A belt is an important accessory that can completely change the look and decorate even the simplest clothes. They create style and definition The tone of the outfit is: businesslike, casual, romantic, daring, playful. Fashion for belts changes as often as for clothing. But despite their a huge variety is distinguished by only 3 main types: soft, which I tie T on a knot, figured and hard with a buckle- belt.
The belt should go well with the clothes in color and style; unfortunately, it is not always possible to find a suitable accessory on sale. You can sew a belt yourself; it’s not difficult and much cheaper than buying a ready-made one.
How to make a belt with your own hands with a buckle?
Making a belt with a buckle will require a lot of time and patience from you, but sewing it is not difficult. It can be made from thin leather or a high-quality substitute, and it will also need to be sealed using hard non-woven fabric or a special lining-seal for belts. Moreover, the lining must be cut without seam allowances. There are 2 main ways to make buckle belts:classic and accelerated. To make a belt you will need: fabric, leather or dermantine 15 cm longer than the circumference of your waist, a padding lining of the same length, a buckle.
Let's first consider the classic method of making a belt. Cut out 2 strips of fabric, their width should be equal to the width of the belt you want to get, and their length should be equal to the waist circumference plus 15 cm. You should also take into account the seam allowances, optimally 0.5-0.7 cm. You need to cut from the lining stripes with the same length and width as the belt only without seam allowances. When all the parts are cut out, iron the interlining or a special seal for the belts onto the outer part of the product from the wrong side.
Baste the allowances on the cuts of the outer part to the wrong side along the edge of the seal, as shown in the figure. The allowances at the corners should be slightly tucked. Also baste the allowances on the cuts of the inner part to the wrong side. Now iron both pieces and then fold them so that the wrong sides are on the inside and pin them together with safety pins. Stitch the belt from the front side along the edges, while also grabbing the inner part.
The accelerated method is somewhat different from the classic one. To make a belt, you will need 1 strip of fabric or leather, the length equal to the length of the belt with allowances for seams, and the width should correspond to double the width of the finished product. The sealing lining is equal to the length of the finished product and the width of one part of the belt; seam allowances do not need to be taken into account.
Fold the strip of fabric lengthwise and in half, with the right side on the inside. Then start stitching down the longitudinal sections. Fold the garment so that the seam is in the middle, and iron the seam allowances. Now move on to processing short cuts. Stitch the edges of the waistband to the desired shape. For convenience, you can use a template for the ends of the belt.
Then trim off the seam allowances, leaving a few mm. Cut the allowances at the corners of the waistband at an angle, and make notches at the rounded corners. Next, turn the product right side out and iron it, paying special attention to the ends and edges. Paste into I With the lining with the adhesive side facing the seams, iron the waistband with the lining. Final stage- stitching the product along the contour.
Sewing the buckle and covering it with fabric. Make a small hole 3 cm from the free edge of the belt and cut out a circle using a hole punch or an awl. Finish the hole with a buttonhole stitch and thread a peg through it. Wrap the jumper with the end of the belt and baste it to the wrong side of the belt with an oblique or zigzag seam, and then topstitch. Punch blocks on the opposite side. One of them should be at a distance around the waist, and all the others should be at intervals of 3 cm.
Buckles covered with fabric look beautiful; this method will also help in cases where you cannot find a suitable one in the store. To cover the buckle with fabric, you can use the same material as for the belt itself or something else. First, cut out 2 pieces of fabric that correspond to the size of the buckle plus allowances for stitching. If the fabric is thin, then seal its outer part with non-woven fabric, ironing it on the wrong side. Fold the parts right sides inward, mark the outer contour of the buckle with chalk or a simple pencil. The inner contour must be marked with a line of small stitches. Cut out the fabric inside the stitching, leave a seam allowance of about 5 mm around the perimeter, and notch the corners.
Cut the piece of fabric close to the stitching using short sections for the jumper. Then turn the piece right side out and put it on the buckle. The seam should be on the inner edge of the buckle. Now cut the part of the fabric that you cut for the jumper, adjusting it to the width of the buckle and glue it with special fabric glue, and then sew it crosswise to the bottom. The stitches should not be visible from the front side. At the corners, cut the bottom of the fabric and tuck it in, then wrap the edges around the buckle, fold it over and hem it with small stitches on the side of the inner seam. Make sure that the stitches are not visible on the right side of the waistband.
DIY wide belt : manufacturing
This belt is called “Obi”; it can be sewn from fabric, leather or suede. This belt model looks very elegant and luxurious. First of all, you need to measure your waist circumference and prepare the necessary materials. To sew an obi belt you will need: any fabric, leather, dermantine or suede, interlining and a printed pattern (pictured). Pattern scale—1 square corresponds to 2.5 cm of the product, the pattern includes seam allowances of 0.5 cm. Belt pattern details:
- Detail of the middle part of the belt with a fold.
- 2 side parts of the product.
- 2 tie pieces- with a fold.
- 2 parts for a brush.
First, make tucks in the front part, matching the points that were transferred from the paper pattern. You will need to sew stitches along the pintucks using a sewing machine. The fabric cuts on the sides must be overcast by hand or with an overlocker. You can also glue the side edges with the thinnest non-woven fabric, ironing it on them.
