Any girl, regardless of her age, loves dolls. They are so beautiful and different: soft, rag, rubber, plastic. They can be dressed in all sorts of clothes, combed and styled. Nowadays, handmade toys are becoming increasingly popular; this is becoming a real trend. Moreover, working on them will be quick, and most importantly, interesting and easy. A crocheted doll will be a wonderful gift for any child.
You can let your imagination fly by choosing what threads to make a doll from (acrylic, cotton), what filler to choose, what color your creation will be. Through this process you can find out your Creative skills and potential.
Where to begin
First of all, you need to decide what kind of doll you want to see at the end of the work. Now there are many ready-made schemes that contain complete and clear description, manuals and work plans. Ready-made schemes You don’t have to use it, you can create something of your own. Come up with clothes for her: sew or knit a dress, skirt, hat, sundress, overalls, shoes and any other accessory. Experienced needlewomen can make things for the doll such as shoes or house slippers. Here everything will depend solely on your imagination.
What skills will be needed to create a doll:
- You need to master the technique of knitting an amigurumi ring, because it is on its basis that almost all elements of small toys are knitted. Thanks to this technique, the bases of round parts are obtained without holes. And it looks much neater.
- You must be able to knit without lifting loops in a spiral. When knitting with lifting loops, a seam will remain. When it can be hidden, for example, under a doll’s hat or hair, there’s nothing wrong with that. But on the legs or arms, the seam does not look professional.
- Decide what kind of eyes you want to make for your doll. They can add specialness and realism to your creation. You can buy ready-made eyes or beads in the store; this is suitable for beginner needlewomen. But eyes drawn using a special technique or embroidered will look completely different.
- If you decide to create a frame doll, you will additionally need to master working with wire.
And most importantly, you should always start work with desire and a great mood.
Yarn selection
First you need to select the threads. Today, stores offer a very wide variety of threads. Here are the main ones suitable for knitting dolls:
- The most popular, which contains 45% polyacrylic and 55% cotton. From this thread you can knit all the elements of clothing and the doll itself. It does not twist, does not stretch and is quite soft;
- Mercerized 100% cotton. The thread is smooth, shines a little, and holds its shape very well. The canvas turns out smooth and does not look rough. When creating clothes for dolls, mercerized cotton needs to be knitted looser, as it can become prickly. This will not be necessary for toy clothes;
- Cotton-stitch. In this yarn, 2% lyra is added to cotton. It is convenient to knit from it, but you should not stuff the toy tightly. The canvas will stretch when stuffed and ultimately it will not look neat;
- There are also textured yarns. There are cotton grass, yarn with wool in the composition, yarn similar to terry towel. It is important that this is not a very suitable material for beginners; the loops are difficult to stretch and count.
Knitting process
Consider a master class on creating an unusual and original doll with hair Pink colour. It will work out small size, so very little yarn will be spent.
Materials you will need:
- threads (coral, pink, maybe orange, gray, green and beige - close to flesh-colored);
- hook (1.5-2.5 mm);
- filler. One of the simplest is cotton wool and natural filler (fluff, wool), but they are practically not used anymore. The best option there will be padding polyester and holofiber;
- eyes. You can use ready-made purchased ones, regular buttons or knit it yourself;
- accessories. Use any at your discretion: hair ties, hairpins, flowers, handbag.
On a note! This doll can change her hairstyle (braids, ponytails), which is a definite plus.
Let's move on to the diagram and description of knitting a doll at home with your own hands.
First, the head for the doll is knitted.
Then the hands are knitted.
And the final stage will be knitting the dress and attaching the hair to the doll’s head.
The work of making your unique doll is complete! You can please your child with a wonderful new doll.
Video on the topic of the article
Amigurumi - traditional Japanese technology knitting, which results in the creation of small humanoid toys and animals. Most often these are tiny animals or dolls. Cute toys are often made with exaggerated big head small limbs, which gives them additional charm. An amigurumi doll is crocheted using the most ordinary hook, detailed diagrams You can find it on the Internet or come up with an analogy yourself.
Learning to crochet an amigurumi doll: patterns to get started
Any amigurumi toy begins with knitting magic ring or amigurumi rings. There is nothing complicated in its execution; it only requires a little practice.
To start working, you need to wrap the working thread around the index finger of your left hand. This must be done with your right hand, holding the tip in your fingers. working thread. When the turn is made, then on the left index finger What remains is a twisted loop. Now a hook is inserted into this loop and the thread that stretches to the ball is pulled through the ring onto the hook. Now the hook is inserted into the loop again and a classic single crochet is performed.
