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cosmetic substances. Harmful substances in cosmetics. How dangerous are toxic substances in cosmetics?

Hello everyone!

What are the most harmful substances in cosmetics and what should not contain quality cosmetics in its composition.

Perhaps this knowledge will allow you to choose worthy remedy to care for your appearance, which means providing your body not only with beauty and health.

From this article you will learn:

According to the research of Stacy Malkin, the initiator of the movement for safe cosmetics(Campaign for Safe Cosmetics) and author of Not Just a Pretty Face: The Ugly Side of the Beauty Industry. Beautiful face: the unsightly underside of the beauty industry), the 15 most dangerous substances have been identified.

The most harmful components in the composition of cosmetics

Usually, actives and other valuable components, the concentration of which is less than 1%, are mentioned earlier in the composition, which may suggest a larger amount, although this does not have to be so. This is one of the typical marketing gimmicks used by some cosmetic companies. Very often, many substances are present in cosmetics in concentrations below 1%, so the marketing of the placement of active substances indicates that there are more of them.

The basic cosmetic formulation can be divided into several categories of substances. base substances excipients active ingredients flavorings. . The first group of raw materials, the amount of which is the highest in the recipe, is the ingredient cosmetic base. They can even make up more than 90% of the warehouse. Depending on the type of cosmetics, its form and purpose, it can be: water, alcohol or fatty material. The most popular raw material that often appears at the beginning of a composition is water.

15 most harmful ingredients in cosmetics

So, the most dangerous and harmful substances in cosmetics:

  1. Silicone (Silicone) - bypass any cosmetics that contain more than 50% of this component in its composition
    This is especially true for hair products. Choose the one where Silicone free is indicated.
  2. Tallow or animal fat (Animal fat) - promotes the development of bacteria on the skin.
  3. Mineral oil - mineral oil is a product of oil refining. Forms a film on the face and does not allow him to breathe. Dangerous!!! Often included in foundation. Look for the Oil Free label. What oils clog pores
  4. Paraben (parabens) - preservatives (most often indicated as butyl, ethyl, methyl paraben). Cause allergies, dermatitis, breast cancer. When choosing, look for the inscription Haraben free.
  5. Glueen (gluten) is a cereal protein that can be dangerous for certain categories of people.
  6. Bentonite (bentonite) - highly toxic bleaching clay.
  7. Glycols (glycol) are toxic, carcinogenic and mutagenic.
  8. Talc (talc) is toxic. This is especially true for powder. When choosing, look for the inscription Talc free
  9. Phthalates (Phthalates, BBP, DBP, DEHP, DEP, DIDP) Cause genetic disorders, especially dangerous during pregnancy.
  10. Glycerin (not vegetable). Sucks moisture out of the skin and makes the skin even drier than it was.
  11. Laureth or lauryl sulfate sodium (Sodium Laureth Sulphate). Included in many shampoos. Causes hair loss, dandruff, scalp irritation
  12. Artificial dyes. Labeled as Fd&C or D&C followed by color and number. For example, Fd&cred #6. Dangerous and toxic
  13. Triclosan (Triklozan) destroys endocrine system. Forms toxic products when combined with tap water
  14. Metal salts (mercury, lead, titanium) Mercury, Lead Acetate, plumbous acetate.

Dangerous abbreviations on a cosmetics label

Remember these icons:

It acts as a solvent and is the main ingredient in: micellar liquids, creams, shampoos, balms, tonics, peels, gels and many other beauty products. Manufacturers, however, cannot use conventional tap water, it must be chemically clean water, demineralized and free from microbial contamination such as viruses, bacteria or fungi.

Another commonly used solvent is an alcohol, usually ethanol and isopropanol. Their advantages include ease of mixing with water, excellent solvents for many substances. In addition, if the alcohol content of cosmetics exceeds 20%, it inhibits the growth of microorganisms, and there is no need to introduce additional preservatives.

  • "PEG"
  • DMDM hydantoin
  • Imidsazolidinyl urea
  • Methylchloroisothiazolinone
  • Methylisothiazolinone
  • Triclosan
  • Triclocarban
  • Triethanolamine (or "TEA")

And it's far from complete list harmful components. The list can be continued for a long time.