The sections of the side part of the product must be covered with a hem seam.
Connect the side parts of the belt with the middle one, folding the side part with the central part, right sides inward. In this case, the side cuts should be aligned evenly. Now the parts can be stitched together and the new seam pressed, the cut should be smoothed to the side of the product. Machine stitch along the front side, departing from the edge approximately 5 mm. Make sure that the stitching and the distance from the edge are even throughout, otherwise the work will look sloppy. The stitching will not only serve a decorative function, it will also strengthen the side seam.
Now you need to start processing the ties. Fold the seams back to back on both sides and fold them in half, then topstitch along the long side on the right side. Also sew 2nd tie. fold it up three times along the long edge and under fire part. Then the product iron and fold the rest. Further stitched on a sewing machine.
Place one free end of the tie into the narrow part on the side to a depth of at least 2 cm. Then stitch the edge, connecting the parts of the product. Do the same with the second tie.
Decorate the free edges of the ties with tassels as shown in the photo. To make the tassels hold more firmly, secure them with machine stitching.
How to sew a belt according to your body shape?
The figured belt is made according to a special pattern and exactly matches the shape of the body. It can be wide or narrow, and just like a belt with a buckle, it is reinforced with a padding lining or non-woven fabric in several layers. The algorithm for making this product is similar to sewing a belt. A figured belt can be strengthened with inserts similar to those inserted into corsets. It is made of fabric, wool or leather.
DIY belt: video
It’s easy to sew a belt with your own hands,and even someone who has never had sewing experience can cope with this task. Start by doing models with ties, and then move on to more complex types of belts and figured belts. It is easiest to sew a belt from soft and thin fabrics; working with leather and dermantine requires some sewing skills.
A belt is an important accessory for both women and men. It will decorate both formal trousers and an evening skirt. But an indicator of good taste and sense of style will not be an ordinary belt, but a leather belt. It’s difficult to do it yourself, but the result is worth it. After all, such a thing will be truly unique, and therefore priceless.
Briefly about how to make a leather belt with your own hands
A very unusual and impressive belt made of vegetable tanned leather. You can superimpose a drawing on it, which is initially printed on a printer and then transferred to tracing paper. This material is relatively durable and can be used more than once. If you draw on the glossy side, the image will turn out three-dimensional, although this is not an easy job.
When embossing, you should never wet the entire belt with water; only the part that is currently being worked on should be wet. Any small stamps you have on hand will be suitable for the background. After the embossing is done, the belt should be left to dry for at least a day.
Where the skin will bend, it needs to be made twice as thin. The same goes for where the buckle attaches.
Product processing
Before you start painting, you need to punch holes and sequentially process the ends. First with a hammer, then with sandpaper, and then with saddle soap. After the product has dried, it is coated with bone oil in one layer. Thanks to it, the belt will become softer and acquire a “light tan” shade.
To make the drawing seem brighter, it would be good to paint it with contrasting paint. After the paint has dried, the belt is once again treated with oil and after that with a finish.
Lastly, holes are made with a punch and treated with oil.
Simple Leather Belt
Before you sew a leather belt with your own hands, you need to prepare the materials. You don't need that many of them.
- Leather tape.
- Dublerin or any other lining fabric.
- Pattern paper or regular tracing paper.
- Adhesive suitable for leather.
- Threads and needles.
- Iron.
Colored leather belts are always in trend, so you can experiment with shades. A bright leather belt will ideally highlight your waist and complement your look. It is quite possible to make such an accessory with your own hands.
Manufacturing technology
First you need to measure your waist. Add another ten centimeters to the resulting centimeters so that the belt is not flush. Next we move on to the pattern, which should be twice as long as the planned length of the finished product. The width can be anything, but it’s worth remembering that the pattern requires an allowance on both sides. It is better that it is about two centimeters. If the belt should be ordinary, then the pattern will look like a simple, even ribbon. The edges can be either straight or rounded.
Now the leather is attached to the pattern, this can be done using pins and needles. Next you need to cut it out. It is almost impossible to do this with ordinary scissors. Of course, it would be ideal to purchase a furrier’s knife for this, but if this is not possible, then you can use a scalpel or, as a last resort, a new razor blade.
Belt assembly
The dublerin is also cut using the same pattern. Only here it is necessary to leave without allowances. Clearly in the shape of the belt. After this, the lining fabric must be applied with the sticky side to the skin and ironed. In order for these two parts to stick together well, you need to wait until the workpiece has cooled completely.
The allowances that remain on the leather part are carefully folded inside out and fixed with special glue.
After this, the workpiece is bent in half and secured with pins. Now it needs to be stitched up. To do this, you must either have a special sewing machine or purchase certain needles for a universal device. You can use decorative stitching, but do not forget that handmade work is valued above all else. Although making leather belts with your own hands is hard work.
Belt finishing
It's just a matter of fittings. This refers to the buckle and various decorations. Although you can fasten the belt with buttons, hooks and even buttons and loops. And in some cases even lace is suitable as decor. It all depends on the flight of fancy. So it’s quite possible to make any leather belt with your own hands. You don't have to be a master to do this.
Tip: to make an ordinary buckle more interesting, you can tie it with multi-colored threads, cover it with bright fabric, or simply cover it with braid.
