1. Do not tear off the thread for work, and even more so do not bite off with your teeth (ruin your teeth); cut it with scissors not across, but at an acute angle - such an end is easier to thread into a needle. Many also do this: first they thread the thread into the eye, and then cut it off - in this case, it is more obedient in work: it does not get scared, it does not twist.
2. If you want to sew quickly, do not thread a long thread into the needle - no more than 60-70 cm. There is a very accurate Russian proverb: "a long thread is a lazy girl." And here is also true omen: "to sew with a long thread - to live far from my mother." So it's not worth the risk.
Z. Each seam begins with thread fastening. The simplest thing is to tie a knot at the end (Fig. 5): the end of the thread is clamped between the large and index fingers right hand, at the same time they pull it with their left hand and circle it around the index finger of the right hand, twist it between the fingers, lowering it down the index finger, pinch the thread with the threads between the fingers and pull them down the thread, helping with the thumb.

In other words, experienced craftswomen they don’t like the knot and fix the thread like this (Fig. 6): the fabric is pierced from the front side to the wrong side and after 2-3 mm the needle is brought to the front side - the first stitch was formed on the wrong side, and the “tail” remained on the front side. Then the first stitch is sewn across the second and after that the thread is pulled tight. Pull the thread - and you will see how firmly it is fastened.
4. It must be remembered: the hands spontaneously fit the upper fabric, and the sewing machine - the lower one. For example, if you put together sections of fabric of the same length and, without sweeping, sew them on a typewriter, then as a result the bottom section will be shorter. To prevent this from happening, while sewing, you need to slightly stretch the bottom fabric. If two identical sections are sewn manually, then the upper part will “shorten”. Experienced dressmakers, knowing this feature, use it. For example, sewing an oblique cut with a shared one by hand, they sew along the oblique, and they scribble on a typewriter, placing the oblique cut from below.
5. All manual shvyg can be divided into direct and return. If the needle, laying stitches, moves only forward - these are straight seams, for example, a “forward needle” seam. When you have to not only move the needle forward, but also return it back to get the next stitch, these are return stitches (the stitch “back the needle”, “goat”, etc.).

Seam "forward needle", or running, is considered the simplest (Fig. 7) - we will start with it. They temporarily connect parts of the fabric, and if temporarily, then inexpensive, low-grade threads are used for basting. Stitches are laid from right to left. Stitch length - from 5 mm to 2 cm, depending on the purpose of the seam. The stitches on the front and back sides are the same length.
If you need to sweep more firmly, then the stitches are laid differently (Fig. 8): one stitch is long (8-9 mm), one is short (2 mm); on the wrong side, two short ones are formed.
Pin basting - another way to connect tissues (Fig. 9). Usually they are used by dressmakers, sweeping fabrics into stripes, a cage, and patchworkers - almost constantly. This method speeds up the process hand sewing but they need to be used wisely. The main thing here is to prick the pins correctly so that they do not fall under the machine needle: they are stuck with a point directed at right angles to the seam. If straight sections are connected, then the pins are injected after 3-4 cm, carefully aligning the tissue sections and pulling them equally.
On rounded lines, pins are placed more often - after 5-10 mm. Connecting fabrics into a strip or a cage, the pins are injected according to the pattern, for example, into each strip, and if it is wide, then on both sides, carefully connecting it with the same strip on the bottom fabric. But in any case, you need to remember: the pins must always lie at right angles to the fabric cuts.

Seam "back needle" (Fig. 10). With this strong, elastic seam, once, before the invention sewing machine sewing clothes. Outwardly, it looks like a “forward needle” seam, only the stitches are shorter and more convex. There is no similarity on the wrong side: the stitches go behind each other, forming a continuous line, and each is three times longer than the stitch on the right side. for such durable seam and the threads need strong, high-quality. They sew from right to left: the needle is brought out from the inside to the front side, a stitch is made back and under the fabric they pass two stitches forward, then they return, lay the next stitch back at some distance from the previous one and under the fabric - two stitches forward, etc.
Seam manual "stitch » (Fig. 11). This seam is a variation of the back-to-the-needle seam, but even more durable. It is performed in exactly the same way as the previous one) only without gaps between the stitches, so the length of the stitch on the wrong side is not three, but only two times longer than that of the front stitch (clearance is excluded). A neatly executed manual “line” is difficult to distinguish from a machine one. In terms of strength, it is not only not inferior to it, but even surpasses it, especially if it is made with high-quality threads.
Blind stitch (Fig. 12). The name speaks for itself: the stitches should not be visible from the wrong side, much less from the front side. Sew from right to left. They sew the bottom of the product with them, attach ribbons, braid, sew on facings, etc. In the old days, the work of a dressmaker was primarily evaluated by how the hem was hemmed: if the stitches are not visible, it means that the dressmaker is experienced and accurate. Pay Special attention on this seam and learn how to perform it according to all the rules.
Take a piece of light fabric measuring 20x20 cm, a thin short needle No. 2 and black threads (so that all errors are immediately visible on the sample). Tuck one of the sides by 4 cm and sweep, stepping back from the edge of 5 mm (in no case do not iron the hem - it should be airy). Now make a small knot on the thread, insert the needle inside the hem, bring it into the fold and stick the needle exactly under the thread sticking out of the fold, capturing only one or two threads of fabric (make sure that the needle does not pierce the fabric through). Pull out the thread. Again, insert the needle into the fold, pricking it next to the previous puncture, and make a stitch inside the fold (7-8 mm), then pull the needle out of the fold, pull the thread to the end and sew the fabric exactly under its exit, grabbing one or two threads. Continue sewing, checking from time to time to see if the black thread is visible from the right side of the pattern.
A little tip: in order to better see the course of the needle along the fold, turn the hem to the front side, folding it with the front side of the front product.

Cross seam - "goat" (Fig. 13). Such a seam is used to connect thick, non-flowing fabrics, hem knitwear, and use it in applications. Sew from left to right, as well as from bottom to top. On a piece of fabric, fold one edge and fold over. Thread a black thread into the needle and fasten it in the hem, pulling it up from the edge by 5 mm. Insert the needle (point to the left) into the fabric under the hem, pick up one or two threads and pull out the needle. Make the same stitch on the hem, stepping back 7 mm from the point where the thread is fixed, then the lower one and so alternate.
Buttonhole stitch (Fig. 14). Buttonhole stitches overcast fabric sections, use in appliqués, perform air stitches and cut through buttonholes. It is more convenient to lay stitches from left to right, but you can also work from right to left. Fasten the thread on the left and throw it on the needle in the form of a loop. The distance between the stitches is 2-4 mm, the stitch height is from 5 to 10 mm.

