Sewing pockets is not an easy task, and many sewing beginners avoid these complicating parts. But you can’t imagine a backpack or jacket without it. In fact, it is difficult to understand the technology of sewing a pocket, but it is possible. Moreover, if the whole process is shown step by step, as in today's master class.
I'll show you how to sew a voluminous patch pocket with a zipper. This type of pocket can be found on vests or wide pants. I will sew a pocket from, and if you are interested in how this can be done, read on.
To sew a voluminous patch pocket I needed:
- textile
- zipper lock 22 cm.
- adhesive fabric
- threads in color
- single-horned sewing machine foot for sewing on a zipper
- tailor's tools: scissors, pins, ruler, chalk
How to sew a voluminous patch pocket with a zipper step by step
- To sew a voluminous pocket on a backpack, I cut out the pocket parts with the following dimensions:
- 1 - pocket upper part 5.5 x 23. Round the corners, as in the photo
- 2 - pocket top 9 x 28
- 3 – bottom pocket 16.5 x 27. Cut 2 x 2 cm in the corners as in the photo
2. I glue parts 1 and 2 from the wrong side with adhesive fabric in order to give rigidity.
3. I combine the middles and place parts 2 and 3 on top of each other, right sides inward. I fix it with pins.
4. I stitch it on a machine, overcast the edges with an overlocker, or use a zigzag stitch.
5. I sweep out the cut using hand stitches. I iron it with an iron with steam, or through damp gauze - an ironing iron.
6. Sew the corners of the bottom of the patch pocket
7. I overcast the edges using an overlocker, using a zigzag stitch.
8. I bend the edges of the parts inward by 1 cm. I baste with hand stitches. I iron it with an iron with steam, or through damp gauze - an ironing iron.
9. I sew the hem with a straight stitch, retreating from the edge by 1 mm.
10. I cut out two parts that will serve as fasteners for the zipper lock. I fold them inward and iron them.
11. I attach the fasteners with pins along the edges of the pocket part.
12. I unfasten the lock and place it on the pocket piece, as shown in the photo.
13. I sew on the lock using a single-arm zipper foot.
14. I sew off the lock from the front side.
If it’s not clear, here it is - this line along the edge of the zipper lock.
15. Now I sew the lock onto the top of the pocket.
Hello, my Reader!
In Joint Sewing No. 10 “We sew backpacks for schoolchildren and students!” In all three versions of backpacks, bulky patch pockets are sewn on the front wall of the backpack.
Despite the fact that even a beginner can handle the sequence of sewing together the parts of backpacks according to the finished description, the lack of experience and skills in processing some knots needs to be compensated for with more precise tips and recommendations.
These are exactly those “little things” that are usually not talked about on videos or in master classes, since usually the main goal is to show and tell the technological sequence of stitching.
These “little things” are developed with experience, by altering one knot several times, and provided that the craftswoman knows how to quickly draw conclusions and look for new solutions to the problem.
I want to save your nerves, time and give the opportunity to get maximum pleasure from the process of sewing backpacks and bags for your loved ones.
Recently, varieties of voluminous patch pockets have become popular among manufacturers of bags and backpacks and bag makers. I was no exception.
There are several reasons for this:
- no need to cut the wall parts and think about how to process the cuts so that it is neat, so as not to stretch the frame;
— you don’t have to select the fabric for the hem according to tone;
— mortise pockets are not always appropriate for a model or a certain fabric, and sometimes some additional detail is asked to come to the fore;
— a mortise pocket with a zipper and a volume pocket differ in design and are used differently.
The technology for processing different pockets has its own characteristics, and this variety also has them.
Assembling the pocket itself is not very difficult, but its neat, symmetrical stitching to the front wall initially causes certain difficulties for many craftsmen.
1. When assembling a pocket, use the technology that creates as few bulges as possible along the edge of the stitching of the pocket to the main part of the product. The edge of the pocket that is sewn on should be as thin as possible.
2. Mark the shape of the pocket on the front wall with washable ink, chalk or pencil.
3. Mark the center, at least the top and bottom edges, and even better, have them on all sides. The same marks should be on the prepared pocket. This will help prevent the workpiece from stretching or bending. As you sew on each side, you will see where your marks should meet.
