Recently, a hobby such as soap making has become very popular.
As practice shows, this is a very useful activity. Having mastered its technology, you can create skin care products that suit you, as well as make unique gifts for loved ones, endowing them with unique scents. Washing with this soap is a pleasure.
Essential oils are volatile, oily, water-insoluble, colorless or slightly colored liquids with characteristic odors and tastes. They are produced only from plants by steam distillation or extraction (squeezing) in the area where they grow, since the highest quality product is obtained from fresh raw materials. Esters are distinguished and named according to the plants that served as raw materials for them.
Each essential oil has beneficial properties specific to the plant from which it is derived. When you inhale the smell of ether or apply it to the skin, a small part of the substance penetrates the blood and spreads throughout the body. Even this small part is enough for its beneficial properties to manifest itself. It is for this reason that esters have become a favorite natural flavoring agent in soap making.
How to find quality essential oil?
They are usually sold in pharmacies. Alternatively, you can buy them in craft stores or specialized soap shops, as well as in online stores. It is there that, as a rule, essential oils suitable for scenting soap are sold.
You can check the quality of the product yourself:
- To do this, you need to drop some oil onto a clean sheet of paper and wait until it dries. If after drying it does not leave marks on the paper, then the product is natural and of high quality, does not contain impurities or artificial inclusions.
- Pay attention to the time it takes for the oil to evaporate. If the weathering period is short, then you are dealing with a synthetic product obtained artificially.
- When purchasing, look at the price. If the entire range presented in the store is in the same price range, then most likely these are synthetic aromatic oils. Natural esters have different prices, depending on the amount of raw materials spent on their production. As you know, with the same amount, different plants produce different amounts of the final product. Some of the most expensive oils are rose, jasmine, and sandalwood.
- Essential oil should be packaged in dark glass bottles equipped with droppers, with a volume of 2 to 15 ml. The packaging must contain the name of the plant in the manufacturer’s languages and in Latin, as well as the name of the manufacturer himself, his address, and contact information.
- Not all plants can produce ether. For example, if you see kiwi, strawberry, or banana oils on sale, this is definitely a synthetic product. By adding it to soap, you will only get a smell, but the soap will not acquire any beneficial properties.
Rules for using essential oils in soap making
- Before using any essential oil, carefully read its properties and the effect it has.
- Strictly observe the dosage: no more than 7 drops per 100 g of soap base; exception - citrus oils (up to 10 drops).
- When mixing oils, their total amount should also not exceed 7 drops per 100 g of soap base.
- Avoid contact of ethers with exposed skin and mucous membranes.
- Do not use oils from plants to which you have an individual intolerance.
- Use oils with caution that increase skin sensitivity to ultraviolet rays.
- When combining, select esters so that their aroma does not interrupt each other.
- When creating fragrances, you can rely on the compatibility table of essential oils.
Description of some essential oils
- Orange oil has a sweet, almost floral scent. It has a tonic effect, elevates mood, causes a feeling of vigor, cleanses the skin and helps get rid of age spots. Perfect for oily and normal skin types. Goes well with oils:
- citrus fruits;
- sage;
- lavender;
- ginger
- Bergamot oil has a subtle fruity aroma with spicy notes. Improves mood and stress resistance. It has a toning and brightening effect on the skin, regulates the activity of the sebaceous glands. Suitable for oily and combination skin types. Combines with citrus oils, as well as herbal oils (cloves, cinnamon, mint).
- Ylang-ylang oil has a sweet, floral aroma. Relieves tension, suppresses depression and insomnia. It is a famous aphrodisiac. Has a liberating effect. Gives the skin elasticity and tenderness. Goes well with esters:
- rosewood;
- cedar;
- patchouli;
- all citrus fruits.
- Cedar oil has a woody-pine aroma. It is famous for its analgesic effect, has antiviral and bactericidal effects. Combines with oils:
- pine trees;
- neroli;
- bergamot.
- Cinnamon oil has a spicy aroma. Helps relieve inflammation and produces a deodorizing effect. May cause skin irritation, so it is not recommended to use it in large quantities. Combined with:
- citrus fruits;
- cumin;
- cloves
- Lavender oil has a bright floral scent. Helps you relax, calm down, and relieves insomnia well. Recommended for oily and combination skin types. Relieves inflammation, helps in the fight against acne. Nourishes the skin with beneficial substances and accelerates its regeneration. Helps prevent hair loss. Not picky in combination with other esters.
- Clove oil has a sharp, spicy aroma that mobilizes internal strength. Helps maintain good health, mood and positive attitude. Combines with oil:
- ylang-ylang;
- lavender;
- bergamot.
- Ginger oil has a sharp, warm, spicy aroma accompanied by herbaceous notes. Increases skin tone, has a cleansing and anti-inflammatory effect, and tightens pores. Combines with oils:
- cedar;
- citrus fruits;
- juniper.
- Peppermint oil has a strong, distinctive aroma. Helps restore strength, relieve nervousness, and has a refreshing effect. Removes signs of fatigue from the skin. Combines with oils:
- lavender;
- basilica;
- rosemary.
- Tea tree oil has a aroma that is both warm and tart. It is considered a universal antibacterial and anti-inflammatory agent. Combines with oils:
- pine trees;
- neroli;
- bergamot.
Fatty nutritious oils of plant origin are called base oils. They can be added to various skin and hair care products, or they can be used as an independent product. All oils can come in solid or liquid form.
Basic oils can also be added to the soap base, then the soap will not only cleanse the skin, but will also care for it, moisturize and nourish it.
Apricot kernel oil.
Ideal for caring for dry and sensitive skin. It has a rejuvenating, tonic, anti-inflammatory effect. Effectively restores the top layer of skin, smoothes out small wrinkles, and helps improve skin tone and elasticity. Apricot kernel oil helps relieve skin inflammation.
