When choosing a shampoo, do you believe the loud promises of manufacturers? Not worth it!
Even if the product makes the hair soft, elastic and silky, this does not negate the possible harm to health.
What dangerous shampoo ingredients masquerade as friendly or neutral?
Hair shampoo is one of the most popular and best-selling products in the Russian Federation. Even if a person adheres to minimalism in personal care, this remedy will certainly be found on his shelf in the bathroom.
It is generally accepted that shampoos are harmless to our body, because all samples are dermatologically tested and clinically tested. But, nevertheless, they still contain dangerous substances. They are hidden under incomprehensible letter designations, they can hide behind the wording "perfumery composition", "perfume" or "preservative".
The category of especially dangerous includes those that can lead to limited skin functions, disruption of the integrity of the cover, dermatological and oncological diseases, and affect the hormonal background. What substances are we talking about? And why are they still present in shampoos?
No successful brand will release a new product to the market until it has been tested for safety. Experts determine microbiological indicators, look for toxic elements (lead, mercury, arsenic), determine the mass fraction of chlorides and the toxicity index of the product. If all indicators are normal - the tool has the right to exist.
But troubles lie in wait where they are not usually expected. Even a proven product can be harmful to health if it comes into contact with the scalp and hair for longer than indicated on the label. Or if we are talking about the cumulative effect - the regular use of cosmetics with potentially dangerous compounds.
Therefore, checking the list of shampoo ingredients is a good idea. After all, true beauty is impossible without good health.
Only not this! What components in the shampoo do not belong?
If your product from a couple of drops in the palm of your hand turns into an unusually thick and lush foam, you can assume the presence of this component. It is introduced into shampoos so that the texture is dense and thick, and when lathered, the product lathers well. It would seem that there is a benefit! The shampoo is economical to use. But there is also an alarming moment!
According to scientists, Cocamide MEA is a toxic substance. Experiments conducted by researchers from America have shown that cocamide causes cancer in animals. After lengthy litigation, it was recognized as dangerous and banned from being included in cosmetics manufactured in the United States.
Sodium lauryl sulfate and Sodium laureth sulfate
Sodium lauryl sulfate is considered ideal by the creators of hair cosmetics. This cheap substance is a wetting agent involved in the foam formation process. Almost no liquid soap, shower gel or foam, shampoo can do without it.
Meanwhile, this substance is in the lead in the lists of the most irritating surfactants, the list of which is very large. Sodium lauryl sulfate is responsible for the appearance of dryness and irritation of the skin, can lead to allergies and disruption of the integrity of the skin. Therefore, manufacturers "insure" themselves - "balance" surfactants with components that have the ability to reduce the likelihood of irritation.
As for Sodium laureth sulfate, it is less irritating to the skin, its irritation index is in the range from mild to medium. But to call this substance safe is definitely impossible.
On a note!
Approximately 95% of detergents in the Russian Federation contain SLS. They are most often indicated at the beginning of the list of ingredients. The accumulation of sulfates in the body can lead to cancer, ovarian dysfunction, alopecia (hair loss), eye diseases.
If after applying the product you feel dryness and tightness of the skin, most likely this is the effect of SLS. Sulfates can erode the lipid mantle of the skin, reducing the ability of the epidermis to retain moisture.
It is a popular preservative known for its ability to kill fungus and harmful microflora. It can often be found in the composition of shampoos against seborrhea.
According to some reports, almost 18% of this substance is formaldehyde, the action of which is fraught with DNA destruction and lung cancer. But at the same time, there is evidence that at low concentrations of DMDM hydantoin is safe.
So, in the USA its concentration in shampoos cannot exceed 0.2%, and in the European Union 0.6%. The danger is that you will never know what percentage of dimethylimidazolidine is in your shampoo.
sodium chloride
To the consumer, this substance is known as table salt. In shampoos, it is used as a preservative and thickener. If the concentration of the substance is low, everything is fine - the product is completely safe. But if it exceeds the permissible norm, it can cause dryness and itching of the scalp.
Beauty fact!
You should not buy shampoos with Sodium chloride in the composition if you have a sensitive scalp or regularly perform a keratin hair straightening procedure. In the latter case, the effect will be very short-lived.
This substance is in demand not only in the beauty industry, but also in areas that have nothing to do with it. For example, in industry - in the processing of wood. In shampoo, organic alkali is used to neutralize acids, which is necessary to improve the properties of a cosmetic product.
