Everything we wear is sewn by a person whose profession is called a “tailor.” Therefore, absolutely everyone, without exception, deals with products that came out of the skillful hands of these masters. Tailoring is a common, frequent and honorable profession. A good tailor can transform a person, change his image and appearance, make a beauty out of an ordinary woman or hide figure flaws in a man who has begun to gain weight.
Everything we wear is sewn by a person whose profession is called “ tailor" Therefore, absolutely everyone, without exception, deals with products that came out of the skillful hands of these masters. Tailoring is a common, frequent and honorable profession. A good tailor can transform a person, change his image and appearance, make a beauty out of an ordinary woman or hide figure flaws in a man who has begun to gain weight.
Let us immediately clarify that a tailor can change our appearance not only for the better, but also for the worse. That is why good tailors are worth their weight in gold, and talented specialists who are able to not only sew high-quality clothes, but also recommend the most suitable style for your figure, are passed on “from hand to hand.” It’s not difficult to guess that you can become one of these masters only if you have three main components: talent, the desire to make people happier and more beautiful, as well as a readiness for all features tailor profession, which we will talk about today.
Who is a tailor?
A tailor is a representative of the craft profession, whose main work is making clothes: from cutting fabric to joining parts and decorating the finished product with decorative elements. Tailors, in the truest sense of the word, today call craftsmen who work on individual orders. Most often, their place of work is a custom tailoring studio.
The name of the profession comes from the Old Russian word “ръръ” (fabric). From this it follows that a tailor is someone who works with fabric. The history of the profession dates back to the 3rd century BC. in Ancient Greece, where the first workshops for the production of material and sewing clothes from it appeared. Since the 15th century, tailors not only sew, but also develop new clothing models. The highest caste of tailors is fashion designers, creating ready-to-wear and haute couture clothes. Such specialists shape not only style, but also fashion in general.
With the development of sewing technology and the transfer of the sewing process to an industrial scale, narrow specializations appeared within the profession, dividing the stages of sewing into separate specialties. In particular, the most common specializations can be identified as:
- designer – develops new clothing models and visualizes them in sketches;
- cutter - a specialist who makes patterns for the model and cuts the fabric;
- seamstress-minder(or just a seamstress) - connects the cut parts and performs finishing under the guidance of a tailor and cutter.
If we talk about a tailor who carries out individual tailoring, then his professional responsibilities include all stages of making clothes: measuring the client’s parameters, making patterns, cutting the product according to patterns, marking control marks and lines, stitching parts, carrying out wet-heat treatment, correction of inaccuracies identified during fitting, finishing of the neckline, design of sleeves, hem of the product and fasteners, as well as a number of other operations aimed at giving the finished product the most attractive appearance.
What personal qualities should a tailor have?
Tailor's work requires representatives of this profession to have the most contradictory personal qualities. On the one hand, a tailor must have pronounced creative abilities, and on the other, the monotony and painstaking process of making clothes can only be endured by specialists who are meticulous and disciplined, which is not typical for creative people.
In addition, when performing professional duties, a tailor will find the following personal qualities very useful:
- impeccable sense of style;
- scrupulousness;
- patience;
- responsibility;
- communication skills;
- stress resistance;
- ability to draw and draw;
- volumetric eye gauge;
- vivid imagination;
- creativity;
- perseverance;
- accuracy.
Let's add to this knowledge of mathematics (more precisely, geometry), the ability to understand materials, their properties and quality, the ability to read drawings and present it (drawing) in finished form, as well as well-developed fine motor skills (after all, a tailor works with small objects: needles , pins, delicate mechanisms of a sewing machine, etc.) - and a complete portrait of the ruler of “thread and needle” will appear before us.
Benefits of being a tailor
It just so happens that it is impossible to live in the modern world without clothes. Moreover, according to popular wisdom, people are greeted by their clothes (that is, they make the first impression). Therefore, specialists capable of sewing clothes have been and will be needed always and everywhere. And that's the most important thing advantage of being a tailor. Even if the master does not have large orders, there is always some small work to do: hem trousers, shorten a blouse, remake an old coat.
In turn, if there is a job, there will be a stable income. Moreover, the income of tailors is quite substantial, since even an economic crisis cannot force people to give up buying clothes. It should be noted that the largest income comes from tailors who make custom-made clothes. There are no upper income limits in this segment, and such Russian masters as Vyacheslav Zaitsev and Valentin Yudashkin, who achieved not only world fame, but also financial independence, can serve as a striking example of this.
By the way, a set of sewing accessories: needles, threads, a sewing machine (this is the minimum) is easily accessible and available in almost every home, so a specialist can always not only earn extra money, but also open his own business without large financial investments.
And most importantly, the ability to create bright and beautiful clothing models allows a tailor to always dress fashionably and stylishly, and at the same time not spend a huge amount of money on purchasing wardrobe items from leading Fashion Houses.
Disadvantages of being a tailor
Since a tailor sews clothes mainly for people he doesn’t know, there is a high probability that the tastes of the tailor and the client may not coincide, or they will have different visions of the same model. And this is probably the main one disadvantage of being a tailor.
In addition, inexperienced tailors often make mistakes that lead to damage to the material, and therefore to unexpected material losses. After all, the master has to pay for damaged material out of his own pocket: either reimburse the client for its cost, or buy a similar one.
This profession also has medical disadvantages. The fact is that during the work of a tailor, the specialist’s eyes experience the greatest strain. Therefore, eye diseases are considered to be an occupational disease for representatives of the tailor profession.
Where can you become a tailor?
Become a tailor You can attend one of the many specialized technical schools or colleges, which, by the way, are available in any city in Russia. It doesn’t matter which educational institution you choose, since the quality of education in this specialty is almost the same everywhere. But it is necessary to take into account that secondary specialized education will only open the door to the world of a tailor-artisan, but not a tailor-fashion designer.
You can become a top-class professional only after graduating from a higher educational institution, where in addition to the skills you have already acquired, you will be added knowledge of the use and composition of fabrics, the necessary skills in developing models and style, and will also be taught how to work with color solutions. And here it is advisable to make a choice among the best universities in the textile industry in Russia, which include:
- Moscow State Textile University named after. A.N. Kosygina;
- St. Petersburg State University of Technology and Design;
- Kama Institute of Arts and Design;
- National Institute of Design of the Union of Designers of Russia;
- Moscow State University of Design and Technology.
