Can you tell me how to knit the shoulder bevels on the back? knitting needles Shoulder bevel Calculation and knitting of front armholes

To ensure that the finished knitted product does not puff up, it is necessary to shoulder slope. This is done in loose rows in 4 to 6 steps (depending on the height of the inclination).

You will get the total number of shoulder loops by multiplying the shoulder width by the number of loops per 1 cm. Then divide the resulting number by 4 (6). This way you will know how many stitches you need to leave off in each row. The left shoulder is not knitted in the front rows, the right - in the purl rows.

After completing all the decreases, knit all the loops in one row, catching all the turning loops along with the loops of the previous row so that there are no holes. Then bind off all the shoulder loops, or knit another 3-4 rows in stockinette stitch to increase by .

You can make a shoulder bevel in another way: gradually closing groups of loops. In this case, the left shoulder will decrease at the beginning of the purl rows, and the right shoulder at the beginning of the front rows.

Most often, while knitting, it is necessary to perform both the shoulder bevel and the design at the same time. So you will have to calculate in advance where the decreases begin first and when to start performing another structural element.

On the back, the design of the neckline and shoulder begins approximately simultaneously, but on the front half, you need to start designing the neckline earlier, and start bevelling the shoulder only on the 2nd or 3rd decrease.

Calculation example for knitting a shoulder bevel

Knit based on:

shoulder width = 44 rows;

shoulder height = 16 rows.

Make 8 decreases every other row in every 2nd row:

4 times 6 loops and 4 times 5 loops.

How to knit a straight shoulder line

How to calculate and knit a shoulder bevel

This page is found by queries:

shoulder bevel with knitting needles
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Does it ever happen to you that the longer you knit, the more often it seems that you don’t know how to knit at all? You constantly come across something new that will make your skills clearer, more accurate, more precise. You study and study all the related topics, gradually touching upon (even if you had carefully avoided or been afraid before) topics related to the construction of patterns, basic fundamentals, etc. And I am always very grateful to people who share their knowledge and skills, often doing it absolutely free of charge. That is, for nothing!

Japanese shoulder knitting pattern

“Japanese shoulder” is the conventional name for a shoulder seam sloping back. There is scattered information on the Internet about constructing a pattern for this very shoulder, but there is nothing super tricky or complicated about it.

Easy to build using a basic pattern. The last photo shows my pattern, or rather the pattern that I worked out on my own products. And the main trick in it is that the bevel of the shoulder from the shelf is transferred completely to the back. Thus, a double shoulder bevel is built on the back, but there is no shoulder bevel on the shelf.

It should be noted here that the armhole on the front should widen slightly from the place where the shoulder bevel begins in the basic pattern. This point is practically not given attention on Russian-language forums, and people experience some difficulties during assembly, namely, the length of the shoulder along the back is geometrically greater than the length of the shoulder of the shelf, which leads to the fit of one relative to the other. And as a result, a pulled shoulder seam, “wrinkles” on the back. This is not good.

The construction of the sleeve cap is no different, in my case, from the construction of the basic cap; the only nuance can be that the width of the top of the sleeve should coincide with the height of the shoulder bevel along the back; if the bevel is 8 cm, then the width of the top of the sleeve is 8 cm. This is very convenient during assembly - there are control points for “docking”, which are indicated on the drawing.

Why is this “leverage” often used in industry? Judging by what I’ve read, this design can significantly reduce the time spent on production; moreover, products with such a shoulder fit equally well on different types of figures, despite the fact that the pattern is based on a conventionally typical figure. I don’t presume to say the first, but I was convinced of the second in practice - the sweater fit perfectly on my husband’s hunched back with sloping shoulders and on my powerful shoulders and relatively straight back.

Addition: to prevent the shoulder on the back from being pulled together, you need to knit the edge loops in each row and additionally again in the decrease areas, if they are shaped.

Japanese shoulder knitting pattern

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Some contour lines of the base pattern sometimes do not change after drawing the construction lines. These are the lines of the back and front armholes and the sleeve hem. Therefore for them neck knitting, shoulders, armholes, we recommend using ready-made calculation results.

How to calculate and knit the back

Determine the number of loops in the width of the armhole (segment AB) and divide them into 3 equal parts:

3 p.x6 cm = 18 p. (Pg. = 3 p.);
18 p.: 3 = 6 p.

If you get a remainder, then add it to the first third, counting from point B.