You can make a purely women's leather belt with your own hands. It's not that difficult. You need to prepare a narrow strip of flexible leather, high-quality scissors and a standard sewing kit.
We remove unnecessary things
You need to decide how long and wide the belt will be and cut off unnecessary parts. Since the belt will not have a buckle, but will be tied with a beautiful bow, then, accordingly, the leather ribbon should not cover the entire waist. It’s better to remove ten centimeters from each edge. It would not hurt to overcast the edges of the belt using a sewing machine.
Preparing tapes
There will be ribbons on both ends of the belt. And you need to immediately decide on their length. This determines what the bow will be like. It is worth noting that a beautiful lush decoration is obtained with a ribbon length of sixty centimeters. The fabrics need to be folded crosswise in half, and then their width should be slightly wider than the strip of leather. This is a reserve for allowances. That is, there should be two strips of the same length on the table, the width of which is twice as large as the main belt. Now these pieces of fabric need to be folded in half lengthwise with the wrong side facing out and the edge stitched.
Next, using a pencil or other device, turn out the ribbons. To make the edges look finished, you need to make a small seam, stepping back a couple of centimeters from the edge with which the tape will be attached to the skin. All that remains is to stitch the fabric to the main belt. And that’s it, the wonderful accessory for your evening look is ready. Making such a leather belt with your own hands is not at all difficult.
Types of weaving
When you see woven leather products, it takes your breath away. They look quite elegant and expensive. It seems that in order to make such a thing you need to be a real master. Is it so? Is it possible to make a woven leather belt with your own hands? The answer is yes. It’s very possible, you just need to be patient.
Today we will look at the two most popular and least complicated weaving methods.
This requires a long strip of leather. Without touching the edges, you need to divide it into three narrow strips. We fix one of the ends that remains intact on the work table. We pull the lower end well, and then we pass the first tape - the strip - between the second and third.
The first tape should lie on the second, and then it is pulled between the second and third. We throw the third ribbon over the first, and the second over the third. The tip of the weaving must be pulled back again and again passed between the second and third ribbon. And so on until you reach its logical conclusion. The diagram below will help you understand how to do this.
If the belt is purely feminine, then it would not be a bad idea to decorate it with beads or rhinestones. A decorative buckle won't spoil the look either. But if a man will wear the belt, then it is better not to add any details to such weaving at all. Otherwise, it may look clumsy and tasteless.
A very useful method. It is widely used in the east. In this way, you can weave not only a leather belt with your own hands, but also a horse harness or a handle for a bag, for example. This is not a simple weave; it can be used to firmly connect two leather bands without using metal clamps.
First you need to prepare two long strips of leather. It is better that they are not too wide. Using a blunt awl, mark the edges of the slots.
There are two important secrets for this weaving:
- The distance between the slots should be equal to the width of the strip divided by two.
- The first tape has one more slots.
In order to make slits, it is most convenient to use a chisel. Using the same tool you can sharpen the edges of the ribbons.
In your left hand you need to take the strip on which there are more slots. Moreover, the hand should have the edge on which there are no holes. The nearest slot needs to be widened; you can use a screwdriver for this. The short tip of the second strip must be inserted into this hole so that the slots are at the bottom.
The short end of the second strip is attached to the side of the first strip. Then the procedure is repeated in reverse: now the first tape is passed into the nearest slot of the second tape. And from the bottom up. And according to this principle until the end. The bottom band must be passed through the top band at all times.
A genuine leather belt is quite expensive and it is not always possible to buy it. In this case, you can try to make a leather belt for jeans or a decorative elegant strap for a dress with your own hands. This is much more profitable than buying a new belt, and most importantly, to make a belt yourself you don’t need many tools, and the leather can be used from old things. You just need to learn how to make holes in the belt and carefully place metal fittings.
In this article we will show you how to make a regular men's belt. We will offer several options for decorative design of belts, and also give many useful tips when working with genuine leather, which will help you make a beautiful belt with your own hands.
1. What can you use to make a belt for trousers and jeans?
In this article we offer a version of the belt that is the most common and easiest to implement. This belt is used for a belt with belt loops for men's trousers and jeans. It’s not difficult to do, but it’s important to choose the right quality of leather. It should be hard, durable and at the same time elastic.
Belts are made from saddle cloth, yuft, and shoe leather. Thin leather is not suitable for sewing outerwear. Therefore, it is best to buy a factory-made belt blank in a store, in the form of a cut strip. Here in these photos you can see what such a belt looks like.
You can also use leather removed from the tops of old women's boots. In this case, the belt tape will have to be increased, since the total length of the belt blank should be 110-120cm.
Depending on the thickness of the leather, the belt is made with or without lining. Only leather is used as a lining; it should not be made from fabric. If the belt is sewn from two layers of leather, then the lining needs to be cut 2 - 3 mm wider than the main tape. Both parts of the belt are glued and after the glue has dried, both edges of the belt are sewn off with strong threads. After this, the excess lining is cut off with a shoe knife.
In addition to leather, you will also need a number of tools. First of all, you need a sharp shoe knife. If you don’t have such a knife, you can buy a stationery knife with replaceable blades, just extend the blade 1-1.5 cm and no more. Otherwise, you may break the blade and get injured.