Getting started is almost always 6 loops in an amigurumi ring. To make the loop tighter, you can wrap the tip of the thread around your finger not just once, but several times.
When the stitches are knitted, you need to pull the tip and tighten the ring tightly. The result will be 6 loops, tightly tied together with thread.
Features of work
IN amigurumi technique It is customary to use a smaller hook size than recommended by the manufacturer for the selected yarn. For example, if it is advised to knit a product using No. 3, then for amigurumi it is necessary to use No. 2 or even less. This is done so that the knitting is tight and there are no gaps through which you can see the filler.
Knitting is not done in a circle, as is common in most techniques, but in a spiral. This means there is no need to join stitches at the end of the row. However, it is important to keep track of the beginning and end of the work row. The work often involves adding and decreasing stitches. If you make a mistake, the toy will not work. It’s convenient to use markers – special pins, threads – to make notes on your work. contrasting color, which are easy to remove.
Knitting an amigurumi toy using the description is completely easy. The main thing is to carefully count the loops.
The master class will help you knit such a cute doll.
For the work you need yarn: flesh-colored, pieces of thread for hair and clothes, a hook, padding polyester, a needle, eyes, beads.
Explanations: in brackets at the end the number of loops that is obtained in the row after additions or decreases is indicated.
Head.Knitted with body yarn.
2 r.: 6 2 from 1st (12).
3 p.: (sc., 2 from 1st, 18).
4 p.: (2 sc., 2 from 1st, 24).
5 p.: (3 sc., 2 from 1st, 30).
6 p.: (4 sc., 2 from 1st, 36).
7 p.: (5 sc., 2 from 1st, 42).
8 p.: (6 sc., 2 from 1st, 48).
9 p.: (7 sc., 2 from 1st, 54).
10 r.: (8 sc., 2 from 1st, 60).
11-23 r.: 60 sc..
24 r.: (8 sc., 2 in 1, 54).
25 r.: (7 sc., 2 in 1, 48).
26 r.: (6 sc., 2 in 1, 42).
27 r.: (5 sc., 2 in 1, 36)
28 r.: (4 sc., 2 in 1, 30).
29 r.: (3 sc., 2 in 1, 24).
30 r.: (2 sc., 2 in 1, 18).
31 r.: (1 sc., 2 in 1, 12).
When the head is tied, it should be stuffed with padding polyester and drawstrings should be made where the eyes will be located.
Then the head is stuffed with filler and eyes, eyelashes, mouth and nose are inserted or embroidered.
Body.The doll will be dressed in a sundress, so in order to save money, you can start knitting in the color chosen for the sundress. You can also knit clothes separately, then the color is flesh-colored, as on the head.
1 r.: 6 sc. into an amigurumi ring.
2 rubles: 6 2 from 1st (12)
3 p.: (sc., 2 from 1st, 18).
4-5 r.: 18 sc.
6 p.: (2 sc., 2 from 1st, 24).
7 r.: 24 sc..
8 p.: (3 sc., 2 from 1st, 30).
9 r.: 30 sc.
10 r.: (4 sc., 2 from 1st, 36).
11 r.: 36 sc.
12 p.: (5 sc., 2 from 1st, 42).
13-14 r.: 42 sc.
15 r.: (6 sc., 2 from 1st, 48).
16 r.: 48 sc.
17 p.: (7 sc., 2 from 1st, 54).
18r.: 54 sc.
Now you can change the color of the thread to the one that will be the pantaloons, or knit further in flesh color.
19 r.: 54 sc.
20 r.: (8 sc., 2 from 1st, 60).
21 r.: 60 sc.
22 r.: (4 sc., 2 in 1, 50).
23 r.: (3 sc., 2 in 1, 40).
24 r.: (2 sc., 2 in 1, 30).
25 r.: (4 sc., 2 in 1, 24).
26 r.: (3 sc., 2 in 1, 20).
27 r.: (2 sc., 2 in 1, 16).
28 rubles: decreases 8 times.
The body is stuffed, the thread is tightened and the tip is hidden inside the body.
Hands.Hands knit from the palm, begin knitting with flesh-colored yarn.
1 r.: 6 sc. into an amigurumi ring.
2 r.: 6 2 from 1st (12).
3 p.: (sc., 2 from 1st, 18).
4 - 5 r.: 18 sc.
6 p.: (7 sc., 2 in 1, 16).
7 p.: 16 sc.
Knitting a finger:
8 r.: 6 sbn., 4 ssn with one vertex in the next loop, 9 sbn.
