Putty polyurethane foam inside. How and with what to putty the mounting foam so that it is not damaged by UV rays

Plastic and metal-plastic windows are becoming more and more common today, although some twenty years ago they could be called a real curiosity, available only wealthy people. Everything is changing and modern world New technologies are being introduced more and more, and mastering them, learning how to correctly perform certain actions, correctly install, and then care for structures, is already our direct task if the laurels of the present home handyman give no rest.

In fact, there is nothing complicated, but, for example, how and with what to cover the foam after installation plastic windows Anyone can figure it out if necessary. Let's clarify a few nuances and present some options that will greatly simplify the task and allow you to cope without outside help professional master, whose services, as you know, are not cheap at all.

Causes and consequences: how to seal foam after installing plastic windows

Everyone knows that when installing any plastic structure, and now similar technologies are used when installing wooden window frames, a material such as polyurethane foam is used. It is quite convenient, sold in special packaging, from which, using a special gun, through a narrow spout, it is applied to the surface where it is required. However, the question of how to putty foam around a window sometimes confuses many, since it tends to expand and crawl far beyond the limits that are allotted to it. But in fact, this is not a problem at all, because even a child can cope with the task.

It is important to know

When thinking about how to cover the polyurethane foam on the outside of the window, as well as on the inside of the structure, it is worth knowing that in fact, polyurethane foam is also a sealant, from the subgroup of polyurethane foams. However, it also contains stabilizers, foaming agents, and other additives, such as catalysts, which give it unique properties. The main indicators by which foam for installation is evaluated are its viscosity, primary as well as secondary expansion, viscosity, adhesion, that is, adhesion to surfaces, as well as the final output volume.

It turns out that in order to figure out how to seal the foam on the outside of the window, you will first have to figure out what this very foam is, and most importantly, what risks and threats can be dangerous to its functionality. Moreover, the foam can be in the form of a mixture with one component, but two-component compositions also exist on the market. For a better understanding, it is also worth saying that polyurethane foam can also be summer and winter, professional and household, and so on. When thinking about how to cover foam on plastic windows, you first need to pay attention to why this is done, whether it is for purely decorative purposes or whether it needs to be done for some other reason.

It is clear that nothing ideal has yet been invented by mankind, therefore polyurethane foam needs protection from environmental influences. It does not tolerate regular and constant exposure to moisture very well, but from ultraviolet radiation, that is, direct sun rays, it can generally crumble into dust and ashes.
If you need to understand how to close the polyurethane foam on windows, especially from the outside, you should think about ensuring that precipitation does not fall on it. Flowing into large pores frozen foam, under the influence of frost, the water will inevitably freeze and, consequently, expand, tearing your insulating material. Therefore, it is advisable to use waterproofing.
It is also important to protect the foam from penetration of moisture from the inside, which is especially dangerous in winter, in the form of condensation. That is, it is definitely worth installing a vapor barrier from the inside of the window, since the market is full of a wide variety of materials.

The appearance of the window, with the installation seam open to all winds, also simply does not look aesthetically pleasing, the window will be sloppy and untidy, and the whole design will go to hell, and this is another reason to look for and figure out how to seal the mounting foam on the windows inside and outside .

How and with what to remove polyurethane foam from a plastic window: starting from the beginning

True, you need to start with something slightly different, because first you will have to figure out how to wash the mounting foam from plastic windows, since it holds quite tightly, sticking to the double-glazed window itself, and even more tenaciously, to the plastic profile of the window frame. It is clear that it would be optimal to remove the foam before it completely dries, but if the moment is missed, then you should not be upset either, since a true craftsman will always find a way out of a difficult situation.

When asked how to clean plastic windows from polyurethane foam, the easiest way to answer is before she freezes. Most simple means will be a banal rag, slightly moistened with a regular paint solvent, for example, acetone. Simply remove the foam with a scraper, if possible, and wash off the rest with a cloth.
Another simple option for removing polyurethane foam from plastic windows is the use of special solutions that are intended for washing mounting guns. However, you need to act carefully here, since these compounds can damage the glossy surface of the window block frame profile.
A product with the surprising name “Cosmofen” will do the job well, but it is not sold in small quantities. That is, you will have to spend quite a large amount on a substance that you may no longer need.