You will need a special punch with several attachments for different hole openings. Again, it can be replaced with a punch of a certain diameter. For the punch you will need a hammer and a stand (a piece of dense wood). However, you will need a hammer in any case, since you will use it to install rivets (holniten).
A belt loop should be installed next to the buckle. You can make it from thin leather or buy a ready-made metal bracket along with a buckle.
Before punching holes, be sure to place marks and make sure that they are exactly in the center of the punch. The slightest shift will be immediately noticeable on the belt, but it will no longer be possible to correct this error.
There is no particular difficulty in using the punch; you just need to make sure that it does not cut deep into the tree. It’s better if you also place a piece of unnecessary leather on the wooden surface, then the punch blade will not quickly become dull. However, sharpening it is not difficult at all. This is done on an electric sandpaper or an emery stone using rotational movements in a circle.
Rivets are used to connect the folded edge of the belt. They come in different types, but for home use it is best to buy holniten, since they consist of two parts and therefore are quite easy to install.
By the way, they are “riveted” with a hammer, however, the lining under them should not be wooden, but metal, for example, the side of a large hammer. In a factory setting, the holnitenes are installed on a press, but at home you can get by with this primitive method. You just need to note that the spherical surface will become flat from hammer blows, but given the cost of the press, this nuance can be ignored.
This is what a belt made with your own hands from a factory blank looks like. Agree, it’s too simple and not very attractive.
The belt will look much more attractive if you decorate it with a beautiful carved pattern and additional fittings.
Additionally, the belt will be decorated with a beautiful, original-shaped buckle.
However, even an ordinary nondescript belt can be easily changed in appearance if you use various kinds of stains and tint creams. They will change the color of the skin, and special pastes will make its surface smooth and shiny, more attractive. In stores you can buy wax and paraffin, designed specifically for polishing the surface of a genuine leather belt.
Don't forget also that there are special aerosol dyes in cans. They can also be used to decorate the surface of a belt.
How to make a woven women's belt with your own hands. This leather belt can be made from old leather clothes.
When installing accessories on leather clothes, difficulties always arise. Buttons and blocks bend, buttons do not hold, etc. To help you correctly install buttons and belt pulleys with your own hands, we have prepared an article with the recommendations of the wizard.
How to make leather lacing for steering wheel braid. The technology of sewing a cover for a car steering wheel with your own hands.
We offer you several ways to quickly and easily make a phone case with your own hands from genuine leather.
Not every craftsman can replace a zipper on a leather jacket, even in a workshop. In addition to a special machine for sewing leather, you need to know the technology of working with leather, have special tools and devices. But, if the jacket costs less than the cost of repairing it, then you can try replacing the zipper yourself. Some tips on how to sew leather correctly can be found in this article.
How to sew pillow letters with your own hands. In this article you will learn how to make a three-dimensional letter pattern and the technology for sewing such a decorative pillow.
In this article, the studio technologist gives many useful tips that will be useful to you when sewing Roman blinds with your own hands.
In order to sew fur mittens you do not need a lot of fur, and the fur can be taken from old clothes, for example from the collar of an old coat.
In most cases, especially for small tablets, you can make a protective case yourself.
Belts are always popular. They give a new sound, personality and completeness to your outfit. They are worn with dresses, suits, coats. Try to do DIY belt– it’s not difficult at all.
Fig.1
Old items made of natural or artificial leather are suitable for this.
If the material is thick enough, then the belt does not need to be duplicated. It is better to duplicate thin leather with thick fabric, grosgrain tape or non-woven fabric.
Here are some ideas for original belts (Fig. 1), the diagrams of which are presented in Fig. 2. One square = 2.5 cm. The length of the belt should be increased in accordance with your waist size.
Belt with duplicating material. Option 1. If the fabric for the belt does not fray, it is dense enough, but not very thick. Before cutting, you can glue a strip of interlining to the wrong side of the belt material, then cut out the belt without seam allowances. The belt will look better if it is topstitched with decorative stitching.
2 options. Lined belt. In this case, add 0.5 cm to the seam allowances. Cut out the belt parts from the main material, then from interlining and duplicating materials. Glue the interlining to the waistband. Place the pieces right sides together, baste, and sew, leaving a small area at the back of the waistband for turning out. Turn it right side out, sweep out the waistband, and iron from the lining side. Make a decorative delay (by machine or by hand), remembering to sew up the turning hole.
Clasp. Several options can be offered:
- We select a suitable buckle (or make it ourselves), and make eyelets (holes for the pin) in the workshop. If it is not possible to make eyelets, we sew small loops by machine or by hand. 
Fig.2
Since in these models the clasp is at the back, you can use:
- buttons
- hooks and loops
- buttons with loops
- sew on the tape with Velcro fastener
I think your imagination will tell you a lot of interesting options on how to make DIY belt!
Can be made fashionable DIY belt. To do this, you will need a rope, preferably unbleached or colored braided cord - silk or cotton. And also pieces of some bright leather, for example, red or black, or in the color of the product for which you intend to make a belt. 
To do this, you can use old unnecessary gloves or bags. The leather will cover the sloppy ends or joints of the rope and decorate the belt.
This belt can be worn with jeans, a denim skirt, or a skirt made of any fabric, especially plaid.