Natalya Smirnova - about how the author's atelier for sewing women's clothing is organized
During the Soviet years, due to a shortage of clothes in stores, many women were forced to sew them in an atelier or from familiar dressmakers. Nowadays, those who are willing to pay a fairly high price for it can afford individual tailoring. Therefore, there are quite a few ateliers specializing only in individual orders, and they often turn into a fashion house. The co-founder of the Abiart studio, Natalya Smirnova, told the website about how the author's atelier is organized.
42 years old, co-founder of an author's studio. She graduated from the Moscow Academy of Light Industry with a degree in design (textile designer). At the same time, she received a second higher education – Moscow State University of Design and Technology with a degree in fashion design. In 2002, she opened it together with a fashion designer. Alina Oshitkova atelier "Abiart", which specializes in individual tailoring of women's clothing and curtains.
How it all began
Natalya Smirnova knew from school that she wanted to be a fashion designer. But she was afraid that she would not be able to enroll in the desired faculty immediately after graduating from school. I began studying at the Moscow Academy of Light Industry, specializing in “desinator” - this is the name of a specialist who creates a design on fabric: determines what threads will be used, what ornament or design, in what size, etc.
Two years later, while continuing to receive her first higher education, Natalya entered the Moscow University of Design and Technology at the faculty where fashion designers were trained. When she finished her studies, she was called to work in an atelier as a fashion designer, although in addition to her main job she had to design and sew things from start to finish.
In 2002, Natalya, together with fashion designer Alina Oshitkova, founded their own studio “Abiart”. They rented a room for him in one of the institutes in the Voikovskaya metro area, brought their household sewing machines from home - and began to work. Investments in the project amounted to approximately $500 from the personal funds of the companions.
Gradually, the studio acquired professional equipment - it was purchased as the business grew and based on the needs of the enterprise. This is how straight-stitch machines appeared - for thin, medium-thick and thick fabrics (for example, jeans and leather), overlockers, and a machine for sewing leather and fur products.
Individual tailoring
Individual tailoring of women's clothing is a long and painstaking process. On average, it takes a month to make one item. First, the client explains to the specialists of the Abiart studio what exactly she wants to get and how she plans to use the new wardrobe item in the future - go to business meetings, wear it to special events or wear it in everyday life.
Then a sketch is created, which is approved by the client. If we can agree on how the finished item should look, we move on to selecting fabric. The Abiart atelier has catalogs of English and Italian fabrics. If it is not possible to choose a fabric from them, then the studio staff will continue to search through other suppliers located in Moscow. But more often it happens that a client comes to the atelier with a fabric that she likes. And together with the designer he decides what item to sew from this fabric.
The next stage is taking measurements. They are necessary for making patterns - templates used to create patterns and taking into account the characteristics of a particular figure.
“We calculated that there should be about six basic patterns for each client. Subsequently, product patterns are modeled and created from the base. And this takes from one to six hours. We haven’t started sewing anything yet, but we’ve already done so many manipulations,” notes Natalya Smirnova.
After creating the patterns, the finished pattern is transferred to the fabric. Each line is marked by the tailor using thread stitches. Only after cutting does the first fitting take place. The fashion designer and designer look at how the item sits on the customer and decide where and what needs to be removed, raised or moved to another place. To make changes, all seams are ripped out, and the product is reassembled for a second fitting. The third fitting is already final.
Handwork takes up about 75% of a garment sewn to an individual design, says Natalya Smirnova. “The volume of machine sewing is 5%. About 20% is iron and wet heat treatment. The remaining 75% is manual labor. And if you put hand stitches throughout the entire product, as our customers love, then the handwork becomes even more.”
The cost of sewing a women's business suit with fabric in the Abiart atelier starts from 60 thousand rubles, dresses - from 40 thousand rubles. Natalya Smirnova explains this by the fact that each item is created almost by hand, and the manufacturing process itself goes through many stages described above. Sometimes there are products that are made without a single machine stitch at all, for example, two-layer cashmere coats.
“There is clothing design based on standard patterns, and there is one based on tattoos. This is when you pin pieces of fabric onto a mannequin and assemble the clothes like a sculptor. Very often we use a combination of standard construction with tattooing,” explains Natalya.
Who orders what?
According to the observations of Natalya Smirnova, individual tailoring in the Abiart atelier is usually ordered by women of the following professions - architects, artists, financial directors, as well as business women. It is important for them to look different, so mass-market clothing very often does not suit them. There are also young clients who are preparing for graduation at school or university or going out.
Quite often, women ask to use very expensive fabric for their clothes. They explain this by saying that their business partners understand the quality of fabric used in other people's clothes. And the clothing itself is for them a marker of what social status their interlocutor belongs to. Therefore, it is important for such clients to look appropriate.
Regular clients, for whom the employees of the Abiart studio have already sewed several clothes and created their individual style, often upon subsequent contact only say what new wardrobe item they need - for example, a shirt. Next, the designer and fashion designer come up with what kind of shirt will match the rest of the customer’s clothes.
“Each sketch is approved, but with regular clients it is no longer possible to follow the sketches 100%. Each piece is an experiment, a creative moment. And not only for the designer, constructor, tailor, but also for the client. He creates with us. And in the process of this creativity there may be changes,” assures Natalya Smirnova.
There are also customers who come to us with a photograph of branded clothing and ask us to sew the same for them. According to Natalia Smirnova, working on such orders is a game of skill. Based on the photograph, the fashion designer must select the type of fabric that is most accurate to the original, and the designer must repeat the cut as much as possible (often without having a back view of the product).
The studio staff establishes trusting relationships with clients. “When a person stands in front of you at fittings almost naked, it promotes trust,” says Natalya.
Among those who sew clothes in the Abiart atelier are not only residents of Moscow and the Moscow region. There is a client who lives in America, but during her visits to Moscow she places orders.
“In our work, the number of orders or finished products per month is not an indicator of the studio’s productivity. There may be one, but very difficult thing in the work that the tailor will do for a month and a half. Or there may be many small things,” explains Natalya Smirnova.
There are clear peaks in orders in tailoring. They usually occur in autumn (October to December) and spring (February-March), and are due to the fact that along with the time of year, many women want to change their wardrobe. The fewest requests are in January and July-August.
