The base pattern of the dress (basic pattern) is exactly where any dress begins. In order to create such a pattern, it is necessary to take measurements from the figure, perform the necessary calculations and complete the construction. The process is not complicated, but it requires a certain amount of time. If you have never created a pattern for the base of a dress, we offer you a simple one, using which you can easily create a pattern in just an hour. However, there is an even easier way!
Rice. 1 Table of women's measurements
Compare your measurements with the table and determine your dress size. Then check the selected size as shown in fig. 2.
How to check a pattern
To check the size you have chosen, measure using the pattern:
Half bust: sections X=X1+X2,
Half waist: Y=Y1+Y2+Y3+Y4,
Half hip circumference: Z=Z1+Z2.
Rice. 2. Control of the dress pattern
Multiply each calculated X, Y and Z value by 2 and compare with your measurements. Each value of 2X, 2Y and 2Z should be about 3 cm larger than the corresponding measured value.
Important values – Back Length to Waist (DTS) And Front length to waist (accident). If your DTS and RTA measurements coincide with the table ones, no adjustment is required; in other cases, you need to adjust the pattern, since the position of the waistline depends on these values.
To adjust the DTS, cut the pattern horizontally just below the armhole line and shorten or lengthen the pattern to the desired length along the back. Similarly, adjust the front half of the dress by shortening or lengthening the accident.
Rice. 3. Adjustment of DTS
Adjustment of waist and hip circumferences
What should you do if, when choosing a pattern for your size, the Bust Circumference does not match the Waist Circumference and Hip Circumference?
In this case, you need to adjust the waist circumference and hip circumference when drawing the pattern. This is very easy to do, based on the contour lines of the pattern. For example, if, according to your measurements, the chest circumference corresponds to the standard size 46, the waist circumference corresponds to size 44, and the hip circumference corresponds to size 48, when outlining the waist line, go to the contour line of the previous 44 size, and when outlining the hip line, go to the next size 48.
Rice. 4. Outlining the pattern with girth adjustments
How to download and print the pattern
You can download the pattern in full size, just click on the button below. Print the pattern on a printer in full size (595*1075 mm) - it is better to do this at a copy center.
The pattern can be downloaded in A4 format divided into sheets (do not adjust when printing and print as is). Please note that this type of printing and gluing may result in distortion of the pattern dimensions, be sure to check the key measurements as described above.
We wish you beautiful dresses, admiring glances and new creative ideas!
If you sew often, you know that any product can be modeled using a base pattern. It is the accuracy of the design of the base, be it a dress, blouse, jacket or any other product, that is the key to a perfect fit and successful tailoring. An accurate base pattern will allow you to sew any dress without numerous fittings, and get real pleasure from the work and the result. All that remains is to learn and build such a structure yourself - so that it smoothly fits the figure, gives freedom of movement and meets the requirements of the silhouette of the product. Dress silhouettes are divided into several types: very close-fitting, close-fitting, semi-fitting, straight. In order for your dress to “fit” perfectly, you should correctly allow for loose fit when building the base. We will tell you how to make them correctly and how to create the exact pattern for the base of the dress in this article.
- Dress length 100 cm
- Back length to waist 43 cm
- Front length to waist 47 cm
- Shoulder length 12 cm
- Half neck circumference 19 cm
- Half circumference above the chest 44 cm
- Half chest 48 cm
- Half waist 38 cm
- Half hip circumference 51 cm
- Hip height 20 cm
- The distance between the high points of the chest is 20 cm
IMPORTANT!All calculations performed when constructing a dress pattern are valid for a Bust Circumference (BC) of more than 80 cm.
Drawing a dress pattern
The construction of a dress pattern begins with drawing a rectangle ABCD.
Dress width. The lines of the rectangle AB and DC are equal to the half-circumference of the chest according to the measurement plus the increase in freedom of fit from: AB = DC = 48 cm + increase in freedom of fit.
IMPORTANT! When constructing a pattern for the base of a dress, it is necessary to take into account the increases given in Table 1. There you will also find detailed instructions on how to use them.
Dress length. The lines of the rectangle AD and BC are equal to 100 centimeters (the length of the dress as measured).
