Coloring, highlighting, blonding and other procedures requiring the skills of a colorist have always been one of the most popular hairdressing services. And they will remain in demand for a number of reasons (the desire to change their image, age-related changes, trends, etc.). A novice hairdresser who has mastered at least the basics of color very quickly moves from the category of beginners to the category of masters, with clients making appointments several weeks in advance.
What is colorism and why is it important for a hairdresser?
If we discard complex scientific terms and specific definitions, coloristics is the science of the interaction of colors and shades. Even a child knows about the existence of 7 primary colors, because a clear confirmation of this is the rainbow - one of the most beautiful phenomena of nature. And all other shades, tones, halftones and colors are obtained by mixing the main ones in certain proportions. A similar principle is used in printing, where only 3-4 primary colors can be used for a full-color image - yellow, red, blue and, sometimes, black.
Colorism in the field of hairdressing provides deeper, narrowly focused knowledge:
- how dyes interact with hair of different types and shades;
- what shades are obtained by mixing different dyes;
- what drugs strengthen or, conversely, weaken hair dyes;
- how to protect your hair from the aggressive influence of coloring agents.
The goal of coloristics is to achieve perfect harmony of results when coloring any type. And you can get closer to this goal by mastering the basics. This knowledge will help you determine exactly which products, shades and coloring methods are suitable for a particular client. And if suddenly an error occurred, or the client demanded something that frankly did not suit him, and then decided to return “everything as it was” - the basics of coloristics will allow you to correct the situation. Moreover, it can be corrected so quickly that the client himself may not notice the mistake made by the novice master!
How to learn the main secrets of a colorist's skill?
Textbooks, topical literature, sharing personal experiences with other hairdressers, independently studying sites dedicated to color in hairdressing - all this (and much more) will bear fruit. At the very least, it will allow you to collect a theoretical base, but will never replace the basics of mastery - successful practice.
You can develop your skills in coloring for a long time, persistently and... in most cases - to no avail. It is impossible to develop confident skills if there is no experienced mentor nearby who will point out mistakes, explain unclear points, and tell you how best to act in difficult situations.
There is one more stone on the independent path to success: color painting requires real practice. It’s good if among your friends there are people who are ready to become victims of experiments - you can experiment with colors, shades, and coloring techniques on them. But what if there are no such people? The solution is simple: you need to go to a specialized educational institution and undergo not only training, but also practice.
The international center “Diva” regularly conducts color courses, including its basics. A small number of students are recruited into study groups so that the teacher can work closely with each individual. Mentors - qualified colorists with extensive experience - willingly share their knowledge and skills with students, both in theory and in practice. By the way, the latter is allocated more than 80% of the total training time, and the center itself provides equipment and models for practicing skills.
According to the results of surveys of diplomats from the Diva training center, the color basics course is useful not only for beginners, but also for experienced hairdressers, as well as for those who prefer to change their appearance on their own without going to a beauty salon.
