Cosmetical tools for skin care: biologically active and excipients in their composition
Cosmetical tools do not fundamentally differ from drugs for external use. They are similar both in the nature of the auxiliary and biologically active components used, and in the production technology.
The main difference between drugs and cosmetics is, first of all, in their different functional purpose. Drugs, in particular dermatological, are used for various pathological conditions of the skin in order to treat it. Cosmetics are used for healthy skin in a normal state for the purpose of purification, regeneration, as well as for the correction and prevention of its cosmetic imperfections that do not require special medical intervention.
The main requirement for cosmetic products is safety, taking into account long-term and uncontrolled use, as well as the presence of a specific local action on intact skin. For this purpose, a variety of biologically active substances and their complexes are introduced into the composition of cosmetics at lower concentrations compared to medicines, including outdoor use.
The preventive effect of cosmetic products is determined by the complex action of biologically active and excipients and largely depends on the properties of the base. In this regard, the effect on the skin of excipients in the composition of cosmetics is given the same attention as active additives, given their complex effect, largely determined by the quality and variety of raw materials used and its properties.
For right choice means of modern cosmetics, knowledge is required not only of the range of cosmetic preparations, but also of the action of auxiliary and biologically active substances in their composition on the skin, taking into account the physiological and biochemical processes occurring in the skin.
The objects of influence of various cosmetic products are the skin and its appendages.
Leather- a universal biological barrier of the body, taking part in metabolism, respiration, excretion, thermoregulation, as well as protection from environmental factors. The skin is divided into three distinct layers: epidermis, dermis (skin proper) and hypodermis (subcutaneous fatty tissue). The epidermis is represented by a typical keratinized stratified epithelium, the dermis is formed mainly connective tissue, hypodermis - mostly adipose tissue.
Depending on the intensity of secretion sebaceous glands distinguish the following types of facial skin: normal, dry, oily, mixed (combined). And depending on the type of skin, cosmetics are classified into preparations for normal, dry, oily, as well as combination and problem skin.
Cosmetics, depending on the effect they have, are divided into preparations for hygienic, preventive and decorative purposes.
The effect of prophylactic cosmetics causes a positive response from the skin and its appendages, which is expressed in the activation and normalization of the physiological and biochemical processes of the skin and, as a result, in improving its appearance.
Depending on the direction of action, cosmetic products are classified into cleansing, protective, deep action(regenerating, moisturizing), etc. The action of cleansing and protective cosmetics, as a rule, is limited to the epidermis. The effect of regenerating, moisturizing, toning cosmetic preparations is directed not only to the epidermis, but also, mainly, to the dermis.
Cleansing cosmetics provide normalization of the respiratory, excretory function of the skin due to the cleansing of the skin from mechanical and fatty contaminants, the secretion of the sebaceous glands, horny scales. For this purpose, lotions, cosmetic milk, peelings, scrubs, cleansing face masks are used.
Protective cosmetics applied for the purpose cosmetic care and for the prevention of occupational skin diseases. For the purpose of cosmetic care, protective cosmetic preparations are used to protect the skin from exposure to factors external environment: UV irradiation, high and low temperatures, weathering, etc.
The main effect of protective preparations used for the prevention of occupational dermatosis is to create an artificial layer on the skin surface that prevents the penetration of irritating chemicals under production conditions. This group of drugs includes protective creams, gels and pastes.
Deep action cosmetics normalize the physiological functions of the skin, impaired as a result of the influence of endogenous (age, general state body, etc.) and exogenous (UV irradiation, high and low temperatures, improper cosmetic care, etc.) factors, and have a complex positive influence on the skin - regenerating, hydrating, toning, etc.
Cosmetic preparations with a deep action on the skin include, in particular, creams, masks, liftings.
Auxiliary and biologically active substances in the composition of cosmetics are selected taking into account the form of release, the direction of action, as well as skin type. Auxiliary components used in the production of cosmetics are traditionally classified depending on their purpose: emulsifiers, structure formers, plasticizers, antioxidants, preservatives, etc., as well as chemical nature(fats and fat-like substances, high molecular weight fatty acids and alcohols, low molecular weight alcohols and acids, alkaline substances, etc.).