When knitting the first third of the loops (6 loops, including the edge loop), close in 2 steps:

at the beginning of the front row, close half the loops in a row (3 loops) and knit the row to the end.

Turn the knitting and bind off 3 loops at the beginning of the row. At the beginning of the next (front) row, fasten the second half of the loops in a row (3 loops) and, having knitted the row, fasten the same number of loops at the beginning of the purl row. With a low knitting density, the first third of the loops have to be closed in one step.

Decrease the second third (6 stitches) one at the beginning and end of each knit row: at the beginning of the row, remove the edge stitch, knit the next stitch (regardless of the pattern) and pull it through the edge stitch. At the end of the same row, purl the edge and adjacent stitches together.

Knit purl rows without decreasing. Cut the last third (6 loops) in the same way as the second, but not in each front row, but every other row, i.e. after decreasing (in the front row), knit 3 rows without changes (purl, knit, purl) and only then make another decrease.

Having knitted the lower parts of the armholes, continue knitting the back to the shoulders.

How to calculate and knit shoulders and neckline backrests

The shape of the neck depends on the model. In our example, after drawing construction lines (neck strip), the new neck line is located 2 cm below the main one, the upper edge of the strip ends above the base by 1 cm (this can be seen on the working pattern).

Measure the width of the new neck (8 cm) and shoulder (12 cm) and determine the number of loops in these segments:

3 p.x8 cm=24 p. (half neckline);
3 p.x 12 cm = 36 p. (shoulder).

Measure the new slope of the shoulder (it is a little more than 3 cm) and, using the control sample, calculate the number of edges in this value, for example 7.

The number of edges in the inclined shoulders always corresponds to the number of groups into which you need to divide the shoulder loops dm decreases. Therefore, in this version there are 7 groups.

Now you need to find out how many loops are included in each group. To do this, the shoulder loops should be divided into the number of groups (or edge loops). 36 p: 7 = 5 p. (1 p. left).

Add the remainder to the 1st group, counting from the end of the shoulder (if the remainder is greater than one, distribute it by 1 loop to each of the groups located at the end of the shoulder). So, on the shoulder you need to decrease 6 loops 1 time and 5 loops 6 times.

The number of edges in the neck height always corresponds to the number of groups into which the neck loops need to be divided for decreases.

Dividing the neck loops by the number of edge loops, determine the number of loops in each group. 24 p.: 7 = 3 p. (3 p. left). Distribute the remainder by adding 1 stitch to the first three groups, counting from the middle of the back. Therefore, on the back neck you need to decrease 3 times 4 loops and 4 times 3 loops. Apply the calculation results to the pattern.

To do this, on the front side of the work, close 6 shoulder loops in a row and knit a row, leaving 4 neck loops unknitted at the end (place them on a strong cotton thread). Turn the knitting, remove the 1st loop without knitting, and knit the purl row to the end.

At the beginning of the front row, cast off 5 loops in a row, and at the end of the same row, leave 4 more unknitted loops. Now there are 8 unknitted loops on the thread. Continue knitting according to calculation until all shoulder loops are closed.

Thread the neck loops onto a thread (they remain open). After this, break the working thread. Next, knit the left half of the back.

To do this, on the front side of the work, stepping back from the middle of the back 4 loops to the left (point A in the figure), attach a working thread to the knitting and knit the front row to the end.

It is more convenient to string the neck loops on the same thread on which the open loops of the right half are located.

The website *Fashionable knitting at Perchinka* already has several useful tips from this author. And for those new to knitting, today we will again tell you about another calculation method for correctly knitting the armhole and sleeve cap. Whatever yarn you use and whatever number of needles you knit from, this technique gives fairly accurate results. Depending on the knitting density, only the number of calculation numbers changes: the looser the fabric, the fewer there are.

How to knit a set-in sleeve

Perhaps, set-in sleeves of all varieties found in sewing can be knitted on knitting needles: long or short; narrowed or, conversely, widened downwards; straight (tubular) or lantern-shaped; with cuffs or lapels and many others.

Sleeves can be made not only from the bottom up from the wrist - the most common way, but also from the side, from the seam of the sleeve (transverse knitting direction). You can knit a set-in sleeve from top to bottom (from the high point of the hem), but this is not entirely convenient. Let's get acquainted with knitting a set-in sleeve, narrowed downwards.