9 p.: (6 sc., 2 in 1, 14).
10 r.: 14 sc.
11 p.: (5 sc., 2 in 1, 12).
Now, if necessary, the color changes to the one chosen for the blouse.
12 r.: 12 sc.
13 r.: 12 sc. for the back half of the loop.
13 – 21 r.: 12 sc.
The finished handle is filled with padding polyester and sewn to the body.
Knitting starts from the foot.
Foot.2 r.: 6 2 from 1st (12).
3 p.: (sc., 2 from 1st, 18).
4 p.: (2 sc., 2 from 1st, 24).
5 p.: (3 sc., 2 from 1st, 30).
6 -11 r.: 30 sc.
12 p.: (13 sc., 2 in 1, 28).
13 r.: 28 sc. 14 p.: (12 sc., 2 in 1, 26).
15 r.: 26 sc.
16 p.: (11 sc., 2 in 1, 24).
17 r.: 24 sbn.
18 r.: (10 sc., 2 in 1, 22).
19 r.: 22 sc.
20 r.: (9 sc., 2 in 1, 20).
The foot is stuffed with filler.
21 rubles: 6 decreases, tighten the hole and hide the thread.
At the narrowing point, 15 loops are cast on in a circle using the same color.
Top of the sock.1 – 6 r.: 15 sc.
Here the thread color is changed.
7 r.: 15 sc. behind the back wall.
8 – 19 r.: 15 sc.
The thread color changes to the color chosen for the pantaloons.
20 r.: 15 sc. behind the back wall.
21 r.: (4 sc., 2 from 1st, 18).
22-25 r.: 18 sc.
Shoes.You can simply knit the sole according to the pattern.
5 r.: 43 sc. behind back half loops.
6-9 r.: 43 sc.
10 rubles: 8 sc, 2 half-columns, 8 dec, pst, 2 half-columns, 15 sc. (35).
11 r.: 8 sbn., 12 half-columns, 15 sbn. (35).
12 r.: 8 sbn., 2 pst, 4 dec., 2 half-columns, 9 sbn., 3 decrease sbn. (28).
Nose.It is necessary to knit with the yarn used to knit the body.
1 r.: 6 sc. into a magic ring.
Row 2: row of 6 stitches.
The nose is sewn to the face using the long end of the thread.
A video on the topic of the article will offer more ideas and explanations for the work.
Video on the topic of the article
Gaining more and more popularity japanese knitting amigurumi toys. Distinctive feature of these products is big size head in relation to the body and limbs. This gives additional charm and charm to the toys. Doll schemes amigurumi crochet They will help needlewomen create more than one soft, cute friend for the mood or as a gift for family and friends, and will also delight the children.
Features of the technology
A characteristic feature of the technology knitting amigurumi is the knitting density. This is achieved by replacing the diameter of the hook with a smaller one. For example, if the yarn manufacturer recommends using a No. 3 hook, then a No. 2 hook is used to work with this material.
The knitting should be tight so that the filling with which the toy is stuffed does not show through.
The basis of the work is the so-called amigurumi ring. Thanks to it, there are no holes in the round parts of toys. The neatness of the ring depends on how carefully the ring is made. appearance products. There is nothing complicated here, but practice is required.
First, you need to wrap the working thread around the index finger of your left hand a couple of times. This is done with the right hand, which contains the working thread. When the turns are wound, a spiral remains on the left index finger, which we carefully remove from the finger, forming a loop. Next, the working thread is pulled through this loop with a hook and pulled through the ring onto the hook. Then the hook is threaded through the loop again and a regular single crochet is made.
Usually 6 or 8 loops are knitted into an amigurumi ring. A few turns of the thread around your finger for the first loop just ensure the tightness of the knitting.
Having knitted the stitches, the ring must be tightened by pulling the thread past the tip. You will get a circle of six loops tied with thread.
Toys are knitted not in a circle, as in most techniques, but in a spiral. This means that the rows of the product do not close, but smoothly transition from one to another. Since the loops in the product are either added or subtracted, you must count them very carefully, otherwise the toy will not work. To simplify this task, craftswomen use various markers in the form of special paper clips or threads of a different color. The main thing is that the basting is easy to remove.
Knitted doll
After reading the description of the process, even a beginner can knit a wonderful toy. Yarn will be needed for this work various colors, hook, knitting markers, filler for soft toys, pieces of thread for hair or washcloth, beads for eyes, enthusiasm and a burning desire to have a pet.
The master class below will help you understand the intricacies of the work and knit such a cute ballerina.