Scientists warn that preparations with this substance can cause irritation of the scalp, lead to severe allergic reactions. In addition, they destroy everything useful that is in the structure of the hair, for example, keratin. As a result, the curls become dry, brittle and lifeless.
Dimethicone
This is one of the forms of silicone, which is used not only in shampoos, but also in face creams, including children's cosmetics. Dimethicone is needed in order to prevent moisture loss from the skin, to reduce the feeling of oiliness that occurs after applying certain products. And although this component is considered relatively safe, there is a lot of evidence pointing to the opposite.
Doctors have described cases of acne after applying cosmetics with dimethicone. In addition, there is evidence that silicones clog pores, restrict skin respiration, irritate hair follicles, and may contribute to hair loss. Trichologists and dermatologists advise avoiding shampoos and conditioners with this component in their composition.
Thus, on the shampoo label, perfume compositions are indicated that provide the product with a pleasant aroma. Robert Dorin, a certified hair transplant surgeon claims that if you break down one fragrance into its individual components, in the simplest composition there will be several dozen chemicals. And complex aromas can consist of more than 3 thousand components!
However, most aromatic substances are strong irritants. And some can even provoke a disorder of the nervous system.
What is harmful and what is good for our hair? Are shampoos with sulfates really an absolute evil, and oils are a blessing for our hair? Do we need balms and hair dryers with ionizers? We could tell fortunes on coffee grounds, but instead we decided to get the opinion of a person who really understands all these subtleties. Namely, a chemist!
So, our questions are answered Anastasia Shchelkunova, Master of Chemistry in the direction of chemical technology of biologically active compounds . Anastasia is currently involved in the introduction of a drug for the diagnosis of malignant tumors. We took her out for a moment to ask questions about hair care that many girls care about.
Question 1. Everyone around is talking about which Lauryl Sulfate is harmful, but it is added literally everywhere: both in shampoos and shower gels. Why is it harmful to skin and hair?
Sodium lauryl sulfate is known to be a surfactant. Basically, the surface of our skin is contaminated with fat secreted by the sweat and sebaceous glands. Fat does not dissolve in water, so washing without the help of special tools will not work.
The surfactant molecule is an amphiphilic compound, that is, it has both hydrophobic and hydrophilic properties. In simple words, such molecules are able to interact with both water and non-polar molecules (such as fat). If you do not go into abstruse details, then, in fact, the process of washing the head is the following: surfactant molecules interact with head fat, capture it, and then we safely wash it all off with water.
As for the issue of harm, then everything is ambiguous. At the global level, sodium lauryl sulfate is not carcinogenic and embryotoxic, therefore it will not lead to serious diseases and will not spoil heredity. At the household level, it naturally has an irritating effect, and the magnitude of this action depends on the individual characteristics of each person. Someone will react with a strong allergy, someone will not notice. The lower the surfactant concentration and the shorter the exposure time, the better and safer.
From myself: a smaller shampoo, with a 5 ruble coin, lather and rinse with plenty of water. And I personally refused shower gels and use simple soap.
Question 2. Are sulfate-free shampoos healthier than sulfate-free shampoos? or is it bullshit?
The issue of sulfates has been around for a long time. Again, there is no clear answer here. In any case, you need to understand that any shampoo is a mixture of chemical compounds. And if there are no sulfates in some, then there is something else. And you don't know what suits your skin.
From myself: I personally don’t have sulfate-free shampoos at all, my hair looks bad, although I can’t say: I didn’t use all the products I have)))
Question 3. It turns out that washing your hair with household shampoo every day is a priori harmful?
Well, you can wash your hair every day, but the question is, is it necessary? If the hair is not greasy, then it is quite normal in a day. But if the hair is greasy by the end of the day, then this is not very good. It's better to see a doctor. And, of course, use a specialized shampoo, since mass-produced, let's call them that way, shampoos will clog pores even more.
IN survey 4. Does lifestyle affect hair health? For example, here we are city dwellers, we have exhausts here, and the water is hard, but in the villages our hair will be better?
Of course lifestyle has an effect. And the environment is affected. Because the body works as a single system, if there is a failure somewhere, then it is reflected in the appearance in the first place. But do not forget that it is impossible to increase the amount of hair by certain means. Only quality.
