In the old days, clothes not only warmed and decorated, but also spoke about the origin of a person (poor or rich). Naturally, royal and boyar attire differed from peasant attire. Peasants sewed clothes from simple fabrics - linen, wool. And the nobles decorated it with precious stones, beads, and embroidered with gold and silver. A boyar costume could weigh kg.
Russian medieval costume was very different from Western European. The testimonies of foreigners are interesting: “Their men’s clothing is very similar to Greek”, “The cut of clothing is the same for everyone, but they use different materials”, “Muscovites very much criticize short Italian, French, Spanish, German clothing, because it leaves open those parts of the body that should be hidden most of all. They themselves, following the custom of the entire East, dress for sedateness in two or three dresses almost to the toes. They wear their sleeves quite long, so you can’t even see their hands when they do something.”
Spinners The peasants made all their clothes at home. That's what they called her - homespun. Linen threads were obtained from the fiber contained in the stems of this plant. The flax stems were first soaked in water for a long time. When the outer skin rotted, the inside of the stem was dried and then crushed and torn in the yard to get rid of the unwanted part of the trunk. This was done with the help of special devices - a masher and a scissor. After this, the flax was combed with a comb with sparse and long teeth. Gradually, flax tow was obtained - fiber for spinning threads. The tow was spun by hand using a spinning wheel.
In Rus', the main clothing for women was a sundress and an embroidered shirt. They put a soul warmer on top. Often shirts were sewn with very long sleeves and wore them pulled up into a small fold. If the sleeves were lowered, then it was impossible to do any work. Hence the expression - doing it carelessly. Women's clothing
Poneva Paneva (poneva, poneva, ponya, ponka) women's woolen skirt worn by peasant women. Poneva was made, as a rule, from several panels of homespun, often checkered fabric, mainly blue, black or red. In some areas, bells were sewn onto the poneva; according to the peasants, their strumming protected them from evil spirits.
Sundresses could be of different colors: red, blue, brown... At that time, only natural dyes were used for fabric. For example: Yellow color was given - birch, hazel. Green – nettle. Red – St. John's wort. Buttons played a special role in decorating sundresses; they sometimes reached the size chicken egg. Sundress
In the old days, embroidery not only decorated clothes, but also served as a talisman. It was believed that it warded off all misfortune and brought health, luck and wealth. It was believed that the ornament, along with the red color, had a protective effect, which is why it was placed in those places where the clothes ended. At the same time, by surrounding the hand with symbols, the person wanted to increase its strength and dexterity.
Women's headdress Headdress has long been considered an integral part of the Russian national costume. Some sources say that the tradition of obligatory covering of the head has appeared in Rus' since ancient times. Two-horned kick - headdress. XII–XIII centuries Corollas (XI–XIII centuries)
XII century Gold, forging, enamel, pearls Tiara Jewelers made expensive jewelry: earrings, bracelets, pendants, rings, necklaces. They used complex manufacturing techniques - granulation, filigree, cloisonne enamel. At the end of the 11th century. in Rus', the design of the Byzantine ceremonial headdress was borrowed. In the most magnificent princely ceremonial version, this headdress was crowned with a golden diadem. In addition to tiaras, gold and silver headbands-crowns were common, to which pendants-kolts were attached to special threads-cassocks. The headdress was complemented by elegant beaded earrings and temple rings, decorated with filigree and granulation. Jewelers
filigree - an openwork pattern made of thin gold or silver wire, soldered onto metal surface. (bead 12th century) Types of jewelry technology ENAMEL is a durable glass-like coating worn on a metal object and secured by firing. GRAIN - the pattern consisted of many tiny metal balls.
Rings Rings are one of the most common archaeological finds. They were worn by both men and women. The first rings were made of wire, but rings with a shield decorated with precious stones were already called rings. Rings, of course, were worn on the hands, but in burials there are also those that are worn on the toes.
The prince wore a green or red caftan with a border at the bottom and gold sleeves, a blue cloak-basket trimmed with a gold border, on a red lining. On his head is a round hat with a fur band, on his feet are green morocco boots. Only noble people wore such cloaks. All men wore hats because... it was an integral part men's suit. Worn by rich and poor, but the rich had much better hats than ordinary men. Men's princely suit
Commoners wore more modest costume. In Rus', according to custom, only the wife could sew clothes for her husband. This is how they protected happiness and love in their home. A man's suit consisted of a shirt - a blouse - and narrow pants - ports (from the word trousers, tailor). The shirt was belted with a long belt - a sash. The word "shirt" comes from the root "rub" - "piece, cut, scrap of fabric", as well as from the word "chop", which once also had the meaning of "cut". Cloth ordinary people
At the bottom, the pants were tucked into boots made of colored leather or into onuchi (pieces of fabric that were used to wrap the legs), and on top they put on bast shoes, tying them to the leg with special ties - frills. Mandatory accessory old Russian costume there were mittens and a bag - a wicket, which was tied to the belt. Clothes of ordinary people
Children under 7 years old, both boys and girls, wore the same clothes - long shirts with a belt, sewn from the clothes of their parents. They believed that this would protect the child from misfortune. Girls only after 12 years of age were allowed to wear inexpensive jewelry - beads and earrings made of dry berries or fruit seeds and colored ribbons.
More than 500 years ago, Domostroy said about the rules for wearing and storing clothes: “On holidays and in good weather, and in public, you should wear smart clothes, walk carefully in the morning, and be careful from dirt, snow, and rain.” , do not pour drink on it, do not get it dirty with food or lard, do not sit on blood or wet things. Returning from a holiday or from guests, elegant dress Having taken it off, inspect it, dry it, knead it, wipe off the dirt, clean it and put it well where it is stored.”
