Did you believe the bright advertising of an anti-aging cream that promised instant smoothing of the skin from wrinkles, but did not receive the promised effect? In order to purchase a truly high-quality cosmetic product that can slow down the aging process and restore the skin from age-related changes, you should know what active substances must be included in its composition. In this article we will provide you with useful and important information on this topic that is relevant to every woman.
What information will you find out:
What are anti-aging products used for?
Those who claim that such compositions should be used only after the appearance of wrinkles and signs of aging of the epidermis are fundamentally wrong! In fact, the sooner you start using these products, the longer your skin will stay firm, fresh and youthful! Another thing is that choosing a truly high-quality product is not within the power of every buyer, especially those who are not experienced in this matter.
A good cream can have a comprehensive effect on the skin, providing:
- its active hydration;
- good nutrition;
- cell restoration;
- regeneration of the skin layer;
- increasing the firmness and elasticity of the epidermis;
- powerful protection against free radicals and UV rays;
- increased turgor density;
- renewal of skin color;
- tightening the oval and contours of the face;
- smoothing wrinkles and folds.
A high-quality cream against wrinkles and age-related changes does not have to be very expensive! The most important thing is that it contains 3–4 components from the list of substances that will be listed below.
High-quality anti-wrinkle creams must contain hyaluronic acid.
Valuable substances in anti-aging products
A high-quality cream that stops the aging process and restores age-related changes should contain the following components:
- hyaluronic acid, which is part of the epidermis, the production of which significantly decreases with age, helping to saturate cells with moisture, increasing the elasticity and firmness of the skin;
- collagen (preferably of marine rather than animal origin) is a complete skin protein that serves as a cellular scaffold that keeps the skin taut;
- coenzyme Q10, which ensures the exchange of energy between skin cells, eliminates dryness, and also activates the synthesis of its own collagen, rejuvenating the entire skin surface;
- kinetin is a powerful antioxidant that destroys free radicals and helps smooth out the epidermis from wrinkles;
- copper peptide, which neutralizes the aggressive effects of free radicals and stimulates the natural production of the amount of collagen fibers necessary for skin restoration;
- polyphenols contained in green tea and natural red wine, which have powerful antioxidant properties that slow down the aging process of cells. In addition, they relieve inflammation, smooth out wrinkles and have an antimicrobial effect;
- vitamin of youth and beauty E (tocopherol) is the most popular antioxidant that resists oxidation and protects cells from the harmful effects of ultraviolet rays;
- Vitamin C is another excellent antioxidant that accelerates the synthesis of collagen structures, whitens and relieves inflammation of the skin surface;
- retinoids - various forms of vitamin A (retinol, retinyl, palmitate, tretinoin) have pronounced regenerative properties, improve the condition of the skin structure, activate blood circulation, accelerate the healing of the epidermis, eliminate age-related changes by restoring damaged collagen bonds and enhanced cell renewal;
- isoflavones, which are a natural plant analogue of the female sex hormone estrogen, have a rejuvenating effect on the skin structure, reducing the severity of wrinkles and age spots;
- glycoceramides - substances that restore damaged areas of cell membranes, providing the skin surface with smoothness, silkiness and perfectly even texture;
- DMAE is a naturally occurring substance found in fish species such as anchovies and sardines. It makes the skin firm, elastic, tones and actively smoothes out existing wrinkles;
- sun filters, the action of which is aimed at protecting the epidermis from the destructive effects of ultraviolet rays, which are considered the main cause of skin aging. Without them, even the best cream will be ineffective, since it will allow aggressive UV rays to penetrate into the dermis, triggering the mechanism of cell aging;
- Alpha-lipolic acid (ALA) is an acid that neutralizes free radicals that are formed and can significantly enhance the effect of other antioxidants included in the composition.
Knowing and taking into account the above information, you will choose a truly effective anti-ageing cream that will make your facial skin young and radiant!
