Yulia Yanina in her Moscow atelier.

From the very beginning, we occupied the right niche - we began to engage in haute couture and work on individual orders, ”says Yulia Yanina. She is sitting on a velvet sofa in the Savvinskoye Metochion mansion near the Kremlin. Here, in the house with kokoshniks, moved during the Stalinist reconstruction from Tverskaya Street to the courtyard, she has an atelier: baroque mirrors, curtains, carved wooden chairs and paintings with hunters and game.

January 25 at the Paris residence of the Russian ambassador Yanin will show his third haute couture collection. It will be strewn with glass beads and sequins evening and cocktail dresses in pastel shades - beige, pink, gray. Feminine styles: asymmetrical one-shoulder, bustier and all kinds of draperies. “There are a lot of embroideries a la russe, but not peasant, but refined, sophisticated,” says the designer. - And the name is "The New Russian Aristocrat".

Dresses in the Byzantine style and in general everything that can be described as "Russian style" is Yanina's calling card, and for many years this played a cruel joke on her: "Russian" in many minds was associated either with Soviet or with "new Russian", especially since they ordered dresses from Yanina, mainly the wives of high-ranking officials and businessmen. But last year everything changed: the Moscow it girls Olya Thompson and Natalya Vodyanova immediately drew attention to the designer. The supermodel included Yanina's outfit in the lots at her July Love Ball auction in Versailles - along with dresses from Chanel, Dior and Givenchy, and at social events she began to praise her work to everyone, saying: here it is, Russian fashion, which everyone laments, and so on. cannot be found, here he is, an unknown prophet in his own country.

Olya Thompson, a Russian American fabric designer and collector of antiques and Haute Couture, recalls that when she came to live in Moscow last year, she accidentally heard about Yulia's studio and went there - more out of curiosity than out of a desire to buy something. And she was shocked to see these dresses - "noble, feminine, with complex exquisite embroideries, like on the things of Russian emigrants." Thompson told Vodianova about her discovery and advised her to put the feather-embroidered white Swan Princess dress up for auction. “Before, no one in the West knew about Yulia, because she conducted her affairs in a chamber,” says Olya. “But her dresses have always been elegant, and that never goes out of style.”

The authoritative Parisian buyer and Maria Luisa boutique owner Maria Luisa Pumayu agrees with Thompson. Having seen the collection at a previous show at the Russian embassy, ​​she said: “Simple and luxurious. Made for Paris. The Yanina collections were immediately purchased by the Printemps department store. Inspired by the Parisian success, Julia showed things to the New York Bergdorf Goodman and London Harrods. As a result, this spring Yanina's clothes will be sold there as well.

Yanina fashion show autumn-winter 2011/2012

The designer has his own explanation for turning to the West: when the minimalism of the nineties and the sexuality of the zeros died down, Europe and America decided that one should look respectable. Julia is modestly silent about the fact that she herself took a prudent step towards. Two years ago, her outfits were overloaded with details - they combined velvet, patent leather, fur, fringe, bows, belts, hoods. But in the latest collections, things have become much more concise - sheath dresses, fitted jackets, pencil skirts, floor-length evening dresses, unobtrusively decorated with embroidery, accompanied by gloves and fur hats.

Olya Thompson at the Tatler Debutante Ball, 2011; Nadezhda Mikhalkova at the Cannes Film Festival, 2010.

Yanina started her business at the dawn of perestroika in Saratov: having opened a small enterprise "Julia", she sewed the wives of local officials and co-operators and managed to travel to Moscow - to lectures at the Textile Institute. When the former country and life collapsed, she realized that she needed to move to the capital and, in her words, "develop further." Having shown the first collection in 1993 (at the same time she renamed the enterprise into the Yanina Fashion House), she immediately acquired clients. I met many while studying at Tekstilny, and they advised their friends - word of mouth worked.
Her principles are unchanged: the first fitting with the obligatory participation of Yulia, an individual approach, makeup and hair consultations. Only handmade.
In 2007, she was invited to Rome Fashion Week. “My client was the wife of the Russian ambassador to Italy - that’s how they learned about me in the Apennines. When Valentino retired, his fans didn't know where to go. And as a result, they came to me.”
Julia manages her business together with her husband. They have two daughters. “It is unlikely that I would have succeeded in life if I had not been surrounded by loved ones. In general, I am a sentimental and superstitious person: I believe in omens and signs, maps, horoscopes. So was Christian Dior. Yanina also likes to quote Coco Chanel. “I recently read a phrase in her diaries, with which I now turn to my team every day - designers, seamstresses, embroiderers: “What we do is not art, but craft. Popularity is fleeting, but reputation is forever. This is her main secret.