The tree and the owl are made of rags sewn to the burlap with a buttonhole stitch. The leaves are embroidered with a goat.

Hand stitches

Before talking about the seams that we will have to use in working with flaps, get acquainted with general rules for all types of hand seams.

Do not tear off the thread for work, and even more so do not bite off with your teeth (ruin your teeth); cut it with scissors not across, but at an acute angle - such an end is easier to thread into a needle. Many also do this: first they thread the thread into the eye, and then cut it off - in this case, it is more obedient in work: it does not get confused, it does not twist. If you want to sew quickly, do not thread a long thread into the needle - no more than 60-70 cm. There is a very accurate Russian proverb: "A long thread is a lazy girl." And here is also a sure sign: "Sew with a long thread - live far from your mother." So it's not worth the risk. Each seam begins with thread fastening. The simplest thing is to tie a knot at the end (Fig. 1): the end of the thread is clamped between the thumb and forefinger of the right hand, at the same time it is pulled with the left hand and circled around the index finger of the right hand, twisted between the fingers, lowering down along the index finger, clamp the thread with turns between the fingers and pull them down the thread, helping with the nail of the thumb. It must be said that first-class dressmakers believe that it is necessary to fasten the thread on the fabric differently, without a knot, since even a small neat knot often gets under the needle when sewing on a typewriter and gets stuck in the machine seam, from where it is difficult to remove. In addition, on thin transparent fabrics, the knot can shine through in the filing and be imprinted under the iron.

• It must be remembered: the hands spontaneously fit the upper fabric, and the sewing machine - the lower one. For example, if you put together sections of fabric of the same length and, without sweeping, sew them on a typewriter, then as a result the bottom section will be shorter. To prevent this from happening, while sewing, you need to slightly stretch the bottom fabric. If two identical sections are sewn manually, then the upper part will “shorten”. Experienced dressmakers, knowing this feature, use it. For example, sewing an oblique cut with a shared one by hand, they sew along the oblique, and they scribble on a typewriter, placing the oblique cut from below.
• All manual seams can be divided into straight and return. If the needle, laying stitches, moves only forward - these are straight seams, for example, a “forward needle” seam. When you have to not only move the needle forward, but also return it back to get the next stitch, these are return stitches (the stitch “back the needle”, “goat”, etc.).

Seam "forward needle", or running, is considered the simplest (Fig. 3) - we will start with it. They temporarily connect parts of the fabric, and if temporarily, then inexpensive, low-grade threads are used for basting. Stitches are laid from right to left. Stitch length - from 5 mm to 2 cm, depending on the purpose of the seam. The stitches on the front and back sides are the same length.

If you need to sweep more firmly, then the stitches are laid differently (Fig. 4): one stitch is long (8-9 mm), one is short (2 mm); on the wrong side, two short ones are formed.

Pin basting- another way to connect tissues (Fig. 5). Usually they are used by dressmakers, sweeping fabrics into stripes, a cage, and patchworkers - almost constantly. This method speeds up the process of hand sewing, but it must be used wisely. The main thing here is to prick the pins correctly so that they do not fall under the machine needle: they are stuck with a point directed at a right angle to the seam. If straight sections are connected, then the pins are injected after 3-4 cm, carefully aligning the tissue sections and pulling them equally.

On rounded lines, pins are placed more often - after 5-10 mm. Connecting fabrics into a strip or a cage, the pins are injected according to the pattern, for example, into each strip, and if it is wide, then on both sides, carefully connecting it with the same strip on the bottom fabric. But in any case, you need to remember: the pins must always lie at right angles to the fabric cuts.

Seam "back needle"(Fig. 6). This strong, elastic seam was once used to sew clothes before the invention of the sewing machine. Outwardly, it looks like a “forward needle” seam, only the stitches are shorter and more convex. There is no similarity on the wrong side: the stitches overlap each other, forming a continuous line, and each is three times longer than the stitch on the right side. For such a strong seam and thread, you need strong, high-quality ones. They sew from right to left: the needle is brought out from the inside to the front side, a stitch is made back and under the fabric they pass two stitches forward, then they return, lay the next stitch back at some distance from the previous one and under the fabric - two stitches forward, etc.

Blind stitch(Fig. 8). The name speaks for itself: the stitches should not be visible from the wrong side, much less from the front side. Sew from right to left. They sew the bottom of the product, attach ribbons, braid, sew on facings, etc. In the old days, the work of a dressmaker was primarily evaluated by how the hem was hemmed: if the stitches are not visible, it means that the dressmaker is experienced and accurate. Pay special attention to this seam and learn how to perform it according to all the rules.

Take a piece of light fabric measuring 20x20 cm, a thin short needle No. 2 and black threads (so that all errors are immediately visible on the sample). Tuck one of the sides by 4 cm and sweep, stepping back from the edge of 5 mm (in no case do not iron the hem - it should be airy). Now make a small knot on the thread, insert the needle inside the hem, bring it into the fold and stick the needle exactly under the thread sticking out of the fold, capturing only one or two threads of fabric (make sure that the needle does not pierce the fabric through). Pull out the thread. Again, insert the needle into the fold, pricking it next to the previous puncture, and make a stitch inside the fold (7-8 mm), then pull the needle out of the fold, pull the thread to the end and sew the fabric exactly under its exit, grabbing one or two threads. Continue sewing, checking from time to time to see if the black thread is visible from the right side of the pattern.

Little hint: to better see the course of the needle along the fold, turn the hem to the front side, folding it with the front side of the front product.

Cross seam - "goat"(Fig. 9). Such a seam is used to connect thick, non-flowing fabrics, hem knitwear, and use it in applications. Sew from left to right, as well as from bottom to top. On a piece of fabric, fold one edge and fold over. Thread a black thread into the needle and fasten it in the hem, stepping up from the edge by 5 mm. Insert the needle (point to the left) into the fabric under the hem, pick up one or two threads and pull out the needle. Make the same stitch on the hem, stepping back 7 mm from the point where the thread is fixed, then the lower one and so alternate.

Buttonhole stitch(Fig. 10). Buttonhole stitches are used to overcast sections of fabrics, used in appliqués, perform air and welt loops for buttons. It is more convenient to lay stitches from left to right, but you can also work from right to left. Fasten the thread on the left and throw it on the needle in the form of a loop. The distance between the stitches is 2-4 mm, the stitch height is from 5 to 10 mm.

