If, when buying cosmetics, you are accustomed to reading the ingredients on the back of the package, you have probably noticed more than once such an ingredient as Glyceryl Stearate. This ingredient has been used in cosmetics for a long time; it is practically indispensable for all types of products. Creams, shampoos, shower gels, many popular products contain glyceryl stearate. What is this essential ingredient, what does it consist of and what effect does it have on the skin? Can it cause allergies? This article will answer these questions.
Harm of surfactants: myth or reality
Even at school, during chemistry lessons, children learn that surfactants are quite harmful. This is not a myth, since those that were common in the production of household chemicals in the last century were produced mainly from oil. Today, manufacturers have moved away from this manufacturing method.
This is due to the fact that, firstly, it is cheaper to produce surfactants from natural ingredients, and secondly, GOST standards and international quality standards still oblige us to make products as safe as possible for the consumer. Therefore, if you see that a shampoo or face cream contains one or another surfactant, do not rush to return this cosmetic product to the store shelf.
One of the most commonly used surfactants today is Glyceryl Stearate. In cosmetics, hair products and even household chemicals. It seems to be added to all foods. This is no coincidence, because glyceryl stearate is cheap to obtain, it is absolutely safe, and even has a beneficial effect on the skin.
Why is glyceryl stearate needed?
Any cosmetic product is multicomponent in its composition. Take any cream or shampoo and break it down into its components. You will see that the white or transparent liquid that is familiar to you consists of extracts from plants, decoctions, and oils. Now mix it all up and what do you get? Of course, it will be a non-uniform creamy consistency.
That's why manufacturers of cosmetics and household chemicals came up with so-called emulsifiers. These compounds make it possible to maintain a uniform consistency for products consisting of substances of different densities and thicknesses. Without emulsifiers, it would not be possible to create anything that modern women are used to using.
For the face, shampoo, conditioner, makeup remover lotion - all these products include oils. The oil helps the skin look healthier, nourishes and moisturizes it. But try pouring a little oil into a container of water. You will see that the oil will remain floating on the surface since it is lighter than water.
Emulsifiers allow conventional cosmetic products to maintain an attractive appearance in the form of a homogeneous cream or liquid. Glyceryl stearate is also an emulsifier. If manufacturers did not use glyceryl stearate in cosmetics, any cosmetic products would immediately turn into an incomprehensible formation consisting of several phases.
How is glyceryl stearate obtained?
Glyceryl stearate is synthesized in the laboratory from glycerol and stearic acid. This product is non-toxic, harmless, and is most often used in the pharmaceutical industry as an emulsifier. Its main purpose is to maintain the desired consistency of the product. In addition, without emulsifiers, oil-based substances would split into several phases. Harmful microorganisms would certainly form on the surface of the oil phase. Emulsifiers, and glyceryl stearate is one of them, allow the cosmetic product to maintain the desired appearance, and also care for the skin and make it softer.
Benefit
We explained why Glyceryl Stearate is used in cosmetics. Reviews from pharmacists, cosmetologists and people working in the production of cosmetics indicate that glyceryl stearate is considered a fairly useful substance.
Glycerin has emollient properties, and Glyceryl Stearate takes on these same qualities. In cosmetics it is used as an additional moisturizing component that gives the skin softness. Being present in the cream, it is able to fill wrinkles and cracks in the skin and bring moisture to the upper layer of the dermis. When glyceryl stearate is added to shampoos, after use the hair becomes softer and more beautiful.
Glyceryl Stearate in cosmetics: harm
Could this compound, which is often used as an ingredient in cosmetics, be dangerous? Glyceryl stearate is not recommended for use by those who are allergic to this substance. In other cases, to date, no negative effects on the skin have been identified, only benefits.
However, some recent studies suggest that glyceryl stearate, when deeply penetrated under the dermis, can push moisture to the surface of the skin, thereby drying it out. The study was carried out in this way: glyceryl stearate was applied to the dermis in its pure form and in large quantities. You understand that you are unlikely to have the opportunity to generously lubricate your face with a large amount of glyceryl stearate.
