You will need yarn of bright colors, quite thick and a hook number 2.5. I knitted the entire warmer with half-stitches (PS), single crochets (SC), double crochets (S1H)
HEAD. Link 3 VP. knit 6 PS into the 1st loop, this is 1 row
2p - from each loop knit 2 PS = 12 loops
3p - double every second loop = 18 PS
4p - double every third stitch = 24 sts
Knit 5-6 r without increases
7 r - double every fifth loop = 30 PS
Knit rows 8-12 without increases
PLEASE NOTE - I use a pin to mark the starting stitch of the row each time so as not to get lost when counting.
We begin to knit a row of cloves with red yarn. To do this, we knit 2PS into a warp loop, skip one loop and again 2PS into one loop. And so on until the end of the row. This is row 13
14r - I knit in yellow
15r - alternately 1 red PS, 1 yellow PS
17r - red cloves again.
Everything here is still without any increments, the same 30 loops.
I introduce blue yarn. Please note that I knit the 18th row in half-columns behind the back wall. I didn’t break the red thread and knitted red “fans” behind the front wall of the loop on the same 18th row.
This is a diagram of red fans
19r - I double every fifth loop = 36 PS (blue color)
20R - I double every sixth loop = 42 PS
21r- Using orange yarn I knit PS behind the back wall of the warp. Using blue yarn I knit fans behind the front wall of the base according to the same pattern.
22p - double every third loop = 56PS
23r we knit in half-stitches without increments
We begin to form the heating pad cap, knit the back in blue (do not break the orange thread)
24r- 2 PS, 5VP. return by knitting chain stitches in half columns and knitting the circle to the end.
25R - double every 4th loop, I got 82P
Mark the middle of the front and back with pins and add 2-3 stitches in each row in these marked places until you get 98-100 loops. It took me 6 rows to make these increases.
Then we knit 5 more rows with blue yarn without increases and change the color
We knit 2 rows with white yarn, preferably in single crochets (I use PS here)
Then, behind the back wall we knit a PS in green, and behind the front wall we knit 4 PS into EACH loop with the same thread. These half-columns will fall like this in a wave.
We knit approximately 7-8 rows with green yarn
Then again 2 rows of white yarn RLS
And again in the white row behind the front wall we knit 4 PS into each loop, and behind the back wall we knit a PS with dark green yarn without increases. Then another row of PS and finish the heating pad, knitting 4-5 C1H into each loop
Remember, we didn’t break the orange thread around the neck? We have the front wall left unknitted, so we knit 3-4 orange PS into it in each loop
Let's start with decor and details. For flowers I knit 3VP, in the 1st I knit as many C1H as will fit, then in a different color I knit 4-5 C1H into each loop
BEAK-10VP I close it in a ring and knit it in a spiral RLS, gradually decreasing the loops until there are 3 pieces left. I tighten them with a needle.
BEARD 2 parts - I knit in the round, like a bead, the last 3 rows without decreases.
For the COMB on the top of the head I knit such a zigzag with red loops. Then in each loop I knit 5 C1H in the outer tracks and 5 C2H in the middle track
It turns out to be such a comb. top view, side view
Here's what happened in the end
I fill my head with padding polyester. I knit a circle C1H and sew it on the wrong side so that the padding polyester does not fall out.
Feathers for the tail. In chains of VP I tie 3-4 C1H into each loop, they twist themselves like that. Feathers of different lengths, typed 22, 26, 32 VP. When I sewed on the tail, I realized that these feathers were not enough and added 2 more pieces.
I knitted flowers for the wings. I’m not giving you the diagrams, you can find them anyway. Maybe someone would like other wings...
You will need yarn of bright colors, quite thick and a hook number 2.5. I knitted the entire warmer with half-stitches (PS), single crochets (SC), double crochets (S1H)
HEAD. Link 3 VP. knit 6 PS into the 1st loop, this is 1 row
2p - from each loop knit 2 PS = 12 loops
3p - double every second loop = 18 PS
4p - double every third stitch = 24 sts
Knit 5-6 r without increases
7 r - double every fifth loop = 30 PS
Knit rows 8-12 without increases
PLEASE NOTE: I use a pin to mark the starting stitch of the row each time so as not to get lost when counting.