There are also a wide variety of special-purpose removers on the market, for example, Macroflex, which do their job perfectly. However, even here there are a wide variety of nuances, which is why real professionals recommend first making sure that the product will not damage the plastic. Simply wipe an inconspicuous area of the window frame with the solution and wait a few minutes. If everything is in order, then you can start cleaning; otherwise, it is better to abandon the idea.

It will be somewhat more difficult to cope if the foam has already hardened significantly and become hard. However, even in such circumstances there is no need to be upset, because there is always a way out. You can try to soften the material using some solvents, and only then try to wipe it off. In addition, true masters use generally simple methods, purely mechanically scrubbing off the foam using a cut piece of plastic. Due to its hardness, it will not be able to damage the frame profile, but the foam will be cleaned off quite easily.

You can also simply cut off the remaining foam with a knife, if possible, so as not to damage the surface, and then wipe vegetable oil or the notorious pharmaceutical product for joint pain, called "Dimexide". Also, as an option, with wooden surfaces You can remove the polyurethane foam using regular sandpaper, but then it will take a long time and you will need to restore the coating, so you should think a dozen times before starting work.

How to cover construction foam on windows: how to achieve optimal results

In view of all of the above, since everyone wants to maximize the service life of window units, the question of how to hide the mounting foam on PVC windows so that neither moisture, nor the sun's rays, nor frost or heat can damage it becomes very relevant. Moreover, in fact, there may be several answers, and everyone is free to choose exactly the option that he likes most, and also seems simpler and more accessible to implement. The only thing that is undeniable is that all this will have to be done quickly, so as not to change the entire structure later, which will cost much more.

The most popular method of sealing an assembly joint with protruding foam is ordinary cement-sand plaster. Such a seal will be cheap, but it cannot be called the best, since freezing and leakage are possible, and therefore condensation may occur, which in turn can cause fungus or black mold to appear on the walls.
There is also the option of sealing polyurethane foam using special sealing compounds, for example, based on polyurethane. But then the surfaces will have to be finished with something additional.
In demand and current means is the finishing of slopes, and, consequently, the sealing of foam, is cladding with plastic, sandwich panels, plasterboard or even wood.
A good way to cover the mounting foam on a window is also a special plaster mixture, which is designed for temperatures well below zero, if we are talking about the external wall of a building.
Acrylate paint or also liquid plastic is another fairly popular and not too expensive product that will help you cope with the task.

Indeed, methods and methods for filling the assembly seam, that is, in fact, protecting the foam from external influences, you can come up with just a colossal number, and one of them can be called the most banal window putty. The main thing here is not to make a mistake, and to choose the right material, depending on the final goals, as well as the operating conditions of the structure. On the outside of the window opening, you should use only frost-resistant mixtures that are not afraid of moisture and ultraviolet radiation, always remember about the water barrier and vapor barrier, and from the inside, always remember about temperature changes.

It is clear that if you have absolutely no idea how and with what to cover the foam after installing plastic windows, it may be better to entrust this task to real professionals. They are the ones who can give a guarantee for the work done. If the foam crumbles or loses its properties, it is not at all excluded that even the PVC profile of the frame may become deformed, and then the entire window unit will have to be replaced, and this is a colossal expense. So if you are not sure, then it is better not to do the work yourself, although it is not particularly difficult.

Today it is difficult to imagine construction or repair work where polyurethane foam is not used. With its help, they solve a lot of problems, because foam acts as a heat insulator, sealant, or is used as a fixing agent.

Polyurethane foam is highly durable and may not change its useful characteristics for many years, but under certain conditions - no ultraviolet rays. If you do not hide the foam from ultraviolet radiation, it quickly deteriorates and, as a result, loses its beneficial properties.

There are a lot of ways to hide the polyurethane foam so that it doesn’t damage it or interfere with its aesthetics. A common one is to putty.

This method is simple. One thing, BUT, these materials do not fit together, so plaster is applicable in 2 cases:

If at the head is Fire safety. Then apply a layer of plaster, which is 80 mm. In this case, use putty only with fire-fighting foam, which resists fire for 120 to 240 minutes. Although fire inspection claims will still arise;
For decorative purposes. In this case, putty is not so much protection, but as an aesthetic coating. This is the way to finish the work, making it aesthetically pleasing and pleasing to the eye.

Lack of protection

If additional protection from mechanical stress is provided, plasterboard sheets are used. The seams between them are plastered, the foam is hidden. Then they are not afraid of damage and shedding of the plaster.

