A simple step-by-step construction of a pattern for women's trousers is a great start for those who dream of sewing them perfectly! The basic pattern that we offer you is the basis on which you can model any trouser item - capris, jeans, low-waisted, elasticated and even maternity pants! In order for the products to have a good fit, you need to take all the necessary measurements as accurately as possible.
To create a basic pattern you will need the following measurements:
Waist circumference (FR)
Hip circumference (H)
Knee circumference (OK)
Bottom width (ShN)
Side seam length (DB)
Seat height (from the waist to the subgluteal fold) (BC)
Knee height (VK)
Step length (LS) (along the inside of the leg from the groin to the floor) or DB-VS
IMPORTANT! The step length measurement can also be calculated using the formula: Side seam length minus Seat height.
Calculation values required for creating a pattern:
Width of the front half of the trousers (Shppb) (1/4 OB minus 1 cm)
Width of the back half of the trousers (Шзпб) (1/4 OB plus 1 cm plus 0-1 cm for loose fit)
ADVICE! To take accurate measurements, measurements should be taken with the tape tightly wrapped around the body, preferably while wearing underwear. The waist circumference is measured at the thinnest part of the body, the hip circumference is measured at the protruding points of the buttocks, taking into account all the bulges (the “breeches” area), the maximum volume of the hips. The length of the trousers is measured along the side from the waist line to the floor. The seat height is measured while sitting on a chair - from the waist line, a centimeter tape is lowered strictly vertically to the surface of the seat.
Waist circumference (OT) - 72 cm 36 18
Hip circumference (H) - 98 cm 49 24.5
Bottom width (ШН) - 42 cm 21 10.5
Side length (DB) - 106 cm
Seat height (BC) - 25.5 cm
Knee height (VK) - 56 cm
Step length (LW) - 80.5 cm
Width of the front half of the trousers (Shppb: 1/4 OB minus 1 cm) - 23.5 cm
The width of the back half of the trousers (Wzspb: 1/4 OB +1 cm + 0-1 cm increase in freedom of fit) - 25.5 cm
¼ Шзпб=25.5:4=6.4 cm
Construction of the front half of the trousers
Rice. 1 Constructing a pattern for the front half of the trousers
We start constructing the pattern from the front half. In the upper left corner, stepping back some distance from the edge, place point A.
Draw vertical and horizontal lines. From point A to the right, set aside the width of the front half of the trousers: AA1 = 23.5 cm (calculated width of the front half of the trousers).
From point A down a vertical line, set AB = 25.5 cm (seat height according to measurement).
AK = 56 cm (Knee height as measured).
AN = 106 cm (Pants length on the side).
BB1 = 7.9 cm (1/10 Half hip circumference according to measurement + 3 cm).
Draw horizontal lines from points B1, B, K, H1.
From point A1, lower the perpendicular down to the horizontal line drawn earlier from point B. Points B2 and C are obtained.
В2В3 = 5.9 cm - The step width of the front half is calculated by the formula: 1/10 of the half-circumference of the hips according to the measurement plus 0.5 - 1 cm. (Note: for tight-fitting trousers the increase is 0-0.5 cm, for standard ones - 0.5-1 cm, for loose wide ones - 1-2 cm).
Divide segment B1B3 in half to obtain point B4. НН1=В1В4. The arrow line of the front half is drawn through points B4 and H1 to the waist line, points A2 and H1 are obtained.
From point H1 to the left and right, set aside 1/4 of the width of the bottom of the trousers according to the measurement minus 1 cm: H1H2 = H1H3 = 9.5 cm. Connect points B1H2 and B3H3 with auxiliary straight lines. Points B0, C1, K2, K3 were obtained.
From point B2 to the right, set aside 0.5 cm. CC2 = 1/2 CC1. Connect the points C1C2 with a straight line.
A1A3 = 0.5-1 cm. Draw an auxiliary line from point A3 through point 0.5 to line C1C2. Draw a bow line for the front half, from point A3, through the auxiliary point 0.5 in a straight line, then along the pattern to point C1.
Calculation of the dart of the front half of the trousers
Set aside from point A3 the segment A3A4 = 1/4 FROM plus 1.5 - 2.5 cm for the dart plus 0-0.5 cm for the fit. Shape the waist line of the front half of the trousers according to the pattern, raising the side line from point A4 up 0.5 cm.
Location of the front half dart. Divide the distance between points A2 and 0.5 in half. Draw a perpendicular line to the hip line. Draw a dart 9-10 cm long and 1.5 - 2.5 cm deep, moving the end of the dart to the left 0.5 cm, as shown in the drawing.
Depending on the model, narrow the trousers at the knee by 0.5-1 cm, drawing a concave line.
ADVICE! It is easier to process hem allowances for trousers if the side and step lines are perpendicular to the hem line, at least by the width of the hem allowance. Therefore, draw the lines of the side and step seams downwards at a right angle, retreating 0.5 cm from points H2 and H3 to the left and right.
Constructing the back half of the trousers
Rice. 2. Constructing a pattern for the back half of the trousers
The construction of the back halves of the trousers is made on the basis of the drawing of the front half.
From point B4, set aside 1 cm to the right: B4B5 = 1 cm (arrow of the rear half). Connect points B5 and K1 with a dotted line.
From point B5, set aside 6.4 cm to the right: B5B6 = 6.4 cm (1/4 of the width of the back half of the trousers).
From point B0, set aside 4 cm upward: B0G = 4 cm. (Note: for figures with protruding buttocks this value is 3 cm, for figures with flat buttocks this value is 5-6 cm. For wide trousers, also take 5-6 cm) .
Rice. 3a. Construction of a perpendicular to the segment GV6.
Rice. 3b. Construction of the segment Г1Г2
Connect points G and B6. From point B6, draw a perpendicular to the segment GB6 up and down (Fig. 3a). Continue the line of the waist and hips to the left and right.
Next, you should construct a segment G1G2 with a length of 25.5 cm: G1G2 = 25.5 (calculated width of the back half of the trousers). Draw line G1G2 parallel to line V6G, so that point G2 lies on the line of the hips (Fig. 3b).
ADVICE! Drawing perpendicular and parallel lines, subject to certain conditions along their length, is much easier with the help of a large triangular ruler.
Rice. 4a. Constructing a pattern for the back half of the trousers
Rice. 4b. Constructing a pattern for the back half of the trousers
Measure the distance V5G2 and set aside the same distance from point B5 to the right: V5G2 = V5G3.
The lines of the side and step cuts of the back half of the trousers are drawn parallel at a distance of 2 cm from the lines of the front half of the trousers.