Heading H1: Basics of color for beginner hairdressers
Color basics for beginner hairdressers. 1. There are three basic colors that form the basis of natural hair color. This is no accident. In nature, the spectrum of colors is decomposed precisely according to the same principle. Blue, red, yellow. An equal combination of them creates a base or one level of natural hair color, but in practice we see just brown-gray or, as the masters call it, “dirt.” White light consists of an equal combination of all colors and all shades.min1Rastiajka66 2. The level of color or lightness of hair in color scheme varies from 1 - black, to 10 - very light blonde. Only the percentage of these three basic colors in the pigment inside the hair changes, which determines the natural color of the hair. So hair of levels 10-8 contains only yellow pigment (8 is the most saturated). The yellow pigment is the smallest in size, it is located deeper than all the pigments inside the hair, therefore it is the most difficult to remove from the hair. Rastiajka11 From 7 to 4 the combination of yellow and red pigments varies (in 4 there is practically no yellow, but the majority of red and the presence of blue begins, which causes a brown tint). And when we rise from level 3 to level 1, we have an increase in the content of blue pigment in combination with red. There is simply no yellow in their background anymore. 3. In this note, I do not consider the pigment content depending on the thickness of the hair and the race of the person. Generalized data will only help the hairdresser understand the processes that occur when dyeing hair. At the border of primary colors, when mixing them, we obtain derivative colors - secondary ones. Yellow + red = orange. Red + blue = purple. Blue + yellow = green. Rastiajka22 If we draw a diagonal in a circle, we get a countercolor. So red can be drowned out by green. Yellow is drowned out by purple. Blue is drowned out by orange. And vice versa. We remember that “dirt” or natural color necessarily includes 3 colors - red, blue, yellow. This is how we calculate the neutralization of unwanted shades. For example, yellow is neutralized by violet because the latter is made up of red and blue. Is the algorithm clear? Rastiajka33 At the border of primary and secondary colors we get tertiary colors or shades, nuances (plum, eggplant, olive, tobacco, wet sand, warm red, cold red, red gold or red copper). An interesting fact is that beautiful platinum is obtained from a combination of cool purple and beige shades. We correct the “swamp” blonde with red hair. And we remove unwanted redness with “tobacco”. If we need to tint a blonde with completely bleached hair (hairdressers joke that the lightness level is 12+), remember that the hair must make up for the amount of pigment (often, without prepigmentation, the color “fails”), and then imagine the desired shade as the main color, diluted “ milk." So often they cannot get pink on hair where there are remnants of yellow (they get red). Rastiajka44 Pink comes from red on white! Violet will always give lilac on white hair.. If there are remnants of yellow in the hair, then lilac will simply neutralize it and you will get platinum. REMEMBER: RED + YELLOW + BLUE = BASE. Those. Where these three primary colors meet, you get a darkening and a one-level rise. Take this fact into account when selecting an oxidizing agent. All hair dyes have numbers written on them. The first talks about the level of lordship. The second is the main color of the paint in the tube - usually 75% in content. The third is a shade or nuance, usually 25% of the composition. For example, in Italian paints 8.43 indicates that this is a level 8 paint of a red color with a golden tint. As a rule, natural shades are designated 0. Enhanced natural pigment for covering gray hair is designated 00 after the dot (9.00).
April 18th, 2014
it turned out so funny today. I’m sitting doing business, looking at Skype with the other eye. A friend wondered about the correct coloring, and is trying to solve pressing problems from the series with me - I want something like this, but I don’t know what. And I have a principle - first formulate what you want, then I will answer. That’s why I don’t get involved in throwing around, I nod from time to time and throw up new questions. We have finally reached a certain point, we are figuring out the current color and what paint to choose - i.e. already look at the shades. That means I should look at the links with girls on the boxes, and she should choose these girls. In the end, I couldn’t stand it, I grumbled - I won’t talk about girls, let’s look for a decoding of the paint coding. I don’t even remember it by heart. My friend searched and searched. He says, look, I found a post and a link here on LJ. And I already see at the link address that it’s my post. I was surprised, but kept quiet. Gru - where did you find this post? but nowhere, he says, Yandex issued it. It was nice for me. uh...
I will tell you how to predict shades when dyeing
In the previous parts of the saga, we found out that if there is no Master at hand, and only felt-tip pens are confused, you need to approach the choice of paint for home experiments with feeling, sense and arrangement. Find out your current lightness level (tone depth level) and figure out where you want to go
- give a shade without changing the depth (not darker, not lighter, just a shade),
- lighten and add tint
- or “darken” and also give a tint
After this we can select the "paint type". In order to become lighter, we can only choose ammonia paint. If we don’t really need it, we can easily get by with ammonia-free paint and either tint (maybe not even with paint as such) the current level of tone depth (color) to the desired shade, or “darken” it too to the desired shade.
Well, let's look at the shades first.
That’s when I was cursing that manufacturers of household paints don’t put any information in their help books. I didn’t do it in vain. Shades cannot flow chaotically from one to another at the behest of the heart. Color, any color, not only in hair, obeys general laws. General laws were deduced by Goethe and he created the color wheel. Then it was trimmed and modernized for their needs by Itten and Oswald and maybe Ivan Ivanovich Ivanov, but history is silent about the latter. But the color circles of other authors are used very successfully in the world for different color combinations, mainly.