On the woman: a double shirt with a patterned belt, a cloak fastened with a brooch, pistons On a man: a cloak-basket and a linen shirt with handrails men's and women's clothing ancient Slavs Grand Duke's costumeAfter the adoption of Christianity, Byzantine customs, as well as Byzantine clothing, spread to Rus'.
The Old Russian costume of this period became long and loose; it did not emphasize the figure and gave it a static look.
Rus' traded with Eastern and Western European countries, and the nobility dressed mainly in imported fabrics, which were called “pavolok”. This includes velvet (embossed or embroidered with gold), brocade (aksamit), and taffeta (patterned silk fabric with a pattern). The cut of the clothes was simple, and they differed mainly in the quality of the fabrics.
Women's and men's outfits richly decorated with embroidery, pearls, and trimmed with furs. The costumes of the nobility were made from expensive fur of sable, otter, marten, and beaver, and peasant clothing was made from sheepskin, hare, and squirrel fur.
Men's suit
The ancient Russian wore a shirt and pants (“ports”).
The shirt was straight, with long narrow sleeves, without a collar, with a small slit in the front, which was tied with a cord or fastened with a button. Sometimes the sleeves around the wrist were decorated with elegant ones, made of expensive fabric, with embroidered “sleeves” - a prototype of future cuffs.
Shirts were made from fabric different colors- white, red, blue (azure), decorated with embroidery or fabric of a different color. They wore them untucked and belted. Commoners had canvas shirts, which replaced both their lower and outer clothing. Noble people wore another shirt on top of the undershirt - the upper one, which expanded downward, thanks to wedges sewn into the sides.
Portas are long, narrow, tapering pants that are tied at the waist with a cord called a “gashnika.” The peasants wore canvas portages, and the nobility wore cloth or silk ones.
The “retinue” served as outerwear. It was also straight, no lower than the knees, with long narrow sleeves, and widened at the bottom due to wedges. The retinue was girded wide belt, from which a purse in the form of a bag was hung - “kalita”. For winter, the retinue was made of fur.
The nobility also wore small rectangular or rounded “korzno” cloaks, which were of Byzantine-Roman origin. They were draped over the left shoulder and fastened with a buckle on the right. Or they covered both shoulders and fastened in front.
Woman suit
In Ancient Rus', women with a stately figure, a white face, a bright blush, and sable eyebrows were considered beautiful.
Russian women adopted the Eastern custom of painting their faces. They covered the face with a thick layer of rouge and white, as well as inked eyebrows and eyelashes.
Women, like men, wore a shirt, but longer, almost to the feet. Ornaments were embroidered on the shirt; it could be gathered at the neck and trimmed with a border. They wore it with a belt. Rich women had two shirts: an undershirt and an outer shirt, made of more expensive fabric.
Over the shirt was worn a skirt made of colorful fabric - “poneva”: sewn panels were wrapped around the hips and tied at the waist with a cord.
The girls wore a cufflink over their shirt - a rectangular piece of fabric folded in half with a hole for the head. The zapona was shorter than a shirt, was not sewn at the sides and was always belted.
Festive elegant clothing, worn over a poneva or cuff, was the “navershnik” - an embroidered tunic made of expensive fabric with short wide sleeves.
The Grand Dukes and Duchesses wore long, narrow, long-sleeved tunics, mostly blue; purple cloaks woven with gold, which were fastened on the right shoulder or chest with a beautiful buckle. The ceremonial attire of the Grand Dukes was a crown of gold and silver, decorated with pearls, semi-precious stones and enamels, and a “barma” - a wide round collar, also richly decorated with precious stones and icon medallions. The royal crown always belonged to the eldest in the grand-ducal or royal family. At the wedding, the princesses wore a veil, the folds of which, framing their faces, fell onto their shoulders.
The so-called “Monomakh’s hat”, trimmed with sable fur, with diamonds, emeralds, yachts, and a cross on top, appeared much later. There was a legend about its Byzantine origin, according to which this headdress belonged to Vladimir Monomakh’s maternal grandfather, Constantine Monomakh, and it was sent to Vladimir by the Byzantine Emperor Alexei Komnenos. However, it has been established that the Monomakh cap was made in 1624 for Tsar Mikhail Fedorovich.
prince's costume: patterned fur coat, shirt decorated with a border princess costume: outerwear with double sleeves, Byzantine collar costumes of the prince and princess of Ancient Rus'
Warriors costume
Old Russian warriors on top ordinary clothes They wore short, knee-length chain mail with short sleeves. It was put on over the head and tied with a sash made of metal plaques. Chain mail was expensive, so ordinary warriors wore “kuyak” - a sleeveless leather shirt with metal plates sewn on it. The head was protected by a pointed helmet, to which a chainmail mesh (“aventail”) was attached from the inside, covering the back and shoulders. Russian soldiers fought with straight and curved swords, sabers, spears, bows and arrows, flails and axes.
Shoes
In Ancient Rus' they wore boots or bast shoes with onuchas. Onuchi were long pieces of cloth that were wrapped over the ports. The bast shoes were tied to the leg with ties. Wealthy people wore very thick stockings over their ports. The nobility put on shoes Wellingtons without heels, made of colored leather.
Women also wore bast shoes with onuchas or boots made of colored leather without heels, which were decorated with embroidery.
Hairstyles and hats
Men cut their hair in an even semicircle - “in a bracket” or “in a circle.” They wore a wide beard.
A hat was a mandatory element of a man's suit. They were made of felt or cloth and had the shape of a high or low cap. Round hats were trimmed with fur.
Married women walked only with their heads covered - this was a strict tradition. The worst insult for a woman was to tear off her headdress. Women did not film it even in front of close relatives. The hair was covered with a special cap - “povoinik”, and on top of it a white or red linen scarf was worn - “ubrus”. For noble women, the lining was made of silk. It was fastened under the chin, leaving the ends free, decorated with rich embroidery. They put it on top of the ubrus round hats made of expensive fabric with fur trim.