Of course, it is worth considering the opinion of manufacturers who endlessly repeat that without some components, it would simply be impossible to make cosmetics, that they are harmful only in certain proportions, and they are safe as part of cosmetics.

The last group of basic raw materials are Various types fatty materials: oils, fats and their derivatives. They form the oil phase in emulsions and are responsible for moisturizing and lubricating the skin. Oils are emollients or raw materials that, after the water has evaporated from cosmetics, remain on the skin and form thin layer the so-called. movie.

Fatty components can also be a carrier of active substances and participate in their migration to the stratum corneum. Certain fatty components, such as fatty acids, which are part of vegetable oils, have the ability to restore some skin structures.

Even if this is true, and the amount of harmful components in creams is within the normal range, what about the fact that environmentalists are talking about so much?!

About the ability to accumulate harmful components in the body. It turns out, sooner or later, this poison will shoot if it is very for a long time continue to store it in your body.



The names of oils are usually created based on the name of the raw materials used to produce them. The cosmetic base is extremely important and largely determines the rate of penetration of the active ingredients into the skin. They help to combine water and oily materials in a stable way to further ensure the correct consistency and stability of cosmetics. We are talking about emulsifiers that combine the water and oil phases in emulsions, that is, cream, lotion, balm. The content of emulsifiers is definitely lower than the base substances and varies depending on the type of product.

And also, please, when buying any means of caring for your appearance and household chemicals, pay attention to these icons and give preference to products with them.

This means this manufacturer DOES NOT TEST COSMETICS ON ANIMALS!!!


Emulsifiers are most often a group of surfactants. This is an extremely complex group of substances. They are individually selected for a given cosmetic composition. The structure of emulsifiers affects their properties and affects the skin.

Often, its derivatives, such as magnesium derivatives, are used as a substitute. Another group of auxiliary agents that affect appearance, product consistency and application, are rheology modifiers. They are designed to improve the viscosity and stability of cosmetics or to create a gel consistency. These modifiers include: xanthan gum, carboxymethyl hydroxypropyl guar, carboxymethyl cellulose acetate butyrate, cellulose gum and others.

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The use of excipients in modern skin care cosmetics

S. V. Andreeva
National Pharmaceutical Academy of Ukraine

The next group, most often the most important for consumers, are active ingredients that distinguish cosmetics and decide on the purchase of a given drug. We can meet them in cosmetic concentrations up to several percent. As the name suggests, these are substances that actively affect our skin and improve its condition. We can divide them into physical and chemical actions. Physically active substances are mainly components that form occlusion on the skin - emollients.

The second type of active substances are ingredients that react with elements of the stratum corneum, such as certain vitamins, flavonoids, or oxidizing agents used to bleach hair. Active substances can be quite difficult to interact with the biological structures of the skin and enzymes. They can limit sebum secretion, soothe irritation, or stimulate microcirculation.

In modern domestic and foreign cosmetics for various purposes (for the skin of the face, body, hands, etc.) and for various directions of action (protective, cleansing, hydrating, toning, stimulating the reparative and metabolic processes of the skin, etc.), a wide range of excipients is used.

It should be noted that cosmetic products are not fundamentally different from medicines for outdoor use. They are similar both in the nature of the used auxiliary and biologically active components as well as production technology. However, in accordance with the requirement of harmlessness for prophylactic cosmetics and taking into account their long-term and uncontrolled use, biologically active substances are introduced into their composition in low concentrations. The preventive effect of cosmetic products is determined by the complex action of biologically active and excipients and largely depends on the properties of the base. In this regard, the effect on the skin of excipients in the composition of cosmetics is given the same attention as active additives, their complex effect is taken into account, largely determined by the quality and variety of raw materials used and its properties.

Ingredients that are usually found at the end of the composition are preservatives, flavors and colors. Preservatives protect cosmetics from the development of viruses, bacteria and fungi. It is a very important component of cosmetics, although its concentration is low, usually below 1%. Systems containing mainly water in their composition, stored in warm rooms with high humidity, are an ideal environment for the development of microorganisms.