Coloristics also loves combinations, but it still cannot escape the physics of color. and colorists really use this layout of the classic color wheel
Let me emphasize that there is nothing new in this oval circle. This is a classic color spectrum, where the three primary colors - yellow, blue and red - are closed in a circle through “transitional colors”. First I’ll tell you, then I’ll come back to this circle.
What does this circle show us?
- firstly, they are marked here numbers with a slash are pigments. These are the ones in the paint code after the dot. 5.33 - golden pigment at the 5th level of coloring. 3.55 - rich red dark (some kind of bloody sunset or crimson would be quite suitable for describing such a code).
The encoding numbers, as we remember, may vary from one manufacturer to another, I even discussed how to navigate with a specific manufacturer. So, if in a book tip you see a color wheel, numbers and pigment designations, this is your most important hint on how to choose the color direction.
maybe like this 
or any other way. The main thing is that there is a color wheel and digital or letter designations of the main pigments, which will determine the direction of the color (shade) when dyeing.
Secondly, the color wheel divides primary and transition colors into two parts
yellow-orange-red - warm
purple-blue-green - cold
Thirdly, such a color wheel shows us possible movements with color.
An arrow moves around a large circle in a clockwise direction. 
from yellow to orange, then red, purple, etc. Between them there are still pontaykans swallowtail, beige, ash - additional pigments
So you can easily walk between shades along the color wheel in a clockwise direction. be especially careful when transitioning between warm and cold.
Now you are a golden blonde and you want to dye your hair copper, look at the arrow - you’re right next to each other, it’s coming. Or in red from gold or in swallowtail - please. We add the desired pigment to our golden color - red, copper - we get what we wanted with a high degree of probability.
and now you have a swallowtail, but you want a copper one. We looked around and the shades seemed to be nearby, but until then we would be moving next to each other counterclockwise. And if you go clockwise, then you can go around the whole circle. We won’t be able to add yellow and immediately turn golden. Those. If you add copper pigment to the current swallowtail, then the figurines will immediately become copper. Colors don't transfer like that. First, the swallowtail must be limed, and then the copper must be applied to the limed base.
It’s the same with cold ones, it’s just that the colors are not named so expressively and are not so visualized in life.
And it was all about that situation when you chose a paint of your lightness level (depth of tone), but want to change the shade. It's easy to go from golden to copper. It is not possible to turn copper into gold by adding gold pigment. You need to take another paint, remove the copper pigment, add gold.
if you initially wanted to lighten and add new things. And you remember about unwanted shades of lightening. And you thought that it would definitely crawl out of you. We look at the color wheel again and remember that neutralizing colors, correctors, and mixtones are opposite each other.
mixton is a designation for the purest pigment. It can act as a dye and as a neutralizer (corrector)
As a dye in its pure form, it is such a vigorous, saturated color. In coloring, in different creative color stains. crimson hair, blue, etc. The manufacturer of paints in various ready-made versions has already mixed different mixtones for us, received a certain color direction (shade) and indicated it on the box with a letter or number.
as a corrector you should use these colors from the color wheel, which are opposite each other
The most common problem with home coloring is the appearance of various unwanted shades. As we remember, the good Master will take this into account when painting and immediately add a mixton. The master marker will blame the quality of the paint, the client’s hormonal surges, bad water and anything else. However, a color neutralizer can also be used after dyeing. Let's say you took paint for self-coloring, did not calculate it, yellow came out - we run to the store in a cap and buy purple colored shampoo. That's right, friends, shampoo! not a balm, not a tonic, not a tinting dye, but a shampoo of a thick, beautiful color)
They are not only purple, because there are more unwanted shades. And there are blue ones and red ones to neutralize the greens.
The peculiarity of the shampoo is that it is not a dye; it lasts for 2-3 washes and gradually fades away.
Ash blondes keep these blue-violet shampoos on their shelves to maintain color.
in general, shampoo will not solve major problems with coloring, of course, you should not place serious hopes on it, but it will help to maintain some more or less intelligible color until the next coloring, wait until the hair has moved away from strong oxidants.