Set-in sleeve knitted from bottom to top

Calculation and knitting of sleeves to the end(Fig. 173). The calculation is quicker to do for half a sleeve. Count the number of loops in the narrowest and widest parts of the sleeve:

rice. 173 Calculation for knitting sleeves to the end

3 p. x 10 cm = 30 p. (Pg = 3 p.);

3 p. x 18 cm = 54 p.

Determine the difference (in loops) between the wide and narrow part of the sleeve: 54 p. - 30 p. = 24 p.

Measure the distance from the beginning of the flare on the sleeve to the beginning of the collar (34 cm) and divide this number by 24 (the difference is in the loops).

34 cm: 24 = 1.4 cm.

Count the number of edges in 1.4 cm, in our example there are 3 of them, which corresponds to 6 rows. Therefore, to expand the sleeves, you need to add 1 loop in every 6th row. Let's look at how best to do this.

Cast on the required number of stitches on the knitting needles (30 sts x 2 = 60 sts), knit 4 cm in garter stitch and go to the main pattern. Knit 2-4 rows and make the first increase; at the beginning of the front row, remove the edge yarn and, having made a yarn over (toward you), knit a row; at the end of it, in front of the edge yarn over, throw on another yarn over. In the next purl row, knit the yarn over with knit stitches behind the back wall.

Continue knitting, making similar increases on both sides of the sleeve in every 6th row, until there are 108 loops on the knitting needle (54 sts x 2 = 108 sts).

In order not to lose count, mark each time with a colored thread or pin a pin to the row in which you made an addition. These marks will also be useful when making the second sleeve, so do not remove them until you have knitted both sleeves.

Calculation of sleeve rim

Let's take a look at this calculation. Divide the number of loops in segment AB (Fig. 174) into 3 equal parts (54 p. : 3 = 18 p.). If there is a remainder, then attach it to the 1st part. Next, divide the loops of each part into groups.

Divide the loops of the 1st part into threes and twos, with the first half into threes, the second into twos (3 + 3 + 3 + 2 + 2 + 2 + 2 = 17), add the remainder to the first number (3 + 1 = 4 ).

Divide the loops of the 2nd part into units (18 units); loops of the 3rd part - into triplets (3 + 3 + 3 + 3 + 3 + 3 = 18). If there is a remainder, add it to the first figure, counting from the high point of the circle (point O).

Apply the calculation results to the pattern.

Now you can start knitting the okat.

At the beginning of the front row of the 1st part (point B), fasten 4 loops in a row and knit the row to the end. Turn the knitting and at the beginning of the purl row also fasten 4 loops. Then continue casting off stitches at the beginning of each row (knit or purl) until you have reduced 18 stitches on both sides of the sleeve.

The first third of the loops of the 2nd part (18 sts: 3 = 6 sts) decrease 1 loop at the beginning and end of each front row. Cut the second third (6 loops) in the same way, but not in each front row, but every other row. Decrease the last third (6 stitches) in the same way as the first.

Fasten the loops of the 3rd part according to calculation in exactly the same way as in the 1st part: either at the beginning of the front row, or at the beginning of the purl row. When there are 6 loops left on the knitting needle (of which 3 loops on the right side of the okat plus 3 loops on the left), close them in a row.

Practical advice

* If the sleeves are made with a boucle pattern, then gradually incorporate the loops added to widen them into the pattern. If the pattern contains elements of stockinette knitting (for example, strands or slipped loops on the purl stitch), then knit new loops on the front side of the work, purling them, creating a continuation of the background from them, then the sleeve seam will be soft and neat.

* When knitting set-in narrow sleeves, a certain pattern is observed, which is advisable to take into account. Noticed: if the arm length measurement is 52-60 cm (with normal fullness of the arms), then increases on the sleeve have to be made in every 6th row. If, with the same fullness of the arms, the length measure is 48-51 cm (short arms), then a different rhythm of additions is necessary - once in the 6th row, once in the 4th. With full and short arms (48-51 cm), loops on the sleeve should be added every 4th row. Knowing this, you can avoid calculating the additions according to the pattern, but knit the sleeves taking into account these practical conclusions.

* When knitting a sleeve to the end, it can turn out like this: the number of loops due to additions corresponds to its widest part, and the length of the sleeve is insufficient (for example, you need to knit another 5-6 cm). In this case, continue knitting in a straight line until you reach the desired length, but keep in mind that the second sleeve must be done in exactly the same way.

* Before you start knitting an okat, it is recommended to try on an unfinished sleeve: baste it, put it on your hand and check whether it is the length and width required. Once you are sure that the work is done correctly, continue knitting.