Glyceryl stearate derivatives
One commonly used variety of this compound is Glyceryl Stearate SE. In cosmetics, this substance is also used as an emulsifier, and the letters SE mean that this compound “self-emulsifies.” It is produced in the form of granules and is used in cosmetics consisting of water and oil. Not used in food products. It has the same effect as glyceryl stearate, that is, it softens and moisturizes the skin.
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate is also used quite often in cosmetics. The word "citrate" can cause concern. And completely in vain! This compound is a mixture of citric acid and oils, and therefore the compound is not toxic. Unlike regular glyceryl stearate, it gives cosmetics a lemon aroma.
Alcohol - Ethyl alcohol
Natural cosmetics use ethyl alcohol, a product of processing plant raw materials. Used as a solvent, emulsifier, thickener, softener, and to dissolve ingredients. Increases the fluidity of cosmetics, reduces foaming processes, and has transport functions. It has a hemostatic effect on the skin and tightens pores. In high concentrations, may irritate sensitive skin.
Cetearyl Alcohol - Cetearyl alcohol
A mixture of cetyl and stearic alcohol. May be of natural or synthetic origin. Naturally occurring cetearyl alcohol is obtained from coconut oil. It is resistant to oxygen, light and air, and is not subject to autoxidation. In cosmetics it is used as a solvent, emulsifier, thickener, increases the viscosity of oil/water emulsion systems, and thereby their stability. Cetearyl alcohol is used to “soften cosmetics” and improve the consistency of creams. In addition, it has a positive effect on the condition of the skin, helping it resist harmful environmental influences.
Cetearyl Olivate - Cetearyl olivate
Natural emulsifier obtained from Olive oil. Provides the structure of creams necessary for penetration into the skin and promotes uniform mixing of moisturizing components. In cosmetics it also serves as a lipid barrier protector, reducing the risk of skin damage.
Cetearyl Wheat Straw Glycosides - Cetearyl wheat bran glycosides
Natural emulsifying base of plant origin, obtained from wheat bran and cetearyl alcohol. It is used to obtain fairly dense, stable emulsions, which, when applied to the skin, create a feeling of light and delicate texture, silky to the touch. It has a moisturizing effect on the skin, restores the natural level of lipids, and creates an insulating layer of a protective barrier. vitamin A.
Coco-Glucoside - Coconut glucoside
A soft foaming substance obtained from dried coconut meat and fruit sugar. Used as a foaming agent, conditioner and emulsifier. Gives cosmetics foaming ability, imparts mild cleaning properties, helps dissolve dirt and sebum. This promotes better penetration of the moisturizing components contained in the product into the skin. In hair products - smoothes the hair structure and adds volume. No side effects of coconut glucoside were found; it can be used for any skin type and for children's cosmetics.
Citric Acid - Citric acid
A white crystalline substance found in many fruits and vegetables, in general - in about half of food products. Citric acid is found in large quantities in citrus fruits (in lemons and ramp the concentration can reach 8% of the dry weight of the product), in berries, pine needles, and Chinese lemongrass. Esters and salts of citric acid are called citrates. It has the properties of a natural preservative and antioxidant. In cosmetics it helps tighten enlarged facial skin pores, whitening, and cleansing.
Dehydroacetic Acid - Dehydroacetic acid
A white, odorless powdery substance with bactericidal and antifungal effects. Prepared by boiling acetoacetic ether with sodium bicarbonate. It is used as a preservative, as it has the ability to prevent the proliferation of bacteria and fungi, protecting products from spoilage. It is found in a wide range of cosmetics: cosmetics for bath and shower, for and against tanning, for the care of facial skin, hair, nails, and in decorative cosmetics. Dehydroacetic acid has been recognized as a safe ingredient as a preservative for cosmetics.
Parfum (Fragrance) - Perfumed fragrance
Synthetic or natural substances added to cosmetics to impart a pleasant aroma. Essential oils, plant extracts, animal products (ambergris, musk) are natural fragrances and are usually used to prepare natural or organic cosmetics. Synthetic fragrances have a much wider range of odors and are used in perfumes, cosmetics, and household chemicals. Fragrances do not have any effect on the skin, as they are added to products in small quantities.