In 2017, April and May unexpectedly turned out to be disastrous. This was due to the prolonged cold weather - no one was in a hurry to sew summer dresses. “We have never made so few summer clothes as we did this year. The first truly warm day was in Moscow at the end of July,” states Natalya.
Don't rush to the camp« Russian designers»
Atelier "Abiart" has a collection of wedding dresses. They wanted to develop this area especially actively in 2012. Natalya Smirnova brought her dresses to wedding salons in Moscow. But there, upon seeing the Russian name of the designer, they immediately refused to cooperate. Although at that time Russian designers were already becoming a trend in the field of casual clothing, but not wedding dresses.
“I am a designer who works in custom tailoring and makes custom-made products in a single copy. Yes, Russian designers at some point became a trend. But now there are a lot of them. Of course, there are wonderful designers who do great work. But the level of things for the majority leaves much to be desired. When we attend events like Haute Couture Week or visit boutiques, it becomes clear why clients come to us and to ateliers like ours. This is a different level of product both in terms of materials and workmanship,” adds Natalya Smirnova.
Personnel shortage
The team of the Abiart studio consists of seven employees: a designer, a fashion designer, an assistant designer, three tailors and an accountant. The team is exclusively female. Because of this, we constantly have to look for staff - employees often go on maternity leave.
Finding a ready-made specialist, according to Natalya Smirnova, is almost impossible. In Moscow and the regions, schools that train tailors are closing. And those who receive higher education in this specialty at institutes immediately claim a high salary. But as specialists, they are not yet ready to work after university; they need to be trained directly in the studio.
The shortage of personnel for the atelier also affects areas not directly related to the ability to sew or cut. Natalya Smirnova tried to find an SMM manager who would manage the social networks of the studio. But the hired freelancers made posts that did not reflect the features of the clothes that were made to order. As a result, Natalya herself is involved in social networks, using basic knowledge in this area. But she is sure that it would be better if the posts were not written every day, but written competently and by the business owner himself.
Natalya Smirnova is trying to make short videos about how things are created in their studio. But every time she enters the production floor with her phone camera turned on, her subordinates begin to feel shy. “Employees get very tense when they are removed. And it’s impossible to explain to them that small videos of how our thing is made are very suitable for social networks,” says Natalya.
Promotion through word of mouth
The Abiart studio has its own pages on Instagram and Facebook. They post photographs of finished products; many items are photographed from the reverse side. Such pictures allow you to evaluate the quality of the sewn item. “The priority for the buyer is the quality of the product. They come to us, first of all, for quality, not design,” Natalya is convinced.
The studio constantly has a problem with photographs for social networks. You can photograph finished items on a mannequin or in a studio, but good photo sessions require professional lighting and a professional photographer. What studio employees photograph on their own often does not convey all the nuances of the item. In addition, finished products are put on a mannequin or laid out on a table, which also does not add to their beauty.
Due to their status, the studio’s clients are in no hurry to post their own photos on social networks wearing things from Abiart. But they willingly tell their colleagues or acquaintances in personal communication where they got this beautiful shirt or dress. The main flow of visitors comes from word of mouth.
Unleash the future
Atelier "Abiart" is thinking about expanding in the near future. It is possible that the staff will increase by at least one manager. He will be engaged in accompanying orders, and not in sewing or cutting.
Now Natalya Smirnova is developing a casual line of ready-made coats and dresses. Things can be seen in the boutique of the Barvikha cottage village. The financial capabilities of the studio do not yet allow opening your own boutique. But this idea is still not abandoned - it is in plans for the future.
Goal:1. Analyze presented sets of objects characterizing various types of professions;
2. Establish logical connections and relationships using visual material;
3. Construct verbal statements in the form of reasoning and inferences;
Types of activities: 1. Compiling answers to questions with justification evidence, independent justification of professions using pictures with an explanation of cause-and-effect relationships.
2. Compilation of stories using reference words.
3. Drawing up proposals for types of professional activities with the establishment of logical connections based on poetry.
4. Solving logical riddles.
Assignment and didactic material:
A task to analyze pictures, riddles, poems with the establishment of cause-and-effect relationships and relationships in the text.
Guys, you know that adults, no matter where they live - in a city or village, always work.
People work for each other. City residents make equipment for working in the fields and on farms, and rural residents grow wheat, vegetables, and fruits for city residents.
There is a huge variety of professions.
Guys, what professions do you know? (Children's answers)
We have now listed many professions. Today I invite you to learn more about professions that are familiar to you. But with what...?
The teacher holds a plate on his palm and addresses the class.
- Where did you see this item today?
- What's in this plate?
- What products are needed to prepare this dish?
- What do you think was used to prepare this dish?
- What other dishes do you know?
- Who prepared these dishes for you?
- Where else do chefs work?
- Who cooks dinner at home?
But listen to this poem (read by a student)
Cook
How to easily prepare lunch.
There is nothing difficult about this.
It's as easy as shelling pears
It's done once and done
(If mom is cooking dinner)
But it happens that mom has no time,
And we cook our own lunch:
And then I won’t understand
(I don’t understand what the secret is?)
It's very difficult to cook dinner.
B. Zakhoder.
Millions of people must be fed, otherwise they simply will not be able to work or live. Let's thank our chefs for the varied and delicious lunches.
The teacher shows samples of children's clothing.
Each student takes turns looking at the subject. The teacher addresses the class:
You and I are dressed.
- Where did we get the clothes?
- How did she get into the store?
- Who sewed it? What was it made from?
- Who knows what they use when sewing clothes?
And now I will tell you riddles. And the answers to them are what people use when sewing clothes.
Small bird
He will dive with his tail,
The tail wags -
He will lead the path. (Needle)
Two ends, two rings
And in the middle there are carnations (Scissors)
Blue, little, galloping
It colors all people. (Needle)
Iron bull, linen tail. (Needle)
- What is the name of the profession of people who sew clothes? (Tailors)
Not all people know how to sew. In order for clothes to turn out beautiful and comfortable, you need to study sewing for a long time, and also love your work. If the tailor does his job poorly, the clothes will look bad and have low demand in the goods market. And if he does his job correctly and conscientiously, then we will be happy to wear high-quality and beautiful clothes.