Video: Making your own anti-wrinkle cream
Our skin can absorb up to 60% of what we put on it. Together with our favorite cream or facial wash, we can feed our body daily with a portion of parabens and carcinogens. With the help of experts we trust, we tried to figure out which ingredients should not be present in our cosmetics, and which, on the contrary, will only add benefits to us.
“Nothing will make you more wary of any chemical that comes near you than the doctor telling you: “You have cancer.” This is exactly what happened to me,” after learning about her illness, Gillian Decon completely reconsidered her attitude towards cosmetics and wrote the book “There’s Lead in Your Lipstick: Toxins In Our Everyday Body Care And How To Avoid Them,” which became a bestseller in the USA and Canada (“Lead in Your Lipstick: Toxins in the Cosmetics We Use Every Day and How to Stay Away from Them.”)
Gillian highlights 20 ingredients to stay away from. Many of them have long been banned for use in Europe, but not in North America, where the author is from.
1. Coal tar. A known carcinogen that is banned in Europe but is still used in North America. Used in creating treatments for dry skin and anti-dandruff shampoos. Often hidden behind the FD&C Red No. 6. In addition to carcinogenic effects and acute allergic reactions, it can cause asthma attacks, chronic fatigue, headaches and nausea.
2. DEA/TEA/MEA. Surfactants (surfactants). These carcinogens are used in shampoos, soaps and shower gels. Irritates eyes, skin and mucous membranes, causing dermatitis. Diethanolamine (DEA) easily penetrates the skin and is deposited in various organs, especially the brain. Substances in this group are toxic to the kidneys, liver, brain and skin.
3. Ethoxylated surfactants and 1,4-dioxane. Never appears on the label, but is found in 57% of baby detergents in the US. Long-term contact may cause irritation to the skin, mucous membranes of the eyes and nasopharynx.
4. Formaldehyde. Added to nail polishes, hair dyes, shampoos. Banned in Europe. Extremely toxic. Causes severe irritation of the mucous membrane, dermatitis.
5. Synthetic flavors. Hidden chemicals. May cause headaches, dizziness, asthma and allergies.
6. Hydroquinone. Used in facial whitening products. May contribute to the development of cancer and reproductive dysfunction.
7. Lead acetate. A known carcinogen that can be found in lipsticks and hair dyes in the United States. It is not indicated on the label. Banned in Europe. Has a toxic effect on the liver, kidneys and nervous system.
8. Mercury. A known allergen that can cause brain dysfunction. Found in some mascaras and eye drops.
9. Mineral oil. A petroleum product often used in baby oils, moisturizers and hair styling products. Creates a film on the skin that prevents the natural removal of toxins from the body. May reduce the protective function of the skin.
10. Oxybenzone. Active ingredient in sunscreens. Causes allergies and hormonal dysfunction.
11. Parabens. Trade name: butylparaben, ethylparaben, methylparaben, propylparaben. In cosmetics they are often used as a preservative. Causes dermatitis and allergies. May be one of the causes of tumor diseases.
12. Paraphenylenediamine (PPD). Used in hair products, but is toxic to the skin and harms the immune system.
13. Phthalates. Banned in Europe. They have a negative effect on the reproductive system, including infertility, and can cause cancer, dysfunction of the liver, kidneys and lungs. Found in some nail polishes, perfumes, deodorants, and hair sprays.
14. Placental extract. Used in anti-aging products, as well as in hair care cosmetics. May negatively affect the health of the endocrine system.
15. Polyethylene glycol (PEG). Penetrates into the deep layers of the epidermis and delivers other harmful carcinogens there.
16. Silicone emulsifiers. Used to achieve a soft consistency of the product. It is not biodegradable and does not allow the skin to breathe. They have been linked to tumor growth and skin irritation.
17. Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES) - sodium laureth sulfate and Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) - sodium lauryl sulfate. In the past, industrial degreaser was often used in the production of soap formulas. It gets absorbed into the skin and causes irritation.