Question 5. Tips for softening water. We have very hard water, should we install filters?
Hard water does affect the scalp and therefore the hair. There are also filters against hardness, if it is expensive, you can use boiled water.
Question 6. I can't believe that oils are added to shampoos and hair conditioners. But on my shampoos everywhere in the composition at the very end of the list is Japanese camellia oil. Was it really added to it?
As for adding oils to care products, whether they are in it or not, this is solely a matter of the manufacturer's conscience. But if there is, it is clearly synthetic, since it is simply impossible to use natural oils at the current scale of production. Is that in elite cosmetics and then, not a fact.
Question 7. The mysterious word "extract". What is it and what is it eaten with?
The same goes for the word,extract,. All that is in detergents, and care products too, are synthetic extracts. According to the properties, a substance obtained synthetically should not differ from natural. We buy vitamins in autumn and spring, they are also artificially obtained, and not isolated from vegetables and fruits. There is no unequivocal opinion on this matter.
Question 8. What can you say, as a chemist, about the benefits of vegetable oils for hair?
Purely theoretically, oils act favorably on both the scalp and hair. Oils create a film on the hair that helps retain water, nourishing the skin. However, there are many subtleties here. First, as I said, most of the oils we buy are synthetic. Secondly, when using this or that oil, it is worth considering the characteristics of your body. And thirdly, the correct use of oils is important. They should be used on a clean head, separately from purchased shampoos and masks, because, after all, this is chemistry, and no one will say how substances can react. And oils have the peculiarity of dragging dirt into the pores, so first we clean them, then oil, then cleansing again.
From myself: the best friends of hair so far, as far as I know, are eggs, bread, kefir, herbal decoctions.
In general, there is such a doctor, a trichologist. If there is trouble with the hair, you need to go to him and figure out what is the reason. To treat hair, like skin, it is necessary from the inside.
Question 9. What gives the use of balm?
Now the choice of shampoos is so great that the balm cannot be considered as a kind of marketing ploy. All shampoos are formulated with different pH values, and the balm works to neutralize the action of the shampoo. Let's just say that if the shampoo has an alkaline environment, then after using it, the hair scales remain open. It is necessary to close these scales, remove the remnants of shampoo from the hair. You can rinse your head with a solution of lemon in water or use a conditioner balm. The same goes for acidic shampoos. Each company produces shampoo according to its own formula: the composition may be the same, but the ratio and concentration of the 'ingredients' are different, hence the shampoo of one brand is suitable for someone, for someone else.
Question 10. Shampoo for oily hair, for dry hair - what is the difference between them? By composition? And this beast is especially interesting: “Shampoo for oily hair at the roots and dry at the tips”
By the way, even the Internet is not capable of explaining the beast for both fat and dry people. I think it's a marketing ploy, or is it just an ingeniously smart shampoo that determines the type of hair and acts on the basis of its analysis)))))
Question 11. It is interesting to hear your opinion about hair dryers with ionizers - is it a scam? And if not, how do they work?
Hairdryer with ionizer… I think it really works. The dryer itself is bad for your hair. It overheats them, dries them, and since the hair is essentially a protein, exposure to high temperatures is detrimental to it. In addition, hair is able to accumulate positive charges, which is why it becomes electrified. The ion flow helps to solve these problems: thanks to the negatively charged ions, moisture droplets are crushed and absorbed by the hair, and do not evaporate. As a result, we have hair protection from overheating. Also, due to ionization, the hair is less electrified.
Question 12. Is it true that products for colored hair help to “keep” the color from the hair? Or is it a marketing ploy?
I think that shampoos for colored hair really wash the color out of the hair less. Or maybe even fix it.
© Interviewed by Yulia Safonova
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Hello my dear readers!
For a very long period, I tried various cosmetic hair care products: medical, professional, natural.
I followed a special diet and tried to figure out vitamins for hair.
And in the end, I came to the conclusion that I spent a huge amount of time, money, and even useful products, just in vain.
I especially flew with shampoos, buying something that simply could not solve my hair problems.
It's only now, I finally figured out that 90% of all shampoos are just well-hyped marketing moves.
Most of them cannot stop, enhance their growth and improve their general condition.
Which of them will be absolutely useless for your hair, what can replace shampoo and what should be included in a good hair shampoo.
From this article you will learn:
The composition of the shampoo - components and their properties
So, for starters, let's figure out what shampoo consists of.