The teacher draws the children’s attention to the object made by the children in the workshops during labor lessons, and addresses the children with the following questions:
- What is the name of this item?
- What material is it made of?
- What tools were used to make this item?
- Where was it made?
- Does the person need this item?
- What other wooden objects have you made in the workshops during your craft lessons?
- What is the name of the profession of a person who makes frames and doors?
Now let's once again remember the tools that people use when they build a house (children call them).
Now listen to riddles about different tools that help a carpenter. Listen carefully. The one who guesses the riddle will receive a picture depicting the answer. At the end, we'll see who our best guesser is.
I am the most lively worker in the workshop,
I beat with all my strength every day.
How I envy the couch potato,
What is lying around without any use,
I'll pin him to the board
I'll hit you on the head!
The poor thing will hide in the board -
That his cap is visible. (Hammer and nail)
Wonderful buddy:
wooden hand,
Yes, an iron butt,
Yes, a red-hot comb,
He is held in high regard by the carpenter,
Every day with him at work. (Axe)
Whirlwind Spinner
I rested my foot on the screw
I sawed the boards And he made a birdhouse. It helped a lot. Do the housework for me... (Saw) The eye will not help, I need the exact size. Where necessary, I put marks By using...(Roulettes)
At the horse's side, at the little humpback's
Wooden sides
When you hold it in your hand,
He will slide along the board. (Plane)
Lays brick by brick -
Growing floor by floor,
And every hour, every day
Higher and higher, a new house.
The teacher shows a picture depicting a “brick” and addresses the class:
- What is the name of this item?
- Where can he be found?
- What other tools are used when building a house?
- What is the name of the profession of people who build houses?
To answer this question, let’s solve a crossword puzzle.
A builder's cherished dream is to build a house from the first brick to the last. The profession of a builder appeared along with man. The builder, like a kind storyteller, takes care of us all. A roof over your head is a gift from the builder, and a bridge over the river is his gift. Warmth, electric light, comfort - all this from the builder.
The teacher shows a picture of a “wheel”. Refers to the class:
- What is this item?
- Where do you find this item?
- Why does a car need wheels?
- How does a car or bus move?
- Why do you think a person needs a car?
- Whose work involves technology?
Now we will look at road signs, traffic lights and answer the following questions:
- What should a driver know to drive a vehicle?
- Why are traffic rules needed?
- What rules do you know?
- What is the purpose of a traffic light?
- What road signs do you know?
- Why do drivers need road signs?
- Name the profession of the person who controls traffic on the road.
Thus, we have found out that the driver needs to know the rules of the road, understand the internal structure of the car, but this is not enough. You must be calm, patient, attentive. And mutual compliance with traffic rules by both pedestrians and drivers will ensure a calm environment on the roads. So let's be law-abiding pedestrians.
The teacher invites the children to play. The game is played with handouts.
Rules of the game:
On the table there are pictures depicting people's professions. Children take one picture at a time and talk about “their profession.” And the rest of the children name their profession.
Summing up the lesson.
Tatyana Andreevna Kamko
Summary of the comprehensive GCD “Professions of people who create clothes”
Direct educational activities in the preparatory group
Educational areas: cognitive development, artistic and aesthetic development, social and communicative development
Goal for the teacher: formation of a system of children’s ideas about the relationship between the activities of adults when creating clothes, in particular when creating a new model
Tasks:
Teach children to see the relationship and interdependence in the work of professionals and apply the acquired knowledge in practical activities - creating a clothing model
Systematize children’s knowledge about the professions of adults working in the Fashion House, create and review the “Fashion House” system
To consolidate the understanding and naming of the details and main parts of clothing (details of the dress: sleeves, skirt, bodice, collar, cuffs, belt)
Introduce children to new techniques (painting with a cotton swab instead of a brush - depict buttons, polka dots, small details; splashing with a toothbrush)
Exercise in the use of various visual means to achieve a creative concept and convey the features of the created clothing model
Provide experience in participating in the creation of a collective product “Fashion Magazine”
Product:
Fashion magazine for the game "Fashion Atelier"
Vocabulary work: model, fashion, fashion magazine, fashion designer, catwalk, cuffs, jabot, ruffle, flounce, bodice
Preliminary work: Excursion to the studio; conversation on the topic: “Journey into the past of clothing”; role-playing game “Fashion House”; did. game “Find the missing part for the dress”
Material and equipment:
Blanks with a half-drawn silhouette of clothes for each child
Fashion magazines with images of women's, men's and children's clothing – 3 pieces
Cards - types of details: sleeves, skirt, collar, belt
Colorfully designed cover for a fashion magazine
Whatman paper with illustrations of the professions of the Fashion House
Easel
Ribbon
Clothing stencils
Methods and techniques:
Explanatory and illustrative (verbal, visual)
Practical
Game
Creating a problematic situation
Expected result:
Understand the relationship and interdependence in the work of professionals when creating clothing models
They are able to use new techniques and means in drawing (spraying paint with a toothbrush; painting with a cotton swab instead of a brush (buttons, polka dots, small details, when creating a clothing model
Each child will gain experience of participating in the creation of a collective product of the “Fashion Magazine”
Fashion house
administrator director- responsible for coordinated work in the Fashion House, for quality service to visitors
fashion designers- come up with a model, create a drawing, sketches
cutter- takes measurements from the model, draws up and makes patterns, cuts fabric
fashion designer- carries out drawings from which patterns are made, provides new clothes
seamstresses- sew clothes, adjust them to fit
receiver- prepares documents, accepts and issues orders
designers- help complete the look of clothing models and decorate them
model- no fashion show can do without them
Progress of classes
I. Introductory part: Organizing time - goal setting motivation(Updating children's knowledge 2-4 min.)
Children come in and say hello
Let's smile at each other so that everyone is in a good mood.
Guys, you are very beautiful, elegant and fashionable today
Do you know what fashion is?
I reb. “Our fashion surprises all people. She dresses up adults and children.”
II reb. “Looking modern is nice. Everyone wants it so much - that’s understandable!”
III reb. “I want to dress fashionably. After all, there is a secret in fashion, in fashion. How old are you today?
Guys, what is fashion? How do you think?