Avocado oil.
This oil contains a large amount of vitamin E and A. It is a powerful antioxidant, is perfectly absorbed and is suitable for caring for aging, dehydrated and dry skin.
Avocado oil stimulates blood circulation and metabolic processes in the skin. It contains sterols that fight effectively against age spots. The oil spreads easily over the skin, is perfectly absorbed and penetrates quickly into the deep layers of the skin.
Avocado is also used for hair care. It stimulates the growth of stronger, healthier hair, effectively affecting its structure. Gives curls a beautiful shine and eliminates fragility.
Grapeseed oil.
A very light oil that easily penetrates into the deepest layers of the skin. It is an excellent antioxidant, rejuvenates the skin, and is used to give the breasts greater tone.
Grapeseed oil is suitable for all skin types, increases its elasticity, eliminates wrinkles, and tones.
The skin ultimately becomes soft, smooth and very elastic. Grapeseed oil is also very useful for oily skin, as it does not have an anti-inflammatory effect and tightens pores well. It is also suitable for treating cracks and abrasions on the skin.
Jojoba oil.
Jojoba is classified as a solid oil or liquid wax. It has a very thick consistency and has excellent conditioning properties. Despite the fact that jojoba is a very thick oil, it is perfectly absorbed by the skin and does not leave a greasy sheen like other oils. Jojoba oil added to perfectly moisturizes, nourishes and rejuvenates.
Jojoba oil contains a large amount of vitamin E, so it has excellent antioxidant properties. When applied to the skin, jojoba forms a thin, semi-permeable film on its surface that protects the skin from the harmful effects of sunlight and retains moisture in the skin.
Wheat germ oil.
This oil is called the oil of youth and beauty. With regular use, this oil can work wonders on your skin, which appears younger before your eyes. Wrinkles are smoothed out, and the skin becomes more elastic and silky.
Wheat germ oil is ideal for caring for aging skin and for treating fresh stretch marks on the body.
Sesame oil.
It is a natural moisturizer and is suitable for all skin types. Sesame (sesame) oil smoothes the skin, moisturizes, restores its structure and eliminates irritation and flaking.
This oil contains an active natural substance called sesamol. It actively absorbs ultraviolet rays from the sun and prevents oxidative processes in the skin.
Hazelnut oil.
It contains B vitamins, as well as an antioxidant - vitamin C. In addition, hazelnut oil contains: zinc, calcium, amino acids, magnesium, sodium, iron and many other useful substances. This oil has a high content of vitamin E, a strong antioxidant.
Hazelnut oil is suitable for combination and oily skin. Used to care for the bust, lips, and skin around the eyes. This oil soothes skin after sun exposure.
Cocoa butter.
This oil contains active ingredients that make the skin softer, silkier and more moisturized. Cocoa butter added to also restores the hydrolipid layer of the skin, eliminates various wrinkles and helps eliminate some cosmetic skin defects.
During pregnancy, it is recommended to use cocoa butter to prevent stretch marks.
Coconut oil.
Coconut oil is effectively used to care for the skin of the face and body. Instantly smoothes wrinkles and moisturizes the skin, making it velvety. The oil does not clog pores, distributes perfectly and is completely absorbed.
Corn oil.
This oil has a fairly light texture and is used to care for all skin types. Crude corn oil is used for cosmetic purposes.
Macadamia oil.
Macadamia is not without reason called the queen of all oils. It is ideal for caring for aging skin, has an excellent smoothing, tightening effect, nourishes the skin and is well absorbed.
Sea buckthorn oil.
This oil has anti-inflammatory and anti-aging properties. Ideal for caring for aging and problematic skin.
Olive oil.
It is a classic product for caring for problematic, flaky and dehydrated skin. It is very often used for relaxing and rejuvenating facial and body massages.
Palm oil.
This oil is notable for the fact that it contains vitamin A in very high concentrations, which is why the oil has a bright yellow or even orange color. Palm oil has strong antioxidant properties and is used to prevent aging.
Palm kernel oil.
This oil is made from palm kernels. It also contains vitamins E and A in fairly large quantities.
Passionflower oil.
It is used more to care for aging skin and to increase the elasticity of flabby skin.
Peach oil.
With regular use of this oil, the skin becomes unusually elastic and velvety. Peach oil is used to care for skin, hair and eyelashes.
Sunflower oil.
It contains a large amount of vitamins. It is used to cleanse the neck and face. This is the cheapest oil for.
Safflower oil.
This oil is used to care for all skin types. It relieves inflammation and irritation on the skin and has a good rejuvenating effect. It is better to use unrefined oil for cosmetic purposes.
Borage seed oil.
This oil promotes the rapid restoration of tissue cells, but it is most often used not as an independent remedy, but in mixtures.
Soybean oil.
Ideal for care for all skin types. Increases the elasticity of the skin.
Hazelnut oil.
It contains a large amount of vitamins and microelements. This oil is suitable for the care of all skin types, is perfectly absorbed and is a kind of barrier to protect the skin.
Shea butter (shea butter).
Very often used in various skin and hair care products.
Perfectly nourishes the skin, making it softer and velvety. It has excellent anti-inflammatory properties and protects the skin from harmful ultraviolet radiation.
Evening primrose oil.
This oil is used to treat various skin diseases - eczema, dermatitis, allergic rashes. Recommended for the care of aging and dry skin.
What additives are there for handmade soap, their properties and benefits.
Natural supplements
Carrier oils (vegetable oils)
Fatty oils impart their beneficial properties to soap. Some oils have therapeutic effects, while others add color and texture to the soap. Some oils make soap softer or harder and add foam.
These oils do not have a strong odor and dissolve essential oils well. This makes them an ideal base for preparing aromatic mixtures.