* It is important from the very beginning of training to pay special attention to the density of knitting. It is necessary to make all parts with the same density; If this does not work yet, then there is only one way out: the part must be unraveled and tied again.

Calculation and knitting of front armholes

Determine the number of loops in the width of the armhole (segment AB) and divide this number into 4 equal parts. If there is a remainder, add it to the loops of the 1st part (to the one at the side seam).
Example: knitting density 3p. 1 cm.
3 p. x 8 cm = 24 p.;

24 p.: 4 = 6 p.

Now divide the loops of each part, except the 1st, into groups (if there are leftovers in the 2nd and 3rd parts, add them to the first groups):

Divide the loops of the 2nd part into triplets (3 + 3);

loops of the 3rd part into twos (2 + 2 + 2);

loops of the 4th part into units (1 + 1 + 1 + 1 + 1 + 1).

Apply the calculation results to the pattern.

Having knitted the left front to the armhole, fasten 6 loops in a row at the beginning of the front row (1st part). Then knit the row, turn the knitting, knit the purl row and at the beginning of the front row fasten 3 loops in a row (the first group of loops of the 2nd part). Do all subsequent decreases of the 2nd and 3rd parts according to calculation at the beginning of each front row.

Decrease the loops of the 4th part one at a time through one front row, i.e., having made a decrease at the beginning of the front row, knit it to the end, then knit the purl row, then the front row, another purl and only at the beginning of the next front row do the next one decrease.

Having completed the armhole, knit 5-6 rows in a straight line, and then add 1 loop 2-3 times at equal intervals (see + signs in Fig. 183). Sometimes the knitting pattern is disrupted by added stitches. In this case, it is more advisable not to make additions, but to knit the armholes in a straight line.

Calculation for knitting curved lines of the front neck and shoulder

Any of the curves can be divided into separate segments that have a certain angle of inclination. This possibility is taken into account when calculating for tying curved lines.

The calculation is done as follows: the curved line is divided into different types of segments, the number of loops in the width of each is counted and the number of edge loops in its height is determined. For example, there are 6 loops in the width of the segment BV (2nd part), and 2 edge loops in the height. Next, we use the familiar calculation principle: the number of loops is divided by the number of edge loops; the result is the number of stitches decreased in each group.

6 p.: 2 = 3 p.

Therefore, the loops of the curved line on the segment BV need to be decreased in two steps of 3 loops.

Another example. There are 6 loops in the width of the segment GD (4th part), and 12 edge loops in the height - the segment is quite long, so you have to divide the number of edge loops by the number of loops to determine the length of the intervals between decreases.

12 edges: 6 stitches = 2 edges (4 rows).

This means that the loops of the curved line on the GD segment need to be cut one in every 4th row.

In this example, we came across the calculation for the second time for an almost vertical line (remember the side seam line of a fitted model), only the height of the side seam line was measured in centimeters, the intervals were determined and then their length was expressed by the number of edges.

Now let's do the calculation for knitting the remaining sections of the neckline: in section AB (1st part) 12 loops are placed. The segment is horizontal, so the loops in this section need to be decreased in one step. In the segment VG (3rd part) there are 6 loops, its height corresponds to three edge loops.

6 p.: 3 = 2 p.

Therefore, the loops of the VG segment need to be closed 3 times, 2 loops each.

The vertical segment DE (5th part) is knitted without decreases.

Apply the calculation results for knitting the neckline on the pattern (Fig. 185): 12 + 3 + 3 + 2 + 2 + 2 + 1 + 1 + 1 + + 1 + 1 + 1. Also enter the calculation numbers for knitting the shoulders.

Knitting the neck and shoulder of the left front. Tie the front to the neck (see Fig. 184, point A). At the end of the front row, leave 12 undone loops and thread them onto a strong auxiliary thread.

Turn the knitting, remove the 1st loop without knitting, and knit the row to the end. Continue working, under-knitting the neck loops at the end of each front row. The shoulder loops must be secured at the beginning of the front rows, after the armhole has been knitted. The neckline and shoulder of the right front are knitted similarly to the left, only decreases are made in the purl rows.

Practical advice

* Follow the rule when knitting: when doing the back and front, do not fasten the loops along the neck line, but string them on an auxiliary thread, i.e. leave them open - they are much more convenient for subsequent processing of the neck than closed ones. In addition, if the open loops are not needed, they can always be closed: just transfer the loops from the thread to the knitting needle and fasten them in one row.