Girls wore their hair loose, tied with a ribbon or braid, or braided. Most often there was only one braid - on the back of the head. The girls' headdress was a crown, often jagged. It was made from leather or birch bark and covered with gold fabric.
Do you know what women wore in Ancient Rus'? What was a man allowed to wear? What did commoners wear in Ancient Rus', and what did the boyars wear? For these and others no less interesting questions you will find the answers in the article.
What is the purpose of the shirt?
“I know what the background is,” we will say now, having learned the true reason for this or that incident. But in the times of Kievan Rus this meant something completely different. The fact is that clothes were very expensive back then, they took care of them, and in order for the shirt to serve the owner as long as possible, it was reinforced with a lining, that is, a backing, for strength. It can be assumed that this expression acquired an ironic connotation due to the fact that some poor people boasted of rich sewing, but they were given away by the inside, sewn from cheap fabric. After all, the clothes of Ancient Rus' served not only for insulation, but also to emphasize their social status. The shirt was of no small importance here. For the nobility this was underwear; for the poor it was often the only one, not counting ports and bast shoes. In addition, the commoner's shirt was much shorter so as not to restrict movement.
Evil eye ornament
The boyars did not work in the fields, so they could afford underwear that almost reached their knees. But regardless of whether you were poor or rich, your shirt had to have a belt. The word “unbelted” was used in the literal sense, but had an equally negative connotation. In addition, ornamentation on this part of the clothing was very desirable. Its patterns protected against the evil eye and other troubles. Death was a frequent guest in peasant huts. Then “miserable” shirts came into use. White with white embroidery if parents died, and embroidered with black patterns if there was mourning for children. Each piece of clothing also had a ritual significance. When widows plowed the village, preventing it from such misfortunes as cholera or death of livestock, they were bare-haired, without shoes and in snow-white shirts without any decorations.
No matter what occasion the shirts were intended for, they did not have a collar. For the celebration it was replaced by the so-called necklace, which was fastened at the back with a button. This collar would go with any other clothing. And the type of shirt that has survived the longest is the kosovorotka. It appeared back in the 9th century, and was worn until the 20th century. A cloth with a small hole for the head and a cutout on the left side of the chest - that's all. Simple and practical.
The curtain is on the floor
Shirts were rarely worn separately. In the center and north of Rus', a sundress was worn on top, and in the south - a poneva. What is poneva? In Ancient Rus', it was a kind of skirt, only consisting not of one, but of three woolen or half-woolen panels, tied at the waist with a gashnik. This belt was a sign that the woman was married. The color of the poneva was dark, with a red or blue tint, and less often - black. On weekdays, they sewed braid or calico at the bottom, and on holidays they took out ponevs from the chests, the hems of which were decorated with as many colorful embroideries as possible.
Women in those days had a hard time in many ways. Clothing is no exception here. A feature of women's clothing in Ancient Rus' was that over all of the above they put on an apron, which was called a curtain, and the Russian costume was completed with a canvas, woolen or half-woolen shushpan.
Six kilograms on my head
Women's headdresses deserve special mention. In a married woman it could reach six kilograms in weight. The main thing is that this design completely covers the hair. People have long believed that they have witchcraft powers. The canvas base was compacted with hemp or birch bark to form a solid forehead part. This was called a kika, which ended with a cover made of chintz, velvet or calico. The back of the head was covered with the back of the head, a rectangular strip of fabric. In total, such a “hat” could include twelve parts. In winter, a round fur hat could be seen on the Slavic woman’s head, but her hair was completely covered with a scarf. On holidays, a kokoshnik with a bottom made of fabric and a base of hard material appeared on their heads. It was usually covered with gold fabric and trimmed with pearls.
The girls had it much easier. Their headdress in Ancient Rus' looked like a bandage, hoop or crown. If such a rim was richly decorated, it was called a koruna. A rigid, often metal base covered with decorated fabric was fashionable among city dandies. In the villages, girlish corollas were simpler. Men preferred round hats with fur rims. Sheep, arctic foxes and foxes were used for fur. They also wore dried hats and felt caps. Usually their shape was cone-shaped and the top was rounded. They were sewn from linen and wool, and also knitted. Only princes and fellow boyars could afford skullcaps made of sable.
Footwear
The legs were wrapped in a cloth made of canvas or cloth, and on these onuchs they put bast shoes or boots, leather shoes. But the very first leather shoes in Rus' were pistons. They were made from a single piece of leather, which was gathered along the edge with a strap. Bast shoes were very short-lived. Even in the village they were worn for no more than ten days. On city pavements they wore out even faster. Therefore, bast shoes made from leather straps were more common there. Metal plates were often sewn onto them, so that they formed a kind of sandals.
Now most traditional shoes In Russia, felt boots are considered. But in fact, they only appeared in the 19th century and were very expensive. Usually there was only one pair of felt boots in a family. They wore them in turns. Boots became widespread much earlier. They were sewn from leather equally for men and women. The nobility sported boots made of morocco, goatskin soaked in lime mortar and polished with stone, yufti, that is, thick leather, and calf leather. Other names for boots are ichigs and chebots. Shoes that were tied with laces were women's shoes. Heels on them appeared only in the 16th century and could reach 10 centimeters.
From ports to trousers
If we talk about pants, then this word came to Rus' from the Turks somewhere in the 17th century. Before this, leg clothing was called porta-potties. They were not made very wide, almost tight. A gusset was sewn between the two trouser legs for ease of walking. These primitive trousers reached the length of the shin, where they were tucked into the onuchi. For noble people they were sewn from taffeta in the summer, and from cloth in the winter. There were no buttons, and there was no cut for them. The ports on the hips were held in place with a cord. Something similar to trousers in the modern sense of the word appeared in Russia under Peter I.