18. Talc. Used in baby powder, eye shadow, blush and deodorant. It is associated with tumor and respiratory diseases.
19. Toluene. Used in nail and hair products. Often hidden behind the Parfum/Fragrance label. Negatively affects the immune system and endocrine system.
20. Triclosan. Most often found in antibacterial products and deodorants. Irritating to the skin, toxic to the body and negatively affects the liver, kidneys, lungs and brain.
✭ Gillian herself began not only to carefully read labels and choose organic cosmetics, but also to make them herself: “When you prepare a mask or toner yourself, you know exactly what ingredients you are using. This may seem stupid and too complicated, but I encourage you to try it. While writing the book, I prepared many creams, masks and lotions and gladly tested them on myself and my friends. Nothing makes me happier than when I see how well a product I mixed with my own hands works.”
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Katerina Karpova, creator of the natural cosmetics brand Pure Love
- What should you be wary of in cosmetics?
“This is a group of substances whose names contain PEG or PGG (Polyethylene glycol and Polypropylene glycol), fatty alcohols ending in -th or “-et” Laureth-9, Polysorbate (polysorbates), Polaxamer (polaxomers), Sodium Laureth Sulfate (Laureth sulfate sodium) - all these substances can disrupt the barrier function of the skin. It is also worth paying attention to Propylene Glycol (propylene glycol) and Butylene glycol (butylene glycol) at the beginning of the composition - in large quantities they are potential irritants and can affect skin sensitivity.
Alcohol or Alcohol Denat (ethyl alcohol) at the top of the list helps dry out the skin. Some chemical filters behave the same way, for example, Oxybenzone (oxybenzone), Octyl Methoxycinnamate or Octinoxate (octinoxate), Octocrylene (octocrylene). All these substances can penetrate into the deep layers of the skin and also oxidize during prolonged exposure to the sun. Organic products are often simple in composition, in which you will see vegetable oils, fatty alcohols, flower waters, extracts, proteins, physical sunscreens Titanium Dioxide, Zinc Oxide (Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide) and acids as a preservative.
Natural products do not contain the red flag ingredients described above, silicones, ingredients ending in -con, -conol, -xan-, such as Dimeticone, Cyclomethicone or Cyclopentasiloxane, and mineral oil.”
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Ingredients that will improve your skin
“It’s good if day creams contain balanced oils, for example, Argania spinosa Oil (argan), Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Oil (rice bran oil) or Baobab Seed Oil (baobab oil). As an additional option - grape oil. Particularly valuable in night remedies are Oenothera biennis (Enotera), Evening Primerose Oil (Evening Primrose), Rosa canina Oil (rose hips) and Borago officinalis L. Oil (Borago, borage oil). These oils replenish the deficiency of essential linoleic and linolenic fatty acids in the skin, which actively participate in the life of the skin, maintaining its healthy appearance.
Dry, problematic and sensitive skin needs ingredients that help restore the protective barrier of the epidermis. These include Ceramide (ceramides), Lecithin, Phosphatidylcholine (lecithin), NMF (NUF or Natural Moisturizing Factor), Phytosterols (phytosterols), Lactobacillus or Bifidobacterium lysate, Galactoarabinan, Inulin (prebiotics). The skin also needs antioxidants, some of the most famous are Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (green tea), Vitis vinifera Extract (grape extract), Centella asiatica Extract (Asian centella, gotu kola). It is important that the pH of the cream is balanced and close to our natural Ph 5.5. This may be indicated by the presence of lactic acid (lactic acid) or citric acid (citric acid) at the end of the composition.
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Dull complexion- this is a sign of poor circulation, so look on the label for ingredients that will strengthen it: grape extract, green tea, centella asiatica or the strongest antioxidant - superoxide dismutase (SOD) and licorice extract. For heavy smokers, I recommend products containing blueberry and hibiscus extract - they refresh the complexion.
For UV protection SPF products that contain chemical filters are not suitable for daily use. Look for minerals: titanium dioxide or zinc oxide. Milk thistle extract, mate tea and ratania root also protect against ultraviolet radiation and help skin cells stay healthy.