Galactoarabinan - Galactoarabinan
Natural polysaccharide obtained from larch. It is also a natural component of the skin. In cosmetics it acts as a natural film former and protects the skin from moisture loss. Contains antioxidants, helps resist signs of aging, makes skin more elastic, moisturizes it, evens out skin color and makes it healthier.
Glyceryl Oleate - Glyceryl oleate
A natural emulsifier obtained from vegetable oils with a high concentration of oleic acid. Widely used in cosmetics as a stabilizer. Has a softening and immunostimulating effect on the skin. Restores the lipid layer of the skin, improves skin permeability to other substances contained in the cosmetic product.
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate - Glyceryl stearate citrate
A natural water-in-oil emulsifier obtained by mixing certain fatty acids from vegetable oils with glycerin. In cosmetics it is commonly used as a formula stabilizer to prevent ingredients from separating. It has a softening, moisturizing effect on the skin and helps retain moisture in the skin. Has a beneficial effect on dry or chapped skin.
Glyceryl Stearate SE (self-emulsifying) - Emulsifying glyceryl stearate
Product of esterification of glycerol and natural stearic acid. It has a white or cream color and a waxy consistency. Widely used in cosmetic products: cleansers, creams, lotions, in various cosmetic bases, decorative cosmetics as a thickening, distributing, softening agent, prevents the formation of a crust on the surface of the product from exposure to oxygen. Recognized as a safe ingredient in cosmetics and personal care products. Softens and smoothes the skin, gives it a smooth appearance, prevents moisture evaporation, forming a protective barrier on the skin.
Iron Oxide - Iron Oxide
Red-brown oxide. Hematite is found in nature as a widespread mineral. It is a natural pigment that allows you to give cosmetics and decorative cosmetics any shade from yellow to reddish-brown. Does not cause skin irritation, is suitable even for sensitive types, absorbs excess sebum, does not clog pores, allowing the skin to breathe. Reflects and scatters light on the surface of the skin, visually smoothes the skin. Often used as a component of mineral cosmetics.
Lauryl Glucoside - Lauryl glycoside
It is synthesized from natural raw materials during the rectification of vegetable fats (coconut oil and glucose). In cosmetics it acts as an emulsifier, dispersant, natural foaming agent, and increases the viscosity of the consistency. It has a mild cleansing effect and is used in children's products and intimate hygiene products. It has surfactant properties - it breaks down fats and impurities on the surface of the skin, after which they are easily removed from the skin or hair. In gels and creams it cleanses and softens the skin; in shampoos it provides a light conditioning effect and makes subsequent hair styling easier.
Mica - Mica
A mineral found in rocks and the earth's crust, in rocks of volcanic origin. Hypoallergenic, well accepted by the skin, easily distributed over the surface, creates a light, pleasant texture for cosmetic products. Serves as a thickener, reduces the oiliness of fat-containing products, and is used as a base for pearlescent pigments.
Forms the basis of mineral cosmetics. Mica looks natural on the skin, reflects and diffuses light, which creates the effect of a healthy glow on the skin, visually reducing skin unevenness and evening out the complexion. Mattifies oily skin types without clogging pores and absorbs excess oil.
Potassium Sorbate - Potassium Sorbate
Potassium salt of sorbic acid of natural origin is a white, odorless powder. In cosmetics it is used as a preservative, active against bacteria, fungi, yeast. The active ingredient is active sorbic acid, which is released when dissolved in water. It is considered the safest and most proven preservative and is used all over the world, however, different countries have established their own standards for its permissible concentration in cosmetics and food products. To enhance effectiveness, it can be used together with ascorbic acid. It is used in all types of cosmetic products: creams, lotions, shampoos, decorative cosmetics, and for the preparation of homemade cosmetics.