4. Start stitching to the left of the center of the top edge a couple of centimeters. Once you reach the center of the bottom edge, finish stitching with a tack and return to the top edge, stitching the other side of the pocket.
5. When sewing the pocket, sew a stitch, stepping back from the edge by 1-2 mm.
Remember the main thing! Without experience and practice there will be no experience and skills. By dreaming and putting it off for later, by putting it in a piggy bank and not using what you have accumulated, you will not learn how to sew bags and backpacks. All this will remain in dreams and unfulfilled desires, which will tear your creative soul apart with regret and guilt.
How much more you will receive when you sew with your own hands a finished product with a piece of your soul.
You will be proud to wear it yourself or give it to a loved one.
Even with crooked stitches and a slightly lopsided pocket, your backpack will give you joy, delight from the fact that you COULD overcome doubts. We took it and sewed it ourselves!
Join us and sew one of three backpacks in the joint sewing project “We sew backpacks for schoolchildren and students!”
Sincerely, Vilena Malaya.
This is a fashionable sports version of the patch pocket. Regular patch pockets can easily be converted into briefcase pockets. For rounded pockets, a similar effect is achieved by using two strips corresponding to the shape of the pocket, and for rectangular pockets, by using one whole piece for the folds or one rectangular strip of fabric.
Rounded briefcase pocket
On the paper pocket pattern, draw a placket line along the outer edge of the pocket and at a distance of approx. 4 cm from it (1). Remove the bar from the pocket piece as a separate piece. Cut out the pocket and placket from fabric with seam allowances along all cuts: cut out the pocket once, and cut the placket twice.
Overcast the allowance along the top edge of the pocket and each placket, iron it inside out and topstitch. Overcast the allowance along the outer edge of one strip and iron it to the wrong side. Place the planks face to face and stitch the internal edges. Sew seam allowances together (2).
Pin the strip with the raw outer edge to the pocket face to face. Sew it in. Cut the seam allowances close to the stitching, and notch in the rounded areas (3). Sweep the bar onto the wrong side. Iron the edge and topstitch. If desired, the edge can be stitched additionally at a greater distance without catching the bar with the ironed outer edge.
Pin the pocket to the product and stitch only the bottom strip into the edge. If desired, the bottom bar can be stitched additionally at a greater distance. Stitch the bottom strip on each side of the top edge along the inner seam for a length of approx. 3 cm. Then stitch the side edges of the pocket from the top edge to a length of approx. 3 cm exactly into the seam (4).
Rectangular satchel pocket with one-piece pleat detail
The design of the pattern for this pocket is a little more complicated.
Transfer the main pocket pattern onto a large sheet of paper. The side edges and bottom edge form the outer fold line of the fold. At equal distances that correspond to the desired width of the fold, draw two lines from the bottom and side edges of the pocket. The middle is the line of the inner fold of the fold.
Connect the vertices of the corners with a dotted line. Through the top of the inner corner at right angles to the dotted line, draw a line intersecting the line of the inner fold of the fold at two points. From these intersection points, draw straight lines parallel to the dotted line until they intersect with the outer (third) line (5). Cut out the corners along the drawn solid lines. The pattern is ready.
Cut out the pocket with seam allowances along all edges. Seal all cuts. Iron the seam allowance along the top edge of the pocket to the wrong side and topstitch. Bring seam allowances along the side and bottom edges to the wrong side. Iron (6).
Then press the folds of the folds. To do this, first turn the side and bottom edges right side out along the lines of the inner folds of the folds, right side to right side. Iron the folds. Then press the folds to the wrong side along the lines of the outer folds (7).
To sew the corners of the pocket, fold the folds again. Fold the pocket, aligning one side edge and then the other with the bottom edge (8). Sew the corners along the marked seam lines. Cut the top of each corner close to the line (8a). Lay out the seam allowances. Place the pocket folds again along the fold lines. Stitch the outer fold of the fold to the edge. Then pin the pocket to the garment and stitch the bottom of the fold into the edge. From the top edge, stitch the pocket along the inside fold line of the fold to a length of approx. 3 cm. Then stitch the upper edges of the fold to a length of approx. 8 cm (9).