How to make one like this DIY belt is clear from the diagram in the figure.
To create a fashionable item, you need very little. For example, to implement the idea of a belt with flowers 
Fig.1
(Fig. 1) You don't even need a sewing machine! It's done like this DIY belt very fast and simple. The flowers are cut out using a template from leftover colored leather and placed on a thin finished strap.
You will need a ready-made narrow belt, pieces of colored leather.
Description of work 
Fig.2
The “flower” motif is shown in Fig. 2 (1 cell=1cm). We transfer the motif onto tracing paper and make a template from cardboard. From pieces of leather we cut out 7 motifs according to the template. On each motif we make 2 cuts according to the markings. The length of the cut depends on the width of the strap. We string the motifs onto the belt, distributing them evenly. To prevent the motifs from moving, you can secure them with rubber glue.
Very quickly you can make one like this DIY belt and update your wardrobe.
Based on materials from Burda magazine.
Double benefit! Thigh DIY belt made of velor pigskin with a zippered pocket can serve not only as decoration, but also as a wallet!
Length 76-80-84-88 cm.
You will need: 
- natural suede
- interlining N 410
- 1 metal zipper 40 cm long
- 1 buckle height 6 cm without peg
- 2 punching buttons
Cut:
- 2 right outer parts 2.5 cm wide and 43 cm long
- 1 right inner part 6 cm wide and 43 cm long
- 2 left parts, 6 cm wide and 50-54-58-62 cm long
All allowances are 1 cm:
Pad:
Iron the spacer to the parts of the belt from the wrong side
Sewing:
Place a metal zipper on the front side of each right outer part of the belt and alternately stitch it to each longitudinal section of each part, close to the teeth.
Turn the seam allowances and zipper tape inside out. Sew the right outer parts of the waistband along the seams of the metal zipper by 7 mm.
Sew one left side of the waistband to the right outer part of the waistband at the bottom end of the zipper. Sew the second left part of the belt to the right inner part of the belt.
Open the zipper. Fold both parts of the belt right sides together and bevel the left edge. Stitch oblique short cuts and longitudinal ones. Cut seam allowances close to the stitching, at the corners - diagonally.
Turn the belt inside out and stitch along the cleanly turned edges at a distance of 7 mm. Thread the straight right end of the belt into the buckle 2 cm and stitch.
Suede DIY belt will always be an original and unique addition to your outfit!
DIY belt: corsage belt
The corsage belt is the new favorite of the most avid fashionistas! This pinstripe model is able to introduce an ordinary white blouse to the current dandy style. Execute this DIY belt It won’t be difficult; even a novice dressmaker can handle it.
Length 70-74-78-82 cm.
To work you will need: 
- thin striped fabric 0.45 m wide 150 cm
- interlining N 250
Paper pattern: According to the drawings (Fig. 1), make paper patterns for the front and back parts of the corsage belt in full size.
Cutting: - front part of the corsage belt with a fold - 2 parts
- back part of the corsage belt 4 parts
- 2 ties 110-115-120-125 cm long and 4 cm wide, ready to measure 2 cm
Allowances for all seams and cuts are 1 cm. 
Interfacing: duplicate the front and back parts of the bodice with interfacing.
Sewing: Fold each tie lengthwise and sew cleanly along the longitudinal and one of the short edges. Stitch the ties to the edge, baste the open ends of the ties to the outer back parts of the bodice belt between the cross marks.
Sew the outer back parts of the belt - bodice to the outer front part, and the inner back parts - to the inner front part. Press seam allowances. Place the outer and inner parts of the corsage belt face to face and stitch the outer edges, remember to leave an open area for turning the corsage belt inside out in one of the seams.
Turn the corsage belt inside out, sweep it out, iron it, and sweep up the open seam area. Sew the corsage belt to the edge and along the contour.
Corsage belt - another idea how to make DIY belt.
Fabric obi belt
easy to sew yourself. The offered model is made of fabric.
For sizes 46-54
To work you will need: 
Fabric scraps:
- middle part – 70 cm x 70 cm
- side parts - 75 cm x 30 cm
- ties - 80 cm x 20 cm
- non-woven fabric, for example, H 200 – 65 cm x 20 cm.
Doing the work: On a piece of fabric (70 * 70) on the wrong side, draw the middle part (drawing in Fig. 1) of the obi belt with all the markings. Allowances – 1 cm on all cuts.
Transfer the marking lines (folds, folds) onto the face using running stitches.
Place folds and iron along the arrows. Place the piece wrong side up.
Cut out a rectangle 65 * 16.5 cm from non-woven fabric.
Place the interlining with the adhesive side on the wrong side of the middle part on top of the folds, while aligning the longitudinal cut of the interlining with the fold lines of the front part.
Iron the interlining and let the fabric cool.
Make a paper pattern (Fig. 1) for the side part obi belts.
Take a flap 75 * 30 cm, cut 4 side parts from it. All seam allowances are 1 cm. It is better to duplicate the 2 side parts with a gasket. 
Fig.1
From the flap for ties, cut 2 ties 8 cm wide and long:
-: for size 46 - 60 cm
- for sizes 48 - 64 cm
- for size 50-68 s
-, for size 52-72 cm
- for sizes 54 - 76 cm.