Well, colored shampoos can be used in concentrated form to temporarily add color before Halloween. everything will be washed away. (here the shampoo will act not as a corrector, but as a dye)
but, I repeat, even so I REPEAT! I'm talking about SHAMPOO! not about tonic, not about balm, not about temporary washable paints.
_______________
in the color coding in numbers, the color direction and mixing of mixtones are indicated in numbers. Paint *.10 and paint *.01 are two different colors. Not radically, of course, but different.
*.10 main pigment blue (light brown)
*. 01 - the main pigment is natural, and a little blue is added.
in the situation with *.10, the blue pigment acts as a dye. In the situation with *.01 - as a corrector for an undesirable shade (in this case, orange).
Those. if you want to get a light brown shade, then you need to choose a paint numbered *10. And if you understand that when lightening, you will have red hair, you need to take *.01.
BUT! all this is beautiful, although a little confusing, works with professional paints and with a Master who not only understands colorimetry, but also knows what dyes he is working with.
with household paints, knowing all this science, we can at least somehow predict the result, but it still remains optional.
True, there is also a positive side to the coin. If you delve into colorimetry, apply all your knowledge when choosing paint, and then nothing comes of it, then you can at least understand how to fix it with small sacrifices (neutralize) or correct your logic and with further experiments get a more predictable result.
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As promised, I’m returning to the circle.
This is a regular color wheel.
Those. if you see a circle like this 
or any other (such circles can be obtained from construction stores that mix paints for painting work. Or from artists)
So all these circles do not differ in the set of colors. Everywhere yellow turns to green, then to blue, then to red, to orange and again to yellow.
The peculiarity is this.
if we go clockwise in the circle from the hardware store, as the color layout and arrows around tell us, then red will turn into yellow, yellow through green into blue. And if we go counterclockwise, then red will turn into blue, then through green into yellow.
again and carefully 
COUNTERCLOCK-WISE
yellow - orange - red - purple - blue - green - yellow
CLOCKWISE
yellow - green - blue - purple - red - orange - yellow
color circles are built like this
the arrows go clockwise, but from yellow we go to red, etc.
those. unlike the hardware store circle, which goes clockwise from yellow to green.
from the point of view of the theory of color and all spectra, a circle is like a circle, but the movements around the circle are different.
we need to remember that If the paint store didn’t give you a color wheel, but you have a classic one in your purse or phone, then in the classic one we move counterclockwise. And this is a very important note.
There is no need to remember who goes where in what state. Use visualization.
if you take yellow and red gouache and start mixing it, add a lot, a lot of red to the yellow and you will eventually kill the yellow completely and get a red color. Those. It is easy to make red from yellow by adding a lot of red.
What if you want to turn red into yellow? If you add a lot, a lot of yellow, then nothing will come of it, and so red and orange will slip through, you won’t be able to get a pure yellow color.
If you understand better with other colors, draw an analogy yourself. When we look at the color wheel, we choose two pure colors side by side and from one we can get another pure one, which means we apply it to hair. We walk along this circle in a given direction clockwise or counterclockwise.
It's clear? or even more confused?
Hairdressing art.
So, today we will talk about such a concept as colorism.
What it is?
What is colorism? In general, in a broad sense, coloristics is the science of color. She studies the nature and interaction of colors, their compatibility, harmony. Shades play an important role in a person’s image. It turns out that there are even special color centers that help people choose colors that match their type of appearance
. Currently, color is no less important for hairdressers. The theory of the scientist Johannes Itten became the basis for this technique. According to this theory, all people can be divided into four color types corresponding to the seasons.
Color harmony.
It is on the play of color and its shades that coloristics for hairdressers is built. The theory of color separation of the German scientist Art. Ostwald only confirmed the diversity of the basic characteristics of color. In order to learn how to combine colors correctly, the so-called color wheel was invented. It is usually divided into four equal parts. Each part will contain harmonious colors. The entire palette of colors can be divided into warm (red, yellow, orange) and cold (blue, cyan, green, purple. Also, colors are divided into primary and secondary. Primary are those that cannot be obtained by mixing. These include only three colors - yellow, red and blue. Secondary colors are those that can be obtained by mixing primary colors. In order to understand how to combine colors correctly, we need to refer to the color wheel. We need to fit a triangle with equal sides into it. triangle, and will be harmonious.