Place 2 cm to the left along the knee line from the side seam of the front half of the trousers - point K4. Also set aside 2 cm from the crotch seam to the right - you get point K5. Connect point K5 and point G3 with a straight line.
Draw a straight line from point K4 through point G2 to the waist line - you have obtained point T.
Waistline of the back half of the trousers. Measure the distance from K1T and from point K1 set aside K1T1 = K1T so that point T1 lies on the straight line from point B6.
Connect points T and T1. From point T1, set aside 0.5 cm to the left: T1T2 = 0.5 cm, connect points T2 and B6 with a straight segment.
Calculation of the dart of the back half of the trousers
T2T3 is equal to 1/4 OT plus 3 cm (for the dart of the back half), plus 0-0.5 cm for the fit.
Transfer the length of the side cut of the back half of the trousers from the front half, while the side line of the back half can rise up slightly above the waist line. Shape the waistline of the back half of the trousers.
Dart in the back half of the trousers. Divide segment T2T3 in half. Perpendicular to the waist line, draw a dart 13 - 14 cm long and 3 cm deep.
K5G4 - the length of the crotch cut of the back half of the trousers is equal to the crotch seam of the front half of the trousers G4K5=C1C3 minus 0 -0.5 cm. The seam of the trousers is drawn slightly concave.
Draw the line of the middle seam of the back half of V6G4 according to the pattern.
Rice. 5. Pattern of the front and back halves of the trousers
Separately transfer the pattern of the front and back halves of the trousers onto tracing paper and proceed to modeling the style.
Greetings to all sewing lovers!
Even about 70 - 80 years ago, humanity was seriously tormented by the question of whether it was decent for women to wear trousers...
Nowadays, trousers are one of the most sought-after items in a woman's wardrobe. And how can a modern woman not wear trousers - it’s so convenient.
Trousers can be bought, and the choice of styles, models, sizes and purposes of different types of trousers is truly huge. You can sew the trousers yourself.
There are, of course, craftsmen who can cut and sew trousers without a pattern. However, the vast majority of sewing enthusiasts still cannot do without a pattern...
To create a pattern for the base of women's trousers, we will take the dimensional characteristics of size 50 (height 164 cm, full group 1, chest volume - 100 cm, waist volume - 78.2 cm, hip volume - 104 cm (taking into account the protrusion of the abdomen)) .
We will need the following measurements of the figure.
Note. A sewing enthusiast who takes up sewing trousers is, so to speak, an advanced user. And he already knows how the waist and hip volumes are measured, as well as the distance from the waist line to the floor from the side and front.
Let me explain what Vps, Vs, Dtk, Gt2 are.
Vps – height of the subgluteal fold. Vertical distance from the floor to the middle of the subgluteal fold.
Sun – seat height. Distance from the waist line to the seat plane. Measured along the side, from the waist line to the horizontal plane of the seat.
Dtk – distance from the waist to the knees. Measured together with the Chipboard measurement - the height from the waist line to the floor in front.
Gt 2 - waist depth second. The horizontal distance is measured from the vertical tangent plane to the most protruding buttock points to the waist line.
Additions are also given to the basic measurements.
Note.
- The first number in each column is for trousers made from thin fabrics, the second for thick ones.
- Increases in the waist and hips may be completely absent, Pt = 0 and Pb = 0. And even go into the minus (for trousers with a very tight fit, sewn from bi-elastic fabrics).
Before you start creating a pattern for the base of the trousers, you need to clearly understand and clearly imagine the model of trousers that will be made. Based on these ideas, the calculations take into account:
- width of finished trousers: at the waist, at the hips, along the knees and at the bottom.
- waist line height. For jeans, the waistline is usually lowered by 2 - 4 cm.
- length trousers.
All these parameters must be linked with each other (according to the model).
Note. When constructing a pattern for the base of women's trousers using any of the methods, certain formulas, digital values and a certain sequence of actions are used. These are the developments of the authors of the method and their “presence” during calculations and when constructing the drawing should be accepted unconditionally.
There are many different ways and methods to construct a trouser base pattern. I offer an option that I use myself.
Construction of the basic mesh for the pattern of the base of women's trousers.
The first step is to build a basic mesh - a kind of skeleton of a trouser pattern.
We build a vertical line down from point T. This is the line that defines the fold lines of both halves of the trousers - back and front.
Note. For a proportional or close to such figure, the trouser pattern is based on half of the figure - the front and back halves. Unlike the straight skirt pattern, the front and back halves of the trouser pattern overlap each other when constructed. Because the back half of the trousers is built taking into account the size of the front half.
The horizontal lines are the lines of the waist, hips, seat height, knee line and bottom line. The intersection of these horizontal lines with the vertical is indicated by points T, B, Z, K, N, respectively.
TY segment
We lay down the segment TY vertically from point T. TY = Sun - (1.0 ... 2.0) = 27.9 - 1.5 = 26.4 cm. We build a horizontal line - the seat line.
YaB segment
We build a horizontal line - the line of the hips.
YB = TY/3 = 26.4/3 = 8.8 cm
Now let's build a vertical that will define the line of the middle of the front.
We find the size of segment BB1 using the formula:
BB1 = 0.15POB + 0.25(Pb + 1.0) +1.4 = 0.15 x 52 + 0.25(2 + 1.0) +1.4 = 7.8 + 0.75 + 1.4 = 9.95 ≈ 10.0 cm.
From point B1 we draw a vertical line until it intersects with the waist line (point T1) and with the seat line (point Y1)
Section T1T2
From point T1 to the right horizontally we lay off the segment T1T2.
We connect point T2 to point B1 and thus determine the position of the mid-front line.
Section T2T3
From point T2 horizontally to the right we lay off the segment T2T3. The line defining the waist line.
T2T3 = (POT + Pt)/2 + 2.0 ... 2.5 (front dart) = 20.05 +2 = 22.05 ≈ 22.1 cm
Section T3T4
From point T3 vertically upward, to the segment T2T3 we build a perpendicular (segment T3T4).
T3T4 = (Dsb - Chipboard) + 0.3 cm = (106 -104.2) + 0.3 = 2.1 cm.
We connect points T2 and T4 and get the waist line of the front half of the trousers.
TY segment
From point T, up vertically we continue the segment TY until it intersects with the segment T2T4.
The point of intersection of the segment T2T4 with the segment TY is designated by point T0.
Section T0H
The position of the bottom line is determined by the segment T0H.
Т0Н = Dizd + Pus = 102 + 1.5 = 103.5 cm
Section T0K
The position of the knee line is determined by the segment T0K.
T0K = Dtk + 1.0 = 58.8 + 1.0 = 59.8 cm.
