In one of the previous articles, I talked about how to preserve a container of household polyurethane foam in order to reuse it. For those who haven't read it, I recommend taking a look. Today I will tell you what to do if construction foam frozen in the tube and the cylinder valve.
Let's imagine this situation: you remembered what was left over from the past apartment or house renovation half-used bottle when it was necessary to “seal up” an unexpectedly discovered gap. Searches in the corners of the bathroom or storage room were successful: the required cylinder was found, but polyurethane foam has dried in the plastic tube. What to do? You should not press the adapter with all your might: best case scenario break off the finger stops, in the worst case, damage the valve and leave the remains of the polyurethane sealant on your clothes and, possibly, the entire room. Also, do not heat the cylinder with hot water or on a gas stove - it may turn out even worse than in the photo at the beginning of the article.
We will act technically and carefully. Firstly: let's prepare a garbage bag, just in case there is a fireman. Secondly: let's wear gloves. It’s better to put the Versace suit aside and put it on simple t-shirt, training pants. Third: prepare acetone (a solvent will also work). Let's consider possible situations, in increasing complexity, the scale of the tragedy, so to speak.
If polyurethane foam has frozen in the supply tube
First of all, we will try to remove the adapter tube by unscrewing it along the thread of the plastic fitting; you should slightly pull the tube upward, towards you. If it doesn’t work out, then don’t be overzealous; if you rip off the valve, foam will splash everything within a meter radius. For this case, we prepared a garbage bag. But let's not be pessimists, in 99% of cases the adapter separates without difficulty.
The removed tube needs to be cleaned with a knitting needle (bicycle, moped, knitting needle) or a piece of wire. Polyurethane sealant does not stick to plastic, so there are no special difficulties. Then we inspect the nozzle of the bottle's release valve. If there is thickened but not frozen foam in the fitting, then clean it with improvised means (a match, a piece of rag, etc.) and then rinse with acetone. The cylinder is ready for use.
Polyurethane foam dried up in the outlet valve bottle
If the cylinder valve is clogged with hardened foam, do not try to clean it with a match or knitting needle - the situation will only worsen. You will need a self-tapping screw with a length of 35 mm, a diameter of 4 mm with a large thread and pliers. Carefully screw in the screw two or three turns so as not to pierce the valve through. Using pliers we pull out the self-tapping screw, and the frozen foam comes out with it. Now the balloon can be used.
Sometimes the sealant hardens in the valve from the inside of the cylinder. I’ll tell you why this happens and what to do in this case in the next article: “A radical way to revive an old balloon with amateur foam.”
What to do if the foam does not come out of the container?
To find out what to do if the foam does not come out of the container, you need to find out the reasons in advance. There may be several reasons.
Hardened foam residue in the valve stem can block the system.
This is usually caused by the cylinder being stored or transported horizontally. Chemical substances in the cylinder connected with moisture, which entered through the outlet valve and sealed it. Gently tapping the valve may help in this case as this may break the adhesive plug around the valve. Depending on storage conditions in warehouses (i.e. high relative humidity), moisture may penetrate into the cylinder over time. Due to the fact that humidity affects the contents in the cylinder: a ring forms at the bottom of the rod frozen foam, between the black rubber valve plug, which acts as a spring, and the stem. If the foam ring is still small and elastic, the valve can be activated by deflecting the stem. If the rod cannot be deflected or cannot be pressed vertically, it is better to return the cylinder to the store and replace it.
The reason may also be that all the gas has escaped due to a defective valve.
The valves used for the production of aerosols are mass products, and it is not possible to test each individually. At high temperature the black rubber stopper becomes elastic and easily allows not only moisture to pass through (see above), but also gas from inside the cylinder. As a result, foam cannot be used (there is no pressure to release the foam from the container).
Q: Poor/slow/little foam comes out of the container.
A: It is necessary that the foam container be kept at a temperature above +15° C for about a day before use (or at +25° C for at least 3-4 hours). Optimal temperature container for maximum foam yield is considered to be 23° C. Before use, any container with polyurethane foam must be shaken well for 30 seconds. If the cylinder is stored at subzero temperatures, due to an increase in the viscosity of the product, it may remain on the walls of the cylinder, and if stored sideways or upside down, the valve may stick.