The main components of any shampoo:
- Base or detergent (Water and surfactant)
- Special agents that give the shampoo its properties
- Preservatives to ensure long shelf life
- pH Balanced Ingredients
- Dyes, flavors, stabilizers, thickeners, etc.
Most often, when choosing a shampoo, we pay attention to fad number two!
We carefully examine the label and see ingredients such as antioxidants, vitamins, herbal extracts, fruit acids, pearl dust, collagen, etc.
It seems to us that with such a composition, the shampoo simply cannot be useless and will definitely make our hair soft, healthy, strong and shiny!
Alas, this is just another myth (the same as) or another smart marketing ploy.
The main active ingredients of any shampoo
Despite the fact that the shampoo label may say "Moisturizing Shampoo with Proteins, Vitamins, Rosemary, Coconut Oil and Chamomile Extract" the main components of this and any other shampoo will be:
- The basis of the shampoo is a surfactant - a surfactant (detergent or surfactant), which forms foam and washes away dirt from the hair.
They occupy approximately 50% of the main composition of the shampoo, the remaining 50% are shared by dyes, thickeners, flavors, silicones, preservatives, and some other useful substances that you read about on the shampoo label.
Sulfate Shampoo Bases Are the Most Harmful Shampoo Ingredients
As a surfactant, sodium lauryl or laureth sulfate Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate (or ammonium) (SLS and SLES) are most often used in shampoos, which are able to perfectly cleanse hair of grease and dirt and form a strong thick foam.
But, these components have a very aggressive irritating effect on the scalp and a cumulative effect.
By using such shampoos constantly, you will turn your scalp into a very sensitive, dry and irritated scalp, which will constantly itch, peel and secrete sebum in such quantities that you will have to wash your hair every day.
And thanks to all this, your hair will fall in clumps and look just awful.
Good basics
A better and softer replacement for these surfactants are the following basics:
- TEA Layril Sulfate (Triethanolamine Lauryl Sulfate),
- TEA (Triethanolamine),
- Cocamide DEA,
- DEA-Cetylphosphate,
- DEA Oleth-3 phosphate,
- myristamide dea,
- Stearamide MEA,
- Cocamide MEA,
- Lauramide D.E.A.,
- Linoleamide MEA,
- Oleamide Dea,
- TEA Lauryl Sulfate,
- Sodium Myreth Sulfate and sodium myristyl ether sulfate,
- Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate,
- Magnesium Laureth Sulfate,
- Coco Glucoside, Sodium Myreth Sulfate and sodium myristyl ether sulfate.
Shampoos with such bases can cause completely different reactions, what works for one, causes dandruff and itching in another, or dries out the hair of a third.
But, at their core, they are also capable of irritating the skin, so I personally will not buy myself a shampoo with such basics.
In addition, I have already tested most of them on my own head, so if you have dry and sensitive scalp, these basics will not save you.
Best Basics
This usually includes nonionic surfactants and/or amphoteric surfactants. As a rule, they are much more expensive than harmful cheap bases.
They are less foamy than SLS, but perfectly restore the scalp, do not disturb its pH and do not cause irritation.
For myself, I have identified the following good shampoo bases and can confidently recommend them for use.
- Cocoamidopropyl Betaine
- Decyl Glucoside or decyl polyglucose
- Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate
- Sodium lauryl sulfoacetate
- Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate
As a rule, such shampoos are difficult to find in ordinary household chemical stores or the mass market. You need to look for them in organic or professional cosmetics stores.
You will be very lucky if you find a shampoo completely consisting of one of these bases or a combination of them.
Most often they are added as a second component to more aggressive bases to dilute them.
Brands of good shampoos with mild and healthy bases
To a brief description of each of these bases, I have added a link to the appropriate shampoo that contains it.
- Cocoamidopropyl Betaine- very soft and low-allergenic surfactant. It is produced from the fatty acids of coconut oil. It is contained in many shampoos of the company Jason Natural
- Decyl Glucoside or decyl polyglucose- a mild surfactant, consisting of glucose obtained from corn starch, coconut fatty acids. On this basis, the company manufactures its famous shampoos. Avalon Organics And Biotene H-24s
- Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate- natural surfactant obtained by the reaction of coconut and palm oils with sugar and starch. A popular base for baby shampoos, found in products baby spa
- Sodium lauryl sulfoacetate- A natural, mild, safe surfactant derived from sarcosine, a natural amino acid found in fruits and vegetables. Absolutely does not irritate the skin, perfectly cares for the hair and restores its structure. This base is present in the organic shampoos of the company Alba Botanica
Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinatee-Surfactant with mild dermatological action, often used in children's shampoos and shampoos for sensitive scalps. Shampoos on this basis are represented by the brand Nature's Gate
- This also includes organic soap bases made from soap root, soapwort or soap nuts.