To restore the skin's protective barrier Ceramides (the main elements of the lipid structure of the upper layers of the skin), lecithins, blackcurrant oil, macadamia oil, amaranth extract help - they all contribute to the rapid restoration of the skin.”
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And a few more tips:
When choosing a product, first study the order in which the ingredients are found in the composition. Those at the beginning of the list are in larger quantities, and those towards the end are in smaller quantities.
If you come across an ingredient unknown to you on the list on the label, check its origin on the Ekokosmetika website or in the Skin Deep database.
Choose cosmetics whose environmental friendliness is proven by ECOCERT, BDIH, NaTrue, Cosmebio, USDA Organic and other certificates. We talked about the brands of organic cosmetics that we especially love.
The greatest attention should be paid to the composition of those products that we use daily and that remain on our skin for a long time: tonics and lotions, face creams, sunscreen, deodorants and oils. If the product only comes into contact with the skin for a short time and is washed off (for example, hand soap), you don’t have to worry so much about its composition.
Material half prepared: Nastya Khvatova
This compound is a derivative of petroleum products. It is the second most popular component of moisturizers after water. This compound may cause eye and skin irritation. Propylene glycol is found in shaving products, baby oils, and shampoos. If the label contains Propylene Glycol, Proptylene Glycol, 1,2-Propanediol, we don’t take it!
2. Formaldehyde
It's formaldehyde. This is a common preservative. You can find it in nail polishes, shampoos, and whitening products. On the label it can be designated as 4 formaldehyde, formalin, formic aldehyde, oxomethane, oxymethylene. Toxic and carcinogenic. Never.
3. Hydroquinone
Hydroquinone is a popular ingredient in whitening cosmetics, hair lighteners, concealers, face washes and sunscreens with an SPF greater than 15. Hydroquinone reduces the production of melanin pigment in the skin. This leads to increased exposure to UVA and UVB rays in the deeper layers of the skin. You understand how dangerous this is. May appear on the label as 1,4-Benzenediol, 1,4-Dihydroxybenzene, P-Dioxybenzene, 4-Hydroxyphenol, P-Hydroxyphenol, 1,4 Benzenediol.
Popular
4. Sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate
These substances remove fat and salt from the skin. May cause irritation to the skin and eyes, but pose a real threat only after prolonged (more than an hour at a time) contact with the skin. So if your shampoo contains it, don’t panic, but in the future try to choose products that do not contain Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Sodium Lauryl Ether Sulfate, Anhydrous Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Irium, SLS, SLES, MSDS, ALES , A.L.S.
5. Paraben
Any cream contains substances whose names end in -paraben. For example, butylparaben, methylparaben, propylparaben. These substances are used as preservatives. Parabens are considered safe, but recent research has confirmed that methylparaben may interact with UVB rays and accelerate skin aging. Be careful with him!
6. Aluminum acetate
Used in face creams as an astringent. It was originally developed to create waterproof fabrics... interesting analogy with leather, isn't it? With prolonged use, Aluminum Acetate causes peeling of the skin.
7. Bithionol
Used in creams as a bactericidal agent. May cause increased skin sensitivity to sunlight, itching and redness. If you have sensitive skin, then the mention of Bithionol on the label is a stop sign!
8. Triclosan
The latest achievement in antibacterial chemistry. Used in cleaning products and detergents for household needs, as well as in cosmetics. But scientists noticed that bacteria began to “learn” and form strains resistant to triclosan. Since regular soap cleanses the skin just as well as triclosan, let's not help bacteria prepare universal soldiers? Triclosan will not work!
9. Glycerin/Vaseline
Chemical compounds of fat and water in which fat is broken down into smaller components. Contrary to advertising, they are not a moisturizer, but cause dehydration and drying of the skin (at air humidity below 65-70%, they “pull” moisture from the deep layers of the skin, which increases the drying of the deep layers of the epidermis, making dry skin even drier). It’s easy to identify them in the composition: Glycerin and Vaselin, there are no pseudonyms.