Q: I heated a can of foam in a bucket of warm water and the foam started to come out well, but then again it started to come out poorly/slowly/little.
A: A bucket of water is good if the water is not very hot. Apparently, the product near the walls of the container warmed up and began to “squish”, but the bulk of the product remained in a thick state and clogged the valve upon exiting. The issue can be resolved by alternating for 15-20 minutes: shaking the bottle well and warming it up in warm water.
Q: I kept a can of foam for an hour in front of the heater, it is already hot, but the foam still comes out poorly/slowly/little.
A: It’s good that it didn’t explode, because it says: Store at +5:+30 °C in vertical position. Do not heat over open fire, heaters, burners, etc. to temperatures above +50 °C due to the risk of explosion. Pressurized cylinder! And the foam may not come out well due to the fact that: the valve is “stuck” - part of the thick product has clogged the passages on the valve. It is recommended to release a very small part of the gas in a vertical position with the valve up; if the gas has penetrated the passages of the valve, then shake the container well and continue working. In a cylinder, when overheated, the aging process of the product is accelerated and local clots can form, which in turn lead to sticking of the valve. Perhaps due to the increase in pressure, as a result of overheating of the cylinder, a significant part of the displacing and/or dissolving gas was lost. Sometimes the holes in the valve are not symmetrically located, which makes it possible to more accurately regulate the rate of foam release through the valve. Rotate the adapter relative to the valve axis a few degrees.
Q: Why do “heavy” foam cylinders “squish” worse than “light” ones?
A: “Heavy” cylinders contain much more product, so it should be taken into account that there is less free space inside the cylinder. Good example liter bottle of water. Fill up 1/3 of water and shake, or add more than half of water and compare the sensations. And if you replace the water with condensed milk, the process becomes even more clear. To obtain a good result, “heavy” cylinders should be given more time when shaking.
Q: I’m blowing foam into the gap between the jamb front door(window frame) and wall. The foam grows poorly, does not hold well, and there is a lot of foam consumption.
A: It is necessary to clean the surface from dust, snow, ice, and frost. Insert pieces of foam plastic into the gap, moisten the surfaces and fix (blow out) them with foam with inside doors (windows). This operation will avoid drafts, which most likely blew foam out of the crack, and will create more favorable conditions for the use of polyurethane foam.
Q: Why does foam crack?
A: Usually when low temperatures crack summer options foam. However, it should be well remembered that at subzero temperatures, freshly blown foam may even “shrink” (as if drawn in) in the initial period. The expansion rate is low and the foam expansion process will take a long time. Therefore, at subzero temperatures, growing foam goes through a so-called period of fragility, from 4 to 6 hours, when any mechanical impact causes cracking of the foam shell and loss of all its qualities. In the future, it may simply crumble.
Q: Why does foam rise poorly?
A: At negative temperatures, air humidity is reduced, the flow chemical reactions slowed down, the viscosity of the product is increased and the pressure in the foam cells is reduced. These factors lead to a decrease in foam volume and an increase in foam curing time. IN winter period it is recommended to adhere to following rules applications of polyurethane foam:
1. Keep the bottle in a warm place until the bottle temperature is at least +5°C.
2. In the room where it will be used, it is necessary to turn off the heat gun in advance or place an open container of water on the heater.
3. Prepare the surface well (clean off dust, snow, ice, frost).
4. It is recommended to close cracks more than 5 cm thick from the street side with polystyrene foam, cardboard or other similar material.
5. Moisten the surface, avoiding the accumulation of water, the formation of ice or frost.
6. Shake the foam container thoroughly.
7. Blow foam into required quantity(by 1/3 of the slot for the adapter version and by 2/3 for the pistol version).
8. Moisten the foam, avoiding the accumulation of water or the formation of ice or frost.
9. After no less than 24 hours, cut off the foam and be sure to protect it with sealant, plaster or paint.
It should be remembered that mediocre foams have rather low dimensional stability, and this leads to cracking of the plaster. Is saving a few rubles worth it? possible complications. After all, when buying polyurethane foam, we pay for it unique properties, and not for the balloon or the speed at which the foam comes out of it. It is important what kind of foam is obtained as a result. No matter how good the foam is, it still needs to be protected, since polyurethane foam is a very hygroscopic material and tends to condense moisture from the surrounding space. In the cold, water freezes and expands when it freezes (these are the properties of ice). When expanding, the foam cells are destroyed. Foam with destroyed cells loses its consumer qualities and just starts to crumble. That's why high-quality protection foam is a reliable guarantee of its long-term service, and correct application will allow you to achieve the best results, even in the most difficult conditions.