3.
We begin to knit a row of cloves with red yarn. To do this, we knit 2PS into a warp loop, skip one loop and again 2PS into one loop. And so on until the end of the row. This is row 13
14r - I knit in yellow
15r - alternately 1 red PS, 1 yellow PS
17r - red cloves again.
Everything here is still without any increments, the same 30 loops.
4.
I introduce blue yarn. Please note that I knit the 18th row in half-columns behind the back wall. I didn’t break the red thread and knitted red “fans” behind the front wall of the loop on the same 18th row.
5.
This is a diagram of red fans
6.
19r - I double every fifth loop = 36 PS (blue color)
20R - I double every sixth loop = 42 PS
21r- Using orange yarn I knit PS behind the back wall of the warp. Using blue yarn I knit fans behind the front wall of the base according to the same pattern.
7.
22p - double every third loop = 56PS
23r we knit in half columns without increments
8.
We begin to form the heating pad cap, knit the back in blue (do not break the orange thread)
24r- 2 PS, 5VP. return, knitting chain stitches in half-stitches and knitting the circle to the end.
25R - double every 4th loop, I got 82P
Mark the middle of the front and back with pins and add 2-3 stitches in each row in these marked places until you get 98-100 loops. It took me 6 rows to make these increases.
9.
Then we knit 5 more rows with blue yarn without increases and change the color
We knit 2 rows with white yarn, preferably in single crochets (I use PS here)
Then, behind the back wall we knit a PS in green, and behind the front wall we knit 4 PS into EACH loop with the same thread. These half-columns will fall like this wave
10.
We knit approximately 7-8 rows with green yarn
Then again 2 rows of white yarn sc.
And again in the white row behind the front wall we knit 4 PS into each loop, and behind the back wall we knit a PS with dark green yarn without increases. Then another row of PS and finish the heating pad, knitting 4-5 C1H into each loop
11.
Remember, we didn’t break the orange thread around the neck? We have the front wall left unknitted, so we knit 3-4 orange PS into it in each loop
12.
Let's start with the decor and details. For flowers I knit 3VP, in the 1st I knit as many C1H as will fit, then in a different color I knit 4-5 C1H into each loop
BEAK-10VP I close it in a ring and knit it in a spiral RLS, gradually decreasing the loops until there are 3 pieces left. I tighten them with a needle.
BEARD 2 parts - knit in the round, like a bead, the last 3 rows without decreases
13.
For the COMB on the top of the head I knit such a zigzag with red loops. Then in each loop I knit 5 C1H in the outer tracks and 5 C2H in the middle track
14.
It turns out to be such a comb. top view, side view
15.
Here's what happened in the end 
I fill my head with padding polyester. I knit a circle C1H and sew it on the wrong side so that the padding polyester does not fall out.
28.
Feathers for the tail. In chains of VP I tie 3-4 C1H into each loop, they twist themselves like that. Feathers of different lengths, typed 22, 26, 32 VP. When I sewed on the tail, I realized that these feathers were not enough and added 2 more pieces.
29.
I knitted flowers for the wings. I’m not giving you the diagrams, you can find them anyway. Maybe someone would like other wings...
30.
Well, I finally put it all together. This is how the heating pad turned out.
31.
The tail is closer
32.
Good afternoon, dear needlewomen and all blog guests!
Once on the Internet I saw a photo of a beautiful knitted warmer for a teapot with roses and was inspired to knit such a cute little thing.
I don't cover the teapot with a heating pad, I just use it as kitchen decor. The teapot is dressed like this, and it looks nice next to it.
Three centuries ago they put hot water bottles on a teapot or samovar. Then these were dolls or chickens sewn from several dense layers of fabric with fluffy skirts. Warmers were decorated with embroidery, special decorative or protective ornaments. Housewives made warmers for the teapot with their own hands especially as gifts for guests.
You can’t put a heating pad on the kettle immediately after brewing tea; the tea leaves will simply dry out.
Such heating pads were previously needed for tea ceremonies and tea parties without fuss. Then at the end of the tea party, to prevent the tea from getting cold, they put a heating pad on the teapot.