Using shampoos on such bases, you can completely restore your scalp, which means that with constant use and proper application, you will provide your hair with a healthy and beautiful appearance.
Of the above, I used the second, third and fifth. And only the third shampoo did not live up to my expectations.
But, here I want to emphasize one important factor, P When choosing a shampoo, be sure to consider your hair type.
Because the shampoo of the same brand, but with a slightly different composition, can affect your hair in completely different ways.
Special agents or other components in the shampoo
These are, as I said, those substances that allegedly fill our shampoo with useful properties.
I want to tell you about those components that can be part of hair shampoos, but at the same time be absolutely useless for them.
useless shampoo ingredients
- Silicones
Designed to smooth the scales of our hair and make them smooth and shiny. that is, when silicone is applied to damaged hair, the scales are smoothed out, the silicone reflects light and the hair begins to shine.
As you understand, no hair restoration occurs, and the accumulated silicones make the hair heavier and spoil it.
- Vitamins and provitamin in shampoos
Those who understand the chemical composition of hair know that it does not contain any vitamins. Therefore, no vitamins from the outside, applied externally to the hair, will in any way affect their condition, through the heads, they will not penetrate there either.
The presence of vitamins in shampoo is useless. you should not pour it on your head, but take it inside and it is best to do this by using healthy natural plant products.
- fruit acids
Very often in the composition of shampoos can be found. It is believed that they moisturize the hair, which is an absolute myth. It is best for hair to consume fruits inside.
- Antioxidants
Unlike our skin, hair does not have wrinkles and is not always an indicator of age.
Applying shampoos with a super antioxidant complex to the hair will not affect the condition of our hair in any way. This is just a useless additive to add value to the shampoo and increase its value.
- Various herbal extracts
Very often we see shampoos that contain extracts of various herbs (aloe extract, birch leaves, nettle, chamomile, etc.)
Their effectiveness will always depend on the amount of these components. If they form the basis of a shampoo (and such shampoos really exist), then it is likely that these components will be able to improve the condition of your hair, but if there are very few of these components (which is most often found in cheap shampoos), then the effect of using this shampoo will be zero.
Pay attention to where the plant extracts are on the shampoo label, if closer to the end, then this shampoo does not make sense to take.
Pay special attention to the fact which extracts will be listed there.
For example, if you see extracts of rose, white magnolia, lotus, and other exotic plants in the composition of the shampoo, then you can be sure that these ingredients are added there in the smallest quantities and only for the inscription on the label. In addition, no one knows what quality these extracts were.
- UV protection
Many shampoos promise UV protection for your hair. .
However, most current research shows that the use of such shampoos provides only minimal protection to the hair from UV rays.
And even if the shampoo may contain such useful components that can somehow affect our scalp or the hair itself (for example, honey, royal jelly, menthol, clay, protein hydrolysates, ceramides, plant extracts, lecithins, vegetable or essential oils), most of them "work" for exactly 2-3 minutes until you wash the shampoo off your head.
Therefore, if you want these components to show their therapeutic effect, do not rinse off the shampoo immediately, but let it work for at least 10 minutes. Especially if the shampoo with the effect of conditioner on natural oils.
CONCLUSION
When you read labels and look at shampoo ingredients, remember that out of all those listed, and there may be more than 30, only 2 or 3 will actually work on your hair.
The rest of the ingredients will determine the shampoo's appearance, shelf life, color and aroma, and simply enrich its composition on the label, forcing you to buy it, spend your money on something that will not affect your hair in any way when used.
Therefore, when buying a shampoo, you should not pay attention to all its rich composition, to the loud name and description, to advertising.
MY SECRET
For more than a month, following the advice of Rickett Gofshtein (a world specialist in the field of trichology), I have completely abandoned shampoos, replacing them with castile soap(which is based on olive, coconut, castor oil and shea butter). And I really like it ☺
It is non-irritating, gently cleanses the hair and lathers well. At the same time, the scalp is restored and its greasiness is regulated, which is the most important factor for hair health.