Knitting begins with the head, which goes into the body. They are fused and knitted in a spiral. The ballet tutu is not removable and is part of the body. At this point there will be a change of yarn from nude to pink.
We knit a head from beige yarn:
1st row: 6 sc in amigurumi ring (we knit two air loops, then 6 sc in the first loop, we get a circle of 6 sc). 2nd row: 6 increases (12). 3rd row: *1 sc inc* 6 times (18). 4th row: *2 sc inc* 6 times (24). Row 5: *3 sc inc* 6 times (30). 6th row: * 4 sc inc * 6 times (36). Row 7: *5 sc inc* 6 times (42). Rows 8-15: 42 sc in each row. Row 16: *5 sc dec* 6 times (36). Row 17: *4 sc dec* 6 times (30). Row 18: *3 sbn* 6 times (24). Row 19: *2 sbn* 6 times (18) - fill the head. Row 20: *1 sc dec* 6 times (12). 21 row: 12 increases (24). Row 22: *3 sc inc* 6 times (30). 23rd row: 30 sc. Change the yarn to pink.
Row 24: make a rib - knit 30 sc with pink thread behind the front walls of the loops of the previous row. Row 25: knit with pink thread back walls loops 23 rows 30 sc. Rows 26-30: 30 sc in each row. 31st row (skirt begins): knit *4 sc inc* 6 times (36) behind the front walls of the loops of the previous row. Row 32: *5 sc inc* 6 times (42). Row 33: knit rapport *skip two loops, 7 double crochets in the 3rd loop, skip two loops, connecting stitch* 7 times. 34th row: we return to the body, to the 30th row, through the connecting posts on the skirt, we knit 30 sc behind the back walls of the loops of the 30th row. Rows 35-36: 30 sc in each row. Row 37: *3 sbn* 6 times (24). Row 38: *2 sc dec* 6 times (18) - stuff the body. Row 39: *sc dec* 6 times (12). Row 40: 6 decreases, close knitting.
Next we knit the legs together with the pointe shoes. The pink and flesh thread will constantly alternate. It is done like this: when there is one single crochet left before the transition, we begin to knit this extreme column in the usual way- we grab the working thread on the hook and get two threads of the same color. To make a smooth color transition, yarn of a different color is picked up with a hook (where there are now two working loops) and pulled into a loop with a new color through two working loops.
It is necessary to ensure that the constrictions different colors Inside, the legs were not very compressed, since when stuffing the doll with filler, compression will appear and the leg will not be stuffed tightly.
Let's start knitting the legs, which are also knitted in the round. Let's start with pink yarn: Row 1: 6 sc in amigurumi ring. 2nd row: 6 increases (12). 3rd row: 12 sc. 4th row: pink thread: 1 sc; body thread: 4 sc; pink thread: 2 sbn, increase, 1 sbn, increase, 2 sbn (total we get 14 sbn in a row). 5th row: body thread: 6 sc; pink thread: 7 sc; body thread: 1 sc (14). 6th row: body thread: 7 sc; pink thread: 1 sc, 2 decreases; body thread: 2 sc (12). 7th row: body thread: 8 sc, 1 decrease, 2 sc (11). Row 8: body thread: 8 sc, 1 decrease, 1 sc (10) - cut the pink thread and fasten it. From now on we will only knit flesh color. We fill our feet, Special attention paying attention to the heel. Rows 9-14: 10 sc, cut the thread, fasten, leave the tip for sewing, stuff the leg to the end. We knit two parts.
We knit the handles: 1st row: 4 sc in an amigurumi ring (you need to try to “turn out” the amigurumi circle in order to knit the next row). 2nd row: 4 increases (8). Rows 3-4: 8 sc in each row. Row 5: *2 sbn* 2 times (6) - fill the palm. Rows 6-10: 6 sc, cut the thread and fasten, leaving the tip for sewing. We fill the pen. Don't forget that the doll has two arms.
Let's start with the doll's hairstyle. A bun is a sphere wrapped in a thread of the same color that it is tied with. Knitted like a regular ball, but without both poles. When the poles connect, you will get a flattened oval, which after stuffing will take the shape of a donut: Row 1: 12 chain stitches are closed in a circle, then we knit in a circle. 2nd row: *1 sc inc* 6 times (18). 3rd row: *2 sc inc* 6 times (24).