Today, needlewomen sew and knit teapot warmers, which are probably more decorative.
While my warmer was waiting for its time to go on air, I accumulated many more unusual ideas for knitted warmers, sometimes unexpected, photos of which I will show you.
Knitted teapot warmer with roses
Using my simple example, I’ll tell you how to make a heating pad for a teapot, and you can use your imagination and make it your own.
We have already knitted, today we have a teapot warmer with roses.
We use leftover yarn. They can always find interesting uses. I have a selection, quite interesting, and some downright unusual.
For the cover itself I used green yarn, for the flowers I chose pink. I took knitting needles number 2.5.
We cast on approximately 41 loops + 2 edge loops across the width of half the diameter of the teapot. You can tie the heating pad so that it sits tightly on the teapot, especially if it will perform a practical function, or you can make it looser.
We knit the fabric with the selected pattern. I knitted with an elastic band:
Row 1 – k1, p1.
2nd row – k1, yarn over, purl
3rd and all the following rows: knit the front row together with the yarn over, yarn over, remove the back row.
Having knitted about 10 centimeters, I switched to knitting in stockinette stitch. We begin to make decreases: in each front row I knitted two loops together in four places: along the edges and in the middle part.
Having knitted 6-7 centimeters in this way, we close the remaining loops, tightening them.
We knit the second half of the cover in the same way.
Then we sew both parts on both sides at the top and bottom, about two centimeters. We need unsewn slots for the spout and handle of the teapot.
We put a knitted heating pad on the teapot and decorate it with roses.
I also knitted roses. I knitted the strips using stockinette stitch on 65 stitches, 8 rows wide. We twist the strips into roses, securing them with a needle and thread.
In the description I found of knitting such a heating pad, it was also recommended to knit a round platform-lid and sew roses on it. But I decided to sew the roses directly onto the knitted cover.
As you can see, it is very easy to knit a heating pad for a teapot.
You can also knit the cover in another way: with straight fabric, without decreasing the loops. Make it higher and tie it with braid on top of the teapot.
The side seams can have button closures or ribbon ties.
And make the decor not only with roses, but also with other flowers, as well as berries, pom-poms, use various patterns, knit a heating pad for a teapot in the shape of a pumpkin, house, cat or dog.
Ideas for knitted teapot warmers
knitted chicken warmer for teapot
Do you like to drink tea for a long time? Place this chicken on a teapot, and it will keep the drink warm for a long time. And such a motley pattern will look wonderful in the interior of the kitchen.
For the chicken you will need:
- 450 g of coffee-colored yarn, suitable for: Lotus, Ogonyok, Podmoskovnaya(thread thickness under hook number 4),
- 2 balls = 150 g of cotton thread, for example from the Kirov plant: Narcissus, Chamomile, Lotus(color contrasting with coffee, to create diversity),
- 50 g of red yarn,
- 15 g of yellow threads,
- padding polyester (15x15 cm),
- a pair of toy eyes or buttons.
- tool for work - hook number 5.
We take two balls, connect the two threads into one - motley. It turns out to be quite thick, so you need to take a larger hook number - № 5
.
2.
The body of the chicken is a dome-shaped cap. Type of knitting - lush columns in a checkerboard pattern. Their knitting pattern is in the lower corner of the photo.
The direction of work is in a circle. Number of lush columns in each row: 12, 18, 29, 38, 46. The difference between two adjacent numbers will show how many lush columns need to be added to increase the diameter of the top of the dome
3.
Next, stopping adding loops, we knit 8-10 rows of lush columns - the height of the heating pad. It can be changed if necessary if the dimensions of your kettle are different. The last row is double crochets.
4.
The chicken's head is a pair of circles with a diameter of 10 cm. The knitting is simple: alternating rows - double crochets in one, single crochets in the other.
6 air loops, 12, 24, 34, 44, 48, 54 - the number of loops in each row (including added ones).
5.
Scallop. Place the mugs one on top of the other (back to back). We tie part of the circle (where the scallop is located) with red thread in single crochets, connecting both layers at once. This is the basis for the scallop itself
6.