And this soap can serve as an excellent base for homemade shampoos.
By the way, But has the same effect, I will talk about this in more detail in the following posts.
Choosing a good shampoo is a trial and error process, and what works for one person may be completely useless for another.
But, in any case, when choosing, always be guided by your hair type and the basis of the detergent. Then the search for your ideal shampoo can be reduced several times.
Be sure to watch this interesting video with homemade shampoo recipes that will help restore your hair NATURALLY!!!
I shared my experience with you, and use it or not, decide for yourself ☺
Alena Yasneva was with you, See you again!
Unfortunately, most shampoos, conditioners, balms and hair masks contain ingredients that are harmful to the hair, which can deprive the curls of shine, strength and beauty. And although at first it seems that the hair has become more lively and obedient, this is just a short-term effect. Over time, they may lose their natural strength and become brittle, dry, and dull.
But the worst thing is that harmful substances in cosmetics can affect our body as a whole and, after some time of use, cause allergies, endocrine system disorders and other health problems. Let's analyze the composition of cosmetics and figure out what absolutely should not be in your hair products.
Lauryl and laureth sulfates
These harmful substances in shampoos and conditioners are very widespread. They are surface-active substances (surfactants), which quite often form the basis of hair products. It is thanks to these types of sulfates that shampoos lather well and cleanse hair well.
According to researchers, such components can irritate the scalp and provoke allergies after a long time of their use. They also clog scalp pores, damage hair follicles, and can cause dandruff and hair loss. Alternatives are milder surfactants, such as sulfosuccinates, etherocarboxylates, sarcosinates, betaines.
Phthalates
Phthalates can be used in a variety of hair care products, so it's worth reading the label carefully before buying a new product. Phthalates can cause asthma, infertility and reproductive dysfunction in men. That is why in a number of countries the most dangerous types of phthalates are generally prohibited.
Parabens
Parabens in cosmetics are complex artificially created acids that are an excellent and cheap preservative. It is thanks to parabens that hair products do not deteriorate for a long time and are protected from the effects of bacteria and mold. Parabens can be found not only in hair washing products, but also in styling products.
Scientists have been arguing about the dangers of parabens for quite a long time. According to one point of view, parabens accumulate in the body and can cause problems with the endocrine system and even provoke the occurrence of tumors and cancer. Another group of scientists argues that if the amount of parabens in the product is small, they do not do any harm to the body.
The most dangerous parabens are: propylparaben, butylparaben, isobutylparaben and isopropylparaben. In some countries, their use in cosmetic products is generally prohibited. Various oils can replace dubious parabens: almond, olive, lavender, tea tree oil and argan. But the cost of such funds may be higher, and the shelf life is shorter.
mineral oils
What else should not be in shampoo? Mineral oils are a petroleum product that is considered carcinogenic and can cause cancer. Only highly refined oils are safe for human health, but most hair products use cheaper, unrefined mineral oils.
Formaldehyde
This preservative is quite often used in hair products and cosmetics. It is toxic and can cause reproductive and respiratory problems, as well as dermatitis. The use of formaldehyde in cosmetics is prohibited, but some manufacturers manage to circumvent this norm and sign it as Quaternium-15, Dowicil 75, Dowicil 100, Dowicil 200.
Polyethylene glycol (PEG)
Scientists claim that this thickener, stabilizer and defoamer can cause allergic reactions, acne and dry skin, as well as cause kidney and liver disease. But a number of other studies refute this information and claim that polyethylene glycol is absolutely safe.
Modern shampoo with a complex set of ingredients is a relatively recent invention. A few centuries ago, people washed their hair with ordinary ash, and rinsed it with herbal decoctions. From today's abundance of cosmetics, eyes run up: moisturizing, firming, color-preserving, with vitamins and minerals, with amino acids and silk molecules (silver, pearls). Even a master stylist or trichologist will not immediately select the best option. We will analyze the components in the composition of hair shampoo and consider the functional purpose of each substance.
Main cast. These components are required and are included in the recipe of any shampoo, ranging from inexpensive domestic brands to "promoted" international brands:
- water;
- Surfactants (surfactants);
- preservatives;
- ingredients for additional properties (moisturizing, nutrition, etc.);
- dyes, fragrances, thickeners, etc.