We draw horizontal lines through points K and H.
On these horizontal lines, to the right and left of points K and H, we plot the following segments:
Section Н2Н1 (НН1 + НН2) – the width of the front half of the trousers at the bottom.
НН1 = НН2 = 0.5(Шн – 2.0)
Section Н4Н3 (НН3 + НН4) – the width of the back half of the trousers at the bottom.
НН3 = НН4 = 0.5(Шн + 2.0)
Section K1K2 (KK1 + KK2) is the width of the front half of the trousers at knee level.
Here KK1 = KK2 = 0.5(Shk – 2)
Section K3K4 (K1K3 + K2K4) – the width of the back half of the trousers at knee level.
The width of the trousers at knee level is determined by the model. It can be greater than the width of the trousers at the bottom (here it is), smaller, the same, but the width of the trousers at the knee level can never be less than the circumference of the leg at the knee Ok + Pk (Ok - knee circumference, Pk - increase for loose fit ).
Section B3B4
Determine the width of the front half of the trousers. To do this, we build the segment B3B4.
The size of the segment B1B3 (part of the segment B3B4) is found by the formula:
B1B3 = 0.3(0.4xPOB - 1.5) = 0.3(0.4x52 - 1.5) = 5.79 ≈ 5.8 cm.
The second part of segment B3B4 - segment BB4 = BB1 + B1B3 = 10 + 5.8 = 15.8 cm
(How the value of segment BB1 is determined, see above in the article).
We connect points B3, K2, H2 and T4, B4, K1, H1 and get lines that define the contours of the front half of the trousers.
Section B5B7
The width of the back half of the trousers is determined by the segment B5B7. Part of the segment B5B7, segment BB5 is found using the formula:
BB5 = 0.5[(1.4xPOB + Pb – 0.5) – B3B4] + 0.5
BB5 = 0.5[(1.4x52 + 2 – 0.5) – 31.6] + 0.5 = 21.85 ≈ 21.9 cm
We find the other part of the segment B5B7 - segment BB7 using the following formula:
BB7 = 0.5[(1.4xPOB + Pb – 0.5) – B3B4] – 0.5
BB7 = 0.5[(1.4x52 + 2 – 0.5) – 31.6] - 0.5 = 20.85 ≈ 20.9 cm
We connect points B5, K4, H4 and B7, K3, H3. We get the lines that define the contours of the back half of the trousers.
So, the basic mesh has been built. Without auxiliary lines and dots it looks like this.
Let's move on to construction
The front half of the trousers.
On the waist line Т2Т4, vertically Т0Н we build a dart.
Dart length 8 - 9 cm. Opening 2 - 2.5 cm.
Here, from point T0, we put 8.5 cm down vertically.
And to the left and to the right from point T0 along the line T2T4, 1 cm.
The T2T4 segment is inclined, so the sides of the dart are not the same. But we will deal with this at the very end of the article, when the pattern is ready (see below in the article).
At the intersection of segment B3K2 with the seat line we place point J2.
We connect points R2 and K2 with a concave curve. (Curvature of the line - according to the model, at will, according to the figure). The main thing is that the bend of this line is smooth, and its curvature naturally turns into the segment K2H2. The segment K2H2, in turn, must remain straight.
We lay a segment on the bisector of angle T1Y1Y2.
Point R3 is an auxiliary point for constructing a smooth curve B1R2. We build it by drawing a line through the points Y2Y3B1.
The smooth curve Ya2Y3B1 is part of the line in the middle of the front of the trousers. Its shape should be linked to the direction of the T2B1 line.
We design the side line of the front part of the trousers, passing through points T4, B4, K1, with curved smooth curves.
The shape of the line - according to the model, at will, according to the figure. The curves of the side lines of the front of the trousers should be natural and smoothly transition into each other.
The pattern for the base of the front half of the trousers is ready!
Constructing the back half of the trouser base pattern.
The first step is to equalize the length of the inseam on the front and back halves of the trouser pattern.
We measure the length of the crotch seam on the front part, this is the curved line H2K2YA2.
And we lay a segment of exactly the same length along the broken line of the crotch seam on the back half of the trousers.
The end of the segment is designated by point R4.
We get the broken line Н4К4Я4.
We draw out the segment Y4K4 with a smooth concave line. The curved segment Y4K4 should smoothly transition into the straight segment K4N4.
To construct the middle line of the back half of the trousers, you need to find the position of point B6.
Section B5B6
B5B6 = 0.7(0.4POB – 1.5) = 13.51 cm
From point B6 we build perpendiculars to the waist line and the seat line.
The points of intersection with these lines are designated T5 and R5.
Section T5T6
On the horizontal from point T5 to the right we lay off the segment T5T6
Section B6T6
We connect points B6 and T6 with a straight line.
This slanted line is the line of the middle of the back half of the trousers.
Points B6 and R4 need to be connected by a smooth curve. It is more convenient to do this using the auxiliary point R6.
Point R6 is located on the bisector of angle B6R5R4.
R5R6 = 3.0 – 3.5 cm. Here 3 cm.
We connect points R4, R5 and B6 with a smooth curve.
The smoothly curved segment Y4Y6B6 should naturally “merge” into the straight segment B6T6.
Section Т0Т7
Up from point T0 we lay off the segment T0T7
Т0Т7 = (Dsp – Vps) – Sun
Т0Т7 = (104.2 – 73.7) – 27.9 = 2.6 cm
We continue segment B6T6 by 5 – 9 centimeters.
Section T7T8
From point T7 we lower the perpendicular to the continuation of the segment B6T6.
The intersection of two lines is designated by point T8
Line Ya4Ya6B6T8 - the line of the middle of the back half of the trousers.
Determine the position of the hip line on the back half of the trousers.
Section B6B8
B6B8 = T6T8 (T6T8 measure). Here it is 4.3 cm.
From point B6, up along the segment B6T8, we set aside (here) 4.3 cm. The end of the segment is designated by point B8.
Section B8B7
We connect points B8 and B7 and get the line of the hips of the back half of the trousers.
Section T8T9
T8T9 = 0.5POT + 3.5 ... 4.0 + 0.5
3.5 ... 4.0 – dart solution on the back half of the trousers.
T8T9 = 0.5x39.1 + 4 + 0.5 = 24.05 cm ≈ 24.1
From point T8, with a radius equal to 24.1 cm, on the continuation of the horizontal line T1T3, we make a notch.
The intersection point is designated by point T9.
We connect points T9 and B7, B7 and K3 with smooth curved curves, which in the end should look like one solid side line of the back half of the trousers. The straight segment K3H3 should become a natural continuation of the curve T9K3.