Fashion house Yanina Couture founded in 1993. In a little more than 20 years, dresses by designer Yulia Yanina managed to visit the Cannes festivals and charity balls. Gwen Stephanie(47) and Eva Longoria(41) have already managed to evaluate the work of the Russian brand, and Yanina Couture and does not intend to stop there. The founder of the brand told us about how you can ruin even the best look and why you couldn’t wear Kate Blanchett(47) for Australian film festival.

When did you realize that you wanted to become a designer?
I once dreamed of becoming a ballerina: I probably really liked ballet outfits and everything related to this wonderful art form, but I didn’t have the data to become a ballerina, so I did rhythmic gymnastics. My dad traveled a lot and brought me dolls from business trips, which were in short supply at that time. And I sewed clothes for them: it was impossible to buy doll dresses just like that, over time, a desire simply appeared to dress not only dolls, but real people.

Tell the story of your brand?
Our family has been managing the fashion house for twenty years now, which during this time has grown from a small atelier in Saratov into a successful company. At some point, I felt that we were ready for change and that the time had come to move on and set new standards, and in a small city there was no room to achieve the goals we wanted to move towards and we nevertheless took this step. Of course, it was not easy, in Moscow you grow up very quickly, you lose some illusions, as if you are breaking away from your roots, but family support and faith in what we are doing played a very important role. We managed to pick up a team of the best designers and craftswomen, found a room and worked hard and corny a lot to make all our dreams and ideas come true.

What do you need to buy?
For the collection, of course, you need to purchase basic items that will last more than one season. In our Fashion House there are always special things that we call "icons" and which from season to season become the main hits and favorites among our customers. These are evening and cocktail dresses and elegant coats of their “expensive” materials, such as velvet and taffeta, and, of course, impeccable demi-season classic “combat” coats.

Where would you like to see your things?
We always prepare people for events with great care: hairstyle, make-up, handbag, shoes are important. Sometimes you can ruin a dress with these accessories so much that it becomes just embarrassing that this person is in your brand. We dress the stars, but we try to make a selection. For example, our "ambassador" is Olga Thompson. And from Western stars - Gwen Stefani, Juliette Binoche, Jamie Chung, Eva Longoria, Jessie J ... Oscar, Grammy, Golden Globe ceremonies, the Cannes Film Festival, balls, receptions and parties - this is a great achievement for the Russian house dress up Hollywood stars. In this case, the fashion house is a guide to the world of beauty and blurs the boundaries. I like Cate Blanchett - a talented actress and a woman who positions herself very worthy. We even had one fitting, but, unfortunately, it did not work out: we were supposed to dress Kate for the Australian Film Festival, and the dress did not fit. There was no time to correct it.

What do you consider your main achievement?

Ten years ago, I told the team: “Girls, I think they will soon recognize us in Europe, and at our shows they will applaud in the capitals of the world!” And she thought: “My God, is it really possible?” It turned out it was possible. Once I could not even think that we would dress princesses, and now Caroline of Monaco, Camilla De Bourbon, Nicoletta Romanoff come out in our dresses. Everything is possible. Therefore, we never stop at any specific achievements, we always dream of something bigger and more global.

What is your pricing policy?
The pricing policy of our house is determined individually with each client and depends on the level of complexity of a particular product, the amount of hand embroidery and many other factors.
Also, not so long ago we decided to make a Ready to wear line. We found excellent partners in Italy, launched production and are actively developing. The second line is fully consistent with the philosophy of the Fashion House, but due to the absence of complex hand embroidery and decorative elements that are in couture collections, we were able to create a product that will be available to a wider range of customers, but will in no way be inferior to the traditions of the House , as these are very high quality and beautiful collections, consonant in mood with our Haute Couture collections.

How long does it take to prepare a collection?
According to the long tradition of the Fashion House, immediately after the presentation of the collection at the Haute Couture Week in Paris, we begin work on the next couture collection. Now we are preparing a new collection for spring-summer 2017. Preparing a collection is an almost continuous process.

Who helps you prepare?
Today, the company employs 30 seamstresses and 20 embroiderers, as well as an administrative team, all together we make up a large and friendly family of the Yulia Yanina Fashion House and each member of our family makes a huge contribution to the preparation of each collection.

Citizenship: Russia

-How is the birth of your models, collections?