You can't survive in Rus' without pants
The great importance of clothing among Russians was, of course, determined by the climate. In winter, you can’t go outside without pants, like in Rome or Constantinople. And the outerwear of Ancient Rus' was in many ways different from what was in use in most European countries. When going outside, they put on warm, long suits made of cloth. Their sleeves had cuffs, and their collars had turn-down collar. They were fastened with buttonholes. This is typical specifically for ancient Russian clothing. Richer people brought into fashion kaftans made of axamite and velvet. Zipun is a type of caftan without a collar. The boyars considered it to be their underwear, and the common people wore it on the street. The word “župan” is now considered Polish or Czech, but it has been used in Rus' since ancient times. This is the same retinue, but shorter, slightly below the waist. And, of course, when talking about winter, one cannot help but mention fur. It must be said that fur clothing and its quantity did not serve as a sign of wealth. There were more than enough fur-bearing animals in the forests. Fur coats were sewn with the fur inside. They wore it not only in cold weather, but also in summer, even indoors. You can remember historical films and boyars sitting in fur coats and fur hats.
Old Russian sheepskin coat
One of the signs of prosperity in our time is a sheepskin coat. But the Slavs had similar clothing - a casing - in almost every home. It was made from the skin of goats or sheep with the fur on the inside. Peasants were more likely to see a sheepskin coat, a sheepskin casing. If ordinary people wore shrouds, the boyars preferred to cover them with foreign, expensive material. It could be, for example, Byzantine brocade. Knee-length jackets were later transformed into short fur coats. Women also wore them.
But other types of men's winter clothing of Ancient Rus' are more firmly forgotten. For example, Armenian. It was originally adopted from the Tatars and was made from camel hair. But it was too exotic, and besides, sheep’s wool turned out to be no worse. They put the army coat on over the sheepskin coat, so there was no way to fasten it. Another indispensable attribute of the ancient Russian wardrobe was used: the sash.
One of the oldest Slavic garments is epancha. This is a round cloak with a hood, but without sleeves. It came from the Arabs and is even mentioned in “The Tale of Igor’s Campaign.” Since the 16th century, it became a cape worn on ceremonial occasions, and under the field marshalship of Suvorov, the cape became part of the soldier’s and officer’s uniform. Okhaben was worn by people from the upper classes. After all, it was sewn from brocade or velvet. A special feature of the obhabnya were extremely long sleeves, which were thrown behind the back, where they were tied in a knot. On Easter, noble boyars went to serve in the Feryazi. This was already the height of luxury, royal ceremonial clothing.
Let us also mention such clothes for all classes as single-row clothes. This is a type of caftan, but long-skimmed and with buttons to the hem. It was made of colored cloth, without a collar.
In a robe and fur coat
In winter, fashionistas preferred fur coats with decorative sleeves. They were long and folding, and there were slits above the waist for the arms. Many types of Russian costume were original. An example is the soul warmer. For peasant women it was a festive outfit, and for wealthier young ladies it was an everyday outfit. Dushegreya is a loose, narrow-front garment, rarely reaching mid-thigh in length. It was usually sewn from expensive fabrics with beautiful patterns. Shugai is another type of short, fitted outerwear, reminiscent of a modern jacket. Could have a fur collar. Wealthy city residents wore outerwear made of cotton fabric. In chronicles there is a mention of robes on princely daughters. For commoners, they were apparently a novelty.
From flax and homespun
The fabrics from which clothes were made were initially not very diverse. Linen and hemp were used for body shirts. The outer, overhead outfit was made of wool, and the warm retinues were made of coarse homespun and sheepskin. Gradually, representatives of noble families acquired more and more silk fabrics from Byzantium. Brocade and velvet were used.
Cloak and power
For a long time, a cloak was an obligatory item in the Russian wardrobe, especially the princely wardrobe. It was sleeveless, draped over the shoulders, and pinned with a fibula near the neck. They wore cloaks and smerdas. The difference was the quality of the fabric and the fact that commoners did not use brooches. First of known varieties cloak - votola, made from fabric of plant origin. Both farmers and princes could wear a votolu. But bluegrass is already a sign of high origin. There was even a fine for damaging this cloak during a fight. Several centuries later, bluegrass was more often seen on monks than on urban fashionistas. But chroniclers mention korzno only when they want to emphasize the princely dignity of its owner. Most likely, even the closest boyars did not have the right to wear such a cloak. There is a known case when he saved a person from death. For some reason, the prince wanted to save someone who already had a sword raised over him. That's why I threw a basket over him.
Canvas
What is canvas fabric? Now not every person knows the answer to this question. And in pre-Mongol Rus', canvas clothing was the most common among both the nobility and commoners. Flax and hemp were the first plants to be used for making fabric and clothing, mainly shirts and tailoring. Girls in those ancient times wore cufflinks. Simply put, it is a piece of fabric that is folded in half and cut out for the head. They put it on over the undershirt and belted it. Daughters from wealthier families had underwear made of thin materials, while everyone else had coarser ones, reminiscent of burlap. A wool shirt was called a hair shirt; it was so coarse that monks wore it to humble the flesh.
Will awesomeness come into fashion?
Much of the wardrobe of ancient fashionistas and dandies, slightly modified, has survived to this day, but has become far less accessible. The same well-made casing costs as much as an inexpensive car. Not every woman can afford a fur warmer either. But now hardly anyone wants to wear an okhaben or a one-row suit. Although fashion, they say, is coming back.