Why does foam need protection?

Foam in the best possible way fills space in a crack or hole, seam. If you don’t think about protecting the foam, its service life will not exceed 5 years. In the process of such incorrect operation, the foam is constantly destroyed, as a result - liquid and moisture penetrate into the crack and cause destruction. And in the worst case scenario, the gap inside the wall will become a source of mold and mildew.

A simple way to protect it is to use regular sealing tape. But if you protect the foam on the street, the tape is unlikely to serve as reliable protection for long.

Another way is to use special mixtures (primers) that provide moisture-resistant protection. They have their drawbacks - in most cases they do not protect against ultraviolet rays - the main problem with polyurethane foam, and invariably lead to its destruction.

Other options are also used - sealants, putties, plastic, or acrylic paint. But if the excess foam is trimmed, it will not provide sufficient protection.

The protective layer for the foam prevents ultraviolet rays and creates vapor and water resistance.

Spoiled foam

That's why The best decision in this case putty or plaster. Moreover, its specific type and type are not important. This method is affordable and simple - even a person without special knowledge or skills in the construction industry can cope with such work.

Puttying process

Wait until the foam has completely expanded and dried. When ready for use, it has a wave-like shape and often excess foam appears in unusual points and positions. It will not be possible to hide such fragments with plaster, so they must be removed first. For these purposes, excess foam is cut off slightly deeper into the wall in order to use putty.

The polyurethane foam should be cut no earlier than 12 hours after application, but it is better to check the drying time. They are indicated on the can.

Before applying the plaster, apply regular masking tape around the areas of upcoming work to protect the clean surface that does not need any finishing from stains. Remove the tape after the plaster has been completely applied and dried.

Polyurethane foam protection

To hide the polyurethane foam, any of the following is convenient: existing species putties. However, the preparation process and the proportions of dilution of the mixture depend on the choice of manufacturer and specific model.

Puttying foam

After mixing is completed, the mixture has acquired a thick, uniform consistency; it is applied to the polyurethane foam.

They make a small, protruding excess, which is then eliminated with a spatula, but you should not go too deep, otherwise you will end up with a recess, a depression, which will have to be eliminated again.

The excess, when it dries, is simply wiped off using sandpaper or a special construction mesh, which is used for finishing work with plaster.

Begin washing after the putty has completely dried. In this case, the chances of causing damage are minimal; moreover, apply force to erase in order to quickly obtain the desired result.

Other ways to hide foam

It is not always practical to use putty; sometimes it is an extra waste of money. You can hide the polyurethane foam in other ways. Some of them are more expensive or cheaper than plaster, but are not suitable in all cases.

A simple and cheap method is to trim the foam and then rub it in. This method is relevant for cases where foam with a dense structure is used. This cut has an aesthetic appearance.

To make a neat cut, use not a knife, but a hacksaw for foam plastic - this blade does not tear the material. Next, after trimming the foam, it is sanded. To do this, use coarse sandpaper.

After sanding is completed, painting begins. For this they take regular paint. It is better to prefer white or other light shades. Apply the paint in several layers, then it will become a homogeneous, flat surface, which will provide sufficient protection to the mounting foam from ultraviolet rays.

Painting foam

Other methods include the use of any available materials - boards or metal sheets, even roofing felt will do.

If the foam is in the shade, and aesthetics are not an issue at all, then it is left in this form. Despite the fact that moisture and air have free access to the dried foam, they will not cause damage to it, moreover, it will retain its properties. If you are not sure that the shadow is permanent, hide the foam immediately. In the future, they simply forget about this need, and when the issue becomes acute, it turns out that the foam needs to be applied again, wasting time and money on repeating the work already done previously.

What are the nuances?

When preparing the solution for further application to the foam, you should be careful and thoroughly stir the mixture to eliminate the appearance of lumps that will spoil the aesthetics.

It's better to use an electric assistant

Depending on what functions the plaster layer performs, prepare a place for it. If it is protective, then remove the excess foam with a recess of several centimeters in order to plaster it efficiently. If the layer is decorative, then a large recess is not needed; a depth of no more than a centimeter is sufficient.