Colors for hairdressers: theory. Hairdressing art.
In hairdressing, the wonderful properties of colors to mix, complementing or changing each other, are used quite often. For example, when you need to get rid of unwanted yellowness when blondening.
A little bit of history.
People have strived to make their image brighter since ancient times. They dyed their hair with blood and herbal decoctions, oils, limestone - they came up with sophisticated methods. The most popular natural hair dye of the time was henna, which is still used today. Interestingly, not only women, but also men dyed their hair.
In the Middle Ages, according to church laws, dyeing your hair a different color was equivalent to committing a sin. Girls with red hair were called witches and burned at the stake. Violating church principles, women continued to dye their hair.
Over time, people began to come up with more humane methods of hair coloring. They realized that it was better to turn to chemistry than to use the organs and blood of innocent animals. Well-known brands of our time - L'Oreal, Schwarzkopf, Londa - have entered the world stage.
Types of coloring.
A wide range of colors allows us to experiment with hair. Thus, if previously hair was simply dyed in one tone, now there are many more options. What hair coloring techniques exist today? - Ombre. Recently, this technique has become incredibly popular among both teenagers and adult women. The technique involves a smooth transition of color from dark roots to light ends. This coloring is universal, because it suits brunettes, blondes, and redheads. - Blonding. Hair is dyed different blonde colors. This technique is suitable even for brunettes, although you will have to work hard to achieve the desired result. - Highlighting. A traditional dyeing technique that was popular first in the West, and then conquered Russia, namely its female half. Highlighting creates the effect of sun-bleached hair, just like the shatush technique.
Let's talk about the nuances.
In order for the client to be satisfied with the result, it is necessary to take into account some nuances: - before dyeing, study the structure of the scalp and hair.
- You must definitely enter into psychological contact with the client. Find out his requirements and consider whether the real opportunity meets them.
- Use only high-quality paint, do not skimp on your customers.
- Now regarding the color wheel. Remember that the transition from one shade to another is carried out, attention, only in a clockwise direction.
Colors for hairdressers: theory. Hairdressing art.
The main thing is not to make a mistake.
Coloring for hairdressers prohibits making mistakes. Theory and practice are inseparable concepts. Therefore, the master must pay attention not only to the theoretical part, but also to the practical one. But the master is not always to blame. So, he certainly bears the blame for the result. But your hair may simply not respond to the dye. Therefore, the main task of a hairdresser - colorist is to study the structure of your hair and select the right ingredients. You can sign up for color lessons for hairdressers. By visiting them, you will learn a lot of new and useful information. In order to prevent unsatisfactory results and consolidate the skill, we came up with color tasks for hairdressers. Their point is to calculate the required amount of dyes to obtain a certain result. Therefore, like any other technique, coloring for hairdressers is theory and practice.
Colors for hairdressers: theory. Hairdressing art.
In any business, skill comes with time. Coloring for new hairdressers can be quite difficult to master. But don’t despair and give up if something doesn’t work out for you. In order to master this technique, you can enroll in color training courses for hairdressers, attend various trainings and lessons.
Every hairdresser should know the basics of color in order to avoid unsatisfactory results. Hair coloring is a serious process, and basic knowledge about color, its shades and combinations will help you satisfy your clients' needs and please them with high-quality work and excellent results.
What do you know about hair coloring?
Hair has always been and remains one of the key factors influencing a person’s appearance. That is why the correct selection of hair color is one of the most difficult tasks for a hair stylist. First of all, the hair color should ideally match the person’s color type, so the stylist needs to predict the future result as much as possible. In addition, with professional coloring, there is often a need to mix different shades with each other to obtain one color or another, or to harmoniously combine several different colors in one hairstyle. And in some cases it is necessary to switch from one color to another, neutralize an unsuccessful hair color or dim the brightness. In all cases, the color wheel comes to the rescue.
What is important to understand when using the color wheel in hair coloring?
By mixing 3 primary colors in equal proportions, an achromatic or, in other words, neutral color is obtained. In theory, these are different shades of black and gray, depending on the color saturation. But in color scheme, an ox? Achromatic is a natural color. So, knowing this technique, you can neutralize the unwanted shade of your hair or return to your natural color.