M. Maksimova M. Kuzmina "Patchwork"

SOURCE:

Hand stitches

. Interlining seam(Fig. 1) is used to indicate the middle of the product, as well as to indicate corrections marked with pins during fitting. Stitch length - 2-3 cm. When applying stitches to the fabric, the thread is not pulled. Needle punctures are made from right to left.

. silky(Fig. 2) are used to transfer lines to parts of the same name. To do this, running stitches are laid along the line without pulling the thread. Stitches form loops 1.5-2cm. After applying the snares, the parts are moved apart, the threads of the stitches between them are pulled and cut.

. Basting seam(Fig. 3) is used for temporary fastening of parts to each other. The length of the running stitch depends on its purpose and the thickness of the fabric.

. Blind stitch(Fig. 4) is used for hemming the bottom of the dress, neck, sleeves. To make this seam, a bent and slightly turned edge of the fabric is pierced with a needle inside the fabric, the needle is advanced 0.5-1 cm, the lower fabric is pierced near the exit of the needle, grabbing 1-2 threads, etc.

. Seam "over the edge"(Fig. 5) is used in cases where it is required to connect two edges of the fabric.

. Assembly seam(Fig. 6) is used for gathering fabric into an assembly (Fig. 6a), and also as a finishing one (Fig. 6b).

. Hand seam stitching(Fig. 7) in appearance resembles a machine. When it is performed, the needle sticks into the place where it exited in the previous stitch. The stitch length of this seam on the wrong side is equal to two stitches on the right side. On the front side, the stitches should converge tightly to each other. A hand stitch is used when a tight and strong stitch is required, but it is not possible to use a machine stitch.

. Seam "behind the needle"(Fig. 8) is used when sweeping fabrics into a cage and a strip. It is performed in the same way as a hand seam stitch, however, some spacing is allowed between the stitches.

. Shtukovka(Fig. 9) is used to firmly and imperceptibly sew up a cut in woolen and cloth products. Also for tailoring. fur products. In woolen products, the piece is performed in the following order: a needle is inserted, slightly retreating from the edge of the cut of the product, and stitches are made over the edge back and forth with a needle, as in darning, slightly pulling one edge of the cut to the other (Fig. 9a). Stitching a direct cut in coarse fabrics (drape, cloth) requires the following technique: the needle is inserted into the edge of the cut, without going through the entire thickness of the tissue (Fig. 9b), but only reaching the upper corner of the cut. Stitches are made not over the edge, but inward from the edge of the cut back and forth with a needle. Then, from the inside, a seam is laid over the edge, without piercing the entire fabric with a needle, but only capturing the wrong layer. The second seam (Fig. 9c) is performed for the strength of the closed cut. Threads are selected according to the color and thickness of the fabric.

Darn(Fig. 10) is used to repair frayed places in fabrics. Darning stitches are superimposed in the longitudinal and transverse directions.

Hand stitches

The seam - This is the place where the pieces come together. The thread connection of parts is done with a stitch on a sewing machine or manually. This is a series of repeating stitches. Stitch - This is the interlacing of threads between two needle punctures. The distance between two consecutive needle punctures is called stitch length . Distance from part cut to stitch -- seam width .

By appointment hand stitches are divided into connecting And finishing . Hand stitches form stitches temporary And permanent destination.

Hand stitches and stitches

stitches	lines	graphic image
Temporary lines
Direct	Estimating Copy
Permanent stitches
oblique	Overcasting (in 1 cm 3 - 4 stitches) Hemming (in 1 cm 3 - 4 stitches)
Loop-shaped	Stitched (in 1 cm 4 - 5 stitches)
Looped	overcasting

Types of finishing hand stitches

Preparation for work

In order to qualitatively perform certain sewing manual works, it is necessary to know the methods of threading a thread into a needle, tying a knot at the end of a thread, and working with a thimble.

The length of the thread for manual work should be equal to twice the distance from the hand to the elbow of the worker (no more than 80 cm).

Proverb - Long thread, lazy seamstress.

Before threading the needle, the end of the thread is twisted between the thumb and forefinger of the right hand. The needle is held between the thumb and forefinger of the right hand, with the eye towards the thread. With the left hand, the twisted thread is inserted into the eye of the needle and pulled out 2/3 of the length.

It is necessary to tie a knot at the end of the thread so that the line does not unravel.

Performance hand stitches

6. Basting lines are removed after sewing.

Hand seam

Hand stitch. Most of the readers, having opened our "Encyclopedia" on this chapter, will say that it is completely superfluous to talk in detail about the hand seam, especially now that so often the machine seam replaces the hand

We hasten to answer them that of all women's work, it is most important to know in all details the hand seam, since it is he who represents the basis of any work with a needle.

Hands that perform well in all kinds of seam will not encounter difficulty in the execution of any kind of ornament.

However, whatever the conditions in which life puts you, it is always useful to be able to sew well. Because if, on the one hand, the ability to sew facilitates the correct assessment of someone else's work, then, on the other hand, you always have the opportunity to do a good and solid job with my own hands if the need dictates.

Body position. Before proceeding to explain stitches and seams, we note that, whatever your work, you need to take care of comfortable posture. Long experience allows us to affirm positively that there is no such seam or embroidery that would make us sit uncomfortable.

First of all, for a comfortable and calm posture, it is necessary that the height of the chair matches the height of the table. The hands should hold the work at such a height that it is not necessary to lower the head, which should be kept as straight as possible and, at the most, slightly tilted forward.

You should never pin work to your knee: the posture that the body takes is ugly and unhygienic. The work must be pinned to a pillow with a heavy base so that this pillow cannot be fed during stitches.

Needles. For sewing, you need to use needles of the first grade and very elastic. To find out if they are elastic enough, break one needle with your hands. If it is sufficiently elastic, then a decent resistance will be felt before the fracture and the fracture itself will come out smooth.

But if the needle breaks easily, like glass, or bends like wire, it is bad. You should never sew with curved needles, because when you use them, the stitches come out wrong. The eye of the needle should be very smooth so that the tip of the thread does not unravel and cut through.

Seams on thin linen are made with short or semi-long needles. Other works are performed with long needles. Therefore it is useful to have at least three kinds of needles.

The needle should be slightly thicker than the thread so that the thread slides freely into the holes.

To protect the needles from rust, it is good to put a little powdered talc in the bags. It is also good for those persons whose hands sweat (which is why the needles rust), from time to time to dip the fingertips into a box with amianth.