The most important thing after treatment is to follow the medical instructions of the specialist who treated us, as well as the doctor or dermatologist. If we see that it gets worse after a few days after the peel, and that our skin does not, we can go back to the place and they prescribe some kind of cream or a special moisturizer for our skin. Sun protection is required for at least one month after the first intervention. If we have done this, it is of the superficial type, in addition to doing this treatment periodically, we must use the minimum protective cream but on a daily basis.
According to the chemical structure, the hydrophobic components of cosmetics are divided into several main classes:
soluble fats (esters of fatty acids and glycerol);
fatty acid;
waxes (esters of long chain fatty acids and alcohols) and waxy substances;
silicones;
hydrocarbon compounds.
The nature of the hydrophobic excipients largely determines the degree of cosmetic impact. Of particular importance are natural fats (triglycerides), which are similar in composition and physico-chemical characteristics to sebum and can functionally replace it.
Vegetable oils, in particular the so-called stone oils (olive, almond, plum, peach, which contain up to 83% oleic acid, up to 10% linolenic acid), as well as cottonseed, corn, castor, coconut , cocoa butter, jojoba, wheat germ.
Along with vegetable oils Animal fats are widely used in the cosmetic industry: mink fat, marmot fat, tortoise fat, which are highly penetrating, nourish and soften the skin well.
Being natural products, close in composition to human skin fat, vegetable and animal fats practically do not have an irritating, toxic-allergenic effect, have a high affinity for the lipid structures of the human body and, accordingly, a high penetrating ability. This ensures the transport of biologically active substances (vitamins, phosphatides, etc.) into the skin and compensates for the lack of lipids, regulates the water-fat and lipid metabolism of the skin.
Due to the content of high-limit fatty acids, stearins, vitamins, phosphatides, a number of natural fats: avocado oil, jojoba oil, tortoise oil, wheat germ oil - are biologically active components of cosmetics. However, most fats of vegetable and animal origin are chemically unstable and are able to decompose (“rancid”) under the influence of oxygen and light to free fatty acids, while changing color, taste, smell and other physicochemical properties and biological activity. In order to increase the stability of natural fats, they are subjected to hydrogenation, and antioxidants (butylated hydroxyanisole, butylated hydroxytoluene) are also used.
Hydrogenated (hydrogenated) fats- hydrogenated castor, coconut, sunflower and other oils - are compounds saturated by adding hydrogen to the double bonds of unsaturated fatty acids, they are highly stable, more high temperature melting.
Fatty acid(stearic acid, stearin) in individual form and in the form of salts are effective emulsifiers of the "oil-water" or "water-oil" type, respectively.
Animals(bee, spermaceti, lanolin and its numerous derivatives) and vegetable(carnauba, candelilla, pine, rose wax, lavender) fats are water-oil emulsifiers and effective structurants stabilizing both types of emulsions. Along with shaping properties, waxes have a high cosmetic efficiency, have a softening, moisturizing, regenerating effect.
hydrocarbons are derivatives of oil fractions purified from unsaturated and aromatic compounds. Vaseline, vaseline oil, perfume oil, paraffin, ceresin are used in the cosmetic industry. They favorably differ from natural fats in chemical stability. However, being synthetic analogs of fats, oil refining products are not able to replace skin fats and, as a result, have practically no penetrating ability. When applied to the surface of the skin, they form a protective, waterproof film, which makes it possible to use hydrocarbon derivatives, as well as silicone derivatives, in the creation of protective cosmetics.
preservatives- These are antimicrobial substances that are introduced into the composition of cosmetic preparations in order to prevent the growth of microbial flora. As preservatives, alcohols (benzyl), phenols, organic acids(benzoic, lemon) essential oils(lavender, mint, etc.).
Antioxidants are introduced into the formulation of cosmetics in order to prevent peroxidation of oil components containing unsaturated bonds. As antioxidants that protect water-soluble components (vitamins B, C) from oxidation, enzymes introduce sodium sulfite, sodium metabisulphite, Trilon B. Fat-soluble antioxidants - butylated hydroxyanisole, butylated hydroxytoluene, gallic acid preparations, vitamin E.
As biologically active substances are used squirrels. The most important proteins of the skin, providing its turgor, elasticity and strength, are collagen, elastin, keratin. A change in the quantitative and qualitative composition of the main native proteins leads to negative consequences- dehydration, loss of elasticity, firmness, etc. The cause of such disorders can be both age-related factors and excessive exposure ultraviolet rays, other negative external factors, as well as changes in the endocrine and nervous systems. Basically, true proteins are introduced into compositions for the care of aging, withering skin. It has been proven that the introduction of collagen and elastin into cosmetics promotes skin hydration and prevents the formation of wrinkles.
