful stimulant. It penetrates deeply into tissues and has complex impact. The principle of action of the substance is to enhance the transmission of impulses between cells. Their constant work and regeneration reduces the aging process. Thanks to protein synthesis and normalization of glands, the condition improves skin.

Peculiarities

The main component of the skin that maintains its healthy and blooming species– collagen. Over time, it cannot be produced in normal quantity the body, so its supply from the outside will be a good support for the deep layers of the skin.

Causes of decreased collagen production

Prolonged exposure to the sun.
Smoking tobacco.
Being in a dirty environment with an increased toxic threat.
Excessive physical activity.
Menopause.
Unbalanced diet, excessive alcohol consumption.
Chronic, infectious diseases, metabolic disorders.
Lack of fluid in cells.

Retinol acetate for facial skin prevents the natural destruction of collagen and replenishes its resources. Cells begin to actively produce elastin, the skin is enriched with vitamins and smoothes out. Few people know about the effects of retinol, but over the past ten years of active use among women, it has shown excellent results.

Creams and masks containing the active component vitamin A rejuvenate the skin and smooth out deep expression wrinkles. With its help, they get rid of defects on the skin - warts, age spots and even small scars. Dry skin gradually disappears and is restored natural color faces.

Thanks to its strong anti-inflammatory properties, stagnant processes in the dermis are eliminated. This allows you to remove acne and pimples. For dry skin types, retinol has the opposite effect in the form of active moisturizing. Gradually, cell death slows down, and the detachment of dry particles becomes invisible.

Beneficial properties of retinol

increasing skin resistance to negative influence environment;
maximum protection from exposure to sunlight;
relieving itching due to various irritations;
cleansing the skin of various toxins;
improving blood circulation;
strengthening of superficial and deep vessels;
narrowing of pores, reduction of hyperemia and swelling.

Types of retinol

The most acceptable form in cosmetology practice is retinol acetate, which is available for injection. In this form, its use is most convenient at home. It is quickly absorbed into the skin and does not leave stains on things.

In some cases, an oil solution is used. It can not be mixed with cosmetic preparations - creams and lotions. A concentrated solution of retinol has the greatest effect. Constant use gradually eliminates the most difficult problems on the face. It is not recommended to use the solution without creams or masks for people with sensitive skin.

Despite the activity of the vitamin in its pure form, it can cause some irritation. For oily or combination skin You can leave the clean solution on all night and wash your face with any cleansing foam in the morning.

Retinol in oil mixed with cosmetic white clay provides an active fight against acne. This mixture is applied in a thick layer and washed off after complete hardening. Cleaning can be done every two days.

Instructions for use

Any substance in normal dosage is beneficial. But when excessive consumption vitamins have the opposite effect. The use of retinol must be correct.

You need to pay attention to age. The use of this regeneratively active vitamin is not recommended for persons under 35 years of age. With early exposure and increased cell stimulation, the skin quickly becomes tired. Cells begin to slow down, and the regeneration process slows down. The reverse process leads to accelerated aging.

For the same reason, retinol is not used constantly, but breaks are taken between certain courses. To avoid an allergic reaction, skin tests are performed. To do this, apply a small amount of pure vitamin to the area near the bend of the arm. It is better to test several times to see if there is a possibility of a rash with multiple exposures.

Using Retinol Acetate

It is recommended to leave Vitamin A overnight after cleansing your face. During sleep, the skin actively regenerates, and with the addition of this substance, the process of elastin restoration will increase several times. Before and during use, it is better to protect yourself from exposure to sunlight. Heat and sun quickly destroy the active component, losing its unique properties.

The solution must be stored in the form in which it is purchased at the pharmacy. Usually this glass jar dark brown. At long-term storage It is recommended to keep it in the refrigerator under a tightly sealed lid.

When retinol for masks is heated to 60 degrees, its compounds are destroyed. Many creams contain elements that enter into various reactions with retinol. To avoid this it is better to use natural oils- burdock, or from fruits. If you are using a regular vitamin cream, then it is better to speed up its application. Retinol is a fat-soluble substance, so diluting it with water is not suitable. A rich texture is required for the effect.

Application steps

Before the restorative procedure, take a steam bath for the face. This will help open the pores as much as possible. You can add herbal decoctions to hot water - chamomile, thyme or lavender.
Applying a scrub will help to thoroughly clean inflamed pores from stagnant subcutaneous sebum. There are many products from this series in cosmetic stores. For oily skin It is recommended to use a scrub with particles of ground coffee or apricot kernels.
Next, the vitamin mixture is applied to problem areas - chin, forehead, areas near the lips and cheekbones. It is recommended to bypass sensitive skin eye.
The mask can be kept for no more than 30 minutes so that the skin does not get tired of the active and oily components. Then it is washed off with regular warm water or milk.
The face is not wiped dry, but left slightly damp. After this, apply any moisturizer with a light texture.

This diet can be done once a week. After ten uses, a break is taken for a month. After two days, a special mask with raw potatoes and yolk will be an excellent cell stimulator.

You can restore aging skin with the help of retinol not only on the face, but in the décolleté area. With age, wrinkles in this area of the body become most noticeable. To enhance the effect, you can try retinol in combination with dairy products. Sour cream has an excellent effect.