You can also fill the pillow with fine sand and stick needles into it, slightly rusty.

Scissors. Scissors for work must have two pairs: one large with one sharp, the other with a rounded end, others - small, for cutting threads, tips and cutting out small particles of matter. The same scissors are also used in many of the works described below. The rings of scissors should be round and as wide as possible, because small rings tire the hand and leave marks on the fingers.

Thimble. A steel thimble is better than a bone thimble, which is too fragile, and a silver thimble, in which the dimples are too small. A good thimble should be light, slightly rounded at the end, and its edges should not lag behind the finger.

Thread length. The sewing thread should not be longer than 50 cm; for reference, it can be longer.

It is better to cut the thread than to cut it off, which is why it unwinds.

Fig.1. Strengthening the thread near the eye

(Fig. 1)

If the thread is not long, but they still don’t want to change it, then you can fasten it with a loop at the very eye of the needle.

As for the knots, no matter what kind of work it is, they should be almost invisible, although they are tied firmly.

It does not matter either which end of the thread is threaded into the needle. It is imperative to thread the end that was cut off from the coil. If you thread it with the reverse end, the thread becomes shaggy and loses its luster.

Threads.

For basting, cheap threads are used, soft and specially manufactured for this purpose.

For sewing, Alsatian cotton is best. D.M.C. threads, black and white.

Fig.2. Hand position for cushion sewing

(Fig. 2).

Pin the fabric to the pillow and hold with your left hand. But left hand should never lean on a pillow or on a table.

The thumb and forefinger of the right hand should grab the needle at half the length.

Middle finger, on which the thimble is put on, rests on the eye of the needle and advances it into the matter far enough so that the thumb and forefinger can grab it below the stitch and stretch it along with the thread.

The thread passes between the 4th and 5th fingers and forms a loop on the last one, which must be pulled through gradually so that a knot does not form. fingers

Fig.3. Hand position for sewing without pad

Hand position for a seam without a pad.(Fig. 3)

If pads are not to be used, then do not wrap the cloth around the index finger of the left hand, but only hold it between the thumb and forefinger and let it hang freely over the other fingers.

However, if the matter should be somewhat stretched, then pinch it between the 4th and 5th fingers. Then the matter is not collected and is not stretched along the seam.

Stitches.

For various kinds of seams, there are four types of stitches: forward needle, behind the needle, scar and over the edge.

Fig.4. Seam forward needle

(Fig. 4).

This is the simplest seam and is shown to children first of all.

The needle is injected into the fabric a little ahead of the previous stitch (threads after 2 - 4) and pulled back at the same (sometimes less) distance.

If matter allows, then the needle is injected several times in a row, back and forth, and then pulled out together with the thread.

This seam is used for a simple seam, assemblies and when sewing light fabrics.

Fig.5. Seam per needle

(Fig. 5).

They grab six threads of fabric with a needle from right to left, then, pulling out the thread, they stick the needle back, behind the thread.

Fig.6. Line

(Fig. 6).

This is the name of the seam for the needle, if there is no gap between the stitches. The needle is inserted into the same hole from which the previous thread comes out, and is pulled out at a distance equal to the next stitch.

This seam must be very regular, and this is achieved at first only by counting the threads of matter.

The stitch takes one or two threads, depending on the thickness of the matter. With a straight line for linen, the thread is pulled out fine fabric where the seam should be.

The pulled thread will be replaced by stitches. If the line should go sideways or along thick matter, then in order for the line to be straight, a basting is made with a thread that differs in color from the matter.

Fig.7. Scar stitching

(Fig. 7).

It is performed with the seam just described. The scar is first bent along a straight thread. Then they pull out the thread (or make a basting) for the line, retreating two or three threads from the bend. The face of the work is on the side where the stitches are.

(Fig. 8).

In order for the scar to come out well, you must first bend the matter along a straight thread. If the material is hard, like linen, nansuk or calico, then first, to make it softer, it is rubbed between the fingers. The first bend is made at most 2 mm over the entire length of the seam. Then they make a second bend (what width is needed). The edge of matter is hidden between two bends. Only scars wider than 1 cm are swept in, and the first bend is made only so wide that the matter does not spill out.

Fig.8. simple scar

For a stitch, one thread of matter is captured under the scar and the needle is passed a little obliquely, two threads above the bend of the scar. The gap between the stitches is two threads. The stitches should form a straight line. Pulling the thread for this is not recommended, as the matter loses its strength from this.

Woolen matter does not hold a fold, and therefore it has to be folded gradually over two or three stitches or basted.

This seam is also used in cases where it is necessary to make a tucked seam. The needle should pass into the lower fabric and into the middle (tucked) layer, but the stitches should not be visible from the side that lies on the left hand.

Fig.9.

Fig.10.

CONTINUED ON SITE: http://encework.liferus.ru/ruchn_shov.aspx

I still remember the time when I needed a snowflake dress for a matinee, and it was a problem to buy it in a store. So my mother had to take and sew this dress with her own hands. We had at home sewing machine, but it was not super cool and often broke down, and it was difficult to fix it ...

And some things, including this snowflake dress, my mother sewed for me with the help of some hand stitches. The outfit was excellent and if it weren’t for the fact that the dress was themed and I had to wear it only once, it could have lasted a very long time due to its tailoring quality. Not like today Chinese things sewn with rotten threads and somehow on hastily on a sewing machine.

Earlier things self made not valued as much as they are now. Being in Italy a month ago, I saw excellent women's and men's suits of incredible quality. Their price was also very high level. When asked what was so special about them, the fashion designer said they were made without a sewing machine. Completely hand stitched!

Hand stitches

Of course, it's faster to scribble on a typewriter. But this is not always convenient. And for those who want to learn how to sew, you just need to master basic hand stitches and seams. Here I, for example, discovered more than five unfamiliar to me.

Editorial "So simple!" prepared for you 12 types of hand seam, which will certainly help you in everyday life.

1. Here is an example of a French stitch. Such a seam is used when processing seam allowances on products made of thin and transparent fabrics.

   

2. And this is a view from the inside of the coat, which is sewn entirely by hand. This product belongs to the hands of a Swede. Very patient, in my opinion.

   She generally decided to sew her wardrobe by hand. And he claims that the seams do not stretch and unravel, of course.

   

3. A small visual master class on creating hand seams. How do you like this job?

   

4. It was this type of seam that captivated me the most. It's called Elizabethan. More than two centuries ago, many things were sewn with just such a seam.