How they dressed in the old days Vintage clothing The style of the Russian nobility was generally similar to the clothing of people of the lower class, although it differed greatly in the quality of material and decoration. The body was fitted with a wide shirt that did not reach the knees, made of simple canvas or silk, depending on the wealth of the owner. An elegant shirt, usually red, had the edges and chest embroidered with gold and silk, and a richly decorated collar was fastened at the top with silver or gold buttons (it was called a “necklace”). In simple, cheap shirts, the buttons were copper or replaced with cufflinks with loops. The shirt was worn over the underwear. Short ports or trousers were worn on the legs without a cut, but with a knot that made it possible to tighten or expand them in the belt at will, and with pockets (zep). Pants were made from taffeta, silk, cloth, as well as from coarse woolen fabric or canvas. Over the shirt and pants, a narrow sleeveless zipun made of silk, taffeta or dyed cloth was worn, with a narrow small collar fastened at the bottom. The zipun reached to the knees and usually served as home clothing. An ordinary and widespread type of outerwear worn over a zipun was a caftan with sleeves reaching to the toes. In elegant caftans, a pearl necklace was sometimes attached behind the standing collar, and a “wrist” decorated with gold embroidery and pearls was fastened to the edges of the sleeves; the floors were trimmed with braid and lace embroidered with silver or gold. Among the caftans, they were distinguished by their purpose: dining, riding, rain, “smirnaya” (mourning). Winter caftans made with fur were called “caftans”. Sometimes a “feryaz” (ferez) was worn over the zipun, which was an outer garment without a collar, reaching to the ankles, with long sleeves tapering towards the wrist; it was fastened in front with buttons or ties. Winter feryazis were made with fur, and summer ones with a simple lining. In winter, sleeveless fairies were sometimes worn under the caftan. Elegant fairies were made of velvet, satin, taffeta, damask, cloth and decorated with silver lace. A fur coat was considered the most elegant clothing. Not only was it worn when going out into the cold, but the custom allowed the owners to sit in fur coats even while receiving guests. Simple fur coats made from sheepskin or hare fur; martens and squirrels were higher in quality; noble and rich people had coats made of sable, fox, beaver or ermine. Fur coats were covered with cloth, taffeta, satin, velvet, obyarya or simple dyeing, decorated with pearls, stripes and fastened with buttons with loops or long laces with tassels at the end. “Russian” fur coats had a turn-down fur collar. “Polish” fur coats were made with a narrow collar, with fur cuffs and were fastened at the neck only with a cufflink (double metal button).
How they dressed in the old days Women's outer clothing was a long cloth opashen, which had a long row of tin, silver or gold buttons from top to bottom. Under the long sleeves of the opashny, slits were made under the arms for the arms, and a wide round fur collar was fastened around the neck, covering the chest and shoulders. The hem and armholes of the opashnya were decorated with embroidered braid. Was widespread long sundress with sleeves or sleeveless, with armholes; The front slit was fastened from top to bottom with buttons. A padded warmer was worn over the sundress. On their heads, married women wore “hair caps” in the form of a small cap, which for rich women was made of gold or silk material with decorations on it. Above the hairline, the head was covered with a white scarf (ubrus), the ends of which, decorated with pearls, were tied under the chin. When leaving home, married women put on a “kika”, which surrounded their head in the form of a wide ribbon, the ends of which were connected at the back of the head; the top was covered with colored fabric; the front part of the necklace was richly decorated with pearls and precious stones; The headband could be separated or attached to another headdress, depending on need. At the front of the kick were pearl threads (lower) hanging down to the shoulders, four or six on each side. When leaving home, women put on a brimmed hat with falling red cords or a black velvet hat with a fur trim over the ubrus. The kokoshnik served as a headdress for both women and girls. It looked like a fan or fan attached to a hairline. The headband of the kokoshnik was embroidered with gold, pearls or multi-colored silk and beads. Women and girls of all segments of the population decorated themselves with earrings, which were varied: copper, silver, gold, with yachts, emeralds, “sparks” (small stones). Solid earrings gemstone were rare. Bracelets with pearls and stones served as decoration for the hands, and rings and rings, gold and silver, with small pearls on the fingers.
Paneva Paneva (poneva, ponyava, ponya, ponka) women's woolen skirt worn by peasant women. It is a belt garment made from three or more partially sewn pieces of wool fabric, specially made on a weaving mill. Paneva is an ancient type of women's clothing; it was worn in combination with a kichka and special chest and shoulder clothing. These are clothes mainly married women, girls wore it upon reaching puberty, and sometimes during the wedding ceremony. Panevs vary in cut and color. According to the cut, panevas differ in swing, open at the front or side and with stitching, blind. Both types are characteristic of the regions of southern Russia. In the Smolensk province, among the swing panels, there is a rastopolka, in which one panel is located in front and two at the back, so that both sides are open, and a raznopolka, consisting of three panels of different lengths, of which the short one is located on the right, and a third of the first and third panels were worn with they turned it away with a pin and threw it over the belt.