Briefcase pocket with stitched straight detail for folds
This is the easiest way to make a briefcase pocket from a regular rounded or rectangular pocket. For a pleated piece, you will need a rectangular strip of fabric with a width equal to twice the desired pleat width and a length equal to the length of the side edges of the pocket plus the length of the bottom edge of the pocket. Cut out the pocket and part for the folds with seam allowances 1 cm wide along all cuts.
Transfer the pocket alignment lines to the right side of the fabric using running stitches or draw these lines on the right side of the fabric using a “magic” tailor’s chalk.
How to sew a briefcase pocket
Rectangular briefcase pocket
On the part for folds, iron the seam allowance of one longitudinal section to the wrong side. Pin the other longitudinal cut of the pleat piece to the pocket from the top cut along one side cut, right side to right side. Sew the part for the folds to the width of the seam allowance (1 cm), not reaching 1 cm from the bottom edge of the pocket. At the beginning and at the end of the seam, perform a bartack. Cut the seam allowance of the pleat piece close to the last stitch of the stitching (1).
Pin the piece for the folds from the notch to the bottom edge of the pocket and stitch it, starting the stitch exactly at the last stitch of the side seam and finishing it, not reaching 1 cm from the corner. At the beginning and at the end of the seam, perform a bartack. Cut the seam allowance of the pleat piece close to the last stitch of the stitching (2). Then stitch the part for the folds from the corner to the other side edge of the pocket.
Turn the part for the folds right side out. Press the seam allowances onto the pocket. Sew the pleat piece along the stitching seams close to the seams. Fold in the allowance along the top edge of the pocket and the details for the folds. Then iron the one-piece facing along the entrance to the pocket to the wrong side and topstitch. (3).
Pin the part for the folds to the product along the alignment lines, placing it in the folds at the corners (4). Sew the side and bottom edges of the folding piece into the edge. Pin the edges of the pocket and the edges of the pleat piece (5). Iron it. Sew the upper corners of the pocket in the form of triangles (6), grabbing the ends of the parts for the folds.
Rounded briefcase pocket
Iron the seam allowance along the top edge of the pocket inside out, turn it under and topstitch. On a strip of fabric (strap), iron the allowance of one longitudinal section on the wrong side. Pin the other longitudinal section of the plank to the pocket along the side and bottom sections face to face. Tuck short sections of the strap at the top edge of the pocket. Sew the placket to the pocket. Cut seam allowances close to the stitching, and notch in the rounded areas (7).
Turn the bar inside out. Baste the edges and iron them (8). If desired, stitch the bar to the edge. Pin the edges of the strip to the product along the alignment lines and stitch into the edge (9). Pin the edges of the pocket and the trim. Iron. Stitch the side edges of the pocket from the top edge to the edge for a length of approx. 1 cm.
I recently had the opportunity to sew a men's parka. Every self-respecting parka has many pockets in order to store useful little things and style in them.
Very good in men's jackets are voluminous pockets or, as they are also called,
Briefcase pockets.
A good person gets a jacket, and we get a master class with pictures. Planned and done.
First, determine what size and shape of pockets you need. And cutting them out couldn’t be easier. By the way, briefcases can also be different, but we will sew the simplest option of all.
There are only two parts: the pocket itself and a long strip on the side of the pocket.
My pocket measures 18 * 21 cm when finished, plus a 1 cm seam allowance and a 3 cm full facing.
The width of the side stripe is 6 cm (including allowances), and the length must be measured according to your pocket.
Glue the upper part of the one-piece pocket facing with light non-woven fabric.
Observe the direction of the threads: the lobe runs along the length of the side and along the burlap of the pocket.
Pin the side strip along the edge of the pocket. It is convenient to mark the middle of the parts and start chopping from the center from the bottom.
if there are rounded corners, then make several cuts along the allowances, and if the pocket has right angles, then make one cut.
Sew parts on a machine.
It is always useful to iron the seams before ironing them “on the edge”.
There was a free facing seam allowance at the pocket. Now is the time to fold the pocket and side face to face and fold the facing over them. Then stitch the facing and turn the pocket inside out.
All free cuts should be processed with overcast stitches so that unexpected threads inside the finished pocket do not bother the owner of the jacket.