Fashion is the short-term dominance of a certain taste in any area or culture, something very popular at a certain point in time. This means that at a certain moment something is very popular and widespread, that is, one person sees something new from another person and is more likely to do the same for himself. Fashion happens for everything - for various objects (as is the current fashion for phones, smartphones, tablets, etc., as well as fashion for clothes (for example, long skirts, dresses, leather jackets, etc.) and all people are trying to do this purchase to be fashionable.
Where do you think fashionable clothes are made?
Who do you think creates fashionable clothes?
What is a fashion house? This is a whole production in which people of various professions work.
Name the professions of people who create clothes.
What do you call the people who come up with clothing designs?
Let's look at the Fashion House as a whole system:
In order to create a new model, you need to work hard for a whole group of professionals (artist-fashion designer, fashion designer, designer, cutters, seamstresses, receivers, managers of various directions, administrator, models). Scheme.
When creating a new model, all professions are interconnected - receiver, cutter, seamstress, fashion designer-artist; one cannot exist without the other.
What do fashion designers do? An artist-fashion designer invents and creates new clothing collections, draws sketches, selects fabrics for new clothing models and decorations.
What do cutters do? They take measurements from models, draw up and make patterns, and cut fabric.
Why are there seamstresses in the Fashion House? They sew clothes and adjust them to fit the figure.
Receiver for what? Prepares documents for orders, accepts and issues orders to customers.
Who helps to complete the look of a clothing model and decorate them? Designers.
Who can't any fashion show be without? No models.
In fashion houses you can see modern clothing demonstrations with the participation of models. The showroom of the Fashion House hosts shows of new clothing collections. Models - girls and boys - walk along the catwalk to music and show samples of new modern fashionable clothes.
Where do models show clothes?
Guys, what is a model? This is a sample of a product or a sample for making something. A model demonstrating new clothing collections is a model for us and, looking at them, we can choose the sample of clothing we like,
But this is in big cities, and in our small city there is no fashion house, but there is an atelier.
Where do people get new clothing models from?
There are fashion magazines. Who can tell what a fashion magazine is?
A fashion magazine is a periodical that contains pictures of fashionable outfits.
Where can I get such a magazine?
What is a fashion magazine for?
Problem situation
Yes, guys, you can order new fashionable clothes from the studio by choosing your favorite clothing model in fashion magazines.
Is there a fashion magazine in your studio corner?
Would you like our atelier game to have its own fashion magazine?
Do you want to make it yourself?
Guys, I have these ready-made clothes.
Is it possible to create a fashion magazine from them? Why not?
Can we change them?
How do they need to be finished so that they can be made into a fashion magazine?
Target Motive
That's right, guys, these blanks need to be completed, decorated, and then collected into our fashion magazine, with which you can then play the game - fashion atelier. (Showing magazines of men's, women's and children's clothing)
D. Game: find the difference in children's clothes
II. Main part
Let's look at the details of the clothing so that you can then complete the missing parts for your model.
Guys, let's look at the models of children's clothing. (2-3 children's dresses) and compare them: long/short; skirt – fluffy/narrow, sleeves – long/short/sleeveless, collar – stand-up/large/small.
Now let's look at models for boys.
We look at the clothes of two boys - a shirt - long/short, with buttons; collar – large/small; sleeve – short/long with cuffs.
What can decorate clothes? (name details of clothing - ruffles, frills, flounces, straps, pockets)
Fizminutka
Activity planning
Guys, we learned about the work of the Fashion House, how models are created.
Here, guys, look at the drawing I created (I’m showing the finished dress).
What do you guys think, how did I achieve this result?
I used a new technique in drawing, would you like me to tell you about it?
To do this I took a toothbrush, dipped it in the paint and used my finger to splatter it over my model blank. I came up with a beautiful drawing. (I use a clothing stencil)
You can also use cotton swabs. What do you think can be drawn with them? (buttons, polka dots, lines, small details).
So, we learned about the work of the Fashion House, looked at the main details that decorate clothes, and talked about new techniques that you can use when making fashionable clothes.
Now can you create your own clothing model using these blanks?
Guys, today I invite you to be fashion designers and create your own clothing model using new knowledge and skills?
Use all your fantasy and imagination to create a fashionable clothing model. They must be done carefully.
What will we make of them?
When creating a clothing model, you can use any material, namely, colored pencils, felt-tip pens, wax crayons, paints, cotton swabs, and a toothbrush.
Select the workpiece you like, the material required for work and go to the workplace to create a model.
Boys create clothes for boys, girls for girls.
Independent work
Remember that each of you creates part of a system that helps create an entire fashion magazine.
Get to work. After you finish your work, bring me the finished models for making a fashion magazine.
III. Final part. Reflection
Summarizing
What were you planning? What happened?
And now from your works we will make a fashion magazine for the game “Atelier”
What a beautiful fashion magazine it turned out to be!
Guys, you are all so great! You have done wonderful work. Probably, when you grow up, maybe one of you will become a fashion designer and come up with different styles of clothing. And we will come and order.
Now let's go put our fashion magazine in the corner.
Children share their impressions of the work done.
After the fall of the ruble, clothes in Moscow stores became noticeably more expensive. Some, having come to terms with this, began to go to shopping centers less often, some now shop exclusively at sales, and some discovered second-hand stores or returned to a method proven by generations - sewing clothes with their own hands.
The Village met with five people who independently create clothes for themselves and others, and found out why sewing is akin to meditation and whether it is possible to sew a dress for a thousand rubles.
Pauline
I am a third-year student at MGUDT, Kosygin University. I love my university because it provides a classical knowledge base with which you can almost follow Roland Barthes (French post-structuralist philosopher and semiotician. - Ed.) you study costume design and semiotics (a science that studies the properties of signs and sign systems. - Ed.). This is very cool!
I went to university after I started sewing on my own. Then I realized that I wanted to say something to people through working with clothes and fabric. I am concerned about the issue of consumption and overproduction, as well as the huge amount of waste in the form of ugly clothes that do not reflect personality in any way. I wish people would stop sewing and buying all this stuff.
I started sewing clothes simply because I couldn’t always find what I wanted in stores. It’s much easier to do something on your own that matches your internal state.
I've been sewing for four years now. I studied on my own, but periodically checked some things with my aunt, who is a professional sewer, and did some things using video tutorials. I am very inspired by individuals with strong character traits. I have one friend whose image fascinated me. Then for some reason I decided that I wanted to sew a shirt. And she expressed her impression of his image, of the way the man presented himself, and of the way he looked. And then I just started sewing more and decided that I needed to go study as a fashion designer at university.