Pattern-basis of the dress: 1st stage of design
Armhole depth. From point A downwards, the Armhole Depth is laid down with an increase and point D is placed (GPr = 1/10 of the Chest Circumference + 10.5 cm = 9.6 + 10.5 = 20 + increase).
From point G, a line is drawn to the right until it intersects with line BC, and the intersection point is designated G1.
Dress waist line. From point A, lay down 43 cm (back length to waist according to measurement) and place point T. From point T, draw a line to the right until it intersects with line BC. The intersection point is designated by the letter T1.
Hip line of the dress. From point T, 20 cm are laid down (hip height according to measurement) and point L is placed, from which a line is drawn to the right until it intersects with line BC. The intersection point is designated by the letter L1.
Dress back width (ShS). From point G to the right, the width of the back is set aside and point G2 is placed (ШС = (1/8 Chest Circumference +5.5 cm) for all sizes plus the increase in freedom of fit from Table 1).
Note. For a very fitted silhouette, the increase in Back Width, Armhole Width and Front Width can be omitted, but the fabric should be chosen with elastic fibers.
From point G2, draw a line upward until it intersects with line AB and the intersection point is designated by the letter P.
Armhole width of the dress (ShPr). From point G2 to the right, the armhole width G2G3 is set aside (G2G3 = (1/8 of the Chest Circumference - 1.5 cm) for all sizes, plus the increase in freedom of fit from Table 1.
Raising the front of the dress. From point T1, 47 cm is set aside upward and point W is placed (Length of front to waist according to measurement).
From point Ш, draw a horizontal line to the left. From point G3, raise the perpendicular upward. At the intersection of the lines, point P1 is obtained, and the point of intersection with line AB is designated by the letter P2.
Side line of the dress. G2G3 is divided in half. Point G4. From point G4, lower the line down until it intersects with the DC line; its intersection with the TT1 line is designated by the letter T2, and its intersection with the LL1 line by the letter L2.
Auxiliary points of the shoulder and armhole. Lines PG2 and P2G3 are divided into four equal parts.
Calculation of tackle darts. Excess fabric for waist darts is calculated using the formula: Half bust minus half waist = 48-38 = 10 cm.
Of these, 1/3 is removed into the side darts - 1.5 cm in the back and front of the dress, the remaining 7 cm is distributed in the back and front - 4 cm is removed in the dart along the back of the dress, 3 cm - in the front of the dress. For additional fitting (if necessary), make a second dart along the front and another along the central seam of the back.
Pattern-basis of the dress: 2nd stage of design
Building the back
Dress neckline. From point A, add 6.5 centimeters to the right (1/3 of the half-circumference of the neck by measurement plus 0.5 centimeters for all sizes): 19/3 + 0.5 = 6.8.
From point 6.8 upwards, 2 centimeters are laid down. Points A and 2 are connected by a concave line.
The slope of the shoulder of the dress. 1.5 centimeters are laid down from point P.
Shoulder line. From point 2 (neck) through point 1.5 (shoulder slope) draw a shoulder line 12 centimeters long (shoulder length as measured plus 0-1 centimeter for fit for all sizes).
You will find even more creative ideas and patterns on the website of Anastasia Korfiati’s Sewing School. Subscribe to our free lessons newsletter!
If you decide to sew a dress, the first thing you should start with is to take measurements and build a pattern that can be used to model any style. Today we will give you a step-by-step construction of the dress base pattern.
But first - .
To draw a drawing of the pattern-basis of a women's dress, you need to take measurements (size 48):
- Bust 96 cm
- Circumference above the chest 88 cm
- Waist 76 cm
- Hip circumference 102 cm
- Hip height 20 cm
- Front length to waist 47 cm
- Back length to waist 43 cm
- Shoulder length 12 cm
- Neck circumference 38 cm
- Center of chest (distance between high points of chest) 22 cm
- Armhole depth 20.5 cm
- Dress length 100 cm
IMPORTANT! All calculations performed when constructing a dress pattern are valid for a Bust Circumference (CG) of more than 80 cm.
Where to begin?
Before you start creating the base pattern for the dress, decide on the silhouette. It is important to determine for yourself what kind of dress you want to sew: tight-fitting, semi-tight-fitting or loose. Based on this, make an increase in the freedom of fit of the product.