Avocado oil. It is considered "beauty oil". Good for dry and sensitive skin. The oil refreshes the complexion, nourishes, vitaminizes, softens, moisturizes, and rejuvenates the skin.
Adding avocado oil makes a good moisturizing soap.
Jojoba oil. This is a liquid wax, which is similar in composition to the sebum secreted by our skin. The oil is quickly absorbed and restores skin elasticity, moisturizing and soothing it. Suitable for young and sensitive skin. Effective for aging, flabby, wrinkled, dry, oily and problematic facial skin.
Castor oil. Moisturizes the skin by acting as a hygroscopic substance that retains liquid. Based on it, you can create a solid soap with rich foam that softens the skin.
Coconut oil. The oil will make a very hard soap with a soft lather. It is best used in combination with other oils, but you can make soap entirely from coconut oil. This soap will foam even in salt water.
Walnut oil. Moisturizes and softens the skin, but does not lather well.
Cacao butter. Has a rich chocolate aroma. Softens the skin. It gives hardness and strength to a bar of soap.
Wheat germ oil. Rich in vitamin E. Well nourishes the skin and maintains its softness and elasticity. Suitable for dry, mature and aging skin.
Sweet almond oil. Cleanses pores, softens, moisturizes, brightens and soothes the skin. Makes dry, sensitive, aging and chapped skin beautiful and fresh. Almond oil makes a pleasant soap with soft foam.
Shea Butter. Melts at the slightest touch. Absorbs quickly and leaves skin elastic, smooth, soft and moisturized. Has a protective effect, including against ultraviolet radiation. Suitable for any skin type, but especially for aging, damaged, dry and childish skin. Gives soap a silky feel.
Rosehip oil. Rich in vitamins and minerals. Reduces scars and accelerates wound healing. Good for sensitive skin. Add this oil to soap only if you plan to use it immediately, as rosehip oil can quickly go rancid.
Olive oil. Protects the skin from drying out, retains moisture, and prevents the appearance of wrinkles. Well suited for caring for uneven, flaky, inflamed skin. Olive oil makes a pleasant, softening soap.
Palm oil. The oil contains a large amount of fatty acids and beta-carotene. Lathers well. Gives soap a bright yellow color. Palm oil produces a solid soap that dissolves slowly in water.
Sunflower oil. Suitable for dry thin skin. The oil does not lather well, so it must be used in combination with soapier oils. Produces light foam with large bubbles.
Pumpkin oil. Rich in vitamins and minerals. Adds color to soap. Adding a few teaspoons of oil to the soap will create a subdued green color. And 5-10% oil will give the soap a rich honey-brown color.
Sea buckthorn oil. Helps fight age-related changes, stimulates skin restoration, has an antioxidant effect, and accelerates wound healing. Sea buckthorn oil for internal use will give soap not only disinfecting properties, but also a bright orange color.
Grape seed oil. Tightens enlarged pores, softens the skin, maintains the balance of fats and moisture. Refreshes and tones dull, tired skin. Suitable for all skin types, but especially for oily and problematic skin.
Apricot kernel oil. Moisturizes and nourishes the skin. Restores elasticity, fights age-related changes and smoothes out fine wrinkles. Suitable for all skin types, but especially recommended for dry, sensitive and aging skin.
Natural fillers
These are spices, herbs, honey, dry herbs and much more. Due to their beneficial properties, they improve skin condition. In addition, natural additives change the color of the soap and give it aroma.
- Turmeric, calendula, and sea buckthorn oil will make soap orange.
- Red sandalwood powder and ground red pepper will give the soap its red color.
- Brown color - coffee, chocolate, cinnamon.
- Gray color - activated carbon, poppy.
- Green color - dry ground herbs and eucalyptus leaf extract (chlorophyllipt).
Crushed dry herbs change the texture of the soap and create a marbling effect. Whole flowers or petals are used to decorate a bar of soap.
Borage. It is a clear, odorless liquid that is squeezed from the seeds of cucumber flowers. Very well moisturizes and softens the skin. Particularly good for sensitive skin.
Cucumber extract. Cools and soothes.
Beeswax. Gives soap a subtle honey smell and hardness.
Milk. Goat milk and powdered milk soften and soothe the skin. When making soap from scratch, if you are using fresh milk, you can mix it with a lye solution. But the milk must be very cold before adding caustic soda. Powdered milk (10 ml) is simply added at the initial stage.
Contains glucose, fructose, minerals, trace elements, vitamins, enzymes. Retains fluid and makes skin soft and elastic. Honey gives the soap a light golden hue and aroma.
Chocolate. Choose chocolate with a high cocoa butter content (80%). Chocolate gives soap a rich, dark color and a wonderful aroma that will give you a boost of energy. The caffeine contained in chocolate will make your skin smooth and soft. Chocolate is added to the soap base, pre-melted in a water bath or grated on a fine grater. You can use cocoa powder instead of chocolate.
Coffee. Caffeine tones the skin and stimulates the destruction of fat deposits. Use only finely ground coffee, as large particles will scratch your skin. By adding ground coffee granules, you get a scrub soap that massages the skin, cleanses pores and exfoliates. You can use dry or dry ground coffee. You can decorate soap with coffee beans.
Cinnamon. May irritate sensitive skin. Ground cinnamon gives the soap its brown color and characteristic aroma.
Poppy. Poppy seeds are an excellent scrub.
Orange, lemon zest. The zest must first be grated on a fine grater and dried well. It will give the soap a citrus color and aroma and act as a scrub. Add the zest right before pouring the soap into the mold, as too much citrus peel can prevent the soap from forming lather.
Cereals. Ground oatmeal serves as a gentle scrub. This soap moisturizes the skin and stimulates cell renewal. And whole flakes can decorate the surface of the soap.