4th row: *3 sc inc* 6 times (30). Rows 5-8: 30 sc in each row. Row 9: *3 sbn* 6 times (24). Row 10: *2 sc dec* 6 times (18). Row 11: *1 sc dec* 6 times (12), cut the thread, leaving a longer tip for sewing the “poles” of the ball. We sew several columns, fill the sewn area with padding polyester and repeat until the circle is completed. Then we wrap the resulting ball with thread of the same color.
For the bun, you can tie a bow, which will add beauty and elegance to the toy. 1st row: close 20 air loops in a circle, then knit in a circle. Rows 2-6: 20 sc in each row. We wrap the resulting cylinder in the middle and get a bow. We fasten the thread. Then we do the ballerina’s hair.
We take threads of the same color from which the bun was made and cut them into 20 cm pieces. We determine the front part of the head along the seam on the body at the junction of the beige and pink threads. Where there is no seam is in front. In the 7th row, we fasten the first “strand” of hair in the center of the front, pulling the prepared section past the center and securing it. So we arrange 9 strands. At the back of the head in the 16th row we fasten 7 strands.
In the same way we secure the strands around the entire circumference of the head. It will be enough to make a row of hair in the front, and several rows on the sides, so that after collecting the hair in a ponytail, bald patches do not appear. You can first estimate and outline the curls to make it easier to understand where to attach them. We leave the top of the head bald. Once the hair is gathered into a bun, it will close.
After the hair is pulled into a ponytail, the excess length needs to be trimmed and a bun secured on top.
We attach a bow to the hairstyle and lace up the pointe shoes.
At the final stage, we revive the doll by giving it a face. You can use beads for the eyes, after painting them brown or black. We embroider the mouth. The ballerina is ready!
This toy will be a wonderful gift not only for any little girl, but also for an adult who dances.
Video on the topic of the article
You can learn more about the amigurumi technique and the secrets of mastery in the following videos:
Crocheting is a fun hobby. Many ladies while away the evenings by picking up a hook and a ball of yarn they like. Today there are many techniques and ways to create beautiful things using ordinary tools. Some people prefer knitting needles, but it is crocheting that creates unforgettable patterns and openwork napkins. You can also use it to knit cute animals and other colorful characters.
Who are amigurumi
At first you wouldn’t be able to tell that this Japanese word refers to unusual creatures. They make them with my own hands. Amigurumi that turn out especially well are quite simple. As a rule, animals consist of circles and ovals.
It doesn't matter which character you want to associate with. It all depends on your imagination. You can create little men or animals with huge heads and bulging eyes. Monsters are popular among young people in Japan. As a rule, these are heroes of famous cartoons. Fans happily knit the components of their idol and assemble them into a single structure. After all, it’s not at all difficult to crochet amigurumi toys. The schemes, as we said, are very simple. Let's look at this with an example.
Tools for knitting little creatures
Before you start work, you need to prepare everything necessary tools and materials. After this, you can create crocheted amigurumi. Schemes for beginners will be discussed in the article below. So, what do you need to buy to create small knitted masterpieces:
- Yarn of any colors, but of small thickness.
- The hook is selected depending on the yarn. The finished canvas should not have large holes between the posts. Otherwise it will look ugly.
- Sintepon for stuffing amigurumi.
- Decorative elements: buttons, beads, rhinestones and beads.
- Product tinting products: blush, pencils or
Knitting technique
Every needlewoman can crochet amigurumi. The circuits for such products are primitive and uncomplicated. First you need to wrap the selected yarn around your finger in two turns. We knit six stitches into the ring and carefully tighten the ring. Knitting occurs in circles. By adding new loops and removing old ones, the desired shape is given to the details of the character.
Only through experimentation will you understand in which place it is worth making an addition, and where it is better not to change the shape.
Green monster: description
Now we will tell you how to crochet amigurumi dolls. We don't need any diagrams for this monster, since the process is quite simple.
It is better to start knitting from the head, it is twice the size of the body. To do this, we collect a chain of air loops. Their number depends on the size of the future creature. In this case, a chain of five loops was assembled. They close themselves in a circle. Each row is knitted with double crochets. Don't forget to add loops to make the monster's head expand. To do this, you need to knit two in one loop. As soon as you reach the middle, the workpiece should be reduced with each row. The reduction occurs due to the fact that they are made which will have a common vertex. Thus, we move to the very edge. Having tied a knot, cut the thread.
The body is knitted according to the same principle. Only the diameter of the workpiece will be smaller. As you can see, they are very easy to create amigurumi toys crochet Schemes are not even required. Next we knit the legs and arms. The upper limbs are slightly thinner than the lower limbs. Keep this in mind when creating your character. Remember how many chain stitches you are casting on, otherwise one arm will be thicker than the other.