We are building a dress with a close-fitting silhouette and adding 1.5 cm to the half-circumference of the chest (see).
Calculation of auxiliary values
Let's calculate the auxiliary values that we will need when constructing the pattern:
Back Width (BW). Formula for calculation: 1/8 OG +5.5 cm=17.5 cm
Armhole Width (ShPr). Formula for calculation: 1/8OG -1.5 cm=10.5
Chest Width (CH). Formula for calculation: 1/4OG -4 cm=20 cm
Armhole depth (GPr). We measure it or, to check the measurements, calculate it using the formula GPr = 1/10OG +10.5 = 20.5 cm. If the calculated value does not coincide with the measured value, take the average between them.
Step back 10-15 cm from the top of the sheet and place point A in the upper left corner. Down from point A, draw a vertical line 100 cm long (the length of the dress as measured). To the right of point A, draw a horizontal line with a length equal to 1/2 of the chest circumference according to the measurement of +1.5 cm (increase in freedom of fit) - points D and B are obtained - draw segments DC and BC.
Armhole line. From point A downwards, set aside the Armhole Depth according to the measurement + 0.5 cm (increase in freedom of fit from) - you have obtained point D. Draw a horizontal line GG1.
From point G to the right, set aside the Back Width +0 cm (to fit loosely) and the Armhole Width + 0.5 cm (to fit loosely), Chest Width + 1 cm. In total, we made an increase of 0+0.5+1=1.5 cm is the increase that we set above. Draw vertical lines from the resulting points upward until they intersect with AB.
Waistline. From point A down, set the length of the back to the waist according to the measurement - point T. Draw segment TT1.
Hip line. From point T, set aside 20 cm - the height of the hips as measured - point L. Draw a segment LL1.
Side line. Divide the width of the armhole with the increase in half, from the division point draw a vertical side line down until it intersects with DC. Divide the left and right auxiliary vertical lines of the armhole into 4 equal parts (red crosses).
Back neckline. From point A, set aside 6.8 cm to the right (1/6 of the neck circumference according to the measurement + 0.5 cm) and up 2 cm (for all sizes). Draw a curved line for the back neckline.
Back shoulder. On the left auxiliary line of the armhole, set aside 1.5 cm from the top down. Connect points 2 (back neckline) and 1.5 (shoulder slope) with a straight line, set aside along it Shoulder length according to measurement + 1 cm = 12+1=13 cm In the process of sewing the product, the length of the back shoulder is slightly adjusted.
Back armhole line. From the lower left corner (the width of the armhole), draw a bisector of the angle 2-2.5 cm long and, or by hand, draw an armhole for the back, based on the control points: point 13, the middle auxiliary dividing point, point 2, to the side line.
Lifting the shelf. From point T1, set aside 47 cm (front length to waist according to measurement) - you have obtained point W. From point W, draw a horizontal line to the left. Extend the right vertical line of the armhole upward (see Fig. 7).
Front neckline. From point W, set aside 6.8 cm to the left (1/6 of the neck circumference according to the measurement + 0.5 cm) and down 7.8 cm (1/6 of the neck circumference according to the measurement + 1.5 cm). Draw the front neckline along the pattern (or by hand) (Fig. 8).
Front shoulder to dart. From point 6.8 (neck), set aside 4 cm to the left and 1 cm down (for all sizes). Draw a short inclined section (Fig. 9).
From point 1 down, draw segment 1-G2 to the armhole line (GG1) so that G1G2 = 11 cm (1/2 measurement Center of the chest) - the right side of the chest dart is built.
Bust dart. Divide the right side of the chest dart in half and from the division point draw a horizontal segment 4 cm long (Half chest circumference minus Half circumference above the chest: 48-44 = 4 cm). Through point 4, draw the left side of the chest dart with a length equal to the length of the right side of the chest dart (Fig. 10).
Front shoulder line. Draw an auxiliary dotted line from the top point of the left side of the chest dart to the top dividing point of the auxiliary line of the back armhole (Fig. 11).