   After sewing, this top seam was stretched so that it was flat. And the stitches were made frequent: no more than 2 mm from each other.

   

   In ancient times, in order for the seam to be smooth and strong, the threads were rubbed with wax. I think it's just a great idea for today, if you need a strong seam.

   

5. And here is another good master class, in your piggy bank.

   

6. These stitches will suit you for hemming and overcasting edges of the future product.

   

7. And here's another one good example connecting seams.

   

8. If you need to sew shoulder or side cuts, here's a handy one for you. stitching pattern.

   For those who did not know or forgot, let me remind you that stitching is a thread connection of two or more parts of approximately equal size, combined in cuts.

   

9. Another example of stitching.

   

10. There are a lot of types of hand seams. They are especially useful for those who do not yet have a sewing machine. Or a high-class tailor who sews everything by hand.

    

11. A good example of manual hem.

    

12. Hem seams are used very often. Because they can process both the bottom of the product, and the bottom of the sleeves, and the inner edges of the pick-ups, facings, armholes, as well as process the edges of the finishing parts on products sewn from light fabrics. For example, flounces, ruffles, frills.

    

Even a novice dressmaker knows that hand seams are the fastening of several parts together with a needle and thread. It is no secret that the appearance of the sewn product depends on the quality of the handmade ones.

Let's take a look at a few examples of hand stitching that will come in handy for a beginner seamstress in further work for the manufacture of garments.

What will be needed?

• Cloth or several pieces of cloth;
• Needle, thread.

The needle for hand stitching should be straight. The presence of curvatures on the work tool will provoke an incorrect seam. Also, don't get carried away big size abalone. The larger the eye, the more noticeable the hole in the fabric. Chiffon, for example, needs to be sewn with the thinnest needle with the smallest eye.

Hand seams, execution technique

Basting stitch

It is used for temporary fastening of parts together (for example, for trying on a product). When piercing the fabric, the needle goes up - down - up ... The width of the stitch depends on the fabric and can be from 0.7 mm to 2.5 cm.

Basting stitch

Used to temporarily attach one part to another (for example, a pocket to a dress). Outwardly, it practically does not differ from the running seam, but the stitch length can reach 3 cm. The larger the stitches and the distances between them, the easier it is to remove such a seam after attaching the part.

Copy stitch

The copy stitch is used to transfer the lines of future lower stitches to the same parts (for example, darts on the right and left shelf) or to transfer lines from the front to the wrong side (or vice versa). Narrow stitches are made, left in the form of a loop (not tightened thread). After the end of the stitching line, the parts of the product are moved apart until the thread is stretched, the flagella formed in the space between the parts are cut. It turns out the same contour with the front and wrong side product or both.

Seam "back needle"

This stitch mimics a machine stitch. It can be used both when repairing products (for example, trimming and hemming the bottom of trousers), and in the absence sewing machine. The technique for its implementation is quite simple: we insert the needle into the fabric as with basting or basting seams, then go back and insert the needle at the end of the previous stitch, make the new stitch longer.

Overlock (button) seam

The seam is designed to process the cut of the fabric to prevent it from shedding. There are several types of overcast seams:

• Oblique - the needle walks around the edge, resulting in a slope of the thread.

• Cruciform - double oblique seam: first, the needle goes in a circle in one direction along the entire length, then in reverse direction along the entire length.

• Looped - stitches are made from left to right of the same height. Each time the needle must be threaded into the stitch already made and the loop tightened.

Notch stitch

A seam seam is used to attach a folded edge of the product (for example, the bottom of a skirt). Outwardly, it looks like a basting, but with a stitch from 1 cm to 3 cm long, the main product and its folded edge are connected.

basting seam

The basting seam is used to fasten already sewn parts with a seam turned inside out (for example, shoulder strap, collar, valve). This type of seam is applied before ironing or applying decorative stitching over the finished product.

Hemming seam

The pre-folded edge of the product is processed with a hemming seam. Unlike the notch stitch, the hemming one belongs to the category of permanent ones, i.e. after applying such a seam, no additional machine stitching is required. There are several types of hem stitches:

• Simple - similar to a cruciform overcasting, only the needle goes in a circle of an already folded edge. At the same time, the capture of the fabric of the product from the front side should be minimal (the main thread load is taken by the wrong side of the product).

• Blind - the needle is inserted into the bend and the joint of the product for a very small distance, connecting the parts, the main stitch length remains inside the bend.

• Figured - the needle goes from left to right and from bottom to top. We make an internal transverse prick of the cut, pull out the thread, the next prick connects the bend and the main product with a transverse seam.

Hand stitching is easy to learn. Knowledge in this area is necessary for any person. That is why, in technology lessons in schools, they study hand seams, both girls and boys.

Seams made by machine

They, in turn, are divided into several subcategories. Depending on the purpose, there are the following machine seams:

• connecting - as the main types of connections are used directly to assemble parts into a single product. This category includes stitching, stitching, invoice, tuning, double seams and butt seam;
• edge - this group is performed in the process of processing the lower and side sections of parts. Here, a hem and edging seam is distinguished;
• decorative - used for decoration of the product.

Various options are available a large number of, we will consider the main machine seams that are most widely used.

Stitch seam

This is the simplest form, it is performed in the following sequence:

1. The details must be connected by combining the front side of the fabric, fastened with pins or basted along a line that was previously marked with chalk. Usually, the width of the launch per seam should be limited to 5-20 mm.
2. We carry out a straight line along the connection line with the obligatory fastening of the thread at the beginning and at the end of the seam. This is ensured by passing a line in opposite directions with a length of 1 cm.
3. Sections of the assembled parts must be overcast. This can be done in two ways, which depend on the further application of the seam. The first method is ironing, when two sections are overcast separately and processed with an iron in the same order. The second option is called zautyuzhku. With this method, the edges are processed with an overlock seam or overlock together.
4. At the end of the processing of sections, remove the running thread and produce heat treatment iron seam. Depending on how the basting was made, we iron the sections separately or together.

seam

It can be performed using two technologies, when the cut is obtained open or closed.

• Open cut. You can also get this type of seam in two ways. At the first one, one part is combined with another not by cuts, but by a smell, which should be 15-20 mm. Next, a line is sewn on the machine parallel to the edge. Another technique assumes that a part with a bent and ironed edge is applied to the second one, while the sections are aligned. The stitching should be parallel to the folded edge. At the end of the seam, according to this method, a folded joint is obtained from the front side, and two raw cuts from the wrong side.
• Closed cut. Docking front side two parts, stepping back the edges to a distance of 5-10 mm. We lay the first line on the wrong side, while the distance from the edge should not exceed 5 mm. We bend the part along the completed line to the front side. The fold must be made in such a way that the cut overlaps with the top line. Then we perform the second seam with an indent parallel to the edge.