We still need to knit the ears of our cosmic creature from black yarn. They can be knitted using the rectangle method. Tie a square and sew the edges. The eyes should not cause complications either. The main thing is to maintain symmetry. Decorate the character better beads or additional stitches of thread. This is how it turned out cute amigurumi crochet The diagrams weren't even useful.
Now you know that it is not at all difficult to crochet amigurumi. You don't even need diagrams for this process. An advantage is the fact that you can use leftover yarn from the main knitting. Now let's give some useful tips that will simplify your creative process:
What are small toys for?
This question is logical. It is inconvenient to play with such toys, but they are ideal as souvenirs. It's always fun to create crocheted amigurumi toys. Schemes for clothing of heroes can be very different.
Most often, such cute animals become keychains or decorate a bag. Particularly creative and brave guys attach knitted creatures to clothes and hats. It's always nice to give such a little person as a gift. Especially if you know about the preferences of the recipient. Perhaps he is crazy about some cartoon or computer game. Let a whole army of knitted monsters settle on his table.
Children also love these characters. They are happy to use them as a brooch or pendant. Still looks great christmas tree, decorated with such cozy “balls”. Amigurumi will fill any space and decorate flower pots. They can sit on window sills, shelves or fit on your finger.
Tiny amigurumi
There are also craftsmen who are able to knit tiny heroes.
This is real talent. How less amigurumi, the more interesting they look. Of course, knitting them is also quite difficult. But the result will please everyone who can create tiny amigurumi with their own hands. Create and delight others with your talent.
The Sonechka doll was one of the first that I got from the moment I became interested in how to crochet a frame doll with a relief figure. The diagram is quite voluminous and contains not only a description of a crochet doll, but also a master class on knitting clothes for a doll. To avoid confusion, I will divide the MK into several parts: body, cloth , face embroidery. Let's start with the body. Link to the following parts at the end of the article.
Materials and tools used in knitting a frame doll:
- Yarn 100% cotton (YarnArt Violet) for the body.
- Yarn Gazzal Baby Cotton (analogous to YarnArt Jeans) for pajama onesies.
- Wool blend yarn for hair.
- Floss black, blue, white, pink for face embroidery.
- Hooks size 1-1.25 mm for body, 2 mm for overalls.
- Wire for frame.
- Filling – holofiber.
- Needle for stitching.
- Pins for marking.
Legend:
- sc - single crochet
- purl sc – purl single crochet.
- VP - air loops
- dec – knit two sc together.
- inc – knit two sc in one loop.
- ss – connecting column.
- psn – half double crochet.
- dc - double crochet.
- x n times – how many times to repeat the designated area, where n is a number.
Start knitting with your hands so that later you don’t need to break the thread if you have one skein of flesh-colored yarn.
IMPORTANT! Knitting pattern. If you plan to knit inside out, then mirror the pattern.
Right hand
Start knitting by hand so that you don’t have to break the knitting thread again later.
- Amigurumi ring (6)
- inc, 2 sc, inc, 2 sc (8)
- 8 sc
- 7 sbn, 4 ch, from the second loop of the chain 3 connecting columns, 1 sbn in the 8th loop of the 2nd row (8)
- 2 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec (6)
- 6 sc
- 6 sc
- 6 sc
- 6 sc
- 2 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc (8) – increases on the sides of the arm
- 8 sc
- 3 sc, inc, 3 sc, inc (10) – increases on the sides of the arm
- 10 sc
- 10 sc
- 10 sc
Let's mark the place of the elbow; this place may differ between different needlewomen due to the nature of the knitting and yarn, so I'll note the nuances that you need to focus on. In the 17th row, make decreases on the sides of the arm, knit the 18th row without changes. Row 19 – increases on the sides. And this is how I have it:
- 3 sbn, dec, 3 sbn, dec (8)
- 8 sc
- 3 sc, inc, 3 sc, inc (10)
- 10 sc
- inc, 4 sc, inc, 4 sc (12) - increases on the sides of the arm
- 12 sc
- 12 sc
- 12 sc
- 12 sc
- 12 sc
- 12 sc
- 12 sc
- 12 sc
- 12 sc
Left hand
- Amigurumi ring (6)
- inc, 2 sc, inc, 2 sc (8)
- 8 sc
- 5 sbn, 4 ch, 3 ss along the ch chain, 3 sbn (8)
- 7 sc, skip a finger (finger on the outside of the knitting), 1 sc (8)
- 2 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec (6)
- 6 sc
- 6 sc
- 6 sc
- 6 sc
- 2 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc (8) increases on the sides of the arm
- 8 sc
- 4 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc (10) increases on the sides of the arm
- 10 sc
- 10 sc
- 10 sc
- dec, 3 sc, dec, 3 sc (8)
- 8 sc
- inc, 3 sc, inc, 3 sc (10)
- 10 sc+
- inc, 5 sc, inc, 3 sc (12) - increases on the sides of the arm
- 12 sc
- 12 sc
- 12 sc
- 12 sc
- 12 sc
- 12 sc
- 12 sc
- 12 sc
- 12 sc
Leave the knitting open, break the thread.