Along the auxiliary dotted line, set aside 8 cm (12 cm (shoulder length as measured) minus 4 cm (shoulder length to the right side of the bust dart) and down at a right angle 2 cm (for all sizes). Draw the front shoulder line (Fig. 12) .
From the extreme point of the front shoulder, draw an auxiliary dotted line to the lower point of division of the auxiliary line of the armhole, divide it in half (Fig. 13). From the lower right corner (armhole), draw a bisector 2 cm long.
From the point of division of the auxiliary dotted line, move 1 cm to the right at a right angle (Fig. 13). Using a pattern or by hand, draw the front armhole along the control points: point 2 (shoulder), point 1, point 2 (angle bisector), to the side line.
Calculation of darts:
Darts are calculated as follows: 1/2 Bust circumference minus 1/2 Waist circumference = 48-38 = 10 cm. This is excess fabric around the waist, which must be removed into darts. We put 1/3 of the obtained value in the side darts and 2/3 in the back and front - a little more in the back (4 cm) and a little less in the front (3 cm).
Side darts: 10 cm /3 = 3.3 cm (rounded - 1.5 cm in the back and in the shelf) (Fig. 14).
IMPORTANT! To calculate the lack of volume in the hips, we apply the formula: (hip circumference minus chest circumference) /4 = (102-96)/4 = 1.5 cm (set aside 1.5 cm along the hip line from the side line to the left and right and draw lines sides of the back and front of the dress.
Back tuck: Divide the width of the back waist to the side seam in half and from the division point draw a vertical line to the armhole line and the hip line. Draw a dart as shown in Fig. 15: Divide the distance T-1.5 in half, put a cross and draw a vertical dotted line through it up and down. Place 3-4 cm down from the armhole line, 2 cm up from the hip line. Construct a back dart 4 cm wide.
Front waist tuck. From the top of the bust dart, draw an auxiliary perpendicular to the waist line. From point G2, set down 5-6 cm and draw a dart 3 cm deep as shown in Fig. 15.
ADVICE! If you have a narrow waist and a “kinky” back, excess fabric can be tucked into the middle seam along the back and an additional dart (see Fig. 16 blue lines). To create an additional front dart, set 3 cm to the right from the lower right corner of the armhole and draw a vertical dotted line down to the hip line. From the armhole line along the auxiliary vertical dotted line, set aside 7-8 cm, from the hip line up - 1.5 cm. Build a dart 2 cm deep.
For additional fitting along the middle seam of the back, build a dart 1-1.5 cm deep and connect the resulting point with points L and D with a smooth line.
Rice. 17. Basic pattern of the back and front in finished form
If necessary, build or
The quality of the material used for sewing is often the starting point when creating a product sketch. The density, elasticity coefficient and color of the material give rise to the outlines and silhouette lines of the future model in the designer’s imagination. For our next lesson, we created a model from dense, “heavy” synthetic jersey in a dark plum color, and when working on the model, it was the material that dictated the silhouette of the dress. The result is a product that can highlight all the advantages of a female figure!
A one-piece sleeve is not only a very popular modern trend, but also an excellent solution for clothing of soft shapes, because the shoulder line of such a sleeve turns out to be a streamlined, smooth shape, and the configuration of the shoulder slope and the width of the sleeve itself can be varied depending on the angle of the sleeve during modeling. Let's take a closer look at what types of one-piece sleeves there are, how they differ, and how to model a one-piece sleeve with a gusset yourself.
If you can’t imagine your life without trousers, then you probably have the most fashionable styles of trousers in your wardrobe and it’s difficult to surprise you with anything. However, we will still try to offer you to sew another very impressive model - cropped trousers made of dusty rose-colored fabric with a high corset-type belt. What makes these trousers unique? This model allows you to model the ideal silhouette and create perfect proportions - the design of the belt perfectly draws a thin waist, visually elongating the figure, making the legs incredibly long! The pattern of trousers with a corset belt is in our next lesson.
Blouses with drapery look very unusual and impressive. Graceful soft shimmer of fabric, asymmetrical cut and one of the most fashionable colors of the coming season - these are the main components of the success of this feminine blouse. And if you add a long train falling in soft folds to the drapery, you will get a real masterpiece worthy of your wardrobe! Pattern of a blouse with drapery - in our next lesson.