Cosmetic preservatives are mainly synthetic substances, the amount of which is chosen individually for each cosmetic according to the limits set by the European Commission's expert panel based on numerous studies, publications and observations. With the help of product protection, essential oils can appear, the addition of which can help the preservation system and even replace it in some cases. However, it should be remembered that essential oils and their components are very allergenic.

Auxiliary components used in the manufacture of cosmetics are traditionally classified according to their chemical nature(fats and fat-like substances, higher fatty alcohols and acids, low molecular weight alcohols and acids, alkaline substances, etc.), as well as depending on the purpose (emulsifiers, preservatives, antioxidants, etc.).

The source of the beautiful fragrance of cosmetics can be synthetic substances or compositions for fragrances created from natural essential oils. Fragrant compositions of natural essential oils are mainly used in perfumery products. Synthetic blends are often added to other cosmetic products. The aroma of cosmetics largely determines its reception. A fragrance composition often masks bad smell other raw materials.

The fragrance ingredients in their pure form have very intense aromas, and in cosmetics there is enough a small amount. They are at the end of the composition, usually in components with a concentration below 1%. Perfume ingredients can often be a source of contact allergies.

A common auxiliary component in the composition of cosmetics are lipids - fats, waxes, products of their processing and fat-like substances, which is due to the dermatological value and biological activity of some of them, as well as valuable technological properties. The dermatological value of lipids lies in the fact that they are able to replace sebum in case of impaired sebum secretion and thereby maintain normal water balance skin, protect it from harmful atmospheric influences and temperature changes. By dissolving the deposited secrets of the sebaceous and sweat glands, lipids keep dust particles in suspension, which contributes to their removal.

It is estimated that about 1-3% of Europeans may be sensitized by certain fragrance components. These substances can be easily found in the "Cosmetic Scan" application among potential allergens. To obtain desired color, several dyes are mixed with each other. Cosmetic dyes are often metal oxides, but you can also find organic dyes such as curcumin or chlorophyll. Their pigmentation is usually very intense, so a small addition of them is often enough.

Each cosmetic before entering the store shelves undergoes a series of tests and an individual safety assessment carried out by qualified specialists, the so-called safety assessors. Safety assessment is a multi-step process. The safety evaluator evaluates, among other things: the compliance of the composition with the law, the toxicological profile of each component and the test results of the finished product. Tested, among other things, stability, effectiveness of microbiological protection and dermatological properties.

A special place in the composition of cosmetics is given to vegetable and animal fats, which, in addition to triglycerides of higher fatty acids, contain mono- and diglycerides, individual fatty acids, phosphatides, sterols, vitamins, lipochromes, some enzymes, etc.

According to the content of highly unsaturated fatty acids and, accordingly, biological activity, vegetable oils are arranged in the following descending order: linseed, sesame, soybean, corn, sunflower, cottonseed, peanut, olive, almond, peach, cocoa. However, their rancidity and skin irritancy increase in the same order, due to the presence of peroxide compounds.

Use the new cosmetic scan before the premiere

Cosmetics used in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations are safe for consumers and must not exceed the allowable concentrations of substances regulated by the European Commission. Product Review Information about how other users have rated the product. Ability to report errors in products. Absolutely the new kind apps and navigation.

It may seem like the world is completely crazy when it comes to cosmetics and natural care. How to recognize natural cosmetics, is it really that easy? Shelves in pharmacies, outlet from a variety of products labeled as ecological, bio, natural or organic. Therefore, the choice of specific cosmetics is not a simple matter. Manufacturers excel each other in ideas of promoting their product, like one that has the best squad and action.

Studies by a number of authors have established that vegetable oils penetrate the epidermal barrier of the skin diffusely and through the mouths. hair follicles. Apricot and castor oil. Vegetable oils are known to increase the lipolytic activity of the skin. Their use is expedient in the composition of drugs that normalize the fat metabolism of the skin. The most active in this respect are linseed, corn, soybean, cottonseed, olive oils. Pronounced estrogenic activity of rapeseed, corn, sunflower and some other vegetable oils, as well as spermaceti and lanolin.

Therefore, it is important to act consciously in order to prevent manufacturers from being deceived. So, what is the principle of choosing cosmetics? How to recognize the one whose composition is actually natural? We give some advice, for those who start their adventure with natural care, or for those who want to expand their knowledge in this area.