Propanediol - Propanediol
EU certified substance obtained biotechnologically from wheat grains. The liquid is transparent in color with a viscous consistency, belongs to higher fatty alcohols, and mixes well with water. Widely used in cosmetics, mainly as a solvent for solid ingredients or as an extractant to extract active components from natural raw materials. Propylene glycol is not added directly to cosmetics, but may be included in some non-alcoholic plant extracts. The content in the finished product is usually negligibly low. When used in cosmetics as a moisturizing or light antibacterial component, highly purified propylene glycol is usually used, which does not contain impurities harmful to the skin - the content of such a substance in an amount of up to 25% (Propanediol is indicated in the first positions in the list of ingredients) is considered harmless.
Saccharide Isomerate - Saccharide isomerate
A natural mixture of glucose and fructose, which can be obtained from foods rich in monosaccharides (for example, honey, grape juice). In cosmetics it acts as a soft emulsifier, which gives creams stability. It has strong moisturizing properties, reduces dryness, reduces sensitivity, and relieves irritation. Provides effective protection against adverse external factors, protects the skin from moisture loss, creating prolonged hydration. No negative effects have been identified from the use of saccharide isomerate.
Silica - Silicon dioxide
A mineral often found in nature. Root vegetables and fruits, brown rice, and whole grains are very rich in silicon - they absorb this element from fertile soils. Silicon dioxide is found in quartz and sand. In cosmetics it acts as a soft abrasive and polishing component, a natural absorbent and thickener, and an inorganic UV filter. In nature, it strengthens plant cells, silicon has the same effect on skin cells, improves the synthesis of collagen and keratin, and is often used in protective creams (protects the skin from UVA and UVB radiation).
Sodium Cocoamphoacetate - Sodium cocoamphoacetate
A surfactant derived from the fatty acids of coconut oil (coconut acid). In cosmetology it is used as a foaming agent and has mild cleaning properties. Creates a pleasant consistency of the product. Typically used as a component for liquid cleansers, gels, and shampoos. In hair products - increases elasticity, improves the structure of damaged hair, and adds shine.
Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate - Sodium glutamate cocoyl
A surfactant that is a compound of glutamic acid.
In cosmetology it is used as a foaming agent, mild detergent, and emulsifier. Has antioxidant properties. Often used in hair washes and shampoos, it creates a feeling of softness, moisturization of the skin, and has a conditioning effect.
Sodium Dehydroacetate - Sodium Dehydroacetate
White powder, tasteless and odorless, used in a wide range of cosmetics for skin care (creams, tanning products, shaving gels) and hair, in decorative cosmetics, as well as in the food industry. Acts as a preservative: prevents the proliferation of microorganisms and protects cosmetics and personal care products from damage.
Sodium Hyaluronate - Sodium hyaluronate
Polysaccharide, soluble in water. Sodium salt of hyaluronic acid, which is obtained using a biotechnological method. In terms of its properties and activity, it is an analogue of hyaluronic acid: it improves tissue regeneration, making the skin smooth and elastic. It has pronounced moisturizing properties, forming a protective film on the skin that retains moisture. It is often included in high-quality protective and anti-age creams, eye care products, etc.
Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate - Sodium lauryl sarcosinate
Derived from sarcosine, a natural amino acid found in vegetables and fruits.
In cosmetics it is often used as a soft foaming agent, surfactant, and conditioner. A gentle cleanser that is safe for the skin, while at the same time effectively removing dirt, bacteria, and sebum. Does not irritate even sensitive skin. In cosmetic products it is well absorbed and enhances the penetration into the skin of other substances contained in it, especially vitamin A and C. When used for hair care, it returns vitality and radiance to it, carefully cleansing and improving its structure.
Sodium Lauryl Glucose Carboxylate - Lauryl glucoside carboxylase
A natural alternative to aggressive surfactants. A very soft natural foaming agent that creates a homogeneous consistency of the product, obtained by reacting coconut and palm oil with sugar and starch. In cosmetics, it is usually used in products for washing and cleansing the skin, and in hair shampoos. No negative or allergic reactions were detected when using this substance.