Sundress Sundress is Russian folk women's clothing. A dress, most often sleeveless. Sundresses varied in fabric and cut. Sundresses were worn in central and eastern Europe. The shapes and styles of making sundresses changed from century to century, from north to south, from peasant women to noble women. In the 14th century, sarafans could be worn by governors and great Moscow princes. The final affiliation women's wardrobe it became only in the 17th century. In Russian villages one could learn from a sundress about social status women and about mood. Russian sundresses consisted of many elements, so they were very heavy, especially festive ones. Slanted sundresses were made from sheep's wool, woven black with a decoction of alder and oak. There was a difference between holiday and weekday sundresses. Festive ones for every day were decorated along the hem with a “chitan” (“gaitan”, “gaitanchik”) with a thin 1 cm braid homework made of red wool. The top was decorated with a strip of velvet. However, not only woolen sundresses were worn every day. Like light, home-style clothing, "sayan" is a straight sundress made of satin, gathered in a small fold along the back and sides. The young wore “red” or “burgundy” sayans, and the elderly wore blue and black. In the Smolensk region, a slanted sundress (except for the general modern name “sundress”), depending on its type, place of existence, cut, material, is called differently: feryaz (“queen”), sukman, sukmanka, sinikin, klinastic, nasovka, polubumazhnik, Chinese (“Titan”)
Shirt In Rus', it was customary to decorate shirts with embroidery in the most “vulnerable” places for evil forces at the collar, along the edges of the sleeves, on the shoulders, and especially along the hem. Embroidery served as a talisman; it was dominated by solar symbols, as well as images of birds, especially roosters, which were traditionally considered guardians, driving away evil spirits. In the 17th and 18th centuries, a border was sewn onto shirts along the hem. In rich shirts, gold braid or gold braiding was sewn along the seams. A shirt without a border was called a cover. IN folk costume there was a shirt outerwear, and in the costume of the lower nobility. At home, the boyars wore a maid's shirt; it was always silk. The colors of the shirts are different: most often white, blue and red (red shirts were worn together with white ports). They were worn untucked and girded with a narrow belt. A lining was sewn onto the back and chest of the shirt, which was called a lining.
Women's headdresses In the general set of women's peasant costume, an important item was the headdress. In the Smolensk region, in combination with the slanted sundress at the end of the 19th century, old, traditional forms of headdresses continued to exist: collections, warriors, kokoshniks, duckweeds, kichkas, magpies, flies, “knight” scarves, silk “punchovki”, shawls... Blanks, individual parts for headdresses came mainly from the neighboring Tver province: from Torzhok - velvet and brocade, forehead covers, embroidered with gold, silver and silk threads; from Rzhev - pearl and beaded duckweeds... These hats were expensive and not everyone had them.
Men's hats Hats played a big role in the costume. In the old days, men's hats were made with a brightly colored velvet top, conical or round in shape, but always with a fur band. Edge of expensive fur or even headphones hallmark princely hats. Over time, the hat became a symbol of a certain social class. That is why they did not take off their hats indoors, when visiting, at receptions, and even in front of the sovereign. The higher the hat was sewn, the more noble the boyar who wore it was. This meaning of the word “hat” is still preserved in the proverb “After Senka and the hat.” Tall hats signified the nobility of the family and rank. When coming home, they did not throw away the expensive hat, but put it on a special device, painted and used as a decoration in the house. It was called a dummy. In the 15th-17th centuries. The hats of the Russian nobility were of four types. Rich people, following Eastern customs, live at home on shaved head They put on a small velvet cap, embroidered with gold embroidery, beads and pearls, like a round or tetrahedral skullcap. It was called tafya or skufya. They wore such hats at home and did not take them off even in church. A special decree of the Church Council of 1551 forbade even rich people from entering the church in tafiyas. Another form of cap was the already known and previously pointed cap. The rich wore caps made of satin, usually white, with a fastened band, studded with pearls, gold buttons, and precious stones.
Onuchi Onucha is a long wide (about 30 cm) strip of fabric of white, black or Brown(canvas, wool) for wrapping the leg up to the knee (when putting on bast shoes). Such strips of fabric were wrapped around the entire foot and lower leg. Onuchi, if they were worn with short shoes or without it at all, they were tied to the leg with leather turns or frills of rope or bast, knitted or wicker. The first were used on weekdays, the second (usually white or red) on holidays. The frills were tied crosswise or in coils around the leg. Usually in summer they wore canvas (linen or hemp fabric) onuchi, in winter they wore cloth ones ( wool fabric plain weave) and canvas together.
Lapti Lapti are low shoes, common in Rus' in ancient times, but, nevertheless, widely used in rural areas until the 1930s, woven from tree bast (linden, elm and others) or birch bark. The bast shoe was tied to the leg with laces twisted from the same bast from which the bast shoes themselves were made. Bast shoes were worn with foot wraps (onuchs). From the bast shoe up and around the shin, in the manner of an ancient Greek sandal, there was a bast cord, which at the bottom was attached to the shank of the bast shoe and kept the footcloth from unwinding. Nevertheless, when walking for a long time, I periodically had to change my shoes and rewind my stray footcloths. Weaving bast shoes was in Rus' winter activity peasants when there was no field work. The preparation of bast was carried out at a certain time summer time years, when bast had the necessary strength characteristics. New, freshly woven bast shoes were made one last at a time and in a pair they did not differ from left to right. A pair of bast shoes was enough for a man for no more than a week. Hence the saying: “To go on the road, weave five bast shoes!”
Boots The footwear of wealthy people consisted of boots, chobots, shoes and boots. They were made from soft goat leather and morocco. Boots were also made from thick leather yuft and calfskin leather. Just like fabrics, leathers were dyed in different colors. The materials for princely shoes were velvet and brocade. Pointed chobots and turned-up ankle boots with heels. Boots were worn to the knees, and they served as protection for the feet, so they were lined with soft canvas. In the old days, boots were without heels and had a soft sole with several layers of leather and a pointed toe. Later, a heel appeared and a saying was made: “A nightingale will fly from under your sock, but an egg will roll around your heel.” The heels were attached with iron or silver staples, and the soles with nails. The front of the boot was usually higher than the back, and the seams were located on the sides. Shoes were cut for one foot, since the lasts with which the shoes were sewn did not distinguish between the right and left boots. So they said: “Two boots are a pair, and both left leg" Therefore, new boots took a long time to break in. Boots were made in black, and green, and yellow flowers, but most often red. The edges of the tops of rich boots were trimmed with braid, strips of bright fabric, not to mention embroidery: even pearls could be seen on the boots of the most noble ones. The boots were quite expensive. For one pair of boots in the 15th century. it was possible to change 7 pounds of rye flour or 16 kg butter. Therefore, most often rich people made shoes at home, for which they kept experienced shoemakers as slaves.