If you want to give your favorite skirts a new interpretation, then there is no easier way than adding straps to them! Just look at these charming models! A classic pencil skirt, a circle skirt and a denim A-line skirt - three completely different models with long straps look equally impressive. We offer you ready-made patterns for these charming skirts that you can sew yourself.
The aesthetics of modern society in terms of wardrobe and appearance follows the path of minimalism - today naturalness, high-quality materials, and precise cut are more valued in clothing. Fashion is cyclical, and the trends that we see today are just another round of history. So let's fully enjoy this period of time and sew one of the most classic skirt models - the four-piece skirt. The modern model is made of denim and in a new interpretation looks incredibly feminine and luxurious.
Each fashion show by the famous designer and inimitable style icon Victoria Beckham is a real event and always receives a huge number of admiring reviews. The dresses she creates almost never go out of fashion - elegant shapes, flowing silhouettes and enveloping fabrics are the main components of the success of her models. Due to numerous requests from our subscribers, we are publishing a pattern that we developed based on a dress from Victoria Beckham.
This charming sundress with straps is made for real ladies. The model very succinctly combines a fitted bodice cut, wide straps and a fluffy skirt shaped like a bell. Large metal buttons perfectly set off the rich print of the fabric, placing the right accents at the right points. Pattern of a sundress with a full skirt - in this lesson.
For the hardworking - a bright light burns through life, for the lazy - a dim candle
Constructing a base pattern - THE MOST CLEAR METHOD (for beginners)
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Good afternoon I would even say a beautiful day. Because we are finally starting a series of articles on tailoring for adults. We have already sewn a lot of things for little girls - both dresses and bodysuits are different - now we will sew for big girls. That is, for myself. And since you and I have already practiced sewing, the fear of the pioneer has passed.
THAT MEANS IT'S TIME TO TAKE A NEW FRONTIER. And master the wisdom of sewing using real adult patterns yourself, with your own hands and your own brains. We will draw the base pattern ourselves - in a new, easy way (I spent more than one week creating this lightweight method for creating a base pattern). And then we will sew a bunch of all kinds of dresses, tops and tunics.
No- I won’t give you a single finished pattern!
I'm not Madame Burda. I am Madame Klishevskaya.))) And the main harmfulness of my character is... That I will make your head work and give birth to bright and clear discoveries in the field of sewing. The easiest and most understandable of all types of art. Believe me, this is true.
Yes- sewing yourself is very easy and simple!
Right from scratch you will get more and more beautiful and well-tailored things.
Moreover, you will do everything yourself, without a state of hypnosis, but in a sober mind and clear memory. YOU will DO it - moreover, you will UNDERSTAND what exactly you are doing.
I will tell you the secrets that I know. Moreover, I will teach you to discover more and more secrets of the world of sewing and clothing design.
I will not lead you (blind and stupid) by the hand in the chaos of letters and numbers denoting the intricacy of numerous lines of the design drawing. NO, I WILL NOT TAKE YOU HERE:
Well, you must admit, one such picture can instill fear and make a girl who doubts her own abilities really, really wants to sew a dress- But I wasn’t very good with geometry and drawing during my school years. Even I, who adore both of these school subjects, beat around the bush for several years, not daring to start delving into the construction of such a drawing: “How long will it take to draw something like this, and after all, everything must be calculated correctly and not get confused in the letters...”.
And, nevertheless, today we will draw a pattern.
We will draw a base pattern (you see a piece of it from above.))))
But - don’t be afraid - we will create our pattern a little differently. Away from the engineering design method - and closer to human understanding.
We will draw one for you - just one- pattern.
And then from it we will create more and more new dress models. And it will be very easy and simple.
- No confusing formulas
- No confusing calculations.
- And without the letter-number cobweb.
So how? Have I already alleviated some of your concerns?
I'll relax now - we won't start drawing right now. First, we'll take a nice stroll through the pattern. The purpose of the walk is to get to know and become friends with the pattern and remove the last doubt that you can sew any dress.
So... what is a pattern - the basis?
To put it figuratively, this is a cast of your body. This is your individual imprint. Any item sewn according to YOUR base pattern will fit YOUR figure perfectly.