Coconut flakes. The shavings will not impart a coconut aroma to the soap. In soap it is used as a coarse scrub.
It has antiseptic, cleansing, anti-inflammatory, stimulating, wound-healing properties. Choose a fine-grained clay that will disperse evenly into the soap base.
Plants
To prevent your soap from molding, use only very well-dried plants.
Hop. Will help get rid of insomnia. A few hop cones can be melted into soap.
Luffa. Used to make washcloths. If you fill a piece of it with soap base, you will get soap with a washcloth inside. This soap will massage the skin well and exfoliate like a scrub.
Lavender buds. Gives soap a scent that lasts for a long time. It is better to add crushed flowers to the soap and decorate the surface with buds.
Calendula petals. They have healing, anti-inflammatory, tonic properties, which improve the color and condition of the skin. Gives the soap a golden-orange color.
Chamomile flowers. Chamomile has a strong smell, especially when crushed. Chamomile infusion has an antiseptic, anti-inflammatory, softening effect.
Parsley. You can use parsley decoction or add chopped leaves. Parsley gives the soap a light apple green hue. To preserve it for a long time, store the soap in a dark place.
Dying safflower. The orange-red petals retain their color well in soap.
Thyme. Small green leaves can be used to decorate your soap.
Fucus vesicularis. Should be crushed before use. The algae quickly softens upon contact with water.
Juniper berries. They add rich, deep color and interesting structure to the soap.
Nettle leaves. Gives soap a pleasant green tint.
Myrrh. Will turn the soap pinkish brown.
Spirulina seaweed. Its smell can be masked with essential oils. The algae will color the soap a rich green color that will change to an earthy green over time.
Soapwort officinalis. The leaves, stems and roots of this plant contain a lot of natural soap base when boiled. Dried leaves and roots are also suitable for use.
Paprika. Makes warm red soap. It should be added to the balls in small quantities, as it may leave a red border on the bath.
Wheat sprouts. A soft scrub that soothes and softens the skin.
Walnut leaves. When ground into powder, they will give the soap a greenish-brown color. To get a mottled effect, use chopped leaves.
Turmeric-turmeric. Gives the soap a warm peachy tint.
Incense. Resin and ground frankincense powder are an excellent addition to soap.
Ceylon cinnamon. To give your soap a warm brown color, use powder. To decorate the soap, use a piece of dried pod.
Cayenne pepper. One spoon of pepper will turn the soap a soft pink color, and more will give it a rich hue.
Indigofera tinctifera. To color the soap blue, you only need a few grains.
Clove tree buds. They are good for decorating the surface of soap. But cloves can irritate the skin.
Geranium is fragrant. Finely chopped and powdered leaves will give the soap a subdued green color, which will then fade to a yellowish-green color.
Buds of roses and rose hips. Soap is decorated beautifully. Rubbed rosehip gives the soap a discreet pinkish color that darkens to pinkish brown.
Basil. Dried and crushed leaves will make soap with a mottled green-brown color.
Alkane dyeing. Good pH indicator. Colors soap in colors from red to pink and from purple to blue. The more fatty acids in a bar of soap or citric acid in the balls, the redder the color.
When making soap from scratch, 2-3% essential oils are usually added by weight of the main oils. Some citrus essential oils may require more and less peppermint essential oil.
When making soap from soap base and baby soap, 1 piece of soap weighing 100 grams should contain no more than 7 drops of essential oil or a mixture of different essential oils. When using strong-smelling oils, the number of drops is reduced to 3.
You need to be careful with essential oils. It is better to add less oil than to exceed its dosage. Don't use essential oils that you don't like the smell of. Read the instructions for the oil. Perhaps you have a disease for which the use of oil is contraindicated. Essential oils should not be used during pregnancy or if you have cardiovascular diseases.
Citrus oils (orange, lemon, bergamot, tangerine) increase skin sensitivity to sunlight.
To buy quality essential oil, and not its fake, you should know several signs of fake essential oil:
- suspicious place of sale
- low price
- same price for easy to obtain (orange, mint) and rare essential oils (rose, sandalwood)
- presence in the assortment of non-existent essential oils: cherry, strawberry, banana, peach, apple, etc.
- the bottle is NOT made of dark glass
- pungent, aggressive odor
- lack of information on the label about the method of obtaining the oil and the Latin name of the plant
The aroma of citrus essential oils does not last long. Therefore, it is better to combine them with essential oils of citronella, lemongrass, or add grated dried lemon or orange peel to soap.
Essential oils combine well with their own kind. For example, spicy oils, oils from plants of the same family, oils obtained from woody plants, and so on complement each other well.
Tea tree oil. It has a tart, warm, camphor aroma. Powerful antiseptic. It has antibacterial, antiviral, antifungal properties. Well suited for teenage and oily skin. If you don't have oily skin, mix tea tree oil with moisturizing oils, as it can dry out your skin on its own.
Combines with lavender, lemon, rosemary, eucalyptus, sage, and pine oils.
Eucalyptus oil. It has a woody, bitter-cool aroma. It has a regenerating and whitening effect, antiseptic properties, and normalizes the functioning of the sebaceous glands. Suitable for oily skin.
Combines with cedar, cypress, tea tree, rosemary, lavender, peppermint, lemongrass, and lemon oils.
Bitter orange oil. The smell is dry, almost floral.
Sweet orange oil. Sweet, fruity aroma. Lightens pigment spots, cleanses the skin and makes it elastic. Lifts your mood and relieves stress.
Combines with oils of all citrus fruits, lavender, ginger, ylang-ylang, clary sage.
Basil oil. The smell is spicy, sweet-herbal with fresh balsamic notes. Tones and strengthens the nervous system. Fading skin softens and rejuvenates.