On these loops you need to knit two rows of lush stitches
7.
Beak. To the right of the scallop we knit 7 single crochets with yellow thread in the same way as we knitted the base row for the scallop. Next we knit a double stitch, removing 1 loop at the edges: 7, 5, 5, 3, 1
8.
On the opposite side of the beak (“back of the head”), knit two layers of circles in single crochets using a working thread
15.
At the bottom of the head, tie a “collar” - 2 rows of lush columns
16.
We knit the “collar” first on one circle, then, without cutting the thread, we immediately move to another. Having finished the first row, turn the hook. We do the second row in the opposite direction
17.
Beard. Attach a red thread to the fabric. In the first row in the center of the “collar” we pull out 15-20 loops. This is the basis for the next mating
18.
On this line of loops we knit 1 row of fluffy stitches.
Place a small piece of padding polyester between the two circles of the head so that it “swells” slightly.
Sew it to the body
19.
Glue the eyes
20.
Tail. We knit a triangle according to the pattern. Fold the finished part in half. Sew to the body
21.
If you are a hot tea lover, then this article is for you! A heating pad placed on the kettle will help keep the tea hot for a long time. The taste of the tea turns out to be more intense, because it is brewed stronger. And besides this, the heating pad will be a real table decoration. Of course, you can buy a ready-made item, but where is the guarantee that it will fit the size of your kettle? A more correct decision would be to knit this thing with your own hands.
Warmer "Hedgehog"
We will need:
- yarn p/w, 100 g per 250 m, coffee color - for the body and head of the hedgehog;
- yarn of any composition, 100g per 200m, gray melange, or gray and white - for needles;
- green yarn - for a heating pad;
- fine yarn:
- black – for the nose and muzzle;
- brown - for tightening the muzzle;
- light green - for leaves and grass;
-multi-colored – for flowers; - hooks;
- monofilament;
- sewing needle;
- needle with a large eye;
- decorative eyes or beads;
- wire for paws;
- costume jewelry for decoration;
- filler;
- acrylic paints and brush;
- buttons – 2 pcs.;
- kettle.
Description of knitting a heating pad for a teapot
The top of a heating pad, also known as the body of a hedgehog
We crochet sc:
- 1st round: 6 uncapped stitches in an amigurumi ring: we wrap the yarn around your finger in two turns and tie them with a b/n stitch. Remove the ring from your finger and, pulling the tail of the thread, tighten it;
- 2 rub. and 3rd: we make 6 additions each. R. Total 18 stlb b/n.;
- from 4r. at 9 rubles: +1 approx. in each row. Total 24 stb/n. We shift the places of additions so as not to lose the round shape of the part. Let's continue:
- from 10r. at 12 rubles: + 3 approx. in each R. In total we have 33 stlbs.
The main part of the heating pad for the kettle
We attach a light green thread and knit it in a spiral, making additions as necessary - the heating pad should repeat the shape of the teapot. In our example it turned out + 3 inc. in a row.
Having knitted to the spout and handle of the teapot, we divide the knitting into two parts. If the height of the spout and handle are different, then for the upper part we leave the loops skipped and knit the rest of the fabric in rotary rows to the desired level. Next we divide it into two parts. This is exactly the option in our master class. 3 stitches were left unknitted under the kettle handle.
We continue to make additions with our own hands on both halves of the heating pad for the teapot as its size increases. Having reached the maximum diameter, we then knit without any additions. In the case when the last r. The first half ends near the spout, then we knit a chain from VP and do not fasten it. Later we will use it to connect the two parts of the heating pad.
The type of rotary rows differs from spiral rows. To make a homogeneous knitting, we knit the 2nd half, starting with an imaginary continuation of the 1st row. 1st half, leaving a few stitches unknitted. For us it’s 3 stitches.
Having connected both parts of the heating pad, we connect them with a chain of VP. Its length should allow you to freely go around the spout of the kettle. We attach the SS chain to the 1st stitch of the row.
Next, we knit the heating pad with our own hands using a single piece of rotary fabric. In this case, we do not tie the chain under the spout, but knit the stem on the half loops of the chain. We continue knitting, checking the height of the teapot. At the same time, we leave space at the bottom for strapping.