Legs
- Amigurumi ring (6)
- (inc, 1 sc) x 3 times (9)
- 9 sc
- 9 sc
- 9 sc, unfold knitting,
- 1 ch, 5 sc, turn around
- 1 ch, 5 sc, turn around
- Ch 1, 5 sc, unfold 1 ch, decrease of 5 loops, ch 1, 2 sc between heel and front, 4 sc in front, 2 sc between heel and front, then knit in the round (10)
- 10 sc
- dec, 8 sc (9) (decrease should be at the back of the leg in the middle)
- 9 sc
- 9 sc
- 9 sc
- 9 sc
- 9 sc
- inc, 1 sc, inc, 6 sc (11) (increases are made in the back center)
At the stage of forming “bulges” and “bulges”, the number of sc at the beginning of the row may vary depending on your knitting density. Follow the instructions on where exactly increases and decreases are made.
- 11 sc
- 11 sc
- 1 sc, inc, 1 sc, inc, 7 sc (13) (increases are made in the back center)
- 13 sc
- 3 sc, inc, 9 sc (14)
- 14 sc
- 14 sc
- 14 sc
- 4 sbn, dec, 8 sbn (13) (decrease in the back center)
- 2 sbn, dec, dec, 7 sbn (11) (decrease in the back center)
- 3 sbn, dec, 4 sbn, inc, 1 sbn (11) (increase in front center, decrease in back center)
- 11 sc
- 11 sc
- 1 sc, inc, inc, inc, inc, 3 sc, dec, 1 sc (14) (increase in back center, decrease in front center)
- 14 sc
- 3 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 5 sc (16) (increase on the sides and slightly back on both sides of the leg)
- 16 sc
- 16 sc
- 16 sc
- 16 sc
- 16 sc
- 16 sc
- 16 sc
- 5 sbn, inc, 4 sbn, inc, 5 sbn (18) (increment on the sides)
- 18 sc
- 18 sc
Tie the second leg.
Body
We combine the legs and continue knitting.
- This row is unifying and corrective; during the knitting process, the position of the beginning of the row can change (this depends on the density of the knitting and the selected yarn). In order for the pattern to be universal for everyone in the future, it is necessary to adjust the position of the legs.
Place your legs next to each other, with the leg with the working thread lying with right side relative to you (i.e. it will be the left leg of the pupa). For convenience, connect the legs with pins, as shown in the photo. To determine the point of connection of the legs, conditionally divide each leg into two parts of 8 (front) and 10 (back) loops, as shown in the diagram below. The arrow indicates the beginning of row 44 after adjustment and merging.
Tie or decrease the required number of loops from each leg of the doll to the point where the legs join. Continue knitting with the working thread, knit to the joining point in the front and continue knitting in a circle along the second leg, reach the left leg and knit 10 sc on it. You will get this picture: 8 sc on the left leg, 8 sc on right leg(front), 10 sc on the right leg, 10 sc on the left leg (back) (total 36 loops in a circle)
- 8 sbn, 8 sbn, 2 sbn, inc x 6 times, 2 sbn, 2 sbn, inc x 6 times, 2 sbn (48)
- 48 sc
- 8 sc, 8 sc, 1 sc, inc, (1 sc, inc) x 5 times, 4 sc, 4 sc, (inc, 1 sc) x 5 times, inc, 1 sc (60)
- 60 sc (8+8 front, 22+22 back)
If the beginning of the row has moved to the side, then adjust so that the front 8+8 sc are clearly in front of the body.
- 8 sbn, 8 sbn, 6 sbn, (dec, 1 sbn) x 3 times, 7 sbn, 7 sbn, (1 sbn, dec) x 3 times, 6 sbn (8, 8,19, 19 = 54)
- 8 sbn, 8 sbn, (2 sbn, dec) x 4 times, 3 sbn, 3 sbn, (dec, 2 sbn) x 4 times (8, 8, 15, 15 = 46)
Shape your buttocks. Sew 5 loops together on each side of the “pit” of the butt so that it holds its shape. The result will be 8, 8, 10, 10 = 36 loops in the round.