Combines with oils of ginger, bergamot, sage, peppermint, lemongrass, lavender.
Bergamot oil. The smell is fresh and fruity. Use oil without furocoumarins.
Valerian oil. The smell is soft woody. Relaxes.
Vanilla oil. The smell is juicy sweet.
Vetiver oil. The aroma is deep woody. Has strong emollient properties. It is a good fixative in soap.
Gardenia oil. The aroma is oily, rich floral.
Clove oil. Rich honey aroma with a hint of spicy cloves.
Clove oil. Sharp, spicy aroma. Improves memory and well-being.
Combines with oils of bergamot, sage, ylang-ylang, lavender.
Fragrant geranium oil. Has a discreet rose scent.
Combines with floral, citrus and spicy oils.
Grapefruit oil. The smell is sharp, fresh citrus.
Jasmine oil. The smell is rich, sweet, floral.
Fragrant honeysuckle oil. The smell is sweet with a fresh floral spicy note. Use in combination with honeysuckle flower water.
Ylang-ylang oil. The smell is sweetish-floral, reminiscent of jasmine. Relieves tension, effective for depression and insomnia. Makes skin of any type soft, velvety and elastic.
Combines with oils of all citrus fruits, sage, cedar, patchouli, rosewood.
Ginger oil. Woody spicy scent. Helps with muscle pain, strengthens memory, helps overcome apathy. Cleanses, tightens pores and eliminates inflammatory reactions in oily skin.
Combines with cedar, citrus, rosewood, juniper, palmarosa, and patchouli oils.
Cinnamon leaf oil. The aroma is warm, spicy, a little sharp. Large quantities may irritate the skin, so add small amounts.
Lavender oil. The smell is sweet floral. Helps with depression, insomnia, nervousness, stress. Softens the skin, heals wounds. Suitable for any skin type.
Combines with citrus, tea tree, lemongrass, eucalyptus, clove, rosemary, cypress, peppermint, cedar, sage, patchouli oils.
Frankincense oil. The smell is sweet, rich.
Lime oil. The aroma is sharp fruity citrus. The soap smells sharper and loses odor more slowly than other citrus oils.
Lemongrass oil. Fresh herbal lemon aroma. May cause skin irritation.
Lemongrass oil. The smell is herbaceous and citrusy. Tones and stimulates the entire body. Suitable for combination and oily skin. Tones the skin, opens pores, relieves inflammation of the sebaceous glands.
Lemon oil. The aroma is cold, bitter-citrus. Invigorates, increases attention. Whitens pigment spots and freckles, eliminates spider veins.
Combines with citrus oils, eucalyptus, ylang-ylang, ginger, peppermint, juniper, lavender.
Oil lyceum cubeb. Fresh fruity lemon aroma.
Sweet marjoram oil. The smell is warm woody. Do not use this oil during pregnancy.
Tangerine oil. The smell is sweet, almost floral, the most delicate of all citrus fruits. Improves mood, helps cope with depression, stress and insomnia. Improves complexion and smoothes out fine wrinkles.
Combines with citrus, lavender, sage, juniper oils.
Mimosa oil. The smell is deep woody-floral, slightly herbaceous. It is a good fixative for other oils.
Bitter almond oil. The smell of matzipan.
Myrrh oil. The smell is juicy, slightly spicy.
Myrtle oil. The smell is clean, fresh, sweet.
Juniper oil. The aroma is clean, fresh, slightly woody.
Oak moss oil. Mixes well with most other oils. Excellent fixative.
Nutmeg oil. The smell is warm balsamic. A good fixative in soap.
Peppermint oil. The smell is warm, fresh, minty. Restores strength, eliminates nervous excitement. Refreshes the skin, eliminating fatigue.
Combines with citrus, lavender, eucalyptus, pine, basil, rosemary, and lemongrass oils.
Neroli oil. The smell is fresh and sweet.
Palmarosa oil. Sweet floral aroma. Accelerates cell restoration and moisturizes the skin.
Combines with rose, geranium and other floral oils.
Patchouli oil. The smell is persistent, rich, bitter-tart. Tones, calms, has a beneficial effect on the nervous system. Suitable for dry skin. The oil refreshes, renews, smoothes and nourishes it.
Combines with rosewood, ylang-ylang, cedar, clove, orange, bergamot, and sage oils.
Black pepper oil. The smell is dry, woody and spicy. In large doses, it irritates the skin.
Petitgrain oil. The smell is woody, herbal, citrus.
Rose oil. The smell is deep, sweet.
Rosemary oil. The smell is fresh, minty, herbal. Stimulates mental and physical activity. Tightens pores and improves the condition of oily skin.
Combines with tea tree, lavender, pine, sage, petitgrain, orange, peppermint, lemongrass oils.
Chamomile oil. The smell is fruity-sweet herbaceous. Good emollient oil.
Sandalwood oil. The smell is soft woody.
Pine oil. The smell is strong, dry, reminiscent of disinfectants.
Styrax tree oil. The smell is rich, sweet balsamic. Works well as a fixative for other oils. Use it in small quantities.
Lemon thyme oil. The smell is fresh herbal with a hint of lemon.
Tuberose oil. The smell is persistent, heavy, sweet.
Violet oil. The aroma is subtle floral.
Hop oil. The aroma is rich spicy-sweet.
Combines with citrus and spicy essential oils.
Cumina oil. The smell is sweet, rich honey.
Clary sage oil. The aroma is sweet, nutty, herbal. The oil soothes inflamed skin.
Artificial additives
With the help of artificial additives, you can dye soap any color, give it any aroma, and shine.
Remember that artificial additives can cause allergies. Follow the dosage and use supplements that are safe for the skin.