We crochet along the edge of the cutout for the handle and the hole for the spout. We do 1 rub. RLS and 1p. SS.
We tie lush stems around the bottom of the heating pad. The technology is as follows: in the 1st p. of the row we knit a sc, in the 2nd we knit a fluffy st of 3-5 sc, then VP, sc in the 3rd p. So we continue crocheting until the end of the r. If you want to get a more embossed binding, then replace the sc between the lush posts with a connection. stlb.
For the fastener, we assemble a chain of VP of the required length. For us it is 4p. Next we knit the buttonhole directly. In our example, it requires 10 VP. Secure the SS loop at the 11th stitch from the hook. Check how the button fits into the loop.
We knit SS chains on half loops. We make the second loop in the same way as the first. We knit a SS on the second half loops of the chain and continue to knit a SS on the chain - loop, and then in a circle. In the photo the direction is shown by arrows. After making the connection. dc on the 2nd p., we complete the work. If desired, you can increase the width of the fastener by crocheting another row of connections. pillar.
Sew buttons on the leg. Or we use ready-made buttons with a stem.
Hedgehog
Torso
First, let's knit an additional internal part in the shape of a cone:
- 1st: 6 columns. without/n. in an amigurumi ring;
- 2 rub. and 3 rubles: + 6 increases in each rub. Total 18 tbsp. without nac.;
- from 4r. 7 rubles: + 3 increases each. R. Total 30 columns. without nac.;
- 8 rub. and 9 rubles: + 1 increase each. R. Total 32 pillars. without nac.
Last r. this internal part contains 1 column. smaller than the outer cone. The difference in size will allow you to freely fit one part into another.
Insert the inner cone into the top of the heating pad. Sew with monofilament, leaving a gap for stuffing. We put the filler into the top not very tightly so that the bottom does not stick out. There is no need to add filler along the side gap; for density, two cone parts are enough. We sew up the gap and try the heating pad on the teapot.
Head
Crochet according to the description:
- 1st: 6 columns. without nac. in an amigurumi ring;
- from 2 rub. 7 rubles: + 3 increases each. R. Total 24 tbsp;
- 8p.: + 6 ave. Total 30st.;
- from 9 p.m. 11 rubles each: crochet evenly, without increments;
- 12 rubles: – 3 decreases. 27 stitches left;
- 13 rubles: – 3 decreases. 24 sts left.
In each of the traces. rows we make 6 decreases. Having knitted to the minimum hole, we fill the part with filler with our own hands and finish knitting with decreases. We close the hole.
Ears
We mark the places for the ears.
We place the hook under the leg of the stem in the marked place and pull out the loop. We crochet a chain of 4 VPs. At a short distance we fix it with a CC on the head. This loop is the basis for the ear. We turn the work and tie this loop 6-8 posts. without/n. At the same time, we knit the columns by inserting the hook under the chain, and not into the loops. We complete the SS at the beginning of the chain. We bring the tails of the threads with a needle to the back of the head and secure them.
We embroider the mouth and nose with black thread. We start and end at the tip of the nose. We knit the very tip of the nose with black yarn:
- 1st row: 6 b/n columns in an amigurumi ring;
- from 2 rub. 4 rubles: + 6 approx. in every r. Total 24 columns. without/n.;
- from 5r. 7 rubles: no additions, knit evenly;
- 8 rubles: – 3 decreases. There are 21 pillars left.
Cut the thread, leaving a long end. Using it, we sew the tip of the nose onto the tip of the muzzle. Before this, we fill the part with filler.
The next step is to perform eye tightening. We mark the locations of the eyes with dots. Using a needle with a thin thread, we stitch these places with several stitches, creating depressions. We fasten the thread and hide its end.
If desired, we tint the depressions with diluted acrylic paint. Sew or glue the eyes.
We attach the head to the body.
Paws
Now we will knit the hedgehog's legs. Top ones first:
- 2 rub.: +2 approx. We have 8 columns;
- 3p.: 8 stlb;
- 4 rubles: -1 decrease. We have 7 columns;
- 5 rub. and 6p.: 7 stb.