Usually I do a lot of sketches, draw the same thing endlessly, and then choose the best. But the first option is often the best! Then it comes to working with fabrics (always of the highest quality), a lot is created in a fake way. Inspiration comes from everywhere: from travels, books, music, but the main thing for me is still the person, the individuality to whom the thing is intended.

-What was your first thing?

Of course I made it for myself! In high school, it was such a simple folk blouse with embroidery. I wore it with jeans and it was very bold. Then I realized for the first time that the non-standard attracts attention, it takes only a little effort; after all, that little thing was quite simple, sewn literally from two squares of fabric.

- Have you always loved to sew?

No, just the opposite. I didn't like to sew at all, to be honest. I imagined such an ideal image of a fashion designer who only deals with sketches. This is the merit of my mother - she "grounded" me in a good way, instilled in me the necessary habit of sewing. She was a great fashionista and always dressed at the dressmakers. Already at the age of 15-16 I did not like the standard clothes from Soviet stores, and my mother allowed me to sew at the dressmakers according to my own sketches. And very far back in my childhood, I had a real mania: a whole detachment of dolls and baby dolls, which I endlessly dressed up (she, of course, sewed).

Is it difficult to become a fashion designer?

I have always loved to draw, but I never imagined that I would become a fashion designer. After the art school, due to various circumstances, I did not enter the Moscow Technological Institute. At first it seemed to me the strongest grief, just a blow; one of the best students to go not to a university, but to a school! Only years later, I appreciated the full value of those unique skills, the practice of cutting and sewing that I received there. Recently I was asked how I managed to build all this - a house, a reputation, a circle of clients, a level? In general, nothing special, just... it took 10 years. Nothing is given just like that, everything must be earned, and honestly, but there is no manna from heaven and golden rain!

- Fashion and the 80s, stagnation, the provinces... How could it be combined?

Then, of course, it was very difficult - no information, no opportunities. We, several designers, united and on our own tried to change something, to promote in our "common fashion business". We believed that we were obliged to bring culture to the masses, to "cause fire on ourselves," that is, to show by our own example. They dressed as they saw fit, and on the street they invariably caused shock with their appearance. And this does not mean at all that we looked pretentious, overly extravagant, by no means. Just any well-dressed people were perceived as outcasts. It was a real struggle and I felt like I had to do it. More than once I returned home with tears: why, why is there so much aggression in the world?

-How did you decide to move to Moscow?

When already in 1989 I managed to open my own private firm "Yulya", most of the clients were from Moscow. I had to work very hard to simply survive, but it was a wonderful school. And when it became too difficult to constantly travel, and it also coincided with perestroika, when life began to boil here, a flood of information, interesting events, opportunities poured in, my family and I decided to move to the capital. The first salon was our rented apartment; gatherings in the kitchen, conversations between fittings - in fact, such a "homely" personal style remains with us to this day.

-Why do you, the owner of a prestigious salon that can hardly cope with orders, release two more seasonal collections every year?

I showed my first collection in the early 90s at the then popular Arlekino club. As such, it was not there, but Alexey Danilov suggested that I somehow collect my things for one evening from clients and arrange a show. Everyone went forward and, to my surprise, the show was received extremely well.

Seasonal collections are an incentive for our House. After all, we must be above our clients in terms of creativity, the artist is always an authority. No one cares why you did not make a collection, if you work, then you should have it, if you are developing, provide evidence of this. You can completely and completely devote yourself to orders, customers, earn yourself a piece of bread and butter, but this way you will stay in place. Without evolution, there is no creativity. My calling card is a pantsuit. Any woman who comes to me, regardless of proportions, has it. This is a very complex design, and we are proud that this is the first thing we do to a new person.

-What makes you most happy at work?

I am absolutely sure that I will make a woman more spectacular than she is. This is in my power, and I am happy that my clients trust me. Earlier, in my youth, I was worried, fussed, came up with different versions for the client, compared. Now I look at a person carefully and know exactly what is needed. In youth, you assert yourself more, you dream of glory, which does not exist. But here it is - and you no longer need it, you have found another, true pleasure. Only years later there is a backlash: you begin to enjoy the fruits of previous sacrifices, works, successes and mistakes. And if you really give all the best, if you are honest in your craft, it will definitely pay off. Those changes, transformations that happen to women after meeting with our house are a real impulse for me! I even sometimes feel uncomfortable with the sensations that I get. It would seem that so many years have passed, but the "freshness" of sensations does not pass.

- Do you regret any missed opportunities, tempting offers?