NECK JEWELRY In the burial mounds of the Smolensk region, necklaces made of beads and sometimes metal pendants are quite common finds; the most common beads are glass gilded or silver-plated, barrel-shaped or cylindrical; pendants were moonlights, round plate or openwork pendants, bells, and occasionally, drilled animal fangs; Of greatest interest are pendants in the form of a plate ridge, the body of which is usually decorated with a circular pattern, since over 80% of such decorations were found on the territory of Krivichi.
Just as in its dwellings and buildings Ancient Rus' revealed a lot of original taste and correspondence with the surrounding nature, so it was also original in its clothing, although it borrowed a lot from other peoples, especially from the Byzantines in terms of expensive fabrics and decorations. The main clothing consisted of a linen shirt or shirt and a narrow underdress tucked into boots. A “retinue” or “casing” was put on over the shirt. It was a dress with more or less long sleeves, usually falling below the knees and belted. The warriors and merchants wore a cloak over their retinue, called “korzno” or “myatl” (i.e., a mantle), which was usually fastened on the right shoulder to leave the right hand free. Among ordinary people, shirts and retinues, of course, were made from coarse linens and woolen fabrics; and the rich wore thinner cloth and often silk. Noble people, boyars and princes, used expensive imported fabrics for their retinue, such as Greek pavoloks of various colors, blue, green and especially red (crimson, or scarlet). The hem was trimmed with a gold or patterned border; the lower part of the sleeves was covered with golden “handrails”; the satin collar was also golden. Sometimes buttonholes made of gold braid were sewn onto the chest; The leather belt or sash of rich people was decorated with gold or silver plaques, expensive stones and beads. They wore boots made of colored morocco and often embroidered with gold thread. The richest people used the most expensive fabrics, especially oxamite. It was gold or silver fabric imported from Greece, embroidered with multi-colored silk patterns and patterns, and very dense. A rather high hat, or, as it was called then, a “hood,” among noble people, had a top of colored velvet and a sable edge. It is known that the princes did not take off their hoods even during divine services. IN winter time There were, of course, fur clothes in use, the rich wore expensive furs, and the common people wore lamb. The very word “casing,” in all likelihood, originally meant the same thing as our “short fur coat,” i.e., a retinue made of lamb fur. A warm woolen retinue, or fofudya (sweatshirt), was also in use.
The luxury of the attire was expressed most of all in various expensive jewelry and pendants. The most common and ancient decoration of Rus' were hryvnias, or metal hoops. Initially, the word “hoop” apparently meant a bracelet or rod, bent into a spiral and worn on the hand. "Grivna" was a hoop worn around the neck or mane; for the poor it is simply twisted wire - copper or bronze, and for the rich - silver or gold. Often found among other antiquities, Russian hryvnias of very elegant workmanship come across. In addition to the hryvnia, they also wore necklaces, or monistas, around the neck, which consisted either of twisted wire or of a chain with various pendants. Of the latter, the most common were: metal and enamel plaques ("tsats"), a likeness of a horse lowered onto the chest, composed of plates and rings (probably what is called a "knuckle" in the chronicle), and in Christian times, a cross. Also worn metal rings on the hands (“wrists”), spherical metal buttons, buckles for fastening, rings, etc. In addition, the Russian princes had barmas in their formal attire, i.e. a wide mantle, embroidered with gold or lined with pearls, expensive stones and gold plaques with different images on them.
The women's outfit was distinguished by an even greater abundance of decorations; Among them, the first place was occupied by various necklaces, beaded or made of colored glass beads, while among the poor, simply from ground stones. Women's necklaces, or monistas, decorated with coins were especially common; what were the coins obtained from different countries, but most of all silver oriental money. The predilection for metal hoops went so far that in some places women once wore ankle bracelets or a ring on their neck. thumb legs. Earrings were in general use; Even men had them (usually in one ear). Most regular form The earrings consisted of a ring of curled wire with three balls placed on it, copper, silver or gold. Women's headdresses were also lined with beads or pearls, and hung with coins and other pendants. It was the custom for married women to cover their heads with a “povoy” (povoin). Above we saw evidence of how luxury increased especially among women with their passion for expensive clothes. In the 13th century, a chronicler, recalling the simplicity of life of the ancient princes and warriors, says that the latter did not place gold hoops on their wives; but their wives wore silver. Luxury was also expressed in expensive furs. The famous ambassador of Louis IX to the Tatars, Rubrukvis, noticed that Russian women wore dresses lined with ermine at the bottom.
As for hair and beard, Rus', after the adoption of Christianity, obviously submitted to Greek influence in this regard; she abandoned the habit of shaving almost her entire head and beard, leaving her forelock and mustache. In the images we see her already quite long hair and with a beard; only young men are depicted beardless. However, the custom of shaving gradually waned. Thus, images of princes in manuscripts and on coins of the 11th century have a short-cropped beard; and at the end of the 12th century we see they already had a long beard, according to at least in the north (image of Yaroslav Vladimirovich in the Church of the Savior-Nereditsa).