If you need to hide the foam on the street, take into account that even the impossibility of getting on protective layer moisture does not eliminate the chance of damage from other atmospheric factors. Severe frost also causes damage to the plaster. You should take care of this problem in advance and purchase a frost-resistant mixture. If the work is to be done indoors, this is not necessary.

Regardless of which recess is prepared for plaster, the holes are plastered so that the layer of the mixture is at least 5 mm. If you use a smaller layer, this will lead to the appearance of cracks on the surface of the plaster and its subsequent destruction.

If the layer exceeds this value, then the plaster is applied in several stages, waiting for the initial drying of the previous layer.

Grouting is not done after the plaster has completely dried; it is enough to allow time for proper hardening.

High-quality protection

When working with plaster, do not forget to use gloves and glasses. Dried mixture on the skin is difficult to wash off, and contact with the eye leads to serious consequences.

Don't forget to clean the tools after completing the work. If the mixture has not hardened, do this simply by washing them in water; if it has dried out, it will have to be cleaned mechanically.

In contact with

I’m doing it on the balcony, I washed everything off and the polyurethane foam (the window frames were installed) is soft, I think it will allow water to pass through. I’m thinking about what kind of composition I can use to cover it up! Thanks in advance!

The putty lags behind the foam over time (tested). plaster first thin layer, and once it dries, then putty.
Ceresite
putty on latex, after drying you can sand and paint.
Polyurethane foam does not allow water to pass through. It is best to cover the outside of the foam with acrylic sealant, to protect the foam from ultraviolet rays, and to be completely sure that it will not allow water to pass through - and putty and paint over the inside, or cover it with wallpaper.
If the seam is large, it is better (if the design allows) slopes; if the seam is up to 30mm wide, you can use tape to seal the junction of the bathroom with the wall and glue it along the contour. According to the installation technology (GOST 30971-2002_MOUNTING SEAMS OF JOINTS OF WINDOW BLOCKS TO WALL OPENINGS) - with inside A moisture-resistant, vapor-tight gasket must be installed. The installers who installed the windows should have installed it for you. So this is their defect and you can demand from them that the defects be corrected (by the way, they should have installed a moisture-resistant gasket and foam on the side; you should not have seen either side after installing the windows). Even if they refuse you, you can sue them ( see consumer rights law)
Whatever you want, it all depends on the width of the gap and your imagination. Platbands, plastic, drywall, putty, plaster, tiles, sealants...

Topic: Elastic putty on polyurethane foam

There is a piece of iron ~20 cm in size. tricky shape (acoustic locator emitter, if interested). make it heat and sound insulated. I sprayed it with water, wrapped it in polyethylene with holes, and blew polyethylene foam under the polyethylene. It turned out almost what you need
- a foam thing with a piece of iron inside. The question is how to make this weatherproof
designs. Just painting from a can is a bit flimsy. And the surface
very porous in places. I would like to coat it with some non-fragile elastic putty
until smooth and then paint.
Does such putty exist in nature?

1. Cut a children's rubber ball, stretch it, the seams are on the inside with silicone, on the outside with rubber on rubber glue. Tighten the patch on top with a reinforcing mesh and glue.
2. Buy two basins at a hardware store suitable shape. There is a rubber ring or silicone along the side, tighten it through the holes in the sides with bolts and nuts. Entry into the basin for cables through a waterproof cable entry sleeve.
3. Plastic bucket with a lid. Household, for (closes hermetically), for food (similar)...

Coat on top epoxy resin. To protect the foam from ultraviolet radiation, add some thick carbon powder to the resin as a filler. And make this mixture as thick as possible. Several layers are better.

Thanks for the ideas.
It’s bad with a ball and buckets, because the piece of iron sticks out of the foam
on both sides (otherwise it won’t work). And three legs also stick out.
There's too much fuss with epoxy. Yes, and it’s fragile without fiberglass...
Putty looks like it should work. Just what's up with its weather resistance?
Or even coat it with bitumen soundproofing mastic? She's completely black...

2roux Full of all sorts of tapes with sealing properties.
On all sorts of different bases: isobutyl, guerlene, PPE, etc.
On top there is reinforced tape.
Wrapped - and bulls

2Samar Thank you. The shape of the piece of iron is too tricky. You won’t suddenly wrap it up. Although, if they are very elastic, you can try.