If a product contains, for example, argan oil or jojoba oil, this does not mean that it is natural cosmetics, but contains only natural ingredients. Subsequent substances may be far from this scheme. According to the guidelines, natural cosmetics contain components mainly of plant, mineral and animal origin. Natural cosmetics should not contain any synthetic substances in their composition. Occasionally, however, some product certification organizations allow such substances in quantities not exceeding 5%.

Determined that peanut butter increases the water content in the skin; sunflower, corn and linen - do not affect its content, and cotton, apricot - show a downward trend common water in the skin.

IN last years characteristic feature development of cosmetic production, especially abroad, is the search and application of new effective types raw materials of natural origin and products of their processing. Along with the previously used oils, pistachio, safflower, avocado and jojoba oils, wheat germ oil are now widely used. Their distinctive ability is resistance to rancidity and a fairly high biological activity. In particular, safflower and avocado and jojoba oils have a softening, moisturizing effect, and avocado oil, in addition, is photoprotective. In addition to liquid vegetable oils, animal fats are used in the cosmetic industry, of particular interest are mink, turtle, marmot fats. Mink oil, for example, is characterized by stability and pronounced photoprotective properties and is used in a variety of skin care products for the face, hands, body, sunscreens and others.

The standards that natural cosmetics must comply with have not yet been regulated by legal grounds. Most recommendations are created by the manufacturers themselves in an effort to ensure that the product they sell is best quality. Thus, they try to ensure that cosmetics have the largest number certificates.

This is not only due to the growing number of brands offering such products, but also due to increased consumer awareness. Gradually, we are returning to the traditional recipes that our grandmothers and great-grandmothers use. natural cosmetics can be cooked at home. Rinse hair, soap, body scrubs. All this can be done independently, starting from 100% natural, often widely available and inexpensive products. A huge plus is that we understand what is for our body organic cosmetics much better than artificial and synthetic substances.

A special place among the auxiliary ingredients in the composition of cosmetics is occupied by petroleum products, in particular mineral oils - perfumery and vaseline, due to their availability and stability during storage. Their chemical inertness allows the introduction of various labile biologically active compounds into the composition and ensures a long shelf life. In addition, mineral oils are compatible with other types of raw materials and form stable emulsions with all types of emulsifiers.

Mineral oils are successfully used in moisturizing formulations due to their ability to form a thin protective film on the surface of the skin that prevents moisture loss. Paraffin hydrocarbons are poorly absorbed by the skin, which leads to their use in cleansing and massage products. The properties of petroleum products to clog the mouths of sweat glands and hair follicles are used in cosmetic preparations to protect the skin from external adverse factors, chemical reagents, etc.

There are data on harmful effects paraffins on skin with prolonged use (violation of sweating, pigmentation, especially under the influence of UV radiation), which is associated with the presence of impurities, in particular unsaturated aromatic hydrocarbons, and with good cleaning mineral oils rarely appears.

A promising auxiliary component of cosmetics are silicones - polymers based on a group of alternating oxygen and silicon atoms associated with organic radicals. Depending on the nature of the radical, silicone oils have a different consistency. Most often, cosmetics contain polysiloxane fluids No. 1 and No. 5 in concentrations up to 8%. Silicones are physiologically neutral, mix well with sebum, promote the formation of a thin water-repellent film that does not interfere with the natural vital activity of the skin. The compatibility of silicone oils with many types of raw materials makes them promising for use in products for various purposes - photoprotective, hygienic, including children's, professional protective, etc. There is evidence of the antioxidant effect of silicone oils already at a concentration of 1–3%, which formulations of vitamins, enzymes, sterols, as well as reduce the amount of antioxidants.

Widespread in various cosmetic preparations are waxes - vegetable (carnauba, candelilla, etc.) and animals (beeswax, lanolin), as well as products of their processing. Waxes by physical properties and structure are close to fats and in chemical composition in addition to esters of higher fatty acids and monohydric higher alcohols, they contain fatty acids and alcohols, hydrocarbons, etc. Animal waxes are more often used as part of skin care cosmetics.