Insert the wire casing into the legs and stuff them. Next, stuff the body as you knit.
- dec, 6 sc, 6 sc, dec, (2 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, 2 sc) x 2 times (30)
- 7 sbn, 7 sbn, dec, 5 sbn, dec, 5 sbn, dec (27)
- 27 sc
- 27 sc
- 27 sc
- 27 sc
- 27 sc
- 27 sc
- 27 sc
- 27 sc
- 27 sc
- 27 sc
- 27 sc
Next we will knit the chest, so it is necessary to adjust the beginning of the row. Mark the middle of the doll's chest with a pin (between the loops). Count 10 loops towards the working thread - this will be the beginning of the 64th row, tie and decrease the previous row to it. As a result, you will get the following picture - 5 loops on the left and right sides, 7 loops on the back and 10 loops on the chest.
- 5 sc, inc, inc, inc, 2 sc, 2 sc, inc, inc, inc, 5 sc, 7 sc (33)
- 33 sc
- 33 sc
- 33 sc
- 33 sc
Knitting continues with the arms, at the same time we make a decrease on the chest. Place your arms at your sides. Now the circle consists of the following parts: 7 sc on the back, 5 sc on the left side, 5 sc on the right side and 16 on the chest. Determine 3 loops with inside hands to join (tie to the hand connection mark). On the body, attach them to 3 loops on the sides closer to the chest (I recommend sewing the right arm 1 loop further to the back, since the decreases will cause the knitting to move). You will get the following:
- Knit 2 sbn, 3 sbn together on the arms and body, dec x 8 times, 1 sbn, 3 sbn together on the arms and body, 1 sbn, 7 sbn. (37)
- 1 sbn, dec (1 loop from the back and 1 loop from the hand), (1 sbn, dec, 1 sbn, dec, 2 sbn) on the left hand, 9 sbn on the chest, (2 sbn, dec, 1 sbn, dec, 1 sc) across right hand, dec (1 loop from the hand, 1 loop from the back), 7 sc on the back (31)
- 4 sc, dec, 13, dec, 10 (29)
- 1 sc, (dec, 3 sc) x 4 times, dec, 6 sc (24)
- (1 sc, dec) x 8 times (16)
- dec, dec, 5 sc, dec, dec, 3 sc (12)
- dec, dec, 2 sc, dec, dec, 2 sc (8)
- 8 sc
- 8 sc
Head
Now we knit the head.
- 2 sc, inc, inc, inc, 2 sc, inc (12) – three increases exactly in front, one increase in the center behind
- (1 sc, inc) x 6 times (18)
- (2 sc, inc) x 6 times (24)
- (3 sc, inc) x 6 times (30)
- 2 sc, (inc, 4 sc) x 5 times, inc, 2 sc (36)
- (5 sc, inc) x 6 times (42)
- 3 sbn, (inc, 6 sbn) x 5 times, inc, 3 sbn (48)
- 48 sc
- 48 sc
- 48 sc
- 48 sc
- 48 sc
- 48 sc
- 48 sc
- 48 sc
- 48 sc
- 48 sc
- (6 sc, dec) x 6 times (42)
- (5 sc, dec) x 6 times (36)
At this stage, without stuffing (or stuffing, if that’s more convenient for you), embroider the doll’s face. Step-by-step instruction with photo on the link.
After you finish with the face, tie the head to the end.
- (4 sc, dec) x 6 times (30)
- (3 sc, dec) x 6 times (24)
- (2 sc, dec) x 6 times (18)
- (1 sc, dec) x 6 times (12) Fill with filler
- dec x 6 times (6). Fasten the knitting, break and hide the thread.
Ears
- amigurumi ring (6)
- Ch 1, unfold, inc, inc, ss x 4 times, fasten and break the thread for sewing.
Sew the ears between the 85th and 91st rows, guided by the eyes, the ears should be just below the eyes.
Hair
For the hair I used half-wool, wound in two threads. I took the yarn apart into threads and threaded them between each column on the head, securing it in the usual way: stretching the thread between the columns with a crochet hook, threaded the two ends of the thread into the resulting loop from the other side and tightened. Once I had filled my entire head, I started cutting it. I braided the hair at the bottom at the back and simply cut the rest of my hair shorter with scissors.
The second stage of knitting a frame doll - cloth .
Crochet frame doll Sonechka, part 1: body