Mixing primary colors.
1. The process of mixing opposite colors also produces a neutral color. But it is important to note that in practice, mixing colors does not always occur in equal proportions for each color.
Mixing opposite colors with the same saturation.
Mixing opposite colors with different saturations.
The transition from one color to another is done only clockwise. The figure clearly shows that you can go from golden to copper, from copper to red, etc. You cannot go counterclockwise to other shades.
Mixing colors in color schemes.
Color mixing is done clockwise.
Color saturation must be taken into account in the hair coloring process. Moreover, both the saturation of the original hair color and the saturation of the color that is applied to it. The saturation of these two colors should match as much as possible, otherwise you can get an unwanted color or intensify it even more.
Gradation of colors by saturation.
Knowing these simple rules, even without being a professional stylist, you can not only choose the right hair color, but also predict the color obtained during the dyeing process.
As for mixing several colors in one hairstyle, it can be noted that color schemes in color are applicable in the same way as in other areas. I'm a hairdresser hairdresser article@Gazetap.
When choosing cosmetics, the theory suggests remembering key concepts: 
- the tone always matches the true color;
- intensity determines how light or dark a color is, its basis is the amount of light illuminating the object;
- Saturation controls the level of color frequency.
The color wheel is characterized by monochrome colors with one leading color and polychrome colors combined from different colors. To achieve white, you need to combine all the colors, but black will be achieved if they are completely absent.
Colorism when choosing the right makeup palette implies an individual approach for each woman. You should take into account the tone of the iris, skin tone, and hair.
It is also necessary to pay attention to contrast, taking into account the differences between the color of the curls and the skin of the face, the iris and the white of the eyes.
No less important is the tone of the lips and their brightness. When choosing a range, the colors of the wardrobe elements are taken into account.
The main principle of the color wheel is opposition. It is expressed in a clear comparison of two complementary tones that reinforce each other. To enhance the color of the shell, you should find the color that matches it and pay attention to the one that is opposite on the color wheel. This approach will also add expressiveness to the look.
For example, you can take dark brown eyes. It is difficult to determine the contrast in this case, since for black the opposite is white. To solve the problem, it is necessary to use not the contrasting principle, but the lighting principle. It is worth paying attention to the following combinations that the color wheel offers:
- Ivory;
- pastel yellow gold;
- golden beige;
- mother of pearl with pink pollination.
For those with light blue eyes with a warm skin tone, you can enhance the richness of the blue by using shades of peach or coral. If your skin is cool-toned, you should choose beige-brown. The combination of colors from a related series will add softness and calmness to the image.
If you use only cool colors in your makeup, then, although it will create the effect of airiness and calm, it will at the same time look lifeless. Shadows with a shimmering effect applied to the inner corners of the eyes will help balance it out. Heavy and irritating makeup will work if the young lady has hazel-brown eyes and uses warm-colored shadows. In this case, it is necessary to dilute the makeup with cold shades of the color wheel. This could be a muted blue or green on the lower eyelid.
All about color in hairdressing. Colorism in the art of hairdressing
Any profession requires a certain amount of experience and knowledge of your business from A to Z. But skill is not born out of nowhere. Any aspiring stylist should make every effort to fully master their profession. It is important not to stop there: study the relevant literature, review video, take lessons from more professional colleagues, and so on.
The hairdresser has a great responsibility for his client so that he likes the result completely. In this work, it is important not only to know all the technical aspects, but also to be able to correctly apply them in practice. So, let’s dwell on such a science as coloristics.
In itself, the concept of color implies a harmonious combination of different colors. By playing with color shades on your hair, you can change any look beyond recognition.
Today, dyeing hair in a monochromatic color scheme has become less relevant. Hairstyles with a combination of several colors have become trendy. However, it is not so easy to choose several color shades correctly. This requires experience, knowledge and a flair for the final result.
Theoretically, all people are conventionally divided into four color schemes - according to the seasons. This is what you should start from when dyeing your hair.
This is colorism.