Beeswax in composition (33% myricyl palmitate, 12% myricyl palmitooleate, 3–15% higher fatty acids, high molecular weight hydrocarbons, lipochromes, estrogens, etc.) pleasant softness and velvety. Beeswax, in addition, has an emulsifying ability and is a structure-forming component of emulsion preparations such as oil / water and water / oil in concentrations of 2–3% and 5–6%, respectively.

Lanolin (wool fat) contains cholesterol and isocholesterol esters of cerotinic and palmitic acids (about 90%), free fatty acids and alcohols, of which sterols are of particular importance: cholesterol, isocholesterol and oxycholesterol. The extremely wide use of lanolin in nourishing, moisturizing, protective, cleansing cosmetics is due to its ability to functionally replace skin fats, moisturize the skin by creating a protective film on it that does not impede the natural evaporation of moisture from its surface. Lanolin has a softening effect on the skin, eliminates its peeling, is quickly absorbed and promotes the absorption of other biologically active components of the cosmetic formulation by the skin. The presence in its composition of non-esterified fatty alcohols, as well as esters and acids, determines its use as an emulsifier, co-emulsifier and structure former of emulsion cosmetics.

In recent years, a number of artificial waxes and special semi-finished products have been developed, which, unlike natural waxes devoid of their unfavorable organoleptic properties and have a more pronounced emulsifying ability.

According to their physiological and biological action, lipoids would be more correctly attributed to the group of biologically active compounds. However, due to their pronounced surface-active properties, as well as valuable technological qualities (dissolution agents, emulsion stabilizers, antioxidants), they are traditionally classified as excipients. Lipoids are characterized by the presence of residues of higher fatty acids in the molecule and, according to their chemical structure, they are classified into sterols and phospholipids.

Sterols are hydroxyl derivatives of cycloperhydrophenanthrene, in terms of the ratio of carbohydrate and hydrogen atoms they are close to polyterpenes. According to the origin of sterols, animal (zoosterols) and vegetable (phytosterols) are distinguished, which are similar to each other in physicochemical, physiological and biological functions.

Cholesterol is one of the most important zoosterols widely used in cosmetics. It is used in concentrations up to 2% as an effective respiratory catalyst, which has a strong effect on oxidative processes and metabolism in the skin, as an emollient and stimulant. In addition, cholesterol is cosmetic product promotes the penetration of other biologically active substances into the skin. Cholesterol can be used as an emulsifier and emulsion stabilizer, as well as a dissolution agent.

Common plant sterols are stigmasterol, ergosterol, and sitosterol, the latter of which is most commonly used in cosmetics. Phytosterols are easily absorbed into the skin, increasing its water-retaining and regenerating capacity. There is evidence of a number of their advantages over animal sterols. The introduction of phytosterols into cosmetic products is recommended in the amount of 0.1–10.0%, mainly 0.1–1.0%, where they are also used as emulsifiers.

Increasing importance in recent years has been given to the use of natural and synthetic phospholipids. The most valuable of them is lecithin, which is actively involved in metabolism, including in the skin. According to the chemical structure, lecithin is an ester of phosphoric acid and alcohols: choline and glycerol substituted with fatty acid residues, which are represented by residues of saturated (stearic) and unsaturated (linoleic, linolenic, arachidonic) acids. There are two types of lecithin - egg and soy. Soy lecithin is more available, which is a mixture of 65% natural phospholipids, 30–35% soybean oil, a small amount of glycerin, ethanolamine, galactose, B vitamins, biotin, choline.

Lecithin in the composition of cosmetics (1-3%) is quickly absorbed by the skin and has a softening, moisturizing and tonic effect. Due to the pronounced surface-active properties, lecithin promotes a deeper penetration of fatty, including biologically active substances, into the epidermis. There is evidence of the antioxidant properties of lecithin. The disadvantage of lecithin is its susceptibility to microbial spoilage and oxidation by atmospheric oxygen. In this regard, its use in cosmetic preparations is possible only if highly effective preservatives and antioxidants are introduced into them.