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Gray Pots 13-11-2009 19:46
The valve on the foam canister for the pistol has dried out (hardened). It’s still full, but there’s nowhere to completely drain it yet (this is when you use a balloon against a nail and direct a stream of foam from a broken hole into a large cavity) - maybe there’s a way to revive it (the valve)?
makarkharp 13-11-2009 20:04
There's probably no way to revive...
It’s better to shoot the balloon with a shotgun - it will scatter beautifully
P-Alex 13-11-2009 20:17
into the fire with the valve down... pressure will be created and then the plastic will melt... carry it out in a deserted place - with foam it should be very interesting
Spinning player34 13-11-2009 21:01
You can throw it from the roof of a multi-story building, it should also be interesting....
vallenok 13-11-2009 21:27
You can try soaking it in foam cleaner.
It’s not a fact that it will help, but there is a chance.
A bottle of this same “krass” cleaner has already revived two pistols for me that seemed to have dried to death. One of them was “soaked” for about three weeks, but in the end it worked like new.
True, the cost of a bottle of cleaner and a bottle of foam is almost the same))
Father Mikhail 13-11-2009 22:36
into the fire with the valve down... pressure will be created and then the plastic will melt... carry it out in a deserted place - with foam it should be very interesting
It will turn out interesting. My friend, after finishing the construction of the dacha, was putting things in order there. Everything unnecessary was disposed of by burning in a fire. An incompletely used can of polyurethane foam also flew there. Well, in general it turned out to be a rocket. Instead of a flame, liquid spray foam flew out of the rocket nozzles....
In short, the foam flew and the balloon was “painted” new car the roof, both left doors, the left front door and half the hood. Not counting spoilers and glass.
So put the can of foam and be sure to put the valve down. Someone will say "thank you" to you...
kaka 14-11-2009 12:14
So here I am from the outlet tube of the valve and the one that is put on it, with suitable hooks (don’t believe that the foam sticks to everything “you can’t tear it off”). It is removed from these tubes at once (by at least I had that). And after that I reused the canister. True, it was impossible to reuse more than that. But it’s better to try to use it all at once.
P.S. But these recommendations are not for pistol cylinders, for hand ones.
alchemist 14-11-2009 12:17
Damn Uncle Misha bent))) the foam doesn’t wash off))))
Pers 14-11-2009 12:22
So here I am from the outlet tube of the valve and the one that is put on it, with suitable hooks (don’t believe that the foam sticks to everything “you can’t tear it off”)
P.S. But these recommendations are not for pistol cylinders, for hand ones.
I also think that it’s worth trying to pick at the valve with something similar to a thin hook, and then try to push it through.
And for the future, don’t unscrew the half-full cylinder from the gun. Another time he will “give foam” without any problems.
Father Mikhail 14-11-2009 12:26
Damn Uncle Misha bent))) the foam doesn’t wash off))))
It cannot be washed off the paint surface of the car. We checked.
alchemist 14-11-2009 12:54
Father Mikhail 14-11-2009 12:58
quote: Originally posted by alchemist:
how?
The 76 doesn't take gasoline. Kerosene and white spirit are not accepted.
Anything else will ruin the paintwork.
alchemist 14-11-2009 01:07
What about foam remover and repolishing with abrasive polish? isn't it cheaper? or helmet and fuck?
Father Mikhail 14-11-2009 01:47
quote: Originally posted by alchemist:
What about foam remover and repolishing with abrasive polish? isn't it cheaper? or helmet and fuck?
kaka 14-11-2009 02:42
It cannot be washed off the paint surface of the car.
But religion does not allow you to polish your car with different waxes. That's what would fly off him.
P-Alex 14-11-2009 04:41
quote: Originally posted by P-Alex:
spend in a deserted place
quote: Originally posted by Father Mikhail:
His new Nissan Patrol, which was standing at the gate, ended up in the missile’s strike zone....