Yes, you heard right - ANY THING can be sewn on the basis one single pattern. All dress models are born, modeled, and sewn from one source - this is the base pattern.
I will now prove it to you with an example. Even with three examples - in the form of photos and pictures.
Here is the first photo (below). Our pattern base is essentially your sheath dress (the one that fits your body perfectly). Dress made by yours pattern base, will follow all the curves your his bodies. This simple sheath dress is sewn using a regular base pattern. You see, it’s like a plaster cast of a girl’s figure.
And today, having drawn the base pattern, you can safely cut it on the fabric - and you will get a dress like this. The only thing you can change is the neckline - giving it the shape that suits your face shape.
All other (any kind) dress models are just a modification of a sheath dress - fantasies on a free theme.
This is how it happens in the fashion world.
One day a fashion designer thought...“What if the bodice of the dress at the top is held on the shoulders by a round yoke (yellow outlines - figure below), and the bodice itself is made in the form of overlapping intersecting triangles (red outlines - figure below). The result is what we see in the photo below.
Beautiful? Beautiful! What did the fashion designer base his fantasies on? Based on a pattern. And you can come up with something of your own. We women have just a lot of imagination.
By the way - since we’re talking about a round yoke here - this site already has one of my articles on creating and
And another fashion designer thought: “What if you give the sheath dress a looser cut - make it wider. And make the shoulder line longer so that it hangs over the arm.” And as a result, a new model is born (photo below) - also very beautiful. And it's very simple.
You can do this too. If you will UNDERSTAND what the base pattern consists of. And by what laws does it exist?
That is why I don’t want to stupidly give you instructions on creating a base pattern (like “draw a line from point P6 to point P5 and mark the place where it intersects with line X with the next point...” - ugh!).
I want to awaken you bitch. I want you to feel the pattern, to know its soul. Haven't learned to see what a simple drawing hides behind a photograph of any dress, even an intricately tailored one.
Therefore, for the next 30 minutes we will not draw anything - we will walk through the pattern itself. Let's get acquainted with all its elements - find out what each line serves, and why it is located here and drawn this way.
After such an “educational walk” you will feel a joyful clarity of understanding of everything, everything, everything. It's like you've already drawn basic patterns many times. And you will take up the drawing with the feeling that this is a couple of trifles. Ha! Business!
As the sage said: “We are afraid only of what we cannot understand and explain logically. But as soon as the thing that frightens us becomes clear to us, it ceases to cause us fear.”
So let’s go and tame this “terrible beast” - the base pattern. Let's tame and draw in 20 minutes. Yes, yes, in 20 minutes - because after a walk - the pattern drawing will seem to you an old and familiar simple drawing - like a grid for playing tic-tac-toe.
Where does the base pattern come from?
So where does the base pattern come from - usually it is obtained from the following drawing:
The drawing contains half of the back part + half of the front part.
We will also draw a similar drawing with you - only more simple and understandable.
And what these halves are needed for, and where to use them - now I will clearly show everything.
Here (!) I dug up a wonderful sample - below - in the photograph of a black and white dress, our halves are very clearly visible - both the back half and the front half. So to speak - clearly and understandably.
Yes, in the Potnovian language the halves are called “shelves”. Today we will draw these same front and back shelves. But first, let’s take a closer look at what elements each shelf consists of. And most importantly, I will tell you why each element is needed and what it serves.
To make everything as clear as possible, I will illustrate each of the elements both in pictures and in photographs of real dress models.
First, let's get acquainted with two incomprehensible words: DOT And ARMHOLE.
Of course you may know them. Or maybe not. My job is to introduce you.
So, meet - PROYMA
When drawing a base pattern, you will create exactly that bend and size armhole that suits you – when the armhole does not pull or dig into your arm.
That is, the pattern base contains minimum armhole size allowed. You can model the armhole to your taste, in any configuration. But your fantasy armhole should not be smaller than on the base pattern. That is, the armhole is based on a pattern - These are the boundaries beyond which your imagination should not cross.
Your model armhole can be as large as you like - but it cannot be smaller than on the base pattern. More - yes, less - no - otherwise it will dig into the armpit. This is the rule in modeling designer armholes.