Sewing a seam

This type has found its application in the process of creating bed linen. The stitching seam is performed using the following technology:

1. We combine two parts facing each other. In this case, the lower cut should protrude by an amount finished seam, the size of the protrusion should be within 8-9 mm.
2. We make a bend, capturing the cut edge from the upper part with the edge of the lower part.
3. We carry out the first line, it should be located at a distance of 1-2 mm from the folded edge.
4. To get a sewing seam, unfold the parts and lay them out on the front side.
5. By turning the connected part, we close the smaller section and perform the second line, stepping back from the edge no more than 2 mm.

Double or French stitch

It is performed as a continuation of the seam in the following order:

1. In order to perform a double seam, it is necessary to lay out the parts not on the front, but on the wrong side, both cuts must be aligned in one line.
2. We grind the edges on the front side with an indent of 3-4 mm.
3. Smooth out the cuts.
4. We turn out the details, combining the front sides.
5. We carry out the second line, it should be located at a distance of about 5-7 mm from the resulting fold, and the inner sections should be completely covered by the top seam.
6. Iron the double seam.

Setting stitch

The layout of the parts in this case is carried out with the front sides inward, while the sections should be connected in one line.

• We carry out the usual seam parallel to the cut line.
• After connection, the upper part is bent and ironed.
• Now you need to sew a line that will run along the front side. It will connect three layers of material at the same time - the bottom part and both seam allowances. If the material is thick enough, then you can offset the bottom edge by half a centimeter. This technique will cause the middle layer of material to overlap and be inside when sewing.
• Basically, a topstitch is used to connect lightweight materials that allow you to fold and iron the allowances, thereby preventing the fabric from fraying.

Hem

This type of connection is used to design the lower edges of products. It can be done in three ways:

• With closed cut. For its implementation, it is necessary to bend the bottom twice to the wrong side. The first bend is made in the size of 5 mm. The second twist depends on the type of tissue and can vary from 5 to 10 mm. The line is laid along the edge of the fold.
• With an open cut. To obtain such a seam, the overlap is folded to the wrong side and a line is made with an indent of 2 mm from the edge of the resulting fold. To perform such a stitch, you can use both a straight and a zigzag shape.
• Narrow seam. For its implementation, a fold is made on the wrong side with a size of 3 mm, which is swept and attached with an indent from the fold of 1.5-2 mm. Excess fabric is cut off almost at the very edge. If we are talking about such a canvas as knitwear, then the process can be stopped at this moment. Such a knitted seam is performed on special machines, on the front side it will have the shape of a regular stitch, and on the wrong side it will look like from an overlock. For plain fabric a second bend is made at a distance of 2-3 mm and another line is superimposed.

Edge seam

To perform it, you will need special strips, which are called facings. They are usually placed in the direction of the thread of the main parts. The shape of the sewn facing both from the front and from the wrong side should be the same.

edging sewing seams may have different designs:

• With closed cut. The seam can be performed in two different ways:

We fold the part and the facing tape facing each other and align the sections. Then bonding is done with a basting. The seam is made, the basting is removed. Allowances are ironed and cut to size 3-5 mm. The cut edges are turned around, the edge is folded over and stitched.

For the second option, the tape for facing is folded in half with the wrong side inward. Then it is superimposed on the front side of the part with the alignment of the sections and stitched. Sections of parts are wrapped in a strip, and a line is applied almost along the very fold of the facing.

• With an open cut. This processing is performed by the first version of the closed-cut edge seam. Only in this case, the edge that wraps the slices does not tuck.

Hand stitches

In most cases, you can sew seams on a typewriter, but hand sewing is also relevant. There are connections that can only be made by hand, such as a basting or copy stitch. All connections of this kind by technology can be divided into four categories. So, let's find out what types of hand seams exist:

• Seam for a needle. Using this technology, a line or stitch, as well as a marking seam, is sewn.
• Needle forward. This includes the performance of such types as gasket, copy, basting connection.
• Hem. This method makes a secret or hemming connection.
• Regional. This category includes overcast, buttonhole seams.

Consider the most common types of hand sewing.

Interlining seam

It is performed using a simple “needle forward” technology, which is ordinary stitches. The needle is inserted at a distance of 2-4 threads and is carried forward until the end of the seam. The sewing direction is from right to left, while the thread tension should be even. Gasket seams are used on the fabric when assembling the parts of the product. They also indicate the middle of the parts.

Basting stitch

At its core, this is a temporary connection that is deleted after the main machine seam. For such work, it is advisable to choose thin threads so that after their removal there are no holes left on the fabric. An elastic thread is ideal for these works. The length of the basting can vary between 7-25 cm, it depends on the parts to be assembled. The stitch size should not exceed 10 mm. This value depends on the thickness of the material to be sewn.

Copy stitch

The purpose of these seams is to symmetrically transfer to paired parts of the required sizes and lines. A copy seam marks marking generatrices, signs of contours. In another way, this seam is called a snare. It is a type of gasket connection. The direction of the thread when laying is from right to left. A seam is made with a double thread, which should be soft, and its length should not exceed 90 cm. As for the stitches, their size should not exceed 5 mm, the same requirement applies to the distance between them. The thread should not be tightened, but remain in the form of a loop up to 15 mm. After finishing the work, it is necessary to push the parts apart and cut the threads between them, for this purpose the loops were left. As a result, symmetrical designations are obtained on both parts, and the patterns will have the same appearance.

Stitch and marking seams

This hand stitching is similar in shape to a regular machine stitch. Work begins on the same technology as the running seam. After the first stitch is completed, the needle pierces the fabric and the thread is brought out to the right side, as for the next step. But now the sewing direction changes in the opposite direction, that is, backwards, and the needle is inserted into the hole obtained by the end of the first stitch. On the right side of the fabric, the seam should look like a regular seam-line, for this it is necessary to lead it in one line, observing the same stitch size. On the wrong side, the stitches partially overlap. If you don't have a sewing machine, you can sew these seams by hand. They will become indispensable in the repair of any item that has a torn machine seam.

The marking seam is created using the same technology, the only difference is that the stitches are made at a distance, not close to each other. This size should be half a stitch.