I edited the post with a specialist, I thought that they wouldn’t find fault
Yep 14-11-2009 11:00
quote: Originally posted by Father Mikhail:
And the funny thing is that this foam cannot be washed off with anything. Just repainted....
and the author can help...
alchemist 14-11-2009 12:07
quote: Originally posted by Father Mikhail:Try getting your car dirty with foam. And then wash it with remover. And when it dries, it’s a total disaster. CASCO is a good thing, but factory is factory.
Did you think before you spoke?
I drove through swamps through trees on our wedge, a couple of abrasions won’t make any difference to the weather. Even Otsyton famously spoils paintwork, but polishing can solve the problem.
In the end, you have to pay for stupidity.
I just suggested an option. You can try evil but gentle solvents, DMSO... or DMF - these should wash everything away. And leave the enamel)))
Father Mikhail 14-11-2009 13:36
quote: Originally posted by Yep:
There is special liquid to remove foam - removes completely.
I haven’t tried car paint with it though.
and the author can help...
It won't help anymore. The car was sold in the condition in which it was hit by a missile. All experiments with washing and polishing did not lead to anything. Now there are no canisters at all on the site (when the owner says canister, Quincke’s edema begins and his navel peels off from allergies) and there’s another car at the gate
P-Alex 14-11-2009 13:40
blade safety razor cleans all soft dirt from a hard, smooth painted surface... just a matter of time
Yep 14-11-2009 13:41
It’s also good to fill the exhaust pipe with foam...
TAURUS 14-11-2009 15:37
in the sun the foam itself will disintegrate into dust... a matter of time....
biathlon 14-11-2009 16:57
quote: Originally posted by kaka:I agree with the above. When I was renovating apartments, I had to “reanimate” more than one such cylinder (after some “careless partners”).
Well I do not know. When there was money... in general, the toad was strangling. The foam there hardens after the valve, but before it (inside the cylinder) you understand that it is normally liquid.
I did it simply: I twisted the tube from the cylinder and, using a thin long nail, carefully “picked out” the dried foam from the valve nozzle. The dried foam there (as was correctly written above) is only in the nozzle (“spout”) of the cylinder, and “everything inside is liquid,” and the valve itself is “working” (if the cylinder, of course, is still “alive”; however, this is easy to check - shake it - if it “gurgles” inside, then it can still be fully “reanimated”), so it must be carefully removed from the nozzle (“spout”) of the cylinder.
You can use a nail, or you can use copper wire...
Once removed, cleaning the tube is also not so difficult - take (for example) a long piece of copper wire with a diameter of 1-1.5 mm, bend a “hook” at its end with pliers (just press the tip of the “hook” closer to the very end with pliers). wire so that only its tip “sticks out”, which will “catch” the foam from the tube), then “stick” the wire into the tube and “pull out” the dried foam from it in “pieces” (the algorithm is as follows: “stick” the wire 5 centimeters 10, “turned” it and pulled it back - pieces of dried foam will be removed like a cork from a bottle).
You can just “push” copper wire into the tube (without “bending the hooks at the end”), only slightly “bending it like a snake” (“waves”) - if you “scrape it back and forth” (while “twisting”), then the foam will again “pop out in pieces” .
After you have completely cleaned the tube, screw it onto the bottle, shake it several times, turn it over and press the valve “lever” - the foam should “go down the tube”.
If it doesn’t go (or “goes weakly”), it means you haven’t completely cleaned the “nose” of the valve. Repeat the “carnation” procedure again...
Basically, everything worked out for me the first time. And cleaning took a few minutes (2-3-5 no more).
True, after cleaning the cylinder is best used completely...
Or, if you do not use the balloon completely, you can do the following:
1) after finishing work, turn the cylinder upside down and “blow air” through the tube itself and the “spout” of the valve. To do this, you just need to press the valve lever and hold it in this position for several seconds. True, this “helps” if the cylinder is not full.
2) Twist the tube from the cylinder. Wait a few minutes, then take a thin, thin nail (a few centimeters longer in length than the length of the “spout” of the valve), wrap a strip of thin cotton fabric around it “in one layer” and “clean” it (as far as possible) inner surface(inner diameter) of the valve “spout” from excess “drying” foam.
You can also clean the tube itself.
Although you don’t have to do this, because... when the foam “dries”, it will be very easy to remove it from the tube (with ordinary copper wire).