I haven’t tried it yet, but I really want to take, for example, a piece by Galliano or one of the new designers and try to copy it. I think everyone who sews needs to have the skill of copying. In easel painting, students of the same “Surikovka” copy Russian and Soviet painting throughout the preparatory course, developing the technique.
I often make things to order. Recently I sewed for a movie heroine: a classic blue dress with a half-sun skirt - according to the script, it was my husband’s favorite dress. A quiet, homely, downtrodden woman - this heroine devoted her whole life to her family. She gives injections to grandmothers and cooks for her husband. In general, I would like to participate more in such projects, when you don’t just sew, but with a story.
I haven’t sewed practically anything for myself since the summer. I have cut jeans lying around - nothing new has happened to them since then. Probably the most difficult thing about sewing for me is working with fabric. It is very important to choose the right material for the chosen shape and be able to work with it - to know how to cut it correctly, to calculate everything correctly. The skill of sewing is developed with the amount of sewing. A straight line is not the worst thing. It's scary when you're afraid to start.
I recently sewed a custom coat for a girl. The amount turned out to be almost the same as buying it ready-made in a store. But finding a coat of the cut and quality that you like is not always possible. When you sew yourself, you can clearly define style features. But, for example, there is Massimo Dutti - and whether you style it or not, it’s difficult to remove the classics from it.
I love sewing clothes as gifts: I gave my sister a dress for New Year, and I sewed a shirt for a friend. Even now I am sewing a shirt for my friend - also a shirt. I like to give ready-made things to friends, I give them away with the following words: “Oh, this will suit you, take it!”
Quite often I go to second-hand stores, and most often I don’t even have the goal of buying, but the goal is to get inspired or find something for work. Second-hand stores have very high quality items. I also love Avito and eBay - it’s a treasure trove. There are also pure coincidences. I recently bought myself a down jacket - in the dark, in Kuzminki, from a girl for 650 rubles. She apparently washed it in the washing machine unsuccessfully - it was all bunched up on one side. That is, on one side there is fluff, but on the other there is no fluff. I sat over him for half a day, trying to bring him to his senses. Now he seems to be alive and everything is fine with him, but it took a lot of patience.
I would probably like to open my own workshop. Maybe we can get together with our friends and try to rent something bright, like in the artist’s house on Vavilov, and work together.
I am 26 years old, I am a graphic designer by education - I studied at Britanka, but they greatly increased the cost of education, I had to take a sabbatical leave. Now I’m still looking for a job in my specialty and my sewing abilities help a lot. My last part-time freelance work involved me sewing something.
Since childhood, I have altered and damaged my mother’s things in every possible way. Mom dressed very cool. She had, for example, an Armani leather jacket and a bunch of beautiful dresses. My great-grandmother taught me to sew. I remember that she had a Singer machine in her room - wooden, with a metal pedal. As a child, I was not particularly sociable, I stayed at home and liked to rummage through my things. So I took it myself and started sewing - after my great-grandmother showed me how the machine worked.
The first thing I altered was one of my mother's dresses, from which I made myself a blouse. It was in third grade. Now I don’t even remember how it happened, but I came to school wearing new clothes. Later, at the age of fourteen, I started sewing strange outfits for myself - that was the period: I listened to strange music and looked rather strange, I looked like a punk. Already in high school, I ruined the aforementioned Armani jacket: I sewed an absolutely terrible bag out of it, having no idea how to work with leather correctly. And I even spent a whole year with her. The first more or less adequate thing that I sewed for myself eight years ago was a coat-robe without buttons.
I tried to make a collection of clothes. But the problem is that I don't have the patience for such things. Here you need knowledge and you need to think through everything in detail. And I rarely even sew things from scratch for myself. The thing is that I'm not a very good cutter, and to build something, I need to strain.
So it’s much easier to buy something at a second-hand store, and only then customize everything for yourself. In addition, clothing has become incredibly expensive lately. I worked in JNBY retail and know the cost of things. I really don’t want to pay three or four times more money for them than they actually cost. Because, on the one hand, I don’t have much money, and on the other, I want to avoid involvement in the consumption machine. Plus, of course, it’s still more interesting to have something that no one else has, even if you remade it from the mass market.
Sewing is like meditation: you do something with your hands, and this affects your mood and brain function. It seems to me that manual labor is very important in principle. But lately I no longer sew, but remake. Having discovered Megastyle, I often buy things there that don’t suit me, say, in size, and alter them to suit myself. The difficulty depends on the item - a skirt is quite easy to recut. But, let’s say, in a coat or trousers you need to rip everything out and know well the very design of the thing.
In terms of inspiration, Instagram influences me: I see some things on my feed that I like, and I often think: “It would be cool to sew the same one for myself, but from a different material.” I have quite a large stack of Burda magazines with ready-made patterns. If you take some basic pattern, you can build anything from it. I try to sketch things that come to my mind.
I remember two years ago I sewed myself a dress from velvet on silk. It was a real hassle, because the material is complex: it is difficult to process the edges on an ordinary household machine. And I made the pattern like this: I had a Paul Smith sweatshirt with really cool sleeves, I ripped it open, took the pattern off it and just lengthened it.
I recently had a part-time job where I sewed 30 raincoats, and at one point I didn’t sleep for two days. I arrived after a vacation, they offered to sew them, but they delayed it for a very long time: they took a month to approve the samples that I sewed. Suddenly, a girl from there calls me and says: “We have a deadline in a week.” I urgently needed to go and buy about a hundred meters of fabric. It’s good that there is a warehouse on Shchelkovskaya where everything is sold wholesale, in rolls of one hundred meters. You can also find all sorts of locks and fittings there. With these raincoats, for the first time in my life, I installed the buttons myself, and in the end the deadline turned out to be not in a week, but in two.
Personally, I really enjoy the cutting process when you transfer the pattern onto the fabric. But the most wonderful moment is when you have already put on the thing and can go out into the street in this form.