Dyes
Dry food coloring. They are very concentrated. Do not pour this dye directly into the soap base. It must first be dissolved in water and only then added to the base using a pipette. At the same time, keep an eye on the color concentration. If you add too much dye to your soap, the lather will be colored and stain your skin. Leftover food coloring solution should not be stored as it may deteriorate and become moldy.
These are already diluted cosmetic dyes. They are easy and convenient to work with. To give the soap base the desired color, 1-3 drops are enough. Liquid dyes can be mixed together to obtain the desired shade. But if you make multi-colored soap, then the boundaries of differently colored layers or elements will gradually blur. This will be especially noticeable in white areas. To avoid this, use pigments rather than liquid dyes.
Pigments
These are insoluble colored powders. They add color to a transparent base and reduce its transparency. To prevent the pigments from settling in clumps at the bottom of the mold, first mix them well with any liquid oil.
Mother of pearls (miki)
These are very small glitters with almost no visible particles. They color the soap and give it shine and shine. In a white soap base their shine is less noticeable. Therefore, it is better to add mother-of-pearl to a transparent soap base and mix thoroughly.
Sequins (glitters)
They make soap more beautiful and effective. Do not add too large glitter to the soap, as it can scratch the skin.
Flavors
Cosmetic fragrances have a strong odor that lingers well in soap. Food flavorings are less stable, but their aroma is more natural. It is recommended to add 4 drops of fragrance per 100 grams of soap base to soap.
When you start making soap and handmade cosmetics, you are faced with many questions about base oil: what types are there? What is the difference between refined and unrefined and which is better? What is cold pressed oil? What is special about solid oils? Which oils are suitable for which skin type? How much oil can you add to soap? and other questions. If possible, I will try to answer them in this article.
What is base oil
Base oils (carrier oils, transport oils) are fatty nutritious oils of plant origin. This is a completely independent product with its own characteristics, properties and purpose. They can be used as a basis for essential compositions, as a “cream” for the face and body, as medicines, as additives to soap and natural cosmetics (creams, shampoos, shower gels and scrubs, bath foam, etc.), as a means for makeup remover, for massage, to strengthen nails, and of course, as an indispensable thing in cooking.
Base oils have a valuable composition: very important polyunsaturated fatty acids, triglycerides, waxes, phosphatides, lipochromes, tocopherols and the entire spectrum of vitamins. In everyday life, they are simply irreplaceable due to their composition, not to mention the benefits for beauty and health.
BM stimulate cellular metabolism, tissue regeneration, due to which they have a strong antioxidant effect, promote the synthesis of fibrogen and collagen, improve and strengthen skin cell membranes, improve skin nutrition, increase the ability of skin cells to retain moisture, improve lymph and blood circulation, increase skin tone, normalize the secretion of the sebaceous glands, remove dust, dirt and cosmetics from the surface of the skin, and can also dissolve deposited secretions of the sweat glands.
Composition of base oils
The composition of base oil is a fairly complex mixture of saturated and unsaturated fatty acids. The predominance of saturated fatty acids makes the oil solid; the more unsaturated fatty acids, the more liquid it is in consistency.
For those who actively use oils, it is important to know that the more oleic acid the oil contains (refers to monounsaturated fatty acids), the better the oil will be absorbed into the skin, and the better its transport properties will be (enhances the penetration of other active components into the skin) . However, there is a small peculiarity: if the oil is absorbed very quickly, it can close the pores, which provokes the appearance of acne. If the oil is absorbed for a long time, then a greasy film will remain on the skin. Often this feature is corrected using mixtures of oils.
Oils contain essential unsaturated acids (not produced by the body) - linoleic, linolenic, gamma-linolenic and their derivatives.
People with dry and sensitive skin should pay attention to the content of omega-6 acids in the oil (these are linoleic and gamma-linolenic acid), and people with skin diseases are recommended to use oils with a high content of linolenic acid and its derivatives (omega-3 acids), which has strong anti-inflammatory properties.
With a deficiency of essential acids, skin peeling, itching, a feeling of dryness, and redness appear. A source of essential fatty acids can be vegetable oils rich in these components, which are especially rich in gamma-linolenic acid, especially borage oil, black currant oil, and evening primrose oil.
In the production process of cosmetics, saponified and unsaponifiable fractions of vegetable oil are used. Saponifatiable is a compound of glycerin and fatty acids; if you add alkali to it, we get soap. This fraction is responsible for the appearance and properties of the oil.
The unsaponifiable fraction is a combination of biologically active substances - vitamin E, phytosterols, carotenoids and others. It is responsible for regenerating and antioxidant properties, which is especially useful for aging skin. When combined with alkali, it does not form soap.
Refined, unrefined oils, cold pressed
All oils are divided into refined and unrefined, the difference being in the degree of purification. The degree of usefulness of the oil is determined by the fatty acid composition, which does not change during the refining process.
Oil is refined in order to make it tasteless; this is necessary primarily in cooking; it also does not smoke and does not form foam when frying foods. There are two methods of refining - physical (using adsorbents) and chemical (using a special alkali used for food). The second method is mainly used, since it is cheaper, simpler, and better proven. Refined oils in special stores for soap making often do not have the pungent odor and specific color that are inherent in unrefined oils, due to which the color of the dye and the smell of the fragrance do not change. They also have a more delicate texture.
Unrefined oils undergo only one level of purification, the so-called cold pressing; often on bottles with such oils they write “exstra virgin”. They are richer in vitamins, nutrients, and microelements. Therefore, unrefined ones are more often used for cosmetic purposes. The disadvantage of such oils is their short shelf life; everything natural spoils faster. It should be stored in the refrigerator in a glass, dark bottle and not used after the expiration date.