10. Dihydroxyacetone
This chemical compound is most often found in low-quality auto bronzers. It can worsen asthma. Particularly harmful for pregnant and lactating women. Hiding under the name Glycerone, 1,3-dihydroxypropanone-2. Armed and very dangerous.
11. Fluorocarbon
Commonly used in hairsprays under the name Fluorocarbons. Toxic to the respiratory tract.
12. Phenoxyethanol
Causes serious allergic reactions. Trade name: Arosol, Dowanol EPH, Phenyl Cellosolve, Phenoxethol, Phenoxetol and Phenonip.
13. Fluoride
For many years, this ingredient has been advertised as being good for teeth, strengthening enamel, and protecting against caries. It was introduced into toothpastes and recommended to children as “a component necessary during the development of permanent teeth.” But the National Toxicology Program, with the assistance of the US National Health Service, conducted studies that confirmed that fluoride, although one of the natural components of dental tissue, should not enter the body in the form of fluoride. Fluoride is needed in small quantities and can be absorbed in organic forms through food.
14. Talc
Terribly toxic. This is especially true for powder. Make sure yours is marked “Talc free”.
15. Butane and propane
Found in deodorant sprays, they are very harmful to both the skin and the respiratory tract. Do you need it?
by Notes of the Wild MistressUnfortunately, youth quickly passes, but those who do not pay due attention to self-care are even more distressed when they notice traces of skin aging. Do you want to maintain beautiful, elastic skin longer? No later than your twenty-fifth birthday, start using night creams!
The fact is that during sleep, at rest, our skin absorbs the beneficial substances and active compounds contained in night creams much better. Thus, skin tone is restored and premature aging is prevented. With regular use of a properly selected high-quality night cream, you will see for yourself how the next morning signs of fatigue on your face disappear, facial wrinkles are smoothed out, and your skin becomes fresh and smooth.
What to look for when buying a night cream?
Ingredients that must be included in the night cream:
First of all, these are antioxidants. It is important that the night cream contains vitamin E, as well as coenzyme Q10 (CoQ10);
Must contain keratin;
The night cream should also include substances such as iron, calcium and their compounds;
One of the most important ingredients in night cream is vitamin C;
And, of course, the night cream must contain ingredients that stimulate the production of collagen and elastin (for example, Cynergy TK);
It is very important to have enzymes in your night cream that accelerate the delivery of vitamins and moisture to the deeper layers of the skin. These are hyaluronic acid and hyaluronidase.
If you choose an anti-aging cream, then make sure that it contains proretinol-A, because it is with its help that cell renewal occurs. A necessary ingredient of such a cream is nanosomes - these are microparticles that reach the depths of the epidermis, ensuring the penetration of beneficial substances.
What should not be in a night cream?
Of course, it’s nice when the cream smells delicious and attractive. But keep in mind: if the smell is created not by the natural ingredients of the cream, but by artificial additives, you should not use it, since unnatural fragrances may contain chemicals and toxins that are easily absorbed into the skin.
Anti-aging and night creams should not contain alcohol, as it dehydrates the skin, destroys natural lipid protection and even reduces or completely stops the effects of most beneficial ingredients.
You should not buy a cream that contains mineral oils, as they have the ability to clog pores, and this provokes the appearance of redness, irritation and acne.
The cream should not contain dioxane and polyethylene glycol - these are potential carcinogens that will harm your skin.
Cosmetologists have conducted numerous studies on padimate-O, which was used in creams as an ultraviolet blocker, and have still not come to a consensus. But many experts suspect this additive is carcinogenic, so it’s better to be careful.
Very often, parabens are added to creams, which extend the shelf life of night creams. You shouldn’t save money and buy a large amount of cream at once, being glad that it will last for a long time. It is better to buy cream more often and in small packages, as parabens can harm the endocrine system.