Lower legs:
- 1st: 6 columns. without/n. in an amigurumi ring;
- 2 rub.: +3 approx. We have 9 columns;
- from 3 rub. for 5 rubles: 9 stlb;
- 6 rubles: -1 decrease. We have 8 columns;
- from 7r. for 13 rubles: 8 stb.
Cut the thread, leaving a long end.
If desired, color the paws. The technology is as follows: moisten half with water, dip 1/3 of the length into diluted brown paint, then dip the tips of the paws into black paint. Dry. Repeat the process if desired.
For the upper legs we take wire twice as long as needed. We twist the wire in half for one leg, pierce the body through a previously prepared hole (with a needle or knitting needle). We twist the wire for the second leg - see photo.
We string the legs onto the wire and fasten them to the body with the remaining ends of the threads.
We attach the lower legs in the same way. Only we pass the wire not all the way through the center, but around the circumference, between the layers (otherwise the top of the teapot will not fit under the heating pad). We give the paws the desired position.
The next stage is making your own fur coat for the hedgehog. We will make it from pompoms. We wind the prepared yarn onto a template (you can use a book). The winding should not be too tight; place something under the threads (see photo - we have curled paper). The number of turns is determined by the thickness of the yarn.
We tie it tightly, leaving long ends of the thread. We cut the strands between the bundles. It turned out to be a sufficient number of small pompoms. If you think that there are not enough of them, make a few more with your own hands.
We trim threads that clearly differ in length.
Now we will dress the hedgehog. We fasten the first pompom on the forehead: we pull out the ends of the threads under the leg of the post with a crochet hook, tie it with a straight knot, cut off the excess (but not right under the knot, leave small pieces to ensure that it does not come undone). Gradually tie all the pompoms on the head.
Now let's move on to the body. Similarly, we attach the pompoms with a crochet hook, tie them with a straight knot, and cut off the tails. Sequence of fastening - see photo.
After securing all the pompoms, we give the hedgehog a neat haircut with our own hands.
Knitted mushrooms
Mushroom crocheting patterns are similar, but differ in the number of loops.
Big fly agaric
hat
- from 2 rub. 11 rubles: + 2 increases each. row. We have 26 items;
- from 12 rub. 14 rubles: + 4 increases in each rub. We have 38 tbsp.
Leg
We knit according to the description:
- 1st: 6 tbsp. in the amirugumi ring;
- 2 rubles: + 3 approx. We have 9 tbsp;
- 3 rubles and 4p.: 9st.;
- 5 rubles: – 1 decrease. We have 8 tbsp;
- 6r. and 7p.: 8 column. without/n.;
- 8 rubles: for faces. half loops knit 2p. pillar. b/n, knitting 2 stitches in each half-loop. The collar is knitted. We complete the SS knitting and cut the thread.
Now we fasten the thread and crochet the 8th post. b/n on the wrong side half-loop
We perform further crocheting using both half loops:
- from 9 p.m. for 11 rubles: 8 tbsp. b/n;
- from 12 rub. at 16 rub.: + 6 approx. in a row. We have 38 st.
small fungus
hat
We do knitting like this:
- 1st: 6 columns. b/n in the ring;
- 2 rubles: + 6 approx. We get 12 tbsp.;
- from 3 rub. 6 rubles: + 1 approx. in every r. We get 16 tbsp;
- 7r. and 8 rub.: +2 approx. for each R. It turned out to be 20 tbsp;
- 9 rub.: + 4 approx. for each R. It turned out to be 24 tbsp.
Leg
We do knitting like this:
- 1st: 6 columns. b/n in the ring;
- 2 rubles: + 2 approx. We get 8 tbsp;
- from 3 rub. for 6 rubles: 8 StBN;
- 7r. and 8 rub.: + 6 approx. per row. We get 20 StBN;
- 9 rub.: +4 approx. Total 24 StBN.
Fill the mushroom stems with filler. We put a little filler in the hat. By knitting a row of StBN, we connect the parts of the fungus. If desired, you can knit another 1 p. conn. stlb.