Hemming seams

They are used to process the bottom edge of the product. For such work, you must first prepare the edge. For this:

• the entire allowance is tucked and swept away at a distance of 5-10 mm from the resulting fold;
• the second time the cut is tucked at the same distance and the second mark is made with an indent of 2-3 mm;
• the resulting lapel is ironed.

Now you can proceed directly to the execution of the hemming seam. The edge of the fold is pierced with a needle and the thread is pulled, now several threads of the main fabric are captured. Then the fold is pierced again, then the process is repeated until the end of the seam. Usually such stitches are applied at a slight angle, there should be 3 stitches per 1 cm of the seam.

Blind hem stitch

In the connection discussed above, the connection stitches are laid over the fold, as a result they will be visible from the inside. If you perform the hemming operation using another technology, you get blind seam.

The preparation of the tucked layer takes place in the same sequence as with a conventional hemming seam. Then the order of execution changes:

• the folded hem allowance is turned to the front side, leaving a section of up to 3 mm;
• the thread is fixed in the bent allowance;
• the needle is inserted under the fold of the edge, which is hemmed (it is necessary to capture about two or three threads of the main fabric);
• the direction of work is from right to left, while the thread should not be tightened too much. The number of stitches that will contain a blind seam, per 1 cm should be two or three pieces.

Overlock seams

Such processing is performed in order to prevent shedding and fraying of the edge of the product. The types of seams of this type are as follows:

• An oblique overcasting seam is made around the edge, and the movement of the needle should be from the bottom up. The direction of work is from right to left, while the density of stitches should be the same as with hemming seams.
• Another type is the cross stitch. At first, the work is carried out in one direction, as with the oblique, having reached the end of the seam, the direction changes in the strictly opposite direction, and the stitches are superimposed across the already stitched ones. In this case, the work does not rotate, but remains in the same position. You can work the edge with the help of loops.

Buttonhole stitches

Basically, this kind of edge processing is used if the fabric has increased flowability. It can also be used to decorate the edges of fabric applications. The buttonhole seam looks very similar to a machine overlock. The sequence of its execution is as follows:

1. We fix the thread on the edge of the cut, the fastening should be quite reliable.
2. Piercing the fabric into right place needle away from you.
3. Without pulling the needle out of the fabric, we pass the thread through the loop and pull it out of the fabric.
4. We tighten the resulting loop, top part should lie on the cut, thereby protecting it from spilling.
5. We carry out the second stitch, the distance from the puncture site to the edge should be within 4-6 mm, and no more than 3 stitches should lie on 1 cm of fabric. You can wrap the thread around the needle when it is in the fabric. Or you need to stretch it to the thread.

In this sequence, a buttonhole seam is performed to the end of the cut. The direction of work is from left to right. This type of seam is often used for knitted fabrics. It is better to use elastic thread in the work. How to make a beautiful and even knitted seam? The answer is simple: try to maintain the same size of punctures.

Types of stitches for embroidery

They can be classified in a separate category, because although they are manual, some are performed using a different technology. For embroidery, the interlining, buttonhole and line stitches discussed above are used. There are other types:

• stalked;
• tambour;
• herringbone;
• goat.

All of them belong to the simplest contour seams and serve as an auxiliary element. More complex stitches for embroidery are two separate directions, in the process of which some auxiliary elements are used.

Stitch stitch embroidery

Such a seam is used as a separate element for decorating floral ornaments, flowers, buds, stems, leaves. Also, the stalk seam is used for edging already finished parts embroidery as a finishing element. Very often, capital letters are embroidered in this technique.

This seam is performed as follows:

• A thread is fastened from the left edge and brought out to the front side.
• We step 3 mm and stick the needle to form the first stitch. While embroidering, the movement is performed from left to right. To obtain a correct seam, the point of the needle must be directed to the left side.
• The needle comes out in the middle of the future stitch. Make sure that the needle does not split the thread in the loop.
• We stretch the thread so that the stitch is aligned.
• Using the same technology, we perform the next step, and so on until the end of the seam length.

If it is necessary to make a curved line according to the drawing, we tilt the stitches so that the direction falls on the outer line. When filling a certain contour, the stem seam must be started from the same side.

chain stitch

It consists of a continuous series of loops that come out of one another and line up. The thread is fixed on the canvas, and the beginning of work takes place on the front side. The thread is placed in the loop in the direction from left to right. The needle pierces the fabric in the place from which the thread came out after fastening, and is withdrawn at such a distance as the size of the loop should be. The needle is brought out in the middle of the laid loop, and the thread should be under the needle. Such an embroidery element is used in complex patterns to form stripes or to sew contours.

Cross stitch

Stitches for embroidery of this type are very popular. With their help, you can create whole masterpieces in the form of paintings. For such embroidery, a special material is used - canvas, it has a pronounced cellular structure, which ensures the production of equally even crosses. Consider the process of creating this seam:

1. We fix the thread and sew an oblique stitch from the bottom up.
2. We pierce the fabric from the wrong side at the level of the lower end of the first stitch and bring the thread to the front side, the direction is from left to right.
3. We carry out the next oblique stitch and repeat this sequence until required amount crosses. As a result, the first half of the pattern is obtained.
4. On the last cross we fix the thread in the lower left corner and change the direction of embroidery in the opposite direction.
5. We carry out the next oblique stitch from the lower right point to the upper left, overlapping the previous stitch made in the other direction.
6. We bring the needle down to the front side and repeat the process. The “cross” seam should end in the place from which it was started.

satin stitch embroidery

The concept of "smooth" means the execution of the pattern with very even stitches, directed in a straight line or at an angle. The types of seams of this pattern are quite diverse. So, they are simple, colored, linen, monochrome, etc. Regardless of which pattern is chosen for embroidery, you need to start with the fact that it must be transferred to the fabric using a carbon paper. The contour of the pattern is sheathed with stitches made with a needle forward. Then you can start filling in the pattern. A stitch is sewn with large stitches between the finished contours. Such a filling is called a flooring. The stitches of the decking should overlap the contour lines. To get a sufficiently embossed pattern, it is necessary to apply stitches with a higher density. In order for the pattern to be performed to be even and beautiful, it is impossible to tighten the fabric with stitches during the execution of the pattern.

Welded metal joints are among the main methods of fastening structures used in everyday life and production. This is a very reliable method of obtaining a single design, which is also relatively cheap.

Bonds of this type are formed by melting the metal in the joint area and its subsequent crystallization upon cooling. Their quality depends on the correct choice of the operating mode of the electric welding machine, electrode, seam penetration. This is regulated by current regulations, as well as standards. They indicate all types of welds, as well as the types of joints and their characteristics.