In terms of difficulties, it varies. It all depends too much on what kind of clothes you are sewing: for example, dresses have very difficult edges. Plus, the level of complexity depends on the material and the presence of small parts. Maybe that's why I will never take on making myself a dress shirt. I'm not the kind of person who can sit down and spend the whole day working so painstakingly on one thing. There was a time when I tried to sew myself a bra. But you need a special machine and a lot of patience - all these fabrics are slippery and stretch a lot. I had vintage lingerie patterns - I sewed one for myself once and then decided that I didn’t want it anymore.
Of course, in any case it’s cheaper to sew it yourself. But your time is also money. You can go to a bar in the evening, or you can sit down and do some sewing. If you know the places where you can buy inexpensive fabric, half the work is done. So, you can sew a dress for 800 rubles, and it will look like a Zara dress from the same fabric for 8 thousand rubles. Moreover, better fabric can be found.
I sew a lot as gifts. I give bags and backpacks - bag-like, with a thick bottom. I rarely buy clothes for myself. Lately, I have become quite cool about clothes in general - in the sense that I no longer need to buy a new sweater, a new coat, and so on every season. Because if I buy a coat, then I try to buy an expensive and high-quality item that can then serve me for a long time. The last coat I bought at Uniqlo on sale eight years ago, I still wear.
In the future I want to work in my specialty, as this is what interests me most. But at the same time, I want to bring the bag story to fruition. For now I’m sewing myself, but if there are sales and it becomes interesting, I’ll give it to production, otherwise I’ll have to sit at the machine from morning to evening.
I am 28 years old, I have two degrees, and in the first one I am a director-teacher. I graduated from college in Yaroslavl, then came to St. Petersburg - there I already studied producing. But it so happened that I ran away from there in my third year and moved to Moscow. And then I came across “Fashion Laboratory” by Vyacheslav Zaitsev. I studied there for a year, then Vyacheslav Mikhailovich left me to work for him. I offered him a project - to create clothes for plus-size people from his brand. He liked this idea and gave me complete freedom. I drew the sketches myself, cut and sewed them myself. I worked with Zaitsev for about a year, and our paths diverged, I went about my business: I got my first clients who, by word of mouth, began to pass me from hand to hand.
It all started with sewing for myself. From an early age, I asked my grandmother to alter or sew up something for me - first in early childhood and then when I graduated from school and went to college. When I started shopping with my mother, I always didn’t like something, and most often there was the same thing on sale. My grandmother played a big role - it was she who instilled in me a sense of style and always discouraged me from dressing like everyone else. She often said: “Why do it like everyone else, if you can do something of your own so that they can look up to you?”
The first time I took up sewing seriously was as a director, when I had to take a diploma and sew costumes for a theatrical performance. Students, naturally, don’t have money to buy, so you have to come up with it yourself. I bought fabrics, cut something somewhere, made costumes - everything went very well. And then I forgot about this experience and moved on to become a director.
Everything happened in a few weeks. I arrived in Moscow at the end of August, and in September I already went to study at the Fashion Laboratory. Even while directing, I realized how important a costume is, how big a role things play in people’s lives. A person dressed in luxury brands behaves differently: he has a different posture and manners. People who wear clothes from the mass market look more sporty.
Until recently, I was not interested in sewing for the crowd; I wanted to work with specific people. That is, I was engaged in individual tailoring. Now my colleague and I have created a brand of industrial technical clothing. We sewed a collection, made a show and opened a small showroom - we do not sew rags for the sake of rags, but clothes for people - workers in any field. Cooks, medical workers, builders, security services, military - they are distinguished by their clothes. We take the medical gown and recycle it. We take an interesting fabric and experiment with it.
I am inspired by people and their stories - victories or, conversely, tragedies. There is a lot of inspiration everywhere, even in the clothes themselves. I can look at a regular down jacket and be inspired by some detail. Instagram also inspires. Plus, there are now a lot of public pages where guys post interesting things.
In principle, creativity in itself is a kind of meditation. And if you really want to do something, then the right people come to you, you find the appropriate fabrics, suitable associations and pictures.
First of all, I try to sew for myself. I have basic things: trousers, shirts and T-shirts - what I feel comfortable working in. Right now I sew for myself quite rarely, because I’m so busy. If I have fabric left and I like it, I take it and sew it. I also sew as needed for any special occasion or event. I make the patterns myself, and mostly buy Italian fabrics.
At Arma there is a stock store of Italian, French and German fabrics. In the Krasnoselskaya area there is a store with a large selection of fabrics - quite expensive for tailoring, but they differ in quality and appearance. I look at my fellow workers - they can afford to sew from synthetics, but for me this is an insult.
There is nothing difficult for me in sewing anymore. I’ve worked in a lot of places and done a lot of things, and I understand that all the technology is very simple, the main thing is to get the hang of it. Naturally, it is difficult to work with light fabrics such as chiffon and organza. You can't even breathe there when you're sewing. Pants have always been especially difficult for me - I was afraid of them. Especially for overweight women. But one day I took an order, sewed the trousers, everything fit well, and the fear immediately disappeared.
If you are afraid of something, naturally you don’t take on it, and this complex grows. But really, you just need to start. Now I have learned a lot, but there are still difficult things - this is all that needs to be put on the figure. The human body is very specific: in the morning it can be one way and in the evening another. You need to understand the composition of the fabric, how it behaves during human movements, in a static state, and so on.
I sew clothes as gifts. For example, to all your friends. It’s nice when they write: “I’m wearing your sweater!” The most important thing is to be needed. It is, of course, cheaper to sew for yourself than to buy. One and a half to two thousand for the fabric - that’s all. Now I don’t buy clothes for myself, except maybe socks. I order underwear from Russian designers, as well as shoes. I try to support my colleagues.
Natalia
I am 29 years old, I design stage costumes and simply sew custom-made clothes. She even made costumes for the backup dancer Anita Tsoi at the Golden Gramophone. I haven’t bought clothes for myself for seven years.
At the age of 13, I transferred to an art class at a gymnasium where local fashionistas studied. Then I started repurposing my mother’s old things, because I wanted to look different from everyone else. For example, I took out old jeans, boiled them in different colors, sewed in guipure, made some interesting textures and came to school in them. One day the headmistress sent me home to change clothes with the words: “You are discriminating against children who do not have money for clothes.” And when I told her that I was doing it all with my own hands, she gave me all the resources and a teacher to implement my ideas. This is how my first clothing collection was born at the age of 14.