The armament of Ancient Rus' was almost the same as that of other European nations in the Middle Ages. The main part of the weapons were swords, spears, or sulitsa, and bows and arrows. In addition to straight double-edged swords, sabers were also used, that is, with curved eastern blades. Axes, or battle axes, were also used. It was customary among the common people to carry a knife, which they wore either in their belt or hidden in their boot. Defensive weapons, or armor, consisted of: iron armor, mostly chain mail, and sometimes plank armor (“paporzi”); further, an iron helmet of a funnel shape with a chain mail mesh around the neck and a large wooden shield, covered with leather and bound with iron, wide at the top and tapering towards the bottom, moreover, painted in the red color (scarlet) beloved by Russia. The spiral hoop mentioned above probably served not only as decoration, but also as protection for the hand. Noble people had gold or silver gilded hoops. (As indicated by the well-known oath of the senior Russian squad at the conclusion of Igor’s treaty with the Greeks.) The best, expensive weapons were obtained through trade from other countries, from Greece, Western Europe and the East. Thus, “The Tale of Igor’s Campaign” glorifies Latin and Avar helmets, Lyatsky sulitsa, and calls the swords “Kharaluzhny,” that is, made of eastern blued steel. The princes and boyars had weapons decorated with silver and gold, especially helmets, on which the faces of saints and other images were often minted. Sometimes a fur cover, or “prilbitsa,” was put on the helmet. Tulas (quivers) that held arrows were also sometimes covered with fur. Saddles and horse harnesses were decorated with metal plaques and various pendants.
The stirrups of the princes, apparently, were gilded (“Step into the golden stirrups, Prince Igor,” says “The Lay”). Horseback riding was already in general use because it served as the main means of land transportation; on “stakes” (that is, on a cart) and on sleighs they transported heavy loads, as well as women, infirm people and clergy. It is curious that sources do not mention a bow in the composition of horse harness; the driver sat astride a harnessed horse; as evidenced by some drawings in manuscripts of that time.
Sources for the study of Russian clothing are ancient frescoes and manuscripts, such as especially: the Kiev-Sophia, Spas-Nereditsky, Staraya Ladoga frescoes; manuscripts: Svyatoslav's collection, life of Boris and Gleb, etc. Manuals: Sreznevsky "Ancient images of the holy princes Boris and Gleb" (Christian. Antiquities, ed. Prokhorov. St. Petersburg, 1863). "Ancient images of Vladimir and Olga" (Archaeological Bulletin. M. 1867 - 68). “Ancient images of Prince Vsevolod-Gabriel” (Information and notes on little-known monuments. St. Petersburg, 1867). Prokhorov “Wall iconography of the 12th century in the Church of St. George in Staraya Ladoga” (Christian. Antiquities. St. Petersburg 1871) and “Materials for the history of Russian clothes” (Russian Antiquities. St. Petersburg 1871). Further, for a visual acquaintance with the decorations of Russian clothing, a rich material is presented, a variety of metal objects obtained by excavating burial mounds or accidentally found in the ground. In some places, by the way, the remains of the fabrics themselves have been preserved. From the many notes about these finds, I will point out: “About the grand ducal decorations found in 1822 near the village of Staraya Ryazan.” St. Petersburg 1831. For the same finds, with drawings, see Kalaidovich’s letters to Malinovsky. M. 1822. Gr. Uvarov about metal jewelry and pendants found in the Meryan land (“Meryans and their way of life” in the Proceedings of the First Archaeological Congress. What the author refers to here as the Varangians, we consider a misunderstanding and attribute to Rus'). Filimonov "Ancient decorations of grand ducal clothes found in Vladimir in 1865." (Collection of Moscow. About. Old Russian art. 1866). About the same Vladimir treasure, see Stasov (in Izvestia of St. Petersburg. Archaeological. Ob. T. VI). By the way, Mr. Stasov notes that the remains of silk clothes found are distinguished by patterns of the Byzantine style, and gold and embroidered ones have figures of fantastic animals woven in silk of the same style and correspond to the same sculptural images on the Dmitrov Cathedral in Vladimir (130 pages). This article is supplemented by a note by the Vladimir archaeologist Tikhonravov (ibid. p. 243). He says that in the sacristies of the Vladimir Assumption Cathedral are kept scraps of princely clothes taken off when their tombs were opened. By the way, in the tomb of Andrei Bogolyubsky, silk material was found with patterns woven on it, herbs and lions facing each other, which are completely similar to the sculptured images of lions on the outer walls of St. Demetrius Cathedral. N. P. Kondakova "Russian Treasures". St. Petersburg 1906. Here about barmas and other decorations of princely clothing. His "Image of the Russian princely family in miniatures of the 11th century." St. Petersburg 1906. Here are described 5 Byzantine miniatures found in the Codex Gertrude, or handwritten Latin psalter, located in Lombardy. The author believes that these miniatures were executed in Vladimir-Volynsky shortly before the untimely death of Prince Yaropolk Izyaslavich, whose mother, a former Polish princess, bore the Catholic name of Gertrude. For comparison, the images on the walls of Kiev-Sof are given. Cathedral and Spas-Neredits. ts., miniatures from Svyatoslav’s collection, etc. Maksimovich explained the word “fofudya” by the Greek fabric from which caftans with belts, or “fofoudates” were sewn (his Works III. 424). And he explained the word “prilbitsa” with a fur hat (ibid). See about this word in my Historical writings. Vol. 2nd. There is also my note about the custom of princes to hang their clothes in churches, regarding the question of the “Golden Gate” of the Vladimir Assumption Cathedral, the Type of Kyiv earring, see Archaeological news and notes. 1897. No. 3, p. 74. Prozorovsky “On utensils attributed to Vladimir Monomakh” (Western Department of Russian and Slavs. Archeology. III. 1882). For Russian princely life, the study of Prof. Anuchin "Sleigh, boat and horses as accessories of a funeral rite" (Antiquities of Moscow. Archeology. Ob. XIV. 1890). His "On the forms of ancient Russian swords." (Proceedings of the VI Archaeological Congress. Vol. I. Odessa. 1886).