Numerous metals have their own welding features, different working conditions, requirements for fastening. For them, the corresponding types of electric welded joints are used. When welding metal elements, the main types of electric welding fasteners are used, which are discussed below.

Classification

Welding joints are divided into several varieties, depending on their features. The classification of welds covers the whole range of their use. According to the external parameter, they are:

• convex type (with reinforcement);
• concave (loose design);
• flat type (normal).

According to the type of execution, they are found one-sided, as well as double-sided, according to the number of passes by the electrode: single-pass, double-pass. In addition, there are single-layer methods of penetration and two-layer ones.

The length of suture fastenings are:

• unilateral with intermittent step;
• solid unilateral;
• spot (with contact electric welding);
• double-sided chain;
• bilateral checkerboard order.

Separation by spatial arrangement:

• horizontal, lower;
• vertical, ceiling;
• in a boat;
• semi-horizontal execution;
• semi-ceiling type;
• semi-vertical.

By the force vector:

• longitudinal (flank) - the force has a vector parallel to the penetration;
• transverse - the force acts perpendicularly;
• combined - a kind of frontal, as well as flank;
• oblique - the impact occurs at an angle.

According to the purpose and functions, electric welding penetrations are durable, as well as firmly tight, sealed. By width, they are distinguished into a thread type, not exceeding the diameter of the electric welding electrode rod and broadened, performed using oscillatory movements when welding in the transverse direction.

To simplify the understanding of the classification and application of certain varieties, a special table has been compiled.

All types of seams have a strict designation in accordance with GOST. The drawings use special icons that contain complete information about the type of fastening and its method of execution. For those who are thinking of seriously engaging in welding work at a professional level, you should additionally study the drawing symbols of welded fasteners.

Varieties of welds

Depending on the material used, the thickness, as well as the design features, various types of welds are used. For this, it is necessary to undergo the necessary theoretical training. This will allow you to better understand the specifics of welding parts and avoid defects in work. Novice welders often do not sufficiently weld the joints, which affects the weak mechanical resistance of the joints. Choosing correct modes work and types of welding, it is possible to obtain welds of sufficient strength, as well as quality. Welder training is not only about practical exercises, but also in theoretical training with the study of requirements, norms and rules, as well as including the types of welding joints and the equipment used. Knowledge of the principles of using certain electric welding fasteners, the technique for their production, the joints will be very strong and durable.

Butt

This connection option is the most used among other types of welding seams. This butt welding is used on end sections, pipes or sheet structures. To obtain it, a minimum amount of time, material and effort is spent. These butt fasteners have some features of the seams. On thin sheet metal, welding is carried out without beveling the edges.

Products with a large thickness of the joints require preliminary preparation of the joints, which consists in beveling them to increase the depth of welding penetration. This is necessary when the thickness of metal products is over 8 mm and up to 12 mm. Thicker sections must be joined by double-sided welding with a preliminary bevel of the edges. Butt welding is most often performed on products in a horizontal plane.

T-shaped

These types of electric welding connections are made as a regular letter "T". They connect objects of the same or different thicknesses, on which the width of the weld depends. In addition, these types are used one- or two-sided, which is affected by the characteristics of the bond. When working with metal elements of various thicknesses, the electrode is held in an inclined position at an angle of about 60 degrees. The welding process can be greatly simplified by using tacks, as well as “boat” welding. This method significantly reduces the occurrence of undercuts. The tee seam is applied in one welding pass. In addition to manual arc welding, automatic electric welding machines are widely used for this type.

Lap

This method is used for welding sheet metal with a thickness of up to 12 mm. The sections to be joined are overlapped and welded along the joints on both sides. Do not allow moisture to enter inner part welded structure. To strengthen the bond, full welding is performed around the perimeter.

With this welding, the formation of a connecting joint occurs between the end face of one product and the surface of another. With this type of welding seams and joints, the consumption of materials increases, which must be taken into account in advance. Before starting work, you should align the sheet structures and take care of their good pressing together.

corner

These connections include fastenings of elements made at a certain angle to each other. They are characterized by the use of preliminary bevels to ensure the best penetration of the seam. This will increase the depth of the welding joint, which will increase the reliability of the structure. To enhance the strength, two-sided welding of metal products is used, while gaps in the joined edges are not allowed. These types of electric welds are characterized by increased use of the deposited metal volume.

Ceiling

Welding with a ceiling seam, the seam of which is located above the welder, is one of the most difficult types of electric welding. It is applied by intermittent welding with a small value of electric current. Vertical and ceiling connections are very difficult, so not all welders can perform them with sufficient quality. They are used in places where it is not possible to change the position of the welded structures. These are pipes, various metal structures, as well as ceiling beams and channels at construction sites. The specifics of performing ceiling seams, a video with which will explain the nuances, can be mastered in constant practice.

Weld geometry

Having studied the numerous types and methods of obtaining joints by welding, it is necessary to familiarize yourself with the geometry of the joints, which will help photos of the welds.

The main parameters of the seam joint include its width - e, welding thickness - c, bulge - q, gap - b, penetration depth - h, and also the thickness of the material to be welded - S.

For corner joints, the following designations are used: convexity - q, thickness - a, leg - k and calculated height - p.

Various methods of applying welds, their numerous types, as well as the parameters of the prepared edges, affect the amount of use of the deposited and base metals. Its amount can differ markedly when any calculated values ​​are changed.

Types of welded joints are characterized by a shape factor, which is calculated by the ratio of the width to the thickness of the seam joint. For butt fastenings, this parameter is in the range of 1.2-2 (boundary values ​​- 0.8-4). The bulge factor is calculated by the ratio of the width to the bulge, the value of which should be from 0.8 to 4.

Welding metal materials at an angle relative to each other requires precise adherence to the geometry of the seam. The reliability of the connection, as well as its durability of use, directly depends on the quality of welding, compliance with the required parameters.

Types of control

From the high-quality performance of electrofusion bonding envy further operation of the structure. A variety of defects significantly reduce the strength and reduce the period of use of the product. To prevent marriage, as well as to prevent emergencies various types of control of welded seams are applied. These include an external examination, which can identify violations and their types at a visual level, as well as the use of special equipment to determine hidden defects welds.

Control methods are divided into indestructible and destructible. When using the first method, the strength of the welded joint is determined without changing it appearance, parameters. Destructible methods are used in the mass production of structures using the same type of electric welding. This makes it possible to detect internal violations of welding fasteners with high accuracy.

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