When I was 12 years old, my mother said: “You’re already an adult, now I won’t sew for you - I’ll just show you what’s what.” And that’s it - I checked every step with her. I even remember the first thing I sewed at the age of 12 - a black pencil skirt with a green zipper. Often I took my mother's old things and remade them. I remember how I found a corduroy skirt and an old fox collar, cut it into five parts, painted each one with special paint, cut it and glued the skirt with this fur. The top was embroidered with beads and sequins.
Unfortunately, the skirt has not survived.
There are several options for how a thing appears. It happens that an image arises for which you select the fabric and texture.
And it happens that you see fabric in a store and a specific thing comes to mind. In fact, an image can be born from any random object. You look at a brick and the idea of texture arises. You can even look at a door handle and get inspired by the shape and material.
I love looking at different designers on Style.com - you can find anything there, literally all the collections. It seems to me that everyone can find a designer there to their liking. Many teachers say: don’t look, otherwise you will start copying. But really you just keep up with the times.
I studied at the National Institute of Design of the Union of Designers of Russia. When I entered there, it was a small university, where teachers looked for their own approach to each student. For me this is a great value in education. Every year we released a collection of clothes on a given theme.
Then I tried to repeat the clothes of famous designers, but not exactly the same. You can also be inspired by other designers - there are a lot of talented people in the world and there are elements that just can’t get out of your head. For example, I saw a collection with fringes at Givenchy and made myself a vest from double-sided leather - I cut each fringe separately. It's very labor-intensive, but in the end I got a vest with fringe to the floor.
Now I have a lot of work, and I don’t have time to sew something for myself, but before I used to consistently make a new thing once a week. Sometimes, when inspiration accumulates, I just sit down and can sew for myself non-stop for three days - and get it done in that time five or six things.
I have my favorite warehouses where you can find stock Italian fabrics. For example, on Nizhegorodskaya street or on “Savelovskaya”. For those who are not good at design, there are special magazines with designs, such as Burda, where, I believe, you can find good shapes and model interesting models. I work with a standard base from which any model can be constructed, and in general I often cut almost by eye and work on a mannequin using a tattoo.
The most difficult thing for me is classic suits. The quality of details in such suits requires meticulous precision. There are people who enjoy sewing these parts. On the contrary, I love large shapes and draperies. But, in principle, nothing is impossible for me at all: I used to sew headdresses and corsets from mirror plastic when I participated in my first design competitions.
I make impulse purchases, but I almost never go to clothing stores, unless for company. Of course, it is many times cheaper to buy fabrics and sew your own clothes. At the same time, you will have fabric of much higher quality than something from a store, plus you will get the satisfaction of knowing that you made this thing yourself. You can, of course, buy a meter for 100 euros - the materials are different. But in general, you can make a very cool dress for yourself for 5 thousand rubles. I buy linen, but I already understand that I need to sew. It’s just that there is a certain specificity of the equipment and the subtlety of the work.
I started sewing in the eighth grade with avoseks - fabric handbags. I sewed one for myself, painted something with acrylic paint, came to school with it, and all my classmates asked for the same ones. That’s how it all started - you could say that my first orders were for these handbags.
Back in elementary school, I tried to sew on a sewing machine - my mother also sews, and machines were always at hand. The first time I secretly, while my parents were not at home, sat down at the typewriter and wrote my first lines. At this time, my younger sister was playing next to me. She accidentally pushed me and my finger got caught under the typewriter. It was semi-electric, and everything happened very quickly. But because I was so afraid that I was doing it without permission and without the knowledge of my parents, I somehow dealt with the wounded finger myself - I took the brilliant green, smeared it on my finger and didn’t tell anyone.
Then my grandmother showed me how to sew on a machine. And in the ninth grade, I asked my mother to show me how to sew trousers. So I made my first thing - ordinary plaid trousers with creases - so semi-classical.
It was quite difficult for me to study at school - I could not cope with disciplines like mathematics. But I had a knack for handicrafts: I could make something, sew, and I liked it all. Mom agreed that there was no point in staying at school for two more years, and I entered a technical college.
By that time, my mother had already taught me some basic things, and it was easy for me. In my first years, when we didn’t have any practice yet, I was already sewing jeans and other things for myself - I came to study in my own clothes. Then I graduated from college, entered MSUDT with many of our group and studied there for about six months. At the end of my fifth year of college, I met people from Elektrozavod, and I was very inspired. I just found myself in another world. It has greatly impacted my life and everything I have now. I left the university to work at Elektrozavod.
I sew each item separately, and not in whole “bows”. I like to practice techniques, I really like to do everything carefully. Therefore, even sewing a shirt is a special thing for me. I like that I buy the fabric myself, cut everything out and sew it myself. That's why I like to sew my own clothes and don't go shopping much.
I don't draw in advance. If I want to sew something, I just listen to myself, think about what I want. I love silk fabrics and I made myself some silk tops this summer. Everything works like this for me: first I sew something for myself, I go somewhere in it, and people start wondering what it is and where I bought it.
I have Pinterest where I collect pictures for inspiration. It is also useful to look at some other people's things, because you can find interesting elements in it or learn a new way of processing. But I have never tried to repeat someone else's work. Mostly I come up with it myself. Sometimes only customers bring a picture and say: “I want this!”
Once or twice a month I sew something for myself. I already go to trusted places for fabric. To the store on Semenovskaya, for example. At Kurskaya, at the Arma plant, there is one good warehouse. There is also a warehouse at Elektrozavodskaya. Unfortunately, I don’t know how to make patterns on my own. And that’s why I use ready-made patterns from Burda magazine, and sometimes I take some things and just trace them on paper.
I don’t know for sure which is cheaper - to sew to order or buy in a store. Most likely the same. But for me it’s definitely cheaper to sew it myself. Let's say I bought culottes at Uniqlo and they cost 2,500 rubles. But the fabric is completely synthetic, it sticks to the tights, and I constantly suffer with these trousers. And to make these myself, it can take me about fifteen hundred thousand for the fabric.
I have my own workshop - there are three of us there. It is located in the VDNKh park, in the “Park of Crafts”. Of course, turning a hobby into a profession is not easy, but as soon as I imagine going somewhere to work, I immediately feel sad. In general, it’s hard to imagine myself doing anything else.