Coloristics is the science of color. After studying it, you will understand why we see this or that color, what emotions it evokes. Color can stimulate action, cause anxiety, or, conversely, calm. With the help of color, we can emphasize important information, or, conversely, make unimportant information less noticeable.
Color has a strong influence on people's emotions. Therefore, when choosing a particular color, it is necessary to take into account the peculiarities of the psychology of its perception. Each person can react to certain colors in their own way, but there are also general emotional responses that must be taken into account when designing websites, outdoor advertising, interiors, etc.
In addition to choosing a color, it is also necessary to take into account the problems of combining certain colors. Color combinations can be either complementary or contrasting. By choosing the right color combination, you can set a person up for relaxation, or vice versa, intensify his attention.
Color types of appearance and coloristics are interconnected. It was the study of the characteristics of colors and human perception that led to an understanding of why certain shades suit some people and not others. Classification of colors into pure and muted (with a gray undertone), warm (with a red or yellow undertone) and cold (with white and blue), achromatic (white and black), contrasting helps not only to determine the color types of appearance, but also to choose the right clothes shade. After all, it’s not easy for everyone to immediately understand what tone a spotted red jacket is – warm or cold. Having figured out what exactly this shade gives, it will be much easier to cope with the choice of the desired color.
And how can you determine your color type of appearance without understanding what “skin with a cool undertone” means and whether your hair shade is warm enough? You need to look long and carefully at palettes, examples of different colors, study their compatibility - in general, immerse yourself in color. Then an understanding of the basic principles of color typing will come faster and it will be easier to choose the dominant feature of appearance. In theory, 12 color types are the most difficult thing. You need to carefully match the color of your eyes, hair and skin with the description. It also doesn’t hurt to study the color types of appearance in the photo. Only if all the signs coincide can we say that the appearance is determined by one or another pair of signs.
For example, if the eyes are dark - brown, black, blue, the hair is also naturally dark in color - from blue black to dark chestnut, then most likely it is deep winter (there are many bright representatives of this type among Asians) or deep autumn. An additional characteristic that distinguishes them is a warm or cool shade. In late autumn there will be a hint of red in rather dark hair, and the skin tone will be warm and peachy. Deep winter - cold undertones of often pale skin, hair and eyes - without going into golden shades. A skin tone test will help determine the color type of your appearance. It is very simple: you need to carefully examine the inside of your wrist. Greenish veins indicate a warm undertone, bluish veins indicate a cool undertone. Another hint: if a woman looks better at gold than silver, it means she has a warm skin tone - and vice versa.
Video Lesson 1. Coloring for hairdressers. Color Basics
The basics of color in hair coloring begin with color theory. According to it, there are three main (primary) colors in nature, based on the physiology of vision and human psychology:
- the combination of red and yellow gives orange;
- combining blue and yellow produces green;
- and yellow and blue are purple.
- yellow-orange;
- red-orange;
- red-violet;
- blue-violet;
- blue-green;
- yellow-green.
These concepts are the basis of coloristics. Mixing primary, secondary and tertiary colors can produce completely different results. Such shades are called complex, and there are a huge number of them.
Coloristics is a science that studies the nature of colors and shades, the order of their mixing and harmony. For a successful style, it is not enough to perform a high-quality haircut and styling. If the client wants to radically change himself, hair coloring and sometimes even highlighting will be required. A professional providing these services must be able to immediately determine whether the chosen tone is suitable for a particular person, whether it will be in harmony with his face and image. It is precisely to hone these skills that you need to know the basics of color.
How to learn to combine tones harmoniously
If you remember, the formation of different colors directly depends on the refraction of a ray of light. The scientist Isaac Newton first described this process, calling it the phenomenon of dispersion. This means that without solid guidelines it is impossible to learn how to beautifully mix tones, relying on chance. Of course, each client is an individual and requires a sensitive approach. However, just as it is impossible to break the law of gravity, it is impossible to be charming without following the basic principles of color combinations.
The millions of shades that the human eye can perceive are the result of a combination of several colors in different proportions. The main colors for the formation of the entire gamut are:
- yellow;
- red;
- blue.