* When knitting a model from thick yarn, it is recommended to knit the shoulders in partial knitting and then, starting from the front side of the part, knit 2 rows of knit stitches with the main thread and 3-4 rows with an auxiliary thread. Then the shoulders are ironed, the auxiliary thread and one row of wool are woven, and after that the shoulders are connected with a loop-to-loop seam along the front or back side, depending on the characteristics of the pattern.

* If a knitted item is worn over the head (sweater, pullover, T-shirt), then when knitting the front neckline, you need to divide the work in half and do each half separately (like the back neckline).

* Often on modern models, strips of thick knitwear are sewn to the armholes to widen the shoulders. They are usually made with garter stitch (all rows are knit stitches) or 1x1 rib. It is more convenient to tie them separately and then attach them to the model.

Calculation and knitting of back armholes

Some contour lines of the base pattern sometimes do not change after drawing the construction lines. These are the lines of the back and front armholes and the sleeve hem. Therefore, to knit them, we recommend using ready-made calculation results. Determine the number of loops in the width of the armholes (segment AB) and divide them into 3 equal parts:

3 p. x 6 cm = 18 p. (Pg = 3 p.);

18 p.: 3 = 6 p.

If you get a remainder, then add it to the first third, counting from point B.

When knitting the first third of the loops (6 loops, including the edge loop), close in 2 steps: at the beginning of the front row, close half of the loops in a row (3 loops) and knit the row to the end. Turn the knitting and bind off 3 loops at the beginning of the row. At the beginning of the next (front) row, fasten the second half of the loops in a row (3 loops) and, having knitted the row, fasten the same number of loops at the beginning of the purl row. With a low knitting density, the first third of the loops have to be closed in one step.

Cut the last third (6 loops) in the same way as the second, but not in each front row, but every other row, i.e. after decreasing (in the front row), knit 3 rows without changes (purl, knit, purl) and only then make another decrease. Having knitted the lower parts of the armholes, continue knitting the back to the shoulders. If it is done with an elastic band, plaits and other “springy” patterns, then knit it without changes (in a straight line). In other cases, give the armholes a concave shape. To do this, it is enough to make 2-3 additions of 1 loop along the armholes, performing them at equal intervals (see Fig. 169 for the location of the plus signs).

Calculation and knitting of shoulders and back neckline

Starting the calculation, connect the ends of the shoulders on the pattern with a straight line and lower the perpendiculars onto it, determining the width of the new neck. Next, do all the calculations on the right half of the pattern. Measure the width of the new neck (8 cm) and shoulder (12 cm) and determine the number of loops in these segments:

3 p. x 8 cm = 24 p. (half neckline);

3 p. x 12 cm = 36 p. (shoulder).

Measure the new slope of the shoulder (it is a little more than 3 cm) and, using the control sample, calculate the number of edges in this value, for example 7.

The number of edges in the shoulder slope always corresponds to the number of groups into which the shoulder loops need to be divided for decreases. Therefore, in this version there are 7 groups.

Now you need to find out how many loops are included in each group. To do this, the shoulder loops should be divided into the number of groups (or edge loops).

36 p.: 7 = 5 p. (1 p. left).

Next, measure the height of the new neck (3 cm) and count the number of edges in this value - 7 (in our example, the height of the neck and the slope of the shoulder coincided in size). The number of edges in the neck height always corresponds to the number of groups into which the neck loops need to be divided for decreases.

Dividing the neck loops by the number of edge loops, determine the number of loops in each group.

24. p.: 7 = 3 p. (3 p. left).

Distribute the remainder by adding 1 stitch to the first three groups, counting from the middle of the back. Therefore, on the back neck you need to decrease 3 times 4 loops and 4 times 3 loops. Apply the calculation results to the pattern (Fig. 171).
The back pattern shows the calculation result for decreases along the lines of the shoulders and neckline

Having knitted the back to the shoulders, finish knitting with a purl row. Mark the middle of the back and the width of the new neckline with colored thread. Divide the knitting in half. Transfer the left half to a spare knitting needle, and knit the right half according to the calculation just made. To do this, on the front side of the work, close 6 shoulder loops in a row and knit a row, leaving 4 neck loops unknitted at the end (place them on a strong cotton thread). Turn the knitting, remove the 1st loop without knitting, and knit the purl row to the end. At the beginning of the front row, cast off 5 loops in a row, and at the end of the same row, leave 4 more unknitted loops. Now there are 8 unknitted loops on the thread. Continue knitting according to calculation until all shoulder loops are closed. Thread the neck loops onto a thread (they remain open). After this, break the working thread.