Sodium PCA - Sodium pyrrolidone carbonate
A natural substance obtained from vegetables, sugar and starch. It has a composition close to human skin and is one of the main components of the secretion of the sweat glands. In cosmetology it is valued for its excellent moisturizing properties: it naturally softens the skin, helping it retain moisture, and effectively fights aging.
A natural emulsifier based on fatty acids of olive oil. In cosmetics it provides a pleasant consistency and structural strength of the product. It is perfectly absorbed and perceived by the skin, prevents skin loss of moisture, softens and hydrates it. Hypoallergenic.
Sucrose Cocoate - Sucrose Cocoate
A natural substance obtained from the fatty acids of coconut oil and sucrose ester. The finished liquid has a viscous consistency and light yellow color, and has pronounced moisturizing and softening properties. Sucrose cocoate absorbs water and, when applied to the skin, maintains an optimal level of moisture in it.
Often used in cleansers (gels, foams, makeup remover milk) and moisturizers.
Titanium Dioxide - Titanium dioxide
White powdery substance. In cosmetology it is used in a highly purified form, does not cause irritation or allergies, is neutral, and is suitable even for sensitive skin. It is used in a finely dispersed form, so it is not noticeable on the skin; it forms a homogeneous mass with other components of the cosmetic product, giving it a white color. In decorative cosmetics it is used as a white pigment to produce pearlescent pigments. In cosmetics, it most often acts as an inorganic filter that protects the skin from UVA and UVB radiation due to its reflective properties.
Tricaprylin - Tricaprylin
The fat-like substance, usually obtained from coconut oil, is also found in animal fats. In cosmetics it is used as a softener, solvent in creams, creams, lotions, hair conditioners, etc. Tricaprylin increases the penetration of other components of the product into the skin, and also nourishes and moisturizes the skin.
Xanthan Gum - Xanthan wax
A brownish, odorless powder of plant origin, a polysaccharide with a high molecular weight, is formed by fermentation using a special bacterium - Xanthomonas campestris. Xanthan has properties valuable for cosmetology: high stabilizing activity, high viscosity at low concentrations, solubility in water, stability to temperature changes, etc. Most often it is used as a stabilizer, thickener, emulsifier, has moisturizing properties, creates a protective film on the surface of the skin that prevents the skin from losing moisture.
Here's a list of some of the ingredients in beauty products that may confuse you.
Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Definitely, the name itself implies that the component is unnatural. In fact, caprylic/capric triglycerides are a mixture of plant sugars and fatty acids derived from palm and coconut oils.
As a result of using this component, the product is lighter in consistency and has a longer shelf life. This product is also very delicate and suitable for almost any skin type. This is one of the reasons why this component is so often found in cosmetic products.
Cetearyl alcohol
We are taught not to use products that contain alcohol due to impurities and irritation to the skin. Indeed, benzyl alcohol is a skin irritant and it is not recommended to use products containing it if you have sensitive skin.
Cetearyl alcohol is a combination of fatty alcohols derived from plant sources such as coconut or palm oils. It is used in cosmetics as a surfactant and emulsifying agent and its effect is much milder than that of benzyl alcohol.
Xanthan gum
All our lives we have seen this component in food products, but we do not know for sure what it is. It is unlikely that its name will seem natural to you.
Xanth gum may not have a very attractive name, but it is just a carbohydrate obtained from plant-based bacteria. This non-toxic thickener is harmless and is used in cosmetics to prevent the product from thickening over time.
Coco glucoside
Derived from dried coconut meat and fruit sugar, this mild surfactant is often used in the production of cosmetic products. Coco-glucoside is gentle enough to be suitable for all skin types, it is biodegradable and non-toxic.
It should not be confused with other surfactants that are less safe.
Sodium hyaluronate
This component constantly appears in many anti-aging cosmetic products. Sodium hyaluronate is sodium chloride of hyaluronic acid. Small molecules allow this component to penetrate the skin faster.
Sodium hyaluronate retains water, which gives the skin a hydrated appearance.
Glyceryl stearate citrate
This component simply must be toxic. But that's not true. Glyceryl stearate citrate is a mixture of vegetable oils and citric acid. In cosmetics it is used as a softening and aroma-giving agent.