Unrefined oils should not be used in the following cases: for the delicate skin of a child, for pregnant and lactating women, for sensitive, delicate, thin skin, allergic reactions and other undesirable consequences are possible.
Water soluble oils (hydrogenated) or BPM
These are base oils converted into a water-soluble form. They are completely soluble in water and ethyl alcohol. Therefore, they are excellent for creating cosmetics, especially for shampoos, as they are easily washed off, and for creams, since they do not weigh down the structure. The conversion process takes place in a vacuum, resulting in a clean, transparent, slightly colored liquid with a low odor and low acidity.
Advantages:
- retain all the beneficial properties of the oil;
- increase the transparency of the soap base;
- do not affect foaming properties;
- do not separate in the finished product;
- can be used as an emulsifier;
- reduce irritation from surfactants;
- additionally cleanse the skin.
Solid base oils
With liquid oils, everything is more or less clear. Solids differ from liquids, respectively, in a consistency similar to butter, so they are often called “butter” (from English butter), thanks to this unique feature they are used to make very interesting cosmetics.
What interesting things can be made from solid oils and how they can be used:
- they can be used as an independent product for the face and body;
- as an additive to soap and cosmetics;
- for creating hydrophilic tiles (for washing, removing makeup, oils form their basis);
- massage tiles (solid oils melt easily when in contact with warm skin);
- soft body cream;
- lip balms;
- praline for bath;
- body scrubs and more.
The peculiarity of solid base oils is that they have a very high content of oleic acid, the main effect of which is to moisturize the skin and increase elasticity, and stearic acid, thanks to which the batters can regulate the consistency of the cream; therefore, they are often used as a thickener and structure former in recipe
Some solid oils contain a large part of the unsaponifiable fraction, due to which they have a rejuvenating effect, soothe sensitive, irritated skin, and restore damaged skin.
There are two types of batters:
1. Natural batters. Made by pressing and processing. They can also be called tropical or exotic, as they are obtained from plants in Africa, Brazil, and India. These are Shea butter (karite), mango, cupuaçu, cocoa and others.
2. Vegetable batters. Not found in nature in a solid state, they are obtained by mixing liquid oil with water-soluble vegetable oils. For example, avocado oil, coffee butter, pistachio, almond. orange butters.
Light and heavy base oils. Mixing oils
1. Lungs. They have a delicate texture, are quickly absorbed, and are easily distributed on the skin. These include: grape seed, macadamia, apricot, peach, hazelnut, almond, black currant, evening primrose, borage and others.
2. Heavy. Thicker, with a high content of natural antioxidants, they serve as natural preservatives for oil mixtures. It is recommended to add them to light oils. Heavy ones include: cocoa butter, avocado, jojoba, sesame, wheat germ, walnut, cotton, flaxseed and others.
When creating mixtures of oils, you don’t have to be afraid, since the base oils do not “quarrel” with each other, they can be mixed in any combination, in quantities of about 4-5 different items, selecting properties and features.
Most base oils can be safely applied to the body in their pure form; problems can only arise due to individual intolerance. It should be borne in mind that some oils, for example, cupuaçu, amaranth, tamanu, pequi, contain high concentrations of active substances, so you should follow the recommended proportions when adding them to cosmetics.
Some oils can be comedogenic (prone to clog pores): flaxseed, cocoa, peach, almond, castor, coconut, corn, grape seed, mink, peanut, safflower, sunflower, soybean, shea, cottonseed and others. They are best used in oil mixtures.
Non-comedogenic oils: jojoba, wheat germ, apricot kernel, kukui, hazelnut, grape seed, sesame, rice, poppy and others.
Due to the fact that base oils have such different properties and characteristics, you need to carefully select them depending on your skin type, season, weather, taking into account individual characteristics and problem areas. This is all quite simple and interesting, a kind of creativity, especially when you have information about this or that oil, we will talk about this in the following articles.
A variety of oils can be used. In fact, any fats are a big field for experimentation. Vegetable sunflower oil, flaxseed, olive (soft foam and soap), sesame, pumpkin, almond, burdock, cedar, safflower, castor (increases foam formation), walnut oil... And also butter - gives the soap a special creamy smell and nice texture.
In specialized stores for soap makers they usually sell refined (and therefore chemically treated) oils, because unrefined oils are stored for only 1-3 months. If you want truly natural soap, look for unrefined oils.
Coconut toilet soap can be perfectly perfumed using numerous natural and artificial fragrances. You can also significantly improve the quality of this soap by adding lanolin or paraffin to it. Even toilet soaps with the addition of Japanese wax are very popular, as they look exactly like planed toilet soap. Coconut toilet soap should not be left in the mold for too long, otherwise it becomes too hard and very difficult to press.
Soap with castor oil and sunflower oil takes a very long time to mature. Better start from the simplest soap - olive 95% + 5% castor oil or coconut.
Olive oil
Olive oil-only soaps are notorious for taking longer to thicken. But this process is well facilitated by a blender or mixer.
Olive soap- the most gentle of all, so soap for children is made from olive oil without additional additives (if only a little chamomile or lavender essential oil). The foam of such soap is finely porous and stable.
To speed up the saponification process, you can add some beeswax or coconut oil. Always use a little less water for olive soap.
Properties of some oils
1. Grapeseed, camelina, corn oil - these oils soften the soap, if you overdo it, you will end up with plasticine in your hands.
2. Coconut, palm oil - the more you put, the harder the soap you will get. The foam will also be coarse-celled, not creamy.
3. Olive oil – turns out solid. The longer the soap sits, the harder it becomes. It lathers with fine-cell foam; the soap contains a lot of glycerin. Do not leave it on a wet soap dish - there will be sticky liquid on the soap.