Next, knit the left half of the back. To do this, on the front side of the work, stepping back from the middle of the back 4 loops to the left (point A in Fig. 171), attach a working thread to the knitting and knit the front row to the end. Turn the work and at the beginning of the purl row make the 1st decrease on the shoulder (6 loops). Do all subsequent decreases in the same way as on the right half of the back, but only on the wrong side of the work. It is more convenient to string the neck loops on the same thread on which the open loops of the right half are located.

Practical advice

* Before knitting the back armholes, double check that your knitting matches the specified width. Then hold the fabric to yourself and check whether its length along the side seam is sufficient.

* After decreasing the armhole stitches, pay special attention to the symmetry of the pattern: is it the same from the edges of the fabric.

* When fastening the loops, you can get a smooth line without “steps” (for example, on the shoulder) if you use the following technique: having closed the required number of loops at the beginning of the row, at the end of the next row, remove the edge onto the right knitting needle without knitting (thread behind the loop). Turn the knitting, at the beginning of the row, remove, without knitting, the first 2 loops - the edge and the adjacent one, pull the adjacent one into the edge and then fasten the required number of loops in the usual way (taking into account that one loop is already fastened). In each subsequent decrease, use this technique.

* In order to get a smooth line of the armholes, you need to decrease the loops as follows: on the right armhole (meaning the right side of the front side of the fabric) at the end of the purl row, do not knit the edge stitch, turn the work and pull the 1st loop, without knitting, into the edge loop ; on the left armhole at the end of the front row, knit the last 2 loops (including the edge stitch) together behind the front walls, in the next row remove the edge loop, placing the thread in front of the work.

* It is not recommended to string open loops onto a thin cotton thread, since during further processing of the parts, the open loops seem to be “pulled” into the knitted fabric along with the thread. You should also not use wool thread for this, especially the same color as you are knitting with: open loops are difficult to distinguish from the auxiliary thread. It is best to use inexpensive thread, such as darning in several folds, and if the loops are large, you can string them on soutache or thin cord. Before removing the thread, connect its ends, take the part in the other hand and pull the ends and the part in opposite directions - this will align the loops and make it easier to transfer them to the knitting needle.

* Often a yoke is knitted on the back. Its pattern, as a rule, differs sharply from the main pattern of the back. It can be a regular ribbing or elastic with the loops removed, garter stitch or a pattern reminiscent of waffles. Depending on the structure of the pattern, the yoke may be wide and go beyond the pattern or, conversely, shrink. For example, if the main pattern of the back is stocking, and the yoke is knitted with 1x1 elastic with removed loops (see Fig. 63), then it will become narrower than the pattern if the number of loops does not change when changing patterns. In our example, having knitted the back to the yoke, you need to add 1 loop at equal intervals in the last row before the yoke. How many additions should be made? A control pattern will help answer this question: cast on 25 loops, knit 3-4 cm in stockinette stitch and switch to a 1x1 elastic band with a removed loop, without changing the number of loops after stockinette stitch. Now measure the width of the stockinette, then the elastic, and determine how much wider the stockinette is than the elastic; for example, 1.5 cm. Calculate how many loops fit into 1.5 cm; for example, 3 is the number of loops that need to be added so that the control sample does not narrow on the elastic. Now find out the interval between additions: 25 sts: 3 sts = 8 sts. Therefore, before the yoke you need to add 1 loop every 8 loops in one row. It is better to make additions from broaches (see Fig. 112, a) so that the new loops are less noticeable. In the next row you can start the yoke pattern, it will certainly match the pattern.

* Sometimes the knitting is gathered in front of the yoke. The gathers are placed at a distance of 4-6 cm from the armholes. If the gathers are thick, then knit 2 loops together in one row and then begin the yoke. To make the assemblies more beautiful, we recommend loosening the structure of the pattern by gradually changing the knitting needles: before reaching the yoke of 8-10 cm, you need to change the knitting needles, take one full size larger. Having knitted 1.5 - 2 cm, replace the knitting needles, take another full size larger, and so on every 1.5 - 2 cm. If you don’t have the required knitting needle numbers, then try knitting more and more loosely with knitting needles of the same number, but Keep in mind that this is not exactly easy for beginning knitters.