Fold each tie lengthwise, face inward, and bevel one end. Stitch the edges together, leaving the straight end of the ties open.
Unscrew the ties, sweep and iron.
Baste the open ends of the ties to the short edges of the side pieces obi belts. Fold the side parts in pairs without ties and with ties, facing inward. Sew short and long sections. Turn out the side parts.
Baste the side parts to the middle part, 2.5 cm away from the fold line.
Fold the middle part along the fold line, face inward, stitch the edges. At the same time, do not forget to round the corners (see drawing of the belt pattern). Leave an open area of about 10 cm in the middle of the longitudinal seam.
Turn the middle part of the obi belt inside out and sew up the open area by hand.
will add an oriental touch to your outfit.
Based on materials from the magazine "Burda"
Leather obi belt 
Traditionally Japanese obi belt used for women's and men's clothing. It is worn over a kimono or keikogi. There are many variations of obi belts.
This luxurious black belt model is made of the finest nappa leather.
For sizes 40-48
To work you need: 
- nappa leather;
- glue for leather or textiles.
Cutting and sewing: Make patterns for the parts of the obi belt from paper - drawing in Fig. 1. Copy the pattern for the middle part of the belt from the drawing, cut out both parts of the pattern and glue along the middle line.
Place the pattern pieces on the back of the leather and draw the outlines of the pieces with a pencil and a ballpoint pen.
Important: Do not forget seam allowances of 1 cm
Fig.1
Cutting details: middle part - 1 piece
side part - 2 parts
ties - 2 parts.
Sew the side parts to the middle part, and the ties to the side parts. Turn the seam allowances inside out along the entire contour of the waistband and glue them with textile glue.
fits tightly to the figure and perfectly completes an Asian-style outfit.
DIY buckle
- a decorative element that should look beautiful and impressive.
If you don't find one that matches your belt buckles, cover any buckle with fabric, but do not cover the vertical bar.
How to cover a buckle with fabric 
Fold two pieces of fabric (if the fabric is thin, reinforce the outer part with non-woven fabric) right sides together and mark the contours of the buckle with tailor's chalk or pencil.
Sew a fine stitch along the inner contour. Cut the fabric inside a small rectangle, leaving a seam allowance of 0.5 cm, cut the seam allowance diagonally in the corner.
For a vertical strip, cut one piece of fabric to the line (1). Turn the part inside out and place the buckle between the layers of fabric, with the seams matching the inner contour of the buckle
Cut a piece of fabric with slits for the vertical strip to the width buckles and glue with textile glue or sew with a velvet seam to another flap, and the seam should not be visible from the front side of the fabric. Turn the corners of the second flap to the wrong side and cut off. Then turn this flap over buckle, turn over and sew with small stitches over the inside seams (2). On the outside buckles these stitches should not be visible.
How to sew a buckle with a pin From the open straight end of the belt, measure approx. 3 cm and punch a hole for the peg buckles. Overcast the hole along the entire circumference with a buttonhole stitch (3). Insert the pin into the hole. 
Turn the end of the belt onto the inside of the belt and sew it with overlock stitches (4) or overcast the edges with a zigzag stitch and stitch the end of the belt (5). At the other end of the belt, punch the blocks: one - in exact accordance with the waist circumference, and the rest - at intervals - approx. 3 cm.
Blocks can be made in a workshop (usually a metal repair shop). You can make the blocks yourself by purchasing a kit in the store and using the included instructions. I prefer to make blocks in the workshop - it has a more marketable appearance.
Other options for wrapping a buckle A round buckle can be covered with leatherette or leather tape, thick threads of the desired color (burgundy buckle in the photo at the beginning of the article) and simply crocheted. 
Hard belt
Its name speaks for itself. For such a belt, a pattern is always given and it is necessarily reinforced with a special rigid gasket (for example, Schabrackeneinlage). You can also iron interlining H 250 in several layers.
A rigid belt made of fabric is sewn like a regular belt, with the only difference being that to speed up the sewing process, you can fold the belt parts right sides together and stitch the longitudinal sections, leaving the straight short sections open.
and a belt, made by yourself, will decorate your new thing.
Leather belt with rhinestones 
Stripes of leather and satin ribbons take on a festive look thanks to sparkling decorative rhinestone braid. Leather beltь is wrapped twice around the body, the braid at the front is sewn on by hand. This eye-catching item will add an elegant touch to your suit.
Length leather belt 74-78-82-86 cm. 
- a piece of genuine nappa leather
- decorative braid with rhinestones 11 rows wide, 30 cm long
- interlining N 250
- satin ribbon width 3.5 cm and length 1.60 m
- glue for textiles
Cut: Cut a belt from nappa leather with a total length of 103-109-115-121 cm and a width of 16 cm without allowances.
Pad: Duplicate the belt with a spacer on the wrong side.
Sewing: Turn the longitudinal sections of the leather belt inside out to a width of 2 cm and glue them with special glue.
Cut the satin ribbon in half. Place one end of each piece of tape on a short cut leather belt in the middle and stitch, indenting 2 cm and to the edge.
Turn the ends of the belt inside out to a width of 2 cm and glue.
try it on, place a braid with rhinestones on its front end and sew it on by hand.