Hydrolysates of native proteins of collagen, keratin, elastin, as well as their compositions - products of incomplete protein digestion obtained by acid or alkaline hydrolysis of natural proteins. Being by their nature high-molecular compounds with surface-active properties, protein hydrolysates are used as amphoteric surfactants, while exhibiting not only a stabilizing, emulsifying effect, but also the ability to partially replace damaged protein structures of the skin, making up for the lack of natural skin polypeptides.
The use in the composition of cosmetics provides intensification metabolic processes and is based on the ability to retain moisture in the stratum corneum of the skin. The hydrating effect of amino acids increases in the presence of natural sugars (fructose, galactose, glucose, ribose, xylose) and native polypeptides.
Skin moisturizing agents include water-soluble compounds of the epidermal layer- lactic acid, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid and its sodium salt. The ability of these substances to absorb moisture determines their moisturizing effect, which increases with the introduction of amino acids and collagen. Hyaluronic acid as a factor of "natural hydration" of the skin is contained and synthesized by the structures of the skin, tendons, joint fluid and regulates, as noted above, the isotonicity of the skin.
Enzymes are active ingredient skin and their content in its diversity and activity surpasses many organs. So, the skin contains a significant amount of nuclease, lipase, proteolytic enzymes, in particular protease, hyaluronidase, phosphatase. The activity of enzymes is largely related to the metabolism minerals, especially trace elements, skin pH, vitamins and hormones. Age changes elastics, skin permeability are associated with a decrease in enzyme activity. All this causes a special interest of cosmetologists in this class of biologically active substances. For use in cosmetics, a lipase is proposed in combination with a protease; ribonuclease in complex with nucleic acids, some types of proteases. Being catalysts for a number of metabolic processes, enzymes normalize the natural balance of the skin, contribute to the effect of skin renewal and rejuvenation. In this capacity, the proteolytic enzyme of plant origin papain, obtained from the fruits of the tropical papaya plant, is used, which contributes to the destruction of proteins, in particular keratin, and thus contributes to the process of rejection of dead keratinized epidermal cells.
Hyaluronidase, acting on mucopolysaccharides ( hyaluronic acid), in the composition of cosmetic preparations is used as a factor stimulating absorption nutrients.
Enzymes are also used in preparations that provide enzyme peeling skin.
, being biological catalysts, promote and participate in a number of biochemical reactions, increasing and stimulating the vital activity of the skin.
Vitamin A participates in the synthesis of keratin protein, normalizes the synthesis of melanin. With vitamin A deficiency, the keratinization process is disrupted, leading to the development of hyperkeratosis, as well as keratoderma - severe dryness of the stratum corneum, its thickening and the acquisition of a grayish tint.
Vitamin C affects the formation of collagen, reducing the synthesis of acid mucopolysaccharides involved in its formation. C-avitaminosis leads to a loss of firmness and elasticity of the skin tissue, enhances cell pigmentation - hyperpigmented hyperkeratic papules form at the mouths of the follicles. The introduction of vitamin C is indicated as a "whitening" agent.
B vitamins are activators and participants in the synthesis of amino acids, nucleic acids, regulators of tissue respiration, carbohydrate, protein, fat and water metabolism. Pantothenic acid has a significant effect on skin melanogenesis.
Pyridoxal phosphate - coenzyme when applied to the skin reduces lipid levels by 58% compared with the original; has an anti-inflammatory effect, normalizes pH, is used as part of care creams oily skin persons prone to acne.
Orotic acid(vitamin B13) improves protein metabolism, impaired during skin aging, lipid metabolism, helping to increase skin elasticity, reduce dryness.
prevents oxidation reactions, being an antioxidant, prevents harmful effects from the action of free radicals. In addition, tocopherols prevent the formation of nitrosamines and nitrosamine compounds of nitrites, as possible contaminants present in cosmetic preparations with amines and amides used in the manufacture of cosmetics. The antioxidant effect of vitamin E prevents the formation of such compounds that are harmful to human health. The anti-inflammatory effect on the skin of vitamin E esterification products has been established.