I do not regret a single offer that I refused, each for me as a reward, recognition. I didn't have to fight the temptation, break myself. I always think a lot and try not to neglect my principles. I probably owe this to a serious crisis that happened to me in my youth. A lot of tests fell on me, then a girl "in pink glasses". There has been a real reassessment of values. I began to look deeper at life, at people, to understand them better. Everyone has their own path, their own priorities: you can sell your freedom - / and at some point your partners will still dictate their terms, because you depend on them. I create within the limits that I set myself. We are expanding, opening a boutique, but not because we are "lucky", but because we have earned it. It's my turn.

-Where do you get your strength from?

My main support and support is my husband Eugene. He is not only the commercial director of the salon of Yulia Yanina, without him my work would not be possible. I put a lot of effort into my work, both physically and mentally. For full-fledged self-giving, I need a source of energy, and this source for me since the age of 16 has been Evgeny.

Christian Dior and Chanel. I'm the kind of person who needs to watch movies with happy endings; look, and it seems that you can move mountains. Gabrielle Chanel has come a long way, she has made herself. Despite everything that she had to go through, from nothing - to the very top. A completely different favorite image is Dior. Such a vulnerable, lyrical, bright person who threw out dazzling beauty to the world. In general, the end of the 40s, 50s for me is the standard of beauty.

-Who in a friendly and professional way do you like your Russian colleagues?

Perhaps, of all, I would single out Igor Chapurin and Andrey Sharov.

-How do you dress - do you sew or go shopping?

This is a fundamental question - I'm always in my own models. Showcase itself (laughs).

-What are you dreaming about?

My dream is my present. For a long time I dreamed of an ideal Fashion House, of free creativity. And not just dreamed, but believed - and today my dream has come true.

In a word, the collection "a la rus" evoked mixed emotions in me. On the one hand, this is a very successful attempt to popularize Russian art in the fashion world. On the other hand... well, you can't be so careless with art, which has such an ancient and deeply symbolic history. It is especially impossible for a fashion designer who considers himself a Russian person.

The Savoy Hotel hosted a private show yesterday, organized by designer Yulia Yanina for her regular customers and friends. The presentation of the Yanina Couture cruise collection was held in the format of a light party that briefly took the audience from rainy Moscow to the Cote d'Azur of the French Riviera.

Outfits - quite in the spirit of prestigious European resorts. Light sundresses for walking along the promenades, colorful hand-embroidered tunics for hot beach parties, dresses decorated with floral patterns, so necessary for a perfect holiday.

The designer offers a diverse color palette - it includes white, soft pink, and rich rich shades of blue, purple and emerald.

previous post on the topic:

Harmony in work is largely based on personal happiness. my husband
Eugene, Julia considers her the most reliable friend and indispensable assistant in her work, a person who gives her spiritual and domestic comfort.

-How is the birth of your models, collections?

Usually I do a lot of sketches, draw the same thing endlessly, and then choose the best. But the first option is often the best! Then it comes to working with fabrics (always of the highest quality), a lot is created in a fake way. Inspiration comes from everywhere: from travels, books, music, but the main thing for me is still the person, the individuality to whom the thing is intended.

-What was your first thing?

Of course I made it for myself! In high school, it was such a simple folk blouse with embroidery. I wore it with jeans and it was very bold. Then I realized for the first time that the non-standard attracts attention, it takes only a little effort; after all, that little thing was quite simple, sewn literally from two squares of fabric.

- Have you always loved to sew?

No, just the opposite. I didn't like to sew at all, to be honest. I imagined such an ideal image of a fashion designer who only deals with sketches. This is the merit of my mother - she "grounded" me in a good way, instilled in me the necessary habit of sewing. She was a great fashionista and always dressed at the dressmakers. Already at the age of 15-16 I did not like the standard clothes from Soviet stores, and my mother allowed me to sew at the dressmakers according to my own sketches. And very far back in my childhood, I had a real mania: a whole detachment of dolls and baby dolls, which I endlessly dressed up (she, of course, sewed).

Is it difficult to become a fashion designer?

I have always loved to draw, but I never imagined that I would become a fashion designer. After the art school, due to various circumstances, I did not enter the Moscow Technological Institute. At first it seemed to me the strongest grief, just a blow; one of the best students to go not to a university, but to a school! Only years later, I appreciated the full value of those unique skills, the practice of cutting and sewing that I received there. Recently I was asked how I managed to build all this - a house, a reputation, a circle of clients, a level? In general, nothing special, just... it took 10 years. Nothing is given just like that, everything must be earned, and honestly, but there is no manna from heaven and golden rain!