4. Castor oil - even if you add a little - will foam well.
5. fats that promote foam formation: coconut fat and palm kernel fat. Their optimal volume in soap: 10% - 25%. In addition to them, palm and olive oil act as a foaming agent, albeit in a slightly weakened form. The latter creates an extremely finely porous foam, which becomes better the longer the soap matures.
Rapeseed and sunflower oils are especially good at moisturizing and caring for the skin.
Glycerol is a natural alcohol. It has been used in the cosmetics industry for several centuries. Unlike its counterparts, glycerin does not dry out, but rather moisturizes the skin. In addition, glycerin perfectly protects the skin from adverse environmental influences. It is a thick, colorless liquid. Despite the fact that it is a liquid, glycerin is sold by weight. The boiling point is + 290C.
Coconut oil- a substance of plant origin, extracted by pressing coconut flakes. Coconut oil is used for the soap and confectionery industry. It has anti-inflammatory, moisturizing, nourishing and protective properties. Coconut oil is suitable for making massage bars, soaps, lip glosses and hair masks. The melting point of coconut oil is 22-27 degrees. At room temperature it looks like white soft margarine. Upon contact with skin, coconut oil instantly melts.
Castor oil- a substance of plant origin. It is obtained from the castor bean plant, which is native to East Africa. Castor oil for medicinal and cosmetic use is obtained by cold pressing. Castor oil perfectly softens and whitens the skin, eliminates age spots. Ideal for aging and sensitive skin. Castor oil is great for fighting expression lines and restoring elasticity to the skin. It is a yellow viscous oily liquid.
Cocoa butter- golden color and pleasant taste and smell (if not deodorized). It is obtained at the stage of technological processing of cocoa beans. It is the taste and consistency of cocoa butter that you feel when the chocolate melts in your mouth.
Cocoa powder
Used for making chocolate. It is also used for handmade soaps, cosmetic masks and anti-cellulite wraps.
Cosmetic cocoa powder does not contain additional impurities. Consists of ground cocoa beans.
It is also used as a natural flavoring and coloring agent.
Safflower oil The oil obtained from peeled seeds is not inferior to sunflower oil in the most important indicators and is used for food. The oil from the unrefined seeds has a bitter taste. This oil is used for the preparation of light, non-yellowing drying oils, in soap making and in the production of linoleum. Since safflower oil is odorless and has the ability to be easily absorbed into the skin, it is included in various creams and ointments. An excellent source of magnesium, vitamins B2, PP. The composition of fatty acids is similar to sunflower: it contains carotenoids, vitamin E (mainly β-tocopherol) and is dominated by polyunsaturated linoleic acid, which belongs to the Omega-6 class. Currently, safflower varieties have been developed that contain a lot of monounsaturated oleic acid (Omega-9 class), but there is a possibility that this is a GM product. In ancient times, safflower was grown not for the extraction of oil, but for its bright flowers, which served as a raw material for the production of red and yellow dyes for fabrics. Today it is also used for food.
Palm oil
It is made from the fruits of palm trees of the species Aviora elais or Elais guienensis. These plant species are found in western Africa and America. Among other vegetable oils, palm oil ranks first in terms of sales. Therefore, let's look at it in detail, after all, this is one of the very first oils in soap making.
Palm oil is traditionally used in the food industry, as well as for the manufacture of numerous cosmetic products. However, palm oil itself can also be used as a cosmetic product. Palm oil has a great effect on hair condition. Hair becomes stronger, more vibrant, silky and pleasant. Treatment of hair with palm oil protects hair from exposure to adverse environmental factors. So When making soap with palm oil, it is then good to use for washing your hair.
Palm oil is very rich in vitamin E, which is a natural antioxidant. It has unique oxidizing properties, thanks to which food prepared with its use does not spoil longer (apparently, this also applies to soap!).
Written sources mentioning palm oil date back to the 15th century. Palm oil was brought to Europe by Portuguese sailors. In some African countries, local people still make palm oil using the same methods they did many centuries ago and use it for food.
It has a chemical composition well-verified by nature: 50% saturated fatty acids, with 40% monounsaturated and 10% polyunsaturated fatty acids. In addition to all other beneficial properties, it is very resistant to oxidation. The moisture level is minimal, not made from GMOs, no cholesterol!
Japanese scientists have discovered that if a person prefers palm oil to any other type of fat, then his risk of developing vascular diseases is reduced.
At room temperature it becomes hard like margarine. WITH sweet in taste. Its chemical composition is similar to butter. The main component of palm oil is palmitic acid.
Various fractions of palm oil are produced, which differ in melting point.
To distinguish between different types of palm oil use digital encodings.
Codes 48-52 include palm stearin. This type of palm oil is widely used in industrial cooking. Palm stearin is one of the ingredients of margarine; in addition, it is used for heat treatment of instant noodles.
Codes 36-39 indicate standard palm oil. This is precisely the fraction of palm oil that becomes solid at room temperature. This palm oil is excellent for preparing various baked goods; if you add it to shortbread dough, the baked goods will be especially crumbly and tasty. This palm oil is also convenient for frying vegetables, chicken, and beef. When frying, palm oil does not smoke or burn. However, food made with palm oil should be consumed immediately after cooking, because as soon as the dish cools, it will immediately become covered with a layer of congealed palm oil.
Palm olein is hidden under the 16-24 coding. At a temperature of about twenty degrees, such palm oil has the consistency of cream. And in the refrigerator it becomes hard. It is used for frying various products, from dough products to meat.
When producing oil, the fruits are collected from the trees, placed in heaps, and the fruits ferment for thirty days. The finished fermented fruits are subjected to heat treatment. Most often this is boiling in large vats. Boiled fruits are crushed in large containers in order to obtain kernels, which are exported to produce palm kernel oil. The boiled pulp of the fruit is again boiled in vats, filled with water. As a result, the oil rises to the top, where it is collected.