Strange people... What kind of acoustic thing is it that will work if it is blown out with foam? If this is a hydroacoustic emitter, then it will not work exactly.. Write in more detail, what is it intended for? Otherwise, buy a heat-shrinkable polyvinyl chloride (or maybe from another material) tube, they come in different diameters...

2Old_Navy Reversible emitter. Emits a pulse (powerful). Then he also receives an echo signal (weak). The dead zone is determined by the reverberation time of the antenna. This thing was made by engineers, not acousticians. Therefore, it has a rather bizarre shape on the outside and rings. The idea is to cover the outside of the horn and tweeter with foam until it is almost round. Of course, nothing is inflated through a megaphone.
Due to the bizarre shape and three legs with heat shrink (as well as tapes), I’m afraid there will be problems..
Actually, I think I’ll stick with foam coated with bitumen mastic or acrylic putty. All that remains is to understand that the mastic has heat resistance. I would like it to not leak up to 80-100 degrees and not become brittle at -30.

2Red face Thank you. That is, foam + acrylic putty + paint, or everything is silicone?
With the latter, I'm afraid you won't be able to achieve a smooth surface, and the water will stand in uneven areas (freeze-thaw, etc.)..

Everything is just like for body repairs and can be dried with the Wind. Or how I do decorative elements: Primer over the foam, then putty mixed with a diluted primer (you can add color), then yacht varnish or epoxy.

2roux Where does it radiate? In water or in air? and, if it's not a secret... what is it intended for?

How to seal polyurethane foam or protect your home comfort!
We are already accustomed to the fact that polyurethane foam is a panacea for sealing any construction seams, cracks, crevices, etc. It is most often used when installing doors, windows, and also for filling various voids. But it does not always fit into the design of the room, so it must be made invisible, and besides, it is quite vulnerable to the effects of external environment, then the question arises of how to seal the polyurethane foam.
Content
How to seal polyurethane foam - why is this necessary?
How to protect polyurethane foam?
Some practical advice foam protection

1 How to seal polyurethane foam - why is this necessary?
The secret of the popularity of this material lies in its composition, as well as in its performance characteristics. Polyurethane foam is a polyurethane foam sealant, the main components of which are polyol and isocyanate. Manufacturers also add various auxiliary substances: blowing agent, stabilizer, catalyst, etc.
The main characteristics of foam are: adhesion, output volume, viscosity, primary and secondary expansion. Based on its composition, this building material is divided into two-component and one-component mixtures. In addition, foam can be professional and household, summer, winter and all-season.
But few people know that this multifunctional material itself requires protection. Sun rays and moisture have a detrimental effect on polyurethane foam. Manufacturers do not forget to indicate this with foam. Perhaps users read these recommendations, but do not know how to seal the polyurethane foam.
The solution is simple; treating the polyurethane foam with paint, sealant, or special materials will avoid future unfortunate consequences. If protection is not carried out, then it begins to crack and stain under the influence of moisture and sun.

Of course, this process also takes time, but rather short, about 4 years, and after this time the construction joints on your building will lose their thermal insulation properties. Under the influence of temperature changes, moisture and sunlight, the porous body of the foam loses thermal conductivity, because It is not hygroscopic and is completely destroyed over time.
2 How to protect polyurethane foam?
Thus, protection this material It is vital that it retains its properties and does not have to make frequent repairs. Before covering the mounting foam with sealant or putty, try PSUL (pre-compressed sealing tape) specially produced for this purpose.
This tape is used to fill irregularities in the opening when installing new structures. It is better to protect old structures using a diffuse membrane-type waterproofing tape.
In addition, the protection of the polyurethane foam is carried out:
finishing plaster or putty, prerequisite is resistance to negative temperatures;
a solution consisting of cement, sand and white grout;
polyurethane sealant;
acrylate paint;
liquid plastic;
window putty and so on.