The theory of color separation, formed by the scientist Ostwald, still helps hairdressers to correctly select the color scheme of hair, as well as effectively deal with unwanted shades after highlighting or bleaching hair. The color wheel, compiled according to the principles of this theory, indicates the following factors:
- colors located next to each other at the head of the triangle will always combine well with each other;
- to get rid of an undesirable shade resulting from lightening, you need to influence the hair with a tone that is clearly opposite the unwanted one.
For example, if, after highlighting, you discover a yellowing effect, you can quickly deal with it by applying a mixton of the color that is opposite yellow. If you pay attention to the color wheel, you will see that the color purple is located there. Practice proves that the principles embedded in this theory always work flawlessly on hair of all types. Instead of trying to achieve success through trial and error, it is better to take advantage of the knowledge and skills of professionals and academic researchers.
Classification of color levels
The division of all color shades into three main ones is not accidental. Even human hair contains these three basic colors. Depending on the saturation of the hair, only the amount of a certain pigment inside it differs.
All color levels are distributed from 1 to 10, where 1 is black and 10 is the lightest blonde. How is the arrangement of pigments distributed in this gradation:
- in tones 1-3 blue predominates with small inclusions of red. This mixing produces dark brown and chestnut tones. The yellow pigment is invisible;
- tones 4-7 contain more red pigment. Yellow and blue pigments are contained in such hair only in small quantities, which determines the versatility of shades in this range;
- from levels 8-10, exclusively yellow pigment predominates.
Interestingly, yellow pigments are the smallest in size and located deepest in the hair. It is because of this that when highlighting or dyeing a light color, yellowness often occurs, which the hairdresser must fight.
Color design requires some experience. If you've never worked with professional dyes at home before, it's best to put aside the complicated mixing process and practice with simple colors. But even if you have been doing coloring yourself for a long time, you should approach the process with caution.
Mixing colors is not always acceptable.
Do not mix paints from different series. The fact is that different dyes do not have the same mechanism of action and therefore the final result cannot be predicted. It is better to always take products from the same series - they are guaranteed to be compatible.
It's better not to experiment with ready-made tones. For each series of Estelle paints there is a table of colors that are basic. These can be shades of brown, black or light brown. They can be corrected using colored pigments, but not mixed with each other.
Don't mix tones unless you can imagine the result. There are many ready-made schemes that provide a guaranteed effect.
How to choose paint colors to mix?
To correct the tone, color pigments are added to the composition. They usually have unusual colors: red, blue, purple and others. The fact is that such radical shades interrupt their opposite colors.
To get rid of reddishness, you need to add blue pigment to the coloring mixture.
The copper shimmer will disappear with the addition of green paint.
Unwanted yellowness in blondes will be covered by purple dye.
If you want the color to be warmer, you should add yellow or orange pigment.
The more corrector you add to the coloring mixture, the more it will affect the result. For example, to get a cold ashy color, you need to add violet and blue pigments to the dye, and the brighter the original redness of the hair, the more of them should be in the composition.
To 60 grams of base paint you need to add 4 grams of corrector to dilute the color. If you want to get an interesting tint, for example, a blue shine on dark hair, the amount of corrector increases to 10 grams.
Ready-made schemes for preparing paint with a corrector can be taken from the Estelle table. To find the necessary products in the store, rely on the numbers in the paint catalog and tubes.
Add oxygen
After mixing the main paints, they are diluted with oxygen and activating capsules are added. Oxygen is needed to lighten hair, which guarantees even coloring.
Understanding what kind of oxygen you need is quite simple: the higher its percentage, the more it will lighten your hair.
Remember, since coloring always starts from the roots, they will be lightened 2-3 shades more than the rest of the hair length.
Plan B: if something goes wrong
If, as a result of mixing paints, you do not get the effect you expected, under no circumstances should you panic and grab the clarifier. You will damage your hair more and end up with a dirty color. It is better to contact a professional to correct the tone - he will be able to explain to you the mistakes in preparing the mixture and return your hair to its natural color. All you have to do is organize comprehensive care that will support their health.
Listen to the master’s answers to your questions to avoid mistakes the next time you try on your own.
Do you dye your hair yourself or go to a professional? What paint do you prefer to use? Have you tried mixing paints yourself? Please share feedback on your results and tips for successful blending!