Section T9T10
Now you should equalize the length of the side lines of the front and back halves of the trousers. We measure the length of curves T4B4K1N1 and T9B7K3N3
Here T4B4K1N1 = 1053 cm, T9B7K3N3 = 1033 cm. The difference is 2 cm.
We put the difference between the curves from point T9 upward on the continuation of the curved line T9B7K3N3 and set point T10.
Section T8T10
We connect points T8 and T10 and get the waist line of the back half of the trousers.
The dart of the back half of the trousers is built in the middle of the segment T8T10, at a perpendicular to it.
From the waist line, perpendicularly downwards, the length of the dart is 12 ... 15 cm. Here it is 13 cm.
This is what a smaller exact copy of the pattern drawing for the base of women's trousers, size 50 (height 164), looks like.
Without auxiliary lines and with the contours of the “picture” outlined, the trouser pattern drawing looks different and almost completely finished.
Separate the front and back halves of the trouser base drawing from each other. (We transfer one of them to a new sheet of paper).
Cut out the parts along the contour. But we are in no hurry to cut out the darts.
broken and, if you like, angular.
Therefore, when cutting out the details of the pattern for the base of the trousers, we leave a certain supply of paper at the waist line of both parts - the front and back halves.
We close the dart, and draw the waist line – a smooth, concave line – again. Along the same line we cut off the excess paper.
We open the tuck and get a new one - the correct, adapted waist line.
The waist line of the front part of the trousers is also drawn again, and also with the dart closed. Here the sides of the dart are not the same, so along with adjusting the waistline, their length must be equalized.
Note. Women with voluminous hips, meaning the circumference of the hips (Lunch) at the top, in the widest part of the leg, when drawing the side lines, should take this measurement into account and if it is necessary to adjust the side lines of both parts - the back and front halves of the trousers, in the direction of increase.
Using the basic pattern of women's trousers, the construction of which is outlined above in the article, you can model and sew an infinite number of trousers. This pattern is ideal for sewing classic trousers.
Good luck to all! Sincerely, Milla Sidelnikova!
Pants are an integral part of a woman's wardrobe. Not surprising, because this is a very comfortable and practical thing that can be worn not only to special occasions or to the office, but also to create a huge number of looks.
In today's article, we'll look at a pattern of classic-style trousers that will suit any figure. They will look equally elegant on both a young girl and a plump elderly woman. Only the latter will need to cover her hips by wearing a long blouse or jacket on top.
As an example, the calculation and construction of a drawing of trousers will be made on a figure with the following:
Loose Fit Distribution (CO)
to measure SB = 1 cm
to measure ST = 1 cm
Constructing a pattern for the front half of classic women's trousers
1. Draw a vertical line with its vertex at point T, from which the following values are plotted down:
Waist line level: TT 1 = 1-1.5 cm (the value depends on the shape of the hips).
Seat depth: TY = BC measurement = 27 cm.
Pants length to the knee line: TK = measurement DtK = 58 cm.
Or YAK = 1/2 ДШ 1 – 1/10 ДШ 1, where
DS 1 = DsB – BC = 104 cm - 27 cm = 77 cm
Pants length: TN = DsB measurement - 2-3 cm (the amount by which in our example the trousers are shortened to the desired length according to the model) = 104 cm - 2 cm = 102 cm.
How to determine the amount by which you need to shorten or lengthen your trousers, see.
Position of the hip line: YB = 1/3 TY = 1/3 27 cm = 9 cm.
Through points T 1, B, Z, K, H, draw horizontal lines to the right.
2. Width of the front half of the trousers at hip level: BB 1 = 1/2 (SB + CO) – 1 cm = 1/2 (50 cm + 1 cm) – 1 cm = 24.5 cm.
3. Draw a vertical through point B 1, at the intersection with the horizontal lines we get points T 2, I 1.
4. Step width of the front half of the trousers: I 1 I 2 = 1/10 (SB + CO) = 1/10 (50 cm + 1 cm) = 5.1 cm.
5. The position of the fold line (“arrow”) is determined by dividing the segment YaYa 2 in half, we get Ya 3, through which draw a vertical line from waist level to the bottom. At the intersection we get points K 1 and H 1.
6. Along the waist line from T 2, set aside a bevel amount equal to 0-1-1.5 cm to the left, depending on the value of the waist circumference (the lower the OT value, the larger the amount set aside) or the shape of the trousers.
T 2 T 3 = 1 cm.
A bevel measuring 0 cm is taken for figures with a belly and for striped or checkered fabrics.
7.Constructing a bow line(middle line): connect B 1 and Z 2 with a straight line, divide the segment in half (point A); connect A and Z 1, divide in half (point A 1).
Draw a line for the bow of the trousers by connecting points T 3, B 1, A 1, Z 2.
8. To calculate the waist darts of trousers, find the difference between the SB and ST measurements, taking into account their freedom of fit. When calculating, you should also take into account the size of the bevel at the waist, if it was provided (in our example, it was 1 cm for the front and back halves of the trousers).
(SB + CO) – (ST + CO) - bevel = (50 cm + 1 cm) – (38 cm + 1 cm) – (1 cm + 1 cm) = 10 cm
10 cm / 2 = 5 cm - the sum of the waist darts of the trousers, which is divided into:
- 1/3 5 cm = 2 cm – waist dart of the front half of the trousers;
- 2/3 5 cm = 3 cm – waist dart of the back half of the trousers.
9. Width of the front half at waist level: T 3 T 4 = 1/2 (ST + CO) + 2 cm dart = 1/2 (38 cm + 1 cm) + 2 cm = 21.5 cm.
10. Side seam extension: T 4 T 5 = T 1 T = 1-1.5 cm.
11. Width of trousers at the bottom: H 1 H 2 = H 1 H 3 = 1/2 WN – 1 cm = 1/2 20 cm – 1 cm = 9 cm.
To make it easier to process the bottom of the trousers with a hem seam, from points H 2 and H 3, draw up perpendiculars 4-8 cm long, we get O and O 1.
12. Connect straight line B and O, at the intersection with the knee line we get a point from which we put 1 cm to the right. Point K 2 is obtained.
Level the width of the front half of the trousers along the knee line (from the fold to the right and left). To do this, from K 1 to the right, set aside the value of the segment K 2 K 1.
K 2 K 1 = K 1 K 3.
Note. The width of the trousers along the knee line is determined by the model; it can be equal to the width of the trousers at the bottom, or it can be more or less, but in any case it should be no less than the girth of the knee, taking into account the increase for a loose fit.
13.Side cut drawn up by connecting points T 5, B, I 4 with a convex smooth line, points I 4, K 2 - with a smooth concave line, which turns into a straight line, descending to point O.