Vitamin F represents a complex of unsaturated fatty acids - linoleic, linolenic, arachidonic and their isomers. Performing biocatalytic functions for the oxidation of saturated fatty acids of the body, they are involved in the process of assimilation of fats, in lipid metabolism. The lack of these products leads to dry skin, the appearance of cracks and various dermatitis. The biogenic stimulating properties of vitamin F have led to its use as a regenerating supplement in case of tissue damage. The ability to increase skin elasticity is explained by the presence of a carboxyl group and a hydrogen ion, which form a strong molecular layer on the surface of the tissue. Also, vitamin F is able to activate the action of vitamin A, E, carotene.
Vitamin PP(nicotinic acid) is part of the enzymes that are oxygen carriers and involved in the synthesis of hemoglobin; promotes the expansion of blood vessels, improves blood circulation, which tones and nourishes the skin.
The principle of the optimal combination of biologically active substances (vitamins, proteins, fats, trace elements), as well as specific substances (alkaloids; glycosides, saponins, phytoncides, phytohormones) is the basis of "phytocosmetics", one of the areas of cosmetology. One of the main advantages of plant raw materials in the composition of cosmetics is their naturalness, which leads to a minimal likelihood of side effects. In particular, phytohormones isolated from ivy, centipede, ginzhifil have a softer, more gentle effect on the body and do not cause hormonal disorders. cause anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, regenerating effect, stimulate biochemical processes in skin, toning and nourishing the skin. For example, rosemary extracts tone the skin...
Of course, if we are going to expand the frequency of peeling to medium or deep, we must use a factor of 50 for next days. To be sure, it's best to turn it on for a week. Before applying any type of face or skin cream, always wash your face well for basic care. Using warm water and little or no soap products, we avoid contamination, skin irritation, or wound contamination. For almost immediate improvement, it is best to stop using cosmetic products or perfumes containing alcohol, which is the ingredient that has the most.
A. G. Bashura, T. D. Gubchenko, S. V. Andreeva
National University of Pharmacy
Selection of face care products
The cream helps to get rid of defects and preserve the beauty of the skin, but this only works if you did not grab the first one that came across from the shelf in the store, but turned to a beautician, and he told you about your skin type and about the cream that is right for you. At improper care skin appearance may deteriorate. It is better to give preference to products that belong to such a direction as eco cosmetics - natural ingredients, useful composition, safe and hypoallergenic.
If natural cosmetics are used, we must avoid those substances that can cause an allergic reaction, as this will worsen the condition of the skin after peeling. To do this, we can try some that are recommended to us for use during later care, to make sure that when normal skin it causes some kind of irritant effect on us or an allergic reaction. We can use special healing creams that are prescribed or recommended by a specialist, since not all of them can be used for the effect created by each of them.
Also in a good way to improve skin color can be hygienic and nourishing masks and massages, but they should also be carried out first under the supervision of a specialist, and only after you have acquired the necessary skills, already on your own.
If you start to have wrinkles, then this may be due to the habit of squinting, wrinkling your forehead or grimacing, it is better to try to get rid of this habit, but the main thing is not to overdo it and not turn into a statue.
They are usually placed between two or three times a day, always with a face wash and depending on the condition of the skin and the frequency of the peel chosen. This speeds up the process of desquamation that occurs after this cosmetic intervention, because by removing the superficial layers of the skin, the face begins a new process of skin formation, which becomes more sensitive in the first stages of creation.
We can not touch the area where peeling is practiced: neither for such as new granites, nor for scratches due to itchy irritation. We will only touch the face when we apply creams. For the rest of the day, we must resist the temptation to touch our face, as the skin is very sensitive and we can infect it if our hands are dirty.
Hand skin care
If you are doing housework, then your hands come into contact with water much more often, which requires good care to keep them in perfect condition.
Therefore, for washing hands, it is better to use toilet soap And warm water and be sure to dry them. To soften the skin, it is better to apply a cream on your hands before going to bed. For example, try love 2 mix organic cream - the products of this line have a pleasant aroma, natural ingredients, which means they will give your skin a complete care.
You must also avoid the sun at all costs. In addition to the sunscreen we apply, we must wear a hat or cap that completely covers our face if we go out. It is better to avoid contact with polluted air, typical of cities, as our skin is especially susceptible to infection. It is also important to take care of yourself on the inside during the healing days. At this stage, we will ensure that the process of regeneration of the new layer of the dermis will be faster and will be better formed.