Model from Burda magazine
Several months have passed since I discovered a new hobby - creating things from leather.
That's right, Passion with a capital P. And despite the fact that I have already made enough progress in this business and acquired tools, materials and skills, and moreover, I opened a store, created my own brand and the hobby began to generate a stable income, I still remember my first steps, mistakes and discoveries. How I scoured the Internet in search of bits of information and tried to understand from photographs exactly how this or that product was made, how I discovered the basics of the craft and the feeling of pride with which I looked at my first finished product...
Now it's time to share information. So I’ll try to tell you how I made this belt.
I want to make a reservation right away: the methods and techniques that I used are the way I did it - this is not the only possible way. Surely something can be changed, improved or replaced.
Your advice, comments and questions will be gratefully received. And if this report inspires anyone, then this will be my greatest reward.
So, let's begin.
Masterclass - Men's belt made of genuine leather with embossing and hand-painting.
Stage 1 - Preparation
The first and most important thing is the material - good and high-quality cattle leather. The ideal option is a piece of saddle cloth - part of the skin along the ridge. It is the strongest and least susceptible to stretching. And since, as planned, our product will be embossed, it is necessary to use vegetable tanned leather.
I used a strip 40mm wide and 4.5mm thick. You can buy a blank or if you have
I cut my workpiece from a half-skin from Argentina, of amazing quality, using a special Strap-cutter tool - it’s easier and faster - but you can easily cut it with a knife and a ruler (you just need to have a little skill). You can also easily purchase a ready-made, cut piece. Which may be a little more expensive, but if you don’t plan to make a lot of belts, then you don’t need to invest in the material. Vegetable tanned leather is quite expensive - my half-skin cost 11,000 rubles, and a strip can be bought for 800 -1000 rubles
After the strip is cut, we need to prepare it for embossing. To do this, you need to wet the skin. The easiest way is to immerse it entirely in a container with water (room temperature).
As soon as the bubbles stop coming out, we take our future belt out of the water and let the excess water drain. Then we roll the workpiece, put it in a plastic bag and put it in the refrigerator for a day or two. This is necessary so that the moisture is evenly distributed to the skin. It is important that the bag is not hermetically sealed and excess moisture evaporates - leave a small gap so that the skin can “breathe”. As a result of this lying in the refrigerator, the humidity of the belt will automatically adjust to the desired state and we can proceed to further steps - marking and embossing.
Stage 2 - Marking
We prepared our belt, soaked it and kept it in the refrigerator for several days. Now you can take it out and apply markings. This drawing is very simple - a cage. so I used a ruler and a metal stylus (a needle with a rounded end). If the design is more complex, then you can print it on paper, attach it to the belt and simply trace it with a pencil. The skin is so pliable that all your lines are simply imprinted.
And so that these lines do not get lost during embossing and to emphasize the contour, we trim it with a special rotary knife to a depth of 1-1.5 mm
In principle, at this point the marking stage can be considered complete. While we were making the markings, our skin had dried a little, the front surface had acquired its original color, but at the same time the skin was still wet (if you touch your cheek it feels cool to the touch) and this is an ideal state for embossing. Now here’s some advice - since further embossing will take some time, so that the leather does not dry out completely, you can wrap it in film (stretch) and open it gradually by 10-15 centimeters.
Stage 3 - Embossing
Embossing is best done on a solid, smooth and durable surface. A granite or marble slab is ideal for this. We also need a mallet (wooden or rubber - weighing 300-500 grams) and leather stamps.
In this case, only one Beveler was used - it has one edge beveled and this allows us to slightly lower the edge of our drawing at the contour.
The Beveler should be placed vertically and lightly hit it with a mallet; the penetration will be organized on its own. Then we move it a few millimeters and hit it again with a punch... and so on along the entire contour. And to get a weaving pattern, we simply deepen it in different directions for different faces of the cells
and so on gradually until the very end. This takes several hours of pure time, but no one is stopping you from dividing the work into several stages. Between stages, store the workpiece in a tightly sealed bag in the refrigerator. Since we wrapped the strip in film, it does not dry out and can easily be stored for a month or more.
When the entire pattern is completely extruded, our belt begins to take on the appearance of a product. Leave the workpiece overnight until completely dry. After which you can proceed directly to making the belt.
Stage 4 - pruning
Cut the desired length and trim the end. I use a regular cardboard template that I made myself.
We mark the holes where future holes will be - just prick them with an awl. Again, this is easier to do using a template.
then we punch the holes with a punch. You can use a round one of the required diameter, but for thick belts, I prefer an oval one - so that the belt does not bend so much when the tongue is inserted into it, and it also looks better.
The skin is thick and it took a lot of effort to punch holes.
IMPORTANT POINT - if you plan to paint the product with penetrating dyes, then the holes must be punched after you paint the belt, otherwise the paint will pour into the holes and you will have an ugly blot on the back side.
But I painted in places and only tinted with Antique paste. so I punched the holes in advance
Also marks the location for installing the buckle and punches the installation hole for the tongue using an oval punch
Then personalization - since I was making a monogrammed belt, I wet the end of the belt a little and embossed the initials of the future owner using 1/2 inch tall letter stamps
Then, using fine sandpaper (120 and 140), I leveled the end of the belt
and applied (displaced) a decorative edge
And the last operation of this stage is to thin the tip of the belt that will attach the buckle. Using a sharp enough utility knife, cut off half the thickness of the skin.