14.Step cut the front half of the trousers is designed from I 2 to K 3 with a smooth concave curve and further to O 1 with a straight line.
15. The bottom line is drawn from point H 2 to H 3 in a smooth curve with a deflection in the middle. H 1 H 6 = 0.5 cm.
The bottom line can also be left horizontal: if the fabric is checkered or striped, for fabrics that are unruly when ironed.
16. The dart of the front half of classic trousers is built on the fold line with a 2 cm gap, 8-9 cm long. The sides of the dart are aligned along the larger side and create a beautiful waist line.
When sewing, the dart can be folded rather than sewn down.
Constructing a pattern for the back half of classic women's trousers
1. Extension at the level of the knee and bottom: K 4 K 2 = K 3 K 5 = 2 cm, H 4 H 2 = H 3 H 5 = 2 cm.
2.Constructing a seat line(middle line): from B 1 to the left, set aside 3 cm (constant value), we get B 2, from which upward restore the perpendicular B 2 B 3 = 1/10 (SB - 1 cm) = 1/10 49 cm = 4.9 cm.
Connect points I 1 and B 3, extend the straight line upward. Measure segment B 1 T 3 on the front of the trousers and set aside its value from point B 3 upwards.
B 3 T 6 = B 1 T 3.
3. Seat line deviation: T 6 T 7 = 1 cm.
4. Width at seat level: I 2 I 5 = I 1 I 2.
5. Auxiliary points: A 1 A 2 = Z 5 Z 6 = 1 cm.
6. The seat line is drawn through points T 7, B 3, A 2, Z 6.
7. From point B 3 to the hip line, make a notch: B 3 B 4 = (SB + CO) – BB 1 = (50 cm + 1 cm) – 24.5 cm = 26.5 cm.
8. To construct the waist line, find point T 8 at the intersection of two arcs:
- the first from point B 4 with a radius equal to the segment BT 5;
- the second from T 7 to the left with a radius equal to 1/2 (ST + CO) + 3 cm dart = 1/2 39 cm + 3 cm = 22.5 cm
Connect points T 7 and T 8 with a straight line.
9. From points H 4 and H 5, draw upward perpendiculars with a length similar to that on the front half of the trousers (4-8 cm), we get O 2 and O 3.
10. Connect B 4, K 4, we get I 7.
Create a side cut through points T 8, B 4, I 7 with a convex smooth line, points I 7, K 4 - with a smooth concave line, which turns into a straight line, descending to point O 2.
11.Step cut form from I 6 to K 5 with a smooth concave curve and further to O 3 with a straight line.
12. The dart of the back half of classic trousers is built in the middle of the segment T 7 T 8, its opening is 3 cm, length 10-13 cm.
13. Draw a horizontal bottom line through points H 4, H 5.
The styles of trousers can be very diverse: classic and sporty; voluminous in the hips and more adjacent; widened towards the bottom and narrowed; with cuffs and without cuffs; with and without different types of pockets; length, which varies from knees to foot level; with slits in the side seams and without slits; with various finishes: braid, lace, lacing and other decorative elements. Trousers are made both with and without lining. A wide variety of fabrics are used for sewing trousers: from guipure to drape.
The starting point for all this abundance is construction of the main drawing of trousers. And already on its basis all the styles that you can imagine are designed.
And here’s something else I would like to remind you: If you think that this is difficult, you will see that you were right. If you think that it is simple, you will again be convinced that you are right. So before you think, think! I wish you courage and self-confidence.
Let's take the first step.
We do not claim to be the author of the methodology for constructing the basic drawing of trousers, but only use it as an example. You can use any other one. It’s even better to try several methods to determine which one is most suitable for you. After all the main thing is to adjust what you get to your individual standard.
To construct a drawing of the base of the trousers, the following measurements and allowances are required (the figures given correspond to size 48:
Waist semicircle (St) = 38cm,
Semi-circle of hips (Sb) = 52cm,
Pants length to the knee (Lk) = 56cm;
Pants side length (Db) = 100cm;
Pants width at the bottom (W) = 24cm;
Increases for a loose fit at the waist (Pt) and hips (Pb) are selected depending on the degree of fit of the trousers: Pt - from 0 to 1.5 cm, Pb - from 0.5 to 4 cm. For our construction, we will take the minimum allowance at the waist, i.e. zero, and at the hips – 1 cm.
Fri = 0cm;
Pb = 1cm;
We also need three control Measurements: knee circumference, ankle circumference and hip circumference.
Construction of a drawing of the front half of the trousers.
We begin the construction of the drawing by drawing two mutually perpendicular lines.
We denote the intersection point as T1.
Seat height.
There are two options for determining the seat height: by taking measurements and by calculation. In our example we use the second option, i.e. Let's determine this value using the formula T1R1 = 0.5 x (Sb + Pb) + 1 cm. Let's substitute the values, we get = 0.5 x (52+ 1)+ 1 = 27.5 cm.
From point T1 downwards vertically set aside 27.5 cm and place point Y1. From point Y1, left and right, draw a horizontal line.
Hip line.
Then everything is similar - the formula, we substitute the corresponding values, we get the desired result. R1B1 = (T1R1): 3 = 27.5: 3 =9.1 cm.
From point Y1 up vertically, set aside 9.1 cm and place point B1. Through point B1 draw a horizontal line to the left and right.
The width of the front half along the hip line.
Formula, values, result. Let's move on.
B1B2 = 0.5 x (Sb + Pb) - 1 = 0.5 x (52+ 1) - 1 = 26.5 - 1 = 25.5 cm.
From point B1 to the right horizontally, set aside 25.5 cm and place point B2. Draw a vertical line up and down through point B2, and mark the intersection points as T2 and R2.
Rice. 2
Step width.
R2R3 = 0.1 x (Sb + Pb) Carefully substitute the values = 0.1 x (52 + 1) = 5.3 cm (see figure below).
From point Y2 to the right horizontally, set aside 5.3 cm and place point Y3.
The position of the fold line.
I1I=I1I3: 2.
Divide the segment Y1Y3 in half and put point Z.
Draw a vertical line through point I up and down, and mark the points of intersection with the auxiliary lines as T and B.
Rice. 3
Knee lines.
Distance TK is equal to the taken measurement Dk = 56 cm.
From point T down along the fold line, set aside 56 cm and place point K. Through point K, draw a horizontal line to the left and right.
Length trousers.
TN = db = 100cm.
From point T down along the fold line, set aside 100 cm and place point H. Through point H, draw a horizontal line to the left and right.
The width of the front half of the trousers along the hem line.