No makeup, no chemicals, no sweat
We will not use cosmetics of any kind. Until they have passed at least 24 hours, our skin will not be ready for this type of cosmetics. The most important thing is to wait two days if we do a medium or deep chemical peeling. The salt water of the sea together with the sand does not contribute quick recovery. Besides, he would get infected, and that would be more than normal. We have to wait about two days until we are sure we can go to the beach.
Manicure
Even with catastrophic employment, arms and legs should look perfect. But let's list a few. general rules, observing which your manicure will be beautiful and seductive.
It is best to use varnish, the color of which is close to natural. No need to cut your nails too short - they will look ugly, and if your hands are too long, they will look like bird paws. most beautiful shape the nail is almond-shaped.
The pools don't help as the chlorine is chemical which would greatly affect our already irritated skin. This particular location includes gymnasiums, saunas or wet and warm places. The only thing we will achieve is to moisturize the skin and become infected, since the pores of our face are especially affected by peeling.
Atopic dermatitis skin needs special care. Both children and adults can suffer from atopic dermatitis, but flare-ups of dermatitis can be prevented by following a few simple recommendations. Changes in temperature and our hygiene habits can greatly affect the health of our skin. For example, when it's cold, we tend to use very hot water in our hygiene, and this has a negative effect on the skin suffering from atopic dermatitis.
Decorative cosmetics
If you are young, it would be better to do without it at all. But if you want to appear mature, then remember - the main principle is "without fanaticism." Bright lips age and deprive you of individuality, it is better to use natural shades. In sunlight, bright makeup emphasizes the sharpness of the face and it becomes ugly.
To prevent outbreaks of atopic dermatitis, it is important to know and follow following advice. It is important to take preventive measures to avoid outbreaks and keep track of when and where they appear to reveal possible triggers. Experts recommend using the caution indicated for atopic skin to help nourish and protect the skin's skin barrier and avoid too hot water as this can exacerbate inflammation. Dry your skin thoroughly. It is most advisable to use cotton towels and without friction to avoid damage and irritation of the affected areas. Apply a suitable moisturizer. Skins with atopic dermatitis are characterized by being very dry. Experts recommend using emollients daily to ensure required amount skin nutrients. Use sunscreen For sensitive skin. It is very important to protect the skin from sun rays throughout the year, as well as Special attention the most sensitive areas. Covering can be counterproductive. Especially children are treated by all means to cover them too much so that they do not catch cold. In many cases, they end up sweating and worsen the symptoms of this condition. Avoid rubbing synthetic clothing. It is recommended to choose cotton clothing and avoid synthetics and wool, which tend to cause allergic skin reactions. In addition, when washing, a double rinse is recommended to completely remove residues. detergents. The use of softeners is not recommended. Use special gels for the bathroom. Especially in the case of children, it is recommended to use products that do not contain soap, which dry out the skin too much. Any product used must be hypoallergenic and fragrance-free. Maintain a humid environment in rooms. To avoid excessive dryness skin, it is desirable that the interior is damp, especially in winter due to the use of heating. Do not overindulge in certain foods in your diet. While no food is officially banned, some carry more risks than others. Consult with your doctor and neglect, if applicable, those who may cause a crisis.
- Prevention is the first step.
- Treat and cleanse your skin daily.
- Hygiene is essential to maintain healthy skin.
You need to select powder based on natural color skin and hair. Brown-haired women and blondes with fair skin you need a slightly pinkish powder, and brunettes better fit dark shade with tan effect.
In applying mascara, you also need to adhere to the golden mean. You can only slightly tint the eyelashes and thereby emphasize the eyes, because with abundant application, streaks may appear, and you will become like a clown.
The skin is our visible layer and needs to be taken care of, not only for aesthetic reasons, but mainly for health. But in this quest to make him look cute, mistakes are often made that can be detrimental. Not knowing the type of skin you have.
It is important to know your skin type, to know which creams to use and what specific care to take. Do not properly clean. You must visit a specialist to perform deep cleansing that are considered necessary. This treatment is used to eliminate black spots and all the pollutants in the skin. In addition, you should clean your face daily, morning and night, using an appropriate cream, even when makeup is not used, because the skin retains pollution and dirt from the environment.
If you do not like the look of your eyebrows, then you can correct this with the help of special tweezers, but here you can not get carried away.
Use cosmetics wisely and only after consulting a specialist, and everything will be fine!