Before you putty the polyurethane foam, you need to prepare the tools: a knife, a container for mixing the solution, a trowel and gloves.
Before plastering with polyurethane foam, it is necessary to cut off excess dried material from the outside of window or door blocks, etc.. If putty is used for protection, then it is better to deepen the outer seam by a few millimeters, but if sealant is used, you can limit yourself to a cut without deepening. The surface of the frozen foam needs to be leveled.
Many novice craftsmen often wonder how to putty polyurethane foam? As mentioned above, this can be any frost-resistant putty that is sold in construction stores. It is sold in the form of a dry mixture, to which you need to add required quantity water to obtain a special solution.
After preparing the solution, it should be applied to the surface to be repaired and leveled. If the putty is applied in a very thin layer, it may crack when drying, so it is advisable to

To find out how to protect polyurethane foam, the first thing you need to consider is its operating conditions. The popularity of polyurethane sealants has spread not only to facade work, but also to interior decoration premises - accordingly, the methods of protecting hardened foam are quite diverse

Polyurethane foam - properties of the material and its varieties

The consumer characteristics of polyurethane foam for sealing long linear gaps make one sincerely perplexed as to how they managed without it before, before the era of developed chemistry. Basic properties Foaming sealants include:

Excellent adhesion, and selective in nature. With the main building materials(concrete, brick, cinder blocks, cement, plaster, etc.) polyurethane foam forms a very strong, virtually permanent connection. But it sticks much worse to moisture, ice, polyethylene, silicone and oiled surfaces. This eliminates accidental sealing of foreign elements;
Volumetric primary expansion when the composition “leaves” from the cylinder it reaches 50 times the value, for the most modest manufacturers - no less than 20 times. The process takes only a few minutes and proceeds quickly, with a characteristic hissing and violent filling of the sealed openings. Just one spray is enough to fill deep and long joints. This is very convenient when working at heights, in hard to reach places, when plastering slopes with your own hands, when sealing ventilation pipes, when repairing balconies, etc.
Solid secondary seal. It is not enough to know how to seal the foam - it is important to consider that it changes in volume for several hours after application. For cheap manufacturers, this change is of a shrinkage nature - as a result, gaps may form between the door jamb and the dried foam. High-quality sealants do not exhibit the formation of “slot gaps” after hardening;
The viscosity and full installation volume of polyurethane sealants strongly depend on application conditions - temperature and humidity, the presence of wind, etc. There are “all-season” modifications of foam compositions, but they are optimally used at air temperatures from +5 ˚C to +35 ˚C, moderate humidity and in calm weather.

In addition to direct installation tasks - that is, sealing gaps, filling seams, insulating dissimilar joints, etc. – hardened foam has good thermal insulation and acoustic protection.

When installing window frames made of wood and plastic, pay attention to the flammability class of the sealing mixtures used; it can be fire-resistant, flammable and self-extinguishing.

When labeling the flammable properties of dried polyurethane foam, some manufacturers show a certain cunning. They write on packages, cans and adapter tubes only the numerical name of the flammability class, without verbal explanation. The average consumer may not know that:

B3 is a flammable composition that ignites even better than a wooden frame;
B2 is a self-extinguishing foam, and it can smolder for quite a long time;
B1 – non-flammable mounting composition. Of course, the non-flammable property will affect the price of the sealant in the direction of a significant increase.

The greatest damage to polyurethane sealants is caused by direct sunlight. The influence of atmospheric precipitation and mechanical vibrations also adversely affects the durability of the treated joint, but to a lesser extent. Before sealing the polyurethane foam, you need to make sure that the additional protection is resistant to ultraviolet radiation.

How to seal polyurethane foam - preliminary preparation

Some repair tips seem obvious, but the truth does not fade with repetition. Before you putty the polyurethane foam or tint it upper layer, wait for the composition to dry completely. Make sure that it tightly fills the entire installation opening, that there are no cracks or delaminations, irregularities in uniformity, etc. Deep lacunae and cracks should not be protected from the sun, but re-sealed. Most polyurethane sealants dry yellow or yellowish, this is normal.

First you need to decide how to protect the polyurethane foam - putty, special tape or paint. The fact is that for putty or other “volumetric protection” you will need to cut a recess in the sealant; if you are not used to it, this is difficult. Paints, tape and varnishes are applied to a flat surface;
Using a sharp knife, cut off any excess material protruding beyond the dimensions of the slope or jamb. It’s most convenient to take a special shoe knife with an oblique triangular blade - then it’s easier to withstand straight line cut. And don’t rush to quickly cut off the sagging. This is dangerous due to accidental cuts to hands, feet and damage to hardened foam or a brand new frame;
After the cutting stage, the grinding procedure begins (it is not needed when puttying seams). The dried foam is cleaned off with a fine sandpaper. You will have to act manually and carefully - grinding mechanical devices can damage the frame, slope, door jamb, etc.