HH1 = HH2 = 0.5 x (Wn - 2) = 0.5 x (24 - 2) = 11cm. From point H to the left and to the right, set aside 11 cm and put points: on the left - H1, on the right - H2.
The width of the trousers at the bottom should not be less than the ankle circumference measurement.
Fig.5
The width of the front half of the trousers at the knee line.
KK1 = KK2 = HH1 = 11cm.
It should be noted that the width of the trousers along the knee line can be greater or less than the width of the trousers along the hemline or be the same, but should not be less than the knee circumference measurement (OK) plus an increase of 2 cm for a loose fit. We take the width of the trousers along the knee line to be equal to the width of the trousers along the hemline. From point K to the left and right horizontally, set aside 11 cm and put points: on the left - K1, on the right - K2.
Auxiliary points for designing the step cut line.
We obtain point R21 by dividing the segment R2R3 in half.
Connect points Y21 and K2 with a straight line, divide this segment in half and connect the division point with a smooth concave line to point Y3.
Draw a step cut line below the division point through points K2 and H2, connecting them with a straight line.
Rice. 6
Design of the “bow” line (the line of the middle cut of the front half).
T2T0 = from 0 to 1 cm;
The distance T2T0 is taken equal to zero for figures with a convex belly, as well as when trousers are supposed to be sewn from fabric with a checkered and striped pattern, although the latter condition is not necessary.
In our example, the distance T2T0 is 1 cm.
From point T2 to the left horizontally, set aside 1 cm and place point T0. Connect points T0 and B2 with a straight line. Connect points B2 and R3 with an auxiliary straight line, divide the segment in half and place point D. Connect point D with a straight line to point R2. Divide the segment DY2 in half and mark the division point as D1. Draw the “bow” line through points T0, B2, D1, Y3 with a smooth line.
Rice. 7
Width at waistline.
Т0Т4 = 0.5 x (St + Fri) + two darts. The width of each dart is 2cm. We take the minimum allowance along the waist line, i.e. equal to zero. We substitute the values into the formula = 0.5x(38 + 0) + 2x2 = 23 cm.
From point T0 to the left horizontally, set aside 23 cm and place point T4.
Position of darts at the waist line.
The first dart is located along the fold line, set aside 1 cm from point T to the left and to the right. The length of the dart is 8-10 cm. Decorate the sides of the dart with straight lines;
The second dart is located in the middle of the segment from point T4 to the opening of the 1st dart. From the dividing point, lower a perpendicular 8-10 cm long - this is the center line of the dart, set aside 1 cm to the left and right and decorate the sides of the dart.
Rice. 8
Side cut line of the front half of the trousers.
Connect points J1 and K1 of the auxiliary straight line, divide it in half, and from the division point to the right along the perpendicular, set aside a deflection of 0.5-0.7 cm. Draw a side cut line through points T4, B1, R1, deflection point, K1, H1.
Rice. 9
Bottom line.
The bottom line of the front half is formed by a straight line H1H2.
The construction of the drawing of the front half of the trousers is completed.
Construction of a drawing of the back half of the trousers.
The width of the back half of the trousers along the hem line.H1H3 = H2H4 = 2cm.
From points H1 and H2 to the left and right, set aside 2 cm and place points H3 on the left and H4 on the right, respectively.
Bottom line of the back half: from point H, set aside 0.5 cm vertically downwards and place point H5. Draw the bottom line with straight lines, connecting points H3, H5, H4.
Rice. eleven
The width of the back half of the trousers at the knee line.
K1K3 = K2K4 = 2cm. From points K1 and K2, set aside 2 cm to the left and right and place points K3 and K4, respectively. Connect points K3 and K4 with straight lines to points H3 and H4.
Rice. 12
Step Width(See picture below).
R2R5 = 0.2 x (Sb + Pb) + 1. Substitute the values into the formula = 0.2 x (52+ 1) + 1 = 11.6 cm. From point Y2 to the right horizontally, set aside 11.6 cm and place point Y5
Step cutting line.
Connect points J5 and K4 with a straight line. Divide the segment Y5K4 in half, at the point of division along the perpendicular to the left, set aside 0.5-0.7 cm - we get an auxiliary deflection point. From point R3, lower a perpendicular 1 cm long down and place point R31. R3 R31 = 1 cm. From point Y2 through point Y31, draw a straight line to the right until it intersects with the auxiliary line. Designate the intersection point as R51.
Draw the step cut line through points Y51, the deflection point and point K4 with a smooth concave line, and through points K4, H4 - with a straight line.
Rice. 13
Middle cut line.
Auxiliary points:
D1D2=D1Y2: 2
The balance of the trousers is the ratio of the levels of the cut vertices of the front and back halves.
TT21=TT2: 3
From point T to the right, set aside 1/3 of the length of segment TT2 and place point T21. From point T21, draw a vertical line up, set aside 4.3 cm on it and place point T5:
T21T5 = 0.1 x (Sb + Pb) - 1 = 0.1 x (52 + 1) - 1 = 4.3 cm.
Connect points T5 and R2 with a straight line, mark the point of intersection with the hip line as B3.
Draw the middle cut line through points T5, B3 as a straight line, then through points D2, Ya31, Ya51 as a slightly concave line.
Rice. 14
The width of the back half of the trousers along the hip line.
B3B4 = (Sb + Pb) - B1B2 from the front half = (52 + 1) - 25.5 = 27.5 cm.
From point B3 to the left horizontally, set aside 27.5 cm and place point B4.
The width of the back half of the trousers at the waistline.
Т5Т7 = 0.5 x (St + Fri) + 2 darts. The opening width of each dart is taken to be 2 cm = 0.5 x (38 + 0) + 2 x 2 = 23 cm.
From point T5 to the left, make a notch on the waist line with a radius of 23 cm and place point T7. Connect points T7 and T5 with a straight line.
Rice. 15
The position of the darts of the back half of the trousers.
Divide the T5T7 segment into three equal parts, lower perpendiculars 8-10 cm long from the division points - we get the axial lines of the darts, from which we put half of the dart solution to the left and right, i.e. 1cm each Decorate the sides of the darts with straight lines.
Rice. 16
Side cut line of the back half of the trousers.
To ensure a smooth side cut line, the distance B4K3 must be divided into three equal parts. From the dividing points along the perpendicular we set aside 0.5 - 0.7 cm. Moreover, at the top point of the division it goes to the left, and at the bottom point it goes to the right.
Rice. 17
We draw a side cut line.
Connect points T7 and B4 with a slightly convex line, points B4 and K3 with a convex-concave line, through auxiliary points (see figure). We connect points K3 and H4 with a straight line.