The first two points are directly responsible for “washing” the head - without them there will be neither foam nor cleansing. The share of surfactants and water accounts for 50-80% of the composition. Naturally, it is this basis that determines the quality of the entire product. When choosing a brand, we most often look at advertising inscriptions “contains silver ions” or “with molecules of silk and cashmere”, while silver with silk has a minimal effect on hair.
Types of detergent bases (surfactants)
sulfate. The active ingredient is lauryl sulfate (SLS or SLES). Advantages: forms a thick foam, perfectly cleanses the hair of fat, it turns out an affordable shampoo. Cons: Irritates the scalp. With frequent use, the hair begins to "crumble", dandruff appears, the head itches and quickly gets greasy.
How to Know: The ingredients list will say Ammonium Lauryl (laureth) Sulfate, Sodium Lauryl (laureth) Sulfate
There are milder variations - TEA and DEA, but they also harm the hair, although to a lesser extent.
Soapy or amphoteric. Benefits: does not disturb the pH of the scalp, has regenerating properties. Disadvantages: weak foam, expensive, rarely found in its pure form, more often acts as a second component with a sulfate base.
How to find out: The list of components includes Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Decyl polyglucose, Cocoate Glyceret, Sodium Sulfosuccinate.
Thickeners, Preservatives, Colors and Flavors
Without thickeners, the shampoo will be too runny and uncomfortable to use. This category includes Cocamide DEA, Cocamide MEA, Linoleamide DEA, etc.
Thanks to preservatives, the product is stored for several years and does not deteriorate. This group includes: Parabens, Phenoxyethanol, Methylisothiazolinol, sodium benzoate, DMDM-hydantoin. It is believed that preservatives in shampoo are dangerous, but many of them are completely natural elements, in addition, microorganisms will develop without preservatives, the harm from which will be much more significant.
Dyes and fragrances are optional, but desirable, since it is much more pleasant to lather your head with a thick composition of pearl-milk color and smelling of roses than with water with a sharp chemical smell.
Additional components. This category includes ingredients that are “put out” on the label and take on the role of the USP (Unique Selling Proposition) of the brand, or, more simply, a marketing ploy to increase sales. At the same time, not all of them really benefit the hair and often play the role of a “wedding general” - that is, they have absolutely no effect.
Useless substances in shampoos
- Silicone. Advertising claims that silicone "smoothes" the hair, makes them shine. In fact, if there is an effect, it is very short-lived, but, accumulating, silicone makes the hair heavier, over time the head looks untidy and dirty even immediately after washing.
- Vitamins. It must be taken orally in the form of tablets, there will be no positive result from a five-minute contact with the hair and scalp.
- fruit acids. The same as with vitamins: they are beneficial only when taken directly.
- Antioxidants. The hair does not have wrinkles, which this active substance is aimed at combating.
- plant extracts. They make sense only if their mass fraction exceeds at least 25-30% (this occurs, but rarely).
- SPF and Thermo are components that protect hair from ultraviolet radiation. They act exactly while they are on the hair - that is, 15 minutes in the shower. Draw your own conclusions.
Useful material
- Anti-dandruff components (ketoconazole, piroctonolamine, tar, zinc pyrithione, etc.). Most often they are part of medicated shampoos sold in pharmacies.
- Moisturizing additives (Hyaluronic acid, lanolin, glycerin, ceramides and others).
- Collagen and keratin - restore damaged hair and add volume.
Harmful substances
When you see the following components in the composition, think carefully before purchasing a shampoo.
- Mineral oil (mineral oil). Let the harmless name not confuse you, in fact it is a harmful substance that does not absorb into the skin, but hardens with a thin film and prevents the hair from “breathing”.
- Formaldehydes. There is no consensus on them, but many scientists argue that this substance is unhealthy, it is better to play it safe.
What else can be included in hair shampoos
Read the label carefully. They may meet:
- Ethanol - ethyl alcohol, is needed for better dissolution of additives (in other words, to make the liquid thicker and more homogeneous).
- Sodium Chloride - common table salt, thanks to which the shampoo lathers better.
It turns out that a useful and high-quality shampoo with a minimum content of harmful substances looks unsightly: it is a liquid composition with an unpleasant odor, poorly foaming and washing hair from the second or third time. You can buy it at a pharmacy or professional cosmetics store.