Now let's get acquainted with the darts.
DARTS ON THE BACK – shoulder dart + waist dart
In the picture above, I wrote everything about the back darts - and in the photo of the dress you can find 2 waist darts - one to the right of the zipper, the other to the left of the zipper.
But you don’t see the shoulder dart on this dress. And many dresses don’t have it either. Because for convenience and beauty, this dart is moved from the middle of the shoulder to the zipper (or along the edge of the armhole, where the sleeve will be, a corner is simply cut off). That is, the excess fabric is not pinched at the middle of the shoulder and is not sewn inside the dart. And the extra fabric cut in the form of a corner at the edge of the shelf, where the zipper is sewn in, or at the edge of the armhole - where the sleeve will be sewn in.
Also, darts are not necessary if you sew from stretch fabric - it itself follows the curves of your body and shrinks both in the shoulder and waist areas.
Let's get to know each other next... DARTS ON HALF FRONT
Oh, I could write a whole poem about her.
I spent a long time wondering how to explain more clearly - why it is needed and by what laws it lives. I thought and thought... and came up with an idea.
The fact is that a woman has breasts.))) That is, from the front, an adult girl is no longer flat. This means that the dress should be convex in the chest area. The dart on the front shoulder gives the dress that same bulge in the bust area. Now I’ll show you everything in pictures. How does this happen.
For example, we have a flat piece of fabric, but we need to make a convex piece out of it. To do this, you need to make a tuck on it. For example, this flat circle of cardboard will now become convex with the help of a dart.
And here's how a bust dart creates a bulge on the front detail
You will notice that the top of the convexity (that is, the peak of our round pyramid) is at the tip of the dart. Pay attention to this. Because when we draw the bust dart, the point of our dart will be at the top of the chest(where the nipple or bra cup is usually located).
Remember that sometimes you tried on a dress in your size in a store, which somehow strangely skewed on the chest - this is because the dart in the dress with its point was directed by the tops of your chest. So the breasts did not fit perfectly into the bulge of the dress. This product was not cut at the factory to suit your breast shape.
But that is not all, what I want to say about the chest dart.
The fact is that in almost all dresses this chest dart is located not on the shoulder- A on the side just below the armpit. This is done for beauty. The dart on the shoulder catches the eye more, but on the side, and even covered by the hand, it is not noticeable.
When creating a base pattern, we draw a chest dart on the shoulder only because it is more convenient to draw there from the point of view of constructing a drawing.
And after the drawing of the base pattern is ready, we very easily and simply transfer the dart from the shoulder area to the armpit area. Don’t think that you need to make new drawings for this. Nope, everything is simple here - like opening a carton of milk - one minute and that’s it.
Here, in the picture below I schematically depicted transferring the bust dart from the shoulder to the side seam under the arm.
Well, do you already feel how wiser you have become in these 15 minutes?))) Or there will be more... Let's continue our walk through the pattern and now let's get acquainted with the lines. Horizontal lines
CHEST LINE
The first acquaintance is the chest line. (It’s a beautiful dress, isn’t it? We’ll make it for you. Don’t even hesitate)
The bust line is the most remarkable line on the pattern. It is so convenient to focus on it when drawing a base pattern because:
- We know that we finish drawing the waist dart of the back at the bust line.
- We know that we finish drawing the front waist dart not reaching 4 cm from the chest line.
- We know that the shoulder dart is in the front - we finish drawing it at the chest line.
- We know that the lower edges of the armholes also follow the bust line.
Well, no, of course, you don’t know that yet. I will give all these simple rules when we start drawing. And now I just want you to know that when drawing many elements of a pattern, you can simply focus on the chest line (and there is no need to painstakingly put down these letter-number dots).
As you can see, there’s a lot of everything!! Therefore, go ahead - study, sew and enjoy life)))
WHAT TO DO NEXT - WITH THE PATTERN BASE? - you ask
And we will start sewing according to the base pattern of the TOP. Namely tops, T-shirts, tunics and then dresses.
You might ask, “Hey, why not just dresses?” I give the answer to this question in the first article of the series. So to be continued)))
Happy sewing!