We embroider white dots on the hats with our own hands. Their size should be minimal at the top, gradually increasing towards the base of the cap. And the number of points is the opposite: there should be more at the top than at the bottom.
Sew fly agaric mushrooms onto a heating pad. We fix the legs first, then the edges of the caps that come into contact with the heating pad.
Leaves
We knit according to the images of the pattern.
The size of the leaves can be varied by changing the number of VPs in the original chain and, accordingly, the number of Sts in the middle of the leaf.
Flowers
In principle, you can knit flowers with your own hands in any way familiar to you. The proposed option is considered simply as an example. We knit 5 stbn into a ring. We close the 1st and 5th pillars into a connection ring. Art. and knit 2 air. P.
In the same loop of the base we knit 3 DC and again we knit 2 VP. Make 1 SS in the 2nd stitch of the base and get the first petal. Let's crochet 2 VP again, repeat the whole algorithm - we get the 2nd petal.
So we knit three more petals. We turn the thread inside out and fasten it. If you make the initial chain of 6 VPs, then you can knit 6 petals.
You can increase the size of the flower by knitting not 2, but 3 VPs. Accordingly, instead of 3 dc we knit 3 dc with 2 yarn overs.
If desired, the flowers can be shaded with acrylic paint. The technology is as follows: moisten the middle (not the edges!) with water, apply diluted paint. Dry. The center of the flowers can be decorated with beads, seed beads, sequins, etc.
Warmer decorations for the teapot
We embroider blades of grass with a thin thread. You can do this with a chain stitch and crochet stitch.
We sew on hand-knitted flowers and leaves.
Tip: do not place decorative elements near the kettle handle. This will interfere with the use of the kettle. You shouldn’t fasten anything near the buttons of the heating pad either, for the same reason.
Crochet heating pad for a teapot “Sun”: video MK
Hot water bottle "Rose"
A heating pad according to this description can be knitted in two sizes: for a teapot for 4 or 6 mugs.
We will need:
- yarn, 100% cotton, 71g per 109m – a skein of raspberry (No1), plum (No2), blue (No3), light green (No4), white (No5), carrot (No6), red (No7);
- hook No. 1.75 and No. 5;
- filler.
We cast on yarn No. 29; 36 VP and knit according to diagram 1, performing repetitions of the last one. row up to level 10; 13cm. We complete the pattern purlwise. R.
We perform the top of the part according to diagram 2, knitting 6p. Then we move on to diagram 3: raise it by 3p. and at 4 p.m. 10 VP and knit them together with the loops raised from 1p. and 2p.
Next p.: 1 VP, 1 column without / n in the 1st p., x3; 4 times, 1 sc in last. StBN. In total we have 11;14st. Let's turn the work around.
Next r.: 1 VP, 1 sc in the 1st sc, 2 sc with a common top x 5; 7 times, 1 sc in the next. 0; 1 StBN. Cut the thread and fasten it.
We knit the second half of the heating pad. We sew the parts together, leaving 6 gaps for the handle and spout of the teapot; 8.5 cm.
According to diagram 4, we knit a flower and sew it to the heating pad.
Crochet heating pad for a teapot “Cockerel”: video master class
Description
From black threads we collect 60 air stitches. loops and knit 3p. RLS. Next, we divide the knitting in half (30 stitches each) and then knit each of the parts separately, switching to brown yarn. We fulfill 16 rubles. columns without/n.
We connect the parts and knit a stitch without / n, making decreases in each. R. 6 loops each. When the number of loops is 20, we begin to knit a cone.
Next Decrease 1 stitch on 4 rows. in everyone. We switch to yellow yarn. and knit 7p. RLS. Next 2 rubles decrease by 5p.
Cones
Choose the thread color as desired. For one cone, we collect a chain of 3 VPs and close it into a ring. Further:
- 1st row: 7 sc in the middle of the ring;
- 2 rubles: +7 increases;
- 3r.: +5 increases;
- from 4r. 10 rubles each: without additions we knit sc;
- from 11 p.m. 18 rubles: + 2 increases in each rub.
We make three more cones of different colors.
Assembly
We decorate the cones with yarn tassels, fill them with stuffing and sew them to the heating pad.