Fig.18
The drawing of the back half of the trousers is completed.
Rice. 19
You have finished drawing the trouser pattern.
From this base you can construct any style and, of course, it can be used as a pattern for sewing dress pants. By making minor changes to the design, for example, widening the knees or narrowing the bottom, you will get a completely new model. By experimenting, you gain invaluable experience.
We will post detailed instructions on design and sewing technology with visual examples in the appropriate sections.
I wish you all creative inspiration!
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This page will describe the simplest and most understandable way to construct a pattern for the base of trousers. It is the base drawing for all subsequent changes when modeling the trousers. A methodology is also outlined with a detailed description of constructing a design drawing for a basic trouser pattern.
Pants, like skirts, are classic clothing and an integral part in the wardrobe of every woman or girl. This type of waistband can be fitted, fitted, straight, pleated or draped and so on. But the basis for drawing up the drawing is the design of the trouser pattern, which is called the base or basis. As an example, we take a pattern with a moderate loose fit.
The length of the trousers depends on the model, type of product (blinders or breeches), as well as on the width of the trousers and the height of the heel. There are many different methods used to construct a drawing of a trouser product. The version of the trouser pattern described below is constructed using the Italian method, with a perfect fit. The drawing of the waist product is constructed without allowances for seams and hem of the product along the bottom line.
Initial data of dimensional characteristics (measurements) for a pattern of size 44 trousers.
As initial data, the values of measurements, allowances for freedom of fit and additional measurements of sections of the width of the intended product, which are determined from the model, are used.
To ensure that the product you sew fits well on your figure, it is better to take measurements individually. How to correctly measure the human body and what measurements are needed, see.
When constructing a drawing of trousers, replace the measurements recorded in Table 1 with your dimensional characteristics.
When calculating some formulas for this type of belt product, allowances for a loose fit are used along sections of the waist line ( Fri) and hips ( Pb). See Table 2 for details.
Instructions for constructing basic lines consistent with each other. Basic mesh trouser pattern.
To begin with, build a drawing of the basic grid with the main lines (waist, hips, bottom, knees, seat height, ironing line of the halves (arrow)). See Figure 1 to see how these lines coordinate with each other.
Then we will step by step consider the progress of constructing a drawing of a trouser net, which is constructed from two separate halves (front and back) - these are the main parts of the product. When constructing a pattern, for clarity of the example we will use measurements of size 44 for a proportionally folded figure, see table 1.
Rear half mesh, Figure 2.
Begin building the initial structure of the grid, stepping back a few centimeters from the corner of the left side.
In the upper left corner we draw two mutually perpendicular lines intersecting at the point A.
Bottom line.
Vertical segment AN, which is equal to the size of the measure Dbr(length trousers).
AN = Dbr= 98 cm.
Waist line (belt stitching).
We build the waist line from A horizontal straight to the right.
Hip line.
AB = Wb
Seat height line.
AY = Sun(seat height) = 26.5 cm.
Depending on how tight the trousers should be in the groin area, you can add or subtract 1 cm from the seat height. For tight-fitting trousers made of elastic fabrics 26.5 - 1 cm = 25.5 cm. For loose trousers 26.5 + 1 = 27.5 cm.
Knee line.
AK = Dk (length of the knee line) = 59 cm.
Width of the hip line of the back half mesh.
BB1 = (Pob +Pb
From the found point B1 We build vertical lines in opposite directions until they intersect with the horizontal waist line and down to the horizontal line of the seat height. We denote the intersection points A1, Z1.
Extension of the base mesh of the rear half.
From point Ya1 build a straight line to the right and put a dot Ya2.
Ya1Y2 = BB1: 3 + 2.5 = 25.5 cm: 3 + 2.5 cm = 11 cm.
Ironing line for the middle of the back half mesh.
The location of the fold line (“arrow”) is determined by dividing the segment YaYa2 in half, we get Ya3, from which you need to draw a vertical line to the waist line and to the bottom level.
YaY2 = BB1 + Ya1Y2= 25.5 cm + 11 cm = 36.5 cm.
ZY3 = ZY2: 2 = 36.5 cm: 2 = 18.25 cm.
Drawing a vertical line through Ya3 when cutting, indicates the direction of the grain thread.
Detailed description of the pattern for the back half of the trousers, Figure 3.
Bevel along the waistline.
On the base grid of the back half (Fig.1) along the waist line from the point A1 to the left we retreat an amount equal to the measure ( GT2) waist depth 2 at the back we get WITH.A1C = GT2= 4 cm.
Balance of trousers according to bevel height.
CC1= (balance) = 1cm.
The sum of the darts along the waistline of the two halves of the trousers.
Find the sum of (side, front and rear) darts along the waistline.
∑B(sum of darts) = ( Pob - Sweat) - (GT2 + Vzh) = (50 cm - 37 cm) - (4 cm +0.5 cm) = 8.5 cm.
The width (opening) of the side dart on the back half of the product.
To begin with, we calculate the amount of the side dart solution ( ∑side).
∑side(side dart amount) = ∑B(sum of darts): 2 = 8.5 cm: 2 = 4.25 cm.
Then we calculate the width of the side dart of the back half AC2.
AC2 = ∑side(side dart amount): 2 = 4.25 cm: 2 = 2.13 cm.
The side of the side dart that goes into the side seam of the trousers is decorated with a smooth curved line through the dots C2, B.
Location of the dart.
The distance of the middle of the dart C2B is calculated using the formula:
C2B = C2C(we measure from the drawing of the back half): 2 - 1 cm = 19.37 cm: 2 - 1 cm = 8.7 cm.
From the point IN build a vertical line down to the intersection with the hip line.
Opening width and back dart length.
Dart length: BB2= 13.5 cm.
Dart opening width: В1В3 = ∑В(sum of darts) * 0.3 = 8.5 * 0.3 = 2.55 cm and then it turns out that the sides В1В = В3В = В1В3: 2 = 2.55 cm: 2 = 1.28 cm.
We draw the sides of the dart to equalize them.
We draw the waist line of the back half with a curved line at the points C2, B1, B2, B3, C1.
Seat cut.
Constructing the angle bisector B, Ya1, Ya2. On the bisector from the point Ya1 set aside a segment with a constant value and denote Ya4.
Ya1Y4= 3 cm (constant value).
We cut the seat smoothly concave through S1, B1, Ya4, Ya2.
Pants bottom width
The width of the trousers along the bottom line is calculated in this way, take the value Shbrn(the width of the trousers at the bottom) and divide between two halves (front and back).
H2H1 = Shbrn(width of trousers at the bottom): 2 = 42 cm: 2 = 21 cm.