Like this
Our product has almost become a belt. All that remains is to paint it and bring it to its final form.
Stage 5 - coloring
According to the plan, the pattern on the belt should imitate weaving. Using embossing, we gave it a relief, now we will tint the squares as if woven into vertical stripes of leather of a darker tone.
I used an alcohol based penetrating leather dye. It was purchased at a shoe store called simply “rust.” And despite the fact that it was very affordable, the quality turned out to be quite good. You can use any like this
I recommend using gloves (so that later all your hands are not the color “rust”). Using a thin squirrel brush, we begin to carefully paint over the squares in a checkerboard pattern.
Painting is a very simple procedure and does not take very long, but the paint still evaporates and smells strongly, so work in a well-ventilated area
At first I dipped the brush directly into the jar, but the smell was very strong, so I decided to gradually pour a small amount into another container. I decided to use a regular school palette for paints. Using a pipette, I poured a little into one of the compartments and, if necessary, added a couple of times. It turned out to be a wonderful solution: the consumption is less, the smell is less, and it is much more stable on the table.
Very useful technique, I will actively use it
After painting the cells, I brushed the paint around the perimeter - for this it turned out to be more convenient to use a cotton swab. This is what happened as a result
The next step will be tinting and in order not to stain the inner surface, I sealed it with masking tape.
For tinting I use Cordowan antique paste. I ordered this paste from a Japanese online store. applied with a toothbrush - the hard bristles of which allow you to paint over all the indentations
put a little on the brush
and rub evenly over the surface, painting each cut
Antique paste is a water-based dye, but it is very thick - it does not penetrate the skin so deeply and does not dry out so quickly. While the paste is not completely dry, remove excess with a dry cloth.
If necessary, you can reduce the intensity of the color by moistening the cloth a little. Using antique paste, we did two things at once - we tinted the entire surface and emphasized the embossing relief. Next, wait until it dries completely and polish with a dry soft cloth, remove the tape from the back side and you can proceed to the next step.
Stage 6 - end processing
The processed end is a very important component of the appearance of the product. If the end is not processed and polished, then the belt looks like a cheap craft.
First you need to cut off the corner of the edge. To do this, we use a special tool - an edge cutter (totsbild).
It can be used to cut an edge on one side
and on the other
I used an edge cutter with a semicircular profile with a radius of 2 mm
Having walked along the perimeter on both sides, we got an almost round end. In theory, you can process the end with sandpaper, while I didn’t have such an edge cutter, I used a wooden block and sandpaper to round the edges, but this is very labor-intensive and still difficult to do as neatly and evenly
Now let's smooth it and polish it (using water and a smoothing iron (slicker)
apply a little water to the end with a sponge (it’s even better to moisten it with saddle soap, but if you don’t have it, or you will treat the end with additional compounds, then you can just use water)
And using a smoothing iron we polish the end.
The difference is already visible, and sometimes that’s enough, but we’ll go further
for final processing of the end, you can use wax-based pastes or use Tragant Gum - this is a special composition (by the way, it is even used in the food industry) it fills all the pores but remains elastic. It was purchased from the same Japanese online store.
Apply a small amount evenly to the entire surface of the end and
and go through the slicker again.
There is very little left to do - install the buckle and cover the entire belt with the finishing coat.
Stage 7 - installation of fittings
Due to the fact that the painting was partial, we already made a hole for the buckle in the previous stages. But most often it is at this stage, after finishing all the painting, that we would mark and punch all the holes.
The buckle will be attached using rivets (holniten) - that is, we need to attach the buckle and punch three more holes
44.
To make the fastening neat, we will additionally glue it.
I used Desmokol cold activated polyurethane adhesive. But you can use any contact adhesive suitable for gluing skin. Let's coat the gluing areas and wait 10 minutes.
Then carefully assemble the buckle and install the holnitens. I used a hand press - but you can also do this with installer's pliers.
And if there is neither one nor the other, you can use ordinary belt screws.
To ensure that the gluing area was completely even, I held it in the clamps for 5 minutes
Stage 8 - finishing coat.
This is the very last stage. Our belt is completely ready. The finishing coating will simply give it additional protective properties.
First, I rubbed the entire belt with hoof oil—it really is oil—which used to be used to soak the leather to give it protective properties. I bought this jar at a store that sells horse tack.
You need to apply just a little on the inner surface and let it soak evenly. This is a little for warming up - so that the belt becomes flexible. Here you can carefully go overboard. This is how I do it: apply it to a cloth, touch it along the entire length of the belt in increments of 5-10 cm and rub out the blots. Let it soak evenly (it’s best to leave it overnight)
I also lightly wipe the front surface
When the oil is completely distributed, cover with any finisher. For belts, I prefer to use Risolin - Flieings resolene (it is also water-based) and creates a smooth, thin, glossy film that will protect the belt from fading, abrasion and also give it water-repellent properties.
The cost is difficult to determine, since I used tools and professional means that are expensive in themselves. Without them, it either didn’t work out at all, or the work took several times longer.
I hope that this masterclass was useful to you.
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