Other designation: glyceryl stearates
Help
Glyceryl stearate is a “green” nonionic emulsifier; a white waxy substance - an ester of stearic acid and glycerin, obtained biotechnically or as a result of processing raw materials of plant origin. Has no smell. It may have a creamy tint or no color at all. It has a sweetish taste.
The main purpose of glyceryl stearate is to use it in cosmetics as an emulsifier and dispersant (improving the formation of component suspensions and emulsions). It can also be a thickener, softener and film former. In addition, glyceryl stearate prolongs the shelf life of cosmetics and prevents the components of the composition from separating.
It is used for the production of creams, lotions, liquid powder, mascara, massage products, as well as shampoos and hair conditioners.
Glyceryl stearate is a common component of a wide variety of cosmetics, both industrial and natural. In cosmetics, glyceryl stearate is responsible for the formation of a thin film - a protective barrier that prevents the loss of moisture from the surface of the skin and prevents the action of free radicals, which have a detrimental effect on the condition of the skin.
In addition, glyceryl stearate is used as an active moisturizing and softening component in the production of makeup bases. Its effect is not only to soften, but also to smooth the skin by filling small facial wrinkles on its surface. Glyceryl stearate also soothes and strengthens the skin, protecting it from cracking.
Glyceryl stearate is a common component of not only skincare, but also decorative cosmetics: mascara, eye shadow, eyeliner, etc. It helps prevent the formation of “clumps” and sticking of mascara on eyelashes, rolling of shadows and spreading of eyeliner. In addition, this component ensures a softer and more uniform application of cosmetics. The effect of glyceryl stearate, in addition, is to preserve the structure of substances at lower temperatures (prevents freezing of products).
Glyceryl stearate is safe and, contrary to some rumors, does not have any negative effects on health. The only caveat is individual intolerance to the component (can cause allergic irritation).
Glyceryl stearate is a safe food additive. Non-toxic. Does not irritate the skin.
Decomposes in nature.
Designed for use in skin and hair care products; increasing the resistance of the emulsion to low temperatures and extending the shelf life of cosmetics.
In the composition of cosmetic products it can be an emulsifier, stabilizer, softening component, thickener, dispersant.
Helps reduce oiliness in some products.
It is also used in cosmetics for children.
Glyceryl stearate is a cream-colored, waxy chemical derivative of glycerin and stearic acid. The ingredient is found in cosmetics and skin care products such as lotions, gels, creams, shampoos and conditioners. It acts as a lubricant and makes the skin soft and smooth. Glyceryl stearate may also be labeled as glyceryl stearate monostearate.
How do you get it?
Glyceryl stearate is extracted from oils: coconut kernel oil (coconut cake), soybean oil or vegetable oil. It is also released by the skin.
Where and what is it used for?
Other properties of glyceryl stearate make it ideal for use in cosmetics and skin care products. This ingredient helps create a barrier on the skin and prevents moisture loss. It protects against free radicals, which can cause great harm to skin and overall health. Such radicals appear in the atmosphere due to cigarette smoke, radiation and pollution. With age, radicals accumulate in the skin and become more dangerous.
Glyceryl stearate is used in makeup bases as an ingredient that gives the product a pleasant softness on the face. It also helps fill in fine lines and wrinkles, smoothing the skin.
In skin care products, glyceryl stearate is used for the same purposes as makeup base. Thanks to it, lotions and creams help moisturize the skin and prevent cracking and dryness of the skin.
Other cosmetic products also contain glyceryl stearate in their composition. These are mascara, eyeliner and eye shadow. Glyceryl stearate prevents drying and sticking of mascara on the eyelashes, thanks to it, eye shadow is applied as conveniently as possible and does not roll, and the application of eyeliner becomes soft and pleasant.
Glyceryl stereate helps prevent cosmetics from freezing, as well as drying crusts on the surface of lotions and creams. It reduces the feeling of oiliness of the cream when applying it to the skin.
Experts recommend storing any cosmetics containing this substance away from heat and light sources. It is best to store them in an airtight container.