- Fashion and the 80s, stagnation, the provinces... How could it be combined?

Then, of course, it was very difficult - no information, no opportunities. We, several designers, united and on our own tried to change something, to promote in our "common fashion business". We believed that we were obliged to bring culture to the masses, to "cause fire on ourselves," that is, to show by our own example. They dressed as they saw fit, and on the street they invariably caused shock with their appearance. And this does not mean at all that we looked pretentious, overly extravagant, by no means. Just any well-dressed people were perceived as outcasts. It was a real struggle and I felt like I had to do it. More than once I returned home with tears: why, why is there so much aggression in the world?

-How did you decide to move to Moscow?

When already in 1989 I managed to open my own private firm "Yulya", most of the clients were from Moscow. I had to work very hard to simply survive, but it was a wonderful school. And when it became too difficult to constantly travel, and it also coincided with perestroika, when life began to boil here, a flood of information, interesting events, opportunities poured in, my family and I decided to move to the capital. The first salon was our rented apartment; gatherings in the kitchen, conversations between fittings - in fact, such a "homely" personal style remains with us to this day.

-Why do you, the owner of a prestigious salon that can hardly cope with orders, release two more seasonal collections every year?

I showed my first collection in the early 90s at the then popular Arlekino club. As such, it was not there, but Alexey Danilov suggested that I somehow collect my things for one evening from clients and arrange a show. Everyone went forward and, to my surprise, the show was received extremely well.

Seasonal collections are an incentive for our House. After all, we must be above our clients in terms of creativity, the artist is always an authority. No one cares why you did not make a collection, if you work, then you should have it, if you are developing, provide evidence of this. You can completely and completely devote yourself to orders, customers, earn yourself a piece of bread and butter, but this way you will stay in place. Without evolution, there is no creativity. My calling card is a pantsuit. Any woman who comes to me, regardless of proportions, has it. This is a very complex design, and we are proud that this is the first thing we do to a new person.

-What makes you most happy at work?

I am absolutely sure that I will make a woman more spectacular than she is. This is in my power, and I am happy that my clients trust me. Earlier, in my youth, I was worried, fussed, came up with different versions for the client, compared. Now I look at a person carefully and know exactly what is needed. In youth, you assert yourself more, you dream of glory, which does not exist. But here it is - and you no longer need it, you have found another, true pleasure. Only years later there is a backlash: you begin to enjoy the fruits of previous sacrifices, works, successes and mistakes. And if you really give all the best, if you are honest in your craft, it will definitely pay off. Those changes, transformations that happen to women after meeting with our house are a real impulse for me! I even sometimes feel uncomfortable with the sensations that I get. It would seem that so many years have passed, but the "freshness" of sensations does not pass.

- Do you regret any missed opportunities, tempting offers?

I do not regret a single offer that I refused, each for me as a reward, recognition. I didn't have to fight the temptation, break myself. I always think a lot and try not to neglect my principles. I probably owe this to a serious crisis that happened to me in my youth. A lot of tests fell on me, then a girl "in pink glasses". There has been a real reassessment of values. I began to look deeper at life, at people, to understand them better. Everyone has their own path, their own priorities: you can sell your freedom - / and at some point your partners will still dictate their terms, because you depend on them. I create within the limits that I set myself. We are expanding, opening a boutique, but not because we are "lucky", but because we have earned it. It's my turn.

-Where do you get your strength from?

My main support and support is my husband Eugene. He is not only the commercial director of the salon of Yulia Yanina, without him my work would not be possible. I put a lot of effort into my work, both physically and mentally. For full-fledged self-giving, I need a source of energy, and this source for me since the age of 16 has been Evgeny.

Christian Dior and Chanel. I'm the kind of person who needs to watch movies with happy endings; look, and it seems that you can move mountains. Gabrielle Chanel has come a long way, she has made herself. Despite everything that she had to go through, from nothing - to the very top. A completely different favorite image is Dior. Such a vulnerable, lyrical, bright person who threw out dazzling beauty to the world. In general, the end of the 40s, 50s for me is the standard of beauty.

-Who in a friendly and professional way do you like your Russian colleagues?

Perhaps, of all, I would single out Igor Chapurin and Andrey Sharov.

-How do you dress - do you sew or go shopping?

This is a fundamental question - I'm always in my own models. Showcase itself (laughs).

-What are you dreaming about?

My dream is my present. For a long time I dreamed of an ideal Fashion House, of free creativity. And not just dreamed, but believed - and today my dream has come true.