Stitch along the top edge of the pocket, if necessary.
Now you need to outline the clear shape of the pocket. First of all, direct the sides inwards and press the seams edgewise, iron the corners of the pocket. If necessary, sweep the edge of the pocket before the WTO and stitching.
Stitching around the perimeter helps maintain a crisp pocket shape.
Fold and iron the side strip seam allowance. This is what we will sew to the jacket.
Make markings on the product. This must be done carefully according to the shape of the top of the pocket.
Pin the prepared pocket along the markings. Take your time, carefully aligning the sides. There should be no distortions.
A one-piece briefcase pocket with a flap can often be found on clothing for both adults and children. Such a pocket has a three-dimensional shape, and the entrance to it is usually covered with a flap. Our master class will tell you in detail how to create a pattern and sew a one-piece briefcase pocket with a flap with your own hands.
One-piece briefcase pocket with flap: preparation for work
How to sew a one-piece briefcase pocket with a flap with your own hands? We will tell you how to sew a rectangular pocket with right corners and a flap with rounded corners. The pocket itself can be either a square or a rectangle; its size depends entirely on the design of the model. You also need to decide what the maximum thickness of the pocket will be. To provide this thickness for the pocket, an additional piece is needed: the sides and bottom. This part can be cut out separately, or it can be made whole - this is exactly the type of pocket we will talk about in our master class.Regarding the valve, the shape of the bottom edge plays an important role. The valve can be rectangular, with rounded edges, triangular, or have an unusual, shaped edge. Another important decision is the pocket clasp. The valve can be fixed with a button, magnet or button. We'll show you how to sew a one-piece satchel pocket with a button flap. A buttonhole can be either a welt buttonhole (sewn by machine or by hand, or with facing) or an overlay buttonhole (for example, made from a tucked cord).
The choice of fabric for the pocket is determined by the design of the model. This can be either the main fabric of the product or additional material for the entire pocket or just for one part, for example for a valve. Sometimes, to highlight a flap or pocket, they are cut from the main fabric, but placed at a different angle to the fabric pattern. This technique is often used when sewing checkered or striped fabrics.
The valve consists of two layers. The bottom layer can be sewn from the same fabric as the top one. For a valve made of thick fabric, a thinner (or lining) fabric is usually used as the bottom layer.
So, let's sew a one-piece briefcase pocket with a flap with your own hands!
Pattern construction and cutting
Draw the basic shape of the front of the pocket (dark color in the diagram).
Add the desired pocket width to the sides and bottom and divide it in half. Draw diagonals (dotted lines in the photo) along the lower corners.
From the bottom corners of the pocket, draw perpendiculars to the right and left until they intersect with the first line, and then again perpendiculars until they intersect with the outer line. Cut out the resulting corner parts (white in the diagram). Draw a pattern for the valve of the desired shape. The width of the flap should be 1 cm wider than the front of the pocket.
Uncover
Add allowances to the pocket pattern: 1 cm on the sides and bottom, including cutouts in the corners. The allowance along the top edge is from 2 cm, depending on the method of processing the top of the pocket.
Cut out two valve parts, with an allowance of 1 cm around the entire perimeter.
Progress
Trim the valve part intended for installation on the underside of the valve along the sides and bottom by 2 mm.
Place the flap pieces right sides together, edges aligned, and stitch. The lower part will be smaller and will pull down the upper one. Trim the allowances, cut the allowances into triangles in the rounded areas.
Turn the flap out and stitch along the edge. Due to trimming, the seam will easily turn inside out. Iron.
Overcast the pocket piece as shown in the photo.
Iron the seam allowances to the wrong side. Trim any excess edges at the corners.
Iron the sides and bottom along the marked lines with an accordion, as shown in the photo.
Fold the corners diagonally and sew along the marked lines using two perpendicular lines.
Trim excess seam allowances and press to the sides. Turn the pocket inside out.
Pin the pocket using the allowances to a place on the product, focusing on the contour of the front part, outlined in advance.
Try on the valve and stitch as shown in the photo. Trim the seam allowance to approximately 3mm.
Turn the flap down, iron and topstitch, leaving a 5mm gap from the top to cover the first seam allowance.