How to protect polyurethane foam - basic repair methods

Any polyurethane foam will decompose when exposed to sunlight. Initially, this looks like a darkening of the material, after which it becomes brittle and falls out of the cracks, like leaves in the wind. More precisely, even wind is not required to destroy the sun-scorched sealant. The process of “ultraviolet destruction” of polyurethane foam takes from 1 to several years - depending on the thickness of the layer, the angle of incidence of its rays, the quality of the foam itself and the thoroughness of its application, etc.

Of course, even the maximum four years is an unacceptably short period for overhaul. And replacing windows, doors, installing ventilation, etc. must be no less durable than installing a shower tray - it makes sense to create comfort for decades to come with your own hands. When the preparation of the outer layer of foam is completed, we proceed to process it using one of the selected methods:

Putty. How to cover polyurethane foam on windows? Firstly, modified finishing plaster - with the addition of frost-resistant additives. Secondly, with special liquid plastic. Thirdly, ordinary window putty with the addition of liquid glass. All compositions are applied from the bottom up with neat strokes using a regular spatula, the excess is wiped off with a sponge;
Special mounting tape. The fastest and cheapest method of protection is also the most questionable from an aesthetic point of view. Even if you pick duct tape to match the color of the frames, painting it on top will not work (painting compounds will lead to peeling of the tape). If you are ready to glue all the joints with new tape every few months, you can try a quick decoration;
Paints and varnishes. Best to choose acrylate coloring composition, it has good adhesion with polyurethane foam. The paint is applied with a thin brush, moving from bottom to top to the corner of the frame or jamb. If you want especially durable protection of the foaming sealant, you can combine putty and acrylate painting - then the service life of the polyurethane foam will be comparable to the durability of the entire house.

Using polyurethane foam, we are able to completely eliminate all gaps after installing windows and doors. However, having cut off all the excess of this material, we are faced with the task of hiding traces of the foam itself, since it looks rather unpresentable. Today we will reveal the features of this process and talk about how to solve the problem as quickly and efficiently as possible.

This chemical product is a polyurethane-based sealant containing isocyanate and polyol. This is the base, but different manufacturers may include various additives such as catalysts, stabilizers, blowing agents and the like. The foam has high adhesion and expandability, allowing it to fill the entire space. Materials with which this foam forms the strongest connections, the following:

Cement;
Metal;
Plaster.

At the same time, plastic or greasy materials, as well as wet surfaces, adhere to such foam to a much lesser extent. This in turn ensures that we don't put it in places where it shouldn't be. Although, it is still difficult to wipe off such foam from such surfaces.

How to cut polyurethane foam

It is necessary to cut the foam with a technical knife, which must be sharp. Try to make the cut so that the remaining foam is flush with both surfaces on its sides. This will make further processing easier.

Is it necessary to seal the foam section with sealant?

Polyurethane foam is an excellent insulator, but it itself also needs insulation. If this is not done, the surface will begin to crack under the influence of solar radiation and moisture. Therefore, it is necessary to hide its cut so that the foam does not collapse prematurely (usually its insulating properties last for 4 years). Polyurethane can be used as a sealant, as it is most suitable for such a bond. Pre-compressed sealing tape is also widely used for foam sealing. However, it is necessary to understand that construction tape is a very dubious decision from a design point of view. In addition, do not apply any finishing materials on top of such tape, since, once saturated with them, the tape will begin to peel off.

Polyurethane foam plaster and other types of finishing

In addition to the options listed above, the following are used:

Acrylic paint;
A mixture of cement, white grout and sand;
Putty. A finishing plaster that can withstand negative temperatures is suitable;
Window putty or liquid plastic.

Depending on the type of concealment of the polyurethane foam, it is necessary to carry out certain actions. For example, if the foam is painted over, then this can be done directly onto an even cut. However, in the case of plaster, it is necessary to first ensure better adhesion to the surface. And for this, small grooves are cut into the foam.

The layer of plaster with which we will cover the foam should not be thin. Indeed, in this case it will very quickly begin to crack and crumble. Try to keep the layer thickness at least three millimeters

Foam grouting is done in two cases:

Before painting, in order to create the most even surface. In this case, you need to ensure that the cut does not begin to collapse, and for this you need to use the finest sandpaper;
In the case of applying plaster, after the latter has dried, the surface is carefully grouted to give it an attractive appearance.