TO the most important types cosmetic raw materials include high molecular weight fatty acids and alcohols. Being an integral part of lipids, high molecular weight fatty acids, in particular stearic and palmitic, are found in the composition of lipids secreted by the sebaceous glands of the skin. As a natural component of sebum, these acids in cosmetics have positive influence on the skin - soften and give the skin a pleasant haze, promote the penetration of biologically active additives. Higher fatty acids are used both individually and in the form of esters and salts. At present, higher fatty acids and alcohols have become even more important as emulsifiers and structure formers. Stearic acid and stearin (a mixture of stearic and palmitic acids in a ratio of 3:1 with an admixture of myristic, lauric and oleic) are one of the main components of protective, moisturizing and other emulsion cosmetics.

High molecular weight fatty alcohols are introduced into emulsion cosmetics most often as emulsifiers to stabilize emulsions of both types and impart the required rheological properties.

Of the low molecular weight alcohols, polyalcohols are the most widely used as auxiliary components in cosmetic products: glycerin, propylene glycol, sorbitol, etc. Being hygroscopic substances, they are used as effective moisturizing ingredients, as well as solvents, preservatives and antifreeze additives. Glycerin in cosmetology is used independently and as part of cosmetic preparations as an emollient for dry and flaky skin, cracked lips and hands, etc. In the form of diluted solutions (up to 30%), glycerin is easily absorbed into the skin and, irritating exteroreceptors, improves blood circulation, which helps to soften the skin. However, prolonged use of glycerin in concentrated form can cause darkening of the skin and the formation of blackheads.

Glycerin at a concentration of up to 10% is widely used in cosmetic formulations as an active hydrotant. At higher levels, excess glycerol forms a non-drying film on the skin. To increase thermal stability, as well as an antifreeze and preservative agent, glycerin is introduced into the composition of emulsion preparations in an amount of 3–8%.

In recent years, there has been a tendency to replace glycerol with glycols, in particular propylene glycol, which have a more pronounced hydrating effect and have high antifreeze properties. In addition, glycols have higher bactericidal and preservative properties.

One of the components of cosmetics is ethyl alcohol.

In cosmetology, ethyl alcohol is also used individually as an effective bactericidal drug. At concentrations of more than 50%, ethyl alcohol can dissolve sebum, which leads to skin flaking and inflammation. Therefore, it is more rational to use ethyl alcohol in concentrations of 18–22%, 22–30%, 30–35%, respectively, for the care of dry, normal and oily facial skin. In cosmetics intended for dry and normal skin face, it is recommended to enter no more than 5%, and for oily skin- up to 10% ethyl alcohol. As part of emulsion systems, ethyl alcohol is also used as a solvent for essential oils, extracts and other biologically active additives. At concentrations greater than 15%, ethyl alcohol is an active preservative and, to some extent, especially when combined with glycerin, has antifreeze properties.

Among the excipients used in the composition of cosmetics, a special place is occupied by low molecular weight acids due to various positive properties. Acids (boric, lactic, citric, salicylic, benzoic, etc.) are used to correct insufficient skin acidity, increase turgor and reduce skin pores, as well as preservatives and antioxidants.

From alkaline materials as cosmetic raw materials, sodium and potassium hydroxides, sodium tetraborate and bicarbonate, triethanolamine are most widely used. Alkalis vigorously emulsify sebum, promote rejection of the surface layer of the epidermis, which is necessary for cleansers, preparations for removing freckles, skin spots, etc. By binding a number of sweat components, alkaline materials have a deodorizing effect. Weak alkalis cleanse the sebaceous and sweat glands, helping to eliminate blackheads and blackheads. In addition, alkalis are added to emulsion preparations to emulsify fats, waxes and fatty acids.

Thus, the article summarizes and systematizes data on the use of the main types of auxiliary components in the composition modern means preventive purpose: lipids (vegetable and animal fats and waxes, products of their processing); mineral oils and silicones; lipids (sterols and phospholipids); high molecular weight fatty acids and alcohols; low molecular weight acids, alcohols and alkaline agents. Since biologically active additives are introduced into the composition of cosmetic products for various purposes in low concentrations, the preventive effect of this group of drugs is achieved by the complex action of biologically active and auxiliary ingredients. In this regard, published data can serve as one of the criteria for assessing the quality and effectiveness of cosmetic products intended for skin care.

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