The width of the bottom of the rear half.
Н3Н1 = Н3Н2 = Н2Н1: 2 = 21cm: 2 = 10.5cm.
Crotch line.
Ya2, N1. If the product is more tight-fitting to the hip, then the cut is constructed with a deflection in the middle of 3 - 4 cm or more.
Step cut (seam).
For our example, we draw up a stepwise cut of a straight line through points Y2,H1.
Rear half knee line.
The width of the trousers at the knee level in our example is determined by the intersection of two inclined lines of the side and step cuts when connecting to the bottom line.
In other cases, the knee width is determined by the model. It can be larger, smaller or smaller than the width of the trousers at the bottom, and can also be equal to it. The dotted line in the drawing shows the options for the width of the knee line when it is below the bottom line.
Shbrk(Pants width at knee line) 42cm = Shbrn(Pants width at the bottom) 42cm.
The width of the trousers along the knee line between the two halves (front and back) is calculated in this way, we take the value Shbrk divide in half.
Shbrk: 2 = 42cm: 2 = 21cm.
We distribute the width into two halves, right and left from the vertical ironing line of the middle (arrow) of the back half, 10.5 cm each.
Product bottom line H1H3 H2 a straight line is constructed, see Figure 3.
Grid drawing of the front half of the trousers, Fig. 4.
Begin building the initial structure of the grid, stepping back from the corner of the right side a few centimeters from the edge and from the top.
In the upper right corner we draw two mutually perpendicular lines intersecting at the point A. From point A down determine the position of the contour lines from the points B, I, K, N.
Waist line.
We build from A horizontal straight line to the left.
Hip line.
AB = VB(measurement hip height) = 19 cm.
Seat height line.
AY = BC(seat height) = 26.5 cm.
Knee line.
AK = DK(length of the knee line) = 59 cm.
Bottom line.
Line segment AN equal to the measurement of the length of the trousers.
AN = Dbr= 98 cm.
The width of the mesh along the hip line of the front half.
BB1 = (Pob + Pb): 2 = (50 + 1 cm) : 2 = 25.5 cm.
Expansion of the mesh along the step line of the front half.
From the received Ya1 build a straight line to the left and put Ya2.
Ya1Y2 = BB1: 3 + 0.5 = 25.5 cm: 3 + 0.5 cm = 9 cm.
Ironing line for the middle of the front half mesh.
The location of the fold line (“arrow”) is determined by dividing the segment YaYa2 in half, we get Ya3, through which draw a vertical line from the waist line to the bottom level. At the intersection we get points: A2 And H1.
YaYa3 = (BB1 + Ya1Y2): 2 = (25.5 + 9 cm) : 2 =17.25 cm.
We draw a vertical line through R3. When cutting, this line indicates the direction of the grain thread.
Pattern of the front half of the trousers, Fig. 5.
Drawing the middle line (bevel) along the waist.
On the base grid of the front half from the point A1 to the right we retreat an amount equal to Vzh(protrusion of the abdomen) and we get C1.
A1C1 = Vzh (Abdominal protrusion) = 0.5 cm.
Magnitude A1S1 depends on the protrusion of the abdomen; the greater the protrusion, the smaller this segment. Therefore, for a figure with a large protrusion of the abdomen, the bevel line is drawn to the left of the vertical A1B.
We form the bevel line with an inclined straight line connecting the letters C1 And B1. On this slanted line from C1 We retreat down a distance equal to the balance of the trousers. We denote the resulting point with a beech WITH.
S1S= (trouser balance) = 1cm.
Side dart solution.
AC2 = AC2(take the measurement from the back half) = 2.13 cm
Auxiliary line.
Points WITH And C2 connect with an auxiliary straight line.
The location of the waist dart is on the front half of the pattern.
On the auxiliary SS2 find the point IN.
Distance C2B = CC2: 2 - 1 cm.
Draw a vertical line from IN down to the hip line.
Length and width of the front dart opening.
Solution В1В3 = ∑В(sum of darts) * 0, 2 = 8.5 cm * 0, 2 = 1.7 cm.
Dart sides: В1В = ВВ3 = В1В3: 2 = 1.7 cm: 2 = 0.85 cm.
Front dart length BB2= 8 cm (standard).
We design the dart by equalizing the sides: increasing the smaller side along the length of the larger one.
B1B2 = B3B2.
We draw the waist line by points C, B1, B2, B3, C2.
Seat cut line.
We draw a bisector Ya4 corner with dots B1, Z1, Z2.
Ya1Y4= 3cm (constant value).
Draw a section of the seat using a concave curve point by point S, B1, Ya4, Ya2.
Front half side seam line.
We draw the line of the side cut (seam) according to the following symbols: B, N2 connect a straight line and a section with points B, C2 a smooth convex line to the right. For a figure with developed hips in the form of riding breeches, the seam gap B, N2 we issue through the point I.
Crotch line.
For trousers with a voluminous design, we draw a step cut line and connect it with a straight line Ya2, N1. If the product is more tight-fitting to the thigh, then the cut is constructed with a deflection in the middle of 3 - 4 cm or more.
The width of the front half of the trousers at the bottom.
The width of the trousers at the bottom is determined by the model of the product. In our example, it is equal to the measurement taken Shbrn the value is distributed in halves to the left and to the right.
H1H2 = Shbrn: 2 = 42cm: 2 = 21cm.
Н1Н3 = Н3Н2 = Н1Н2(front trouser width): 2 = 21: 2 = 10.5 cm.
Bottom line
Product bottom line H1H2 see figure 5.
The width of the trousers along the knee line of the front half.
The width of the trousers at the knee level in our example is determined by the intersection of the inclined lines of the side and step cuts when connecting to the hem line.
Knee width
Determined by the model. It can be larger, smaller or smaller than the width of the trousers at the bottom, and can also be equal to it. The dotted line in the drawing shows a variant of the width of more fitting trousers along the knee line.
Shbrk 42cm = Shbrn 42cm.
Width of trousers along the hemline
It is calculated in this way: take and divide between two halves (front and back) the value Shbrk.
Shbrk: 2 = 42cm: 2 = 21cm.
We distribute the width into two halves, right and left from the vertical line of the middle of the front ironing (arrow), 10.5 cm each.
Thigh girth control.
After the two halves are built, you need to check compliance with the measurement Hip girth = 56 cm. To do this, you need to measure the width of the two halves (front and back) horizontally below the step line 5-6 cm from the drawing and add the resulting result. Add the resulting values and the result should not be less than (Lunches).
Control signs.
On two halves of trousers, control marks are placed along the side sections at the level of the hips and knees and along the step sections at the levels of the knee line.