And outside the window, outside the window is the beauty of the new moon.
Weeping willows whisper with the Bug.
Year forty-one, early June -
Still alive, still alive
Everything, everything...
Everything is ahead, everything is yet, everything is the day before.
Twenty sunrises left happy.
Year forty-one, the beginning of June -
Still alive, still alive
Everything, everything...
It was warm summer days, the air in Moscow was filled with blooming linden. In the tenth grade, exams began, someone was going to rest in the Crimea, L. Utyosov and L. Orlova watched from the posters ... Nothing, it seems, foreshadowed the huge tragedy that would begin soon, that at many industrial enterprises, including in the perfume industry, there will be silence. It would seem, why spirits in this tragic time, when the number of those killed and destitute is incalculable. However, the spirits of the Soviet era in this period of grief and loss had an unexpected patriotic pathos on a par with the music and poetry of those years.
From Moscow and Leningrad, chemical plants were evacuated to the Urals, including Esters. Already on the ice of Lake Ladoga, under shelling, they took out all the equipment of the Lenaromat plant. The Moscow factories "Novaya Zarya" and "Svoboda" switched to martial law - the men went to the front, the women built anti-tank barriers. Before perfumery?... At the Svoboda factory day and night they produced soap and tooth powder for the army. The population was given everything on cards and in very limited quantities. Then a piece of soap became a valuable thing.
Factory "Novaya Zarya" from the remaining stocks of ethyl alcohol produced cologne for senior officers. For the rest, it was not available either on cards or for money. Ethyl alcohol during the war was a strategically important product. Before the war, it was produced from food raw materials, and already in the first years of the war, the vast territories of our country, where up to 38% of grain and 87% of sugar beets were grown, were occupied by the Nazis. But alcohol was very necessary not only for perfumery, but also for medicine and pharmaceuticals. Therefore, various agricultural products of Siberia, Altai, and the Far East were used for the production of alcohol.
The patriotic upsurge increased every day, and not only on the battlefields or at factory machines in the rear, but also in the cultural space of Soviet wartime life, which gave rise to outstanding works of music and poetry. And the perfumes "Red Moscow", "Wait for me" wafted their fragrance over the devastated country as a symbol of the service of perfumery to human feelings:
In the dirt, in the darkness, in hunger, in sadness,
Where death, like a shadow, dragged on the heels,
We were so happy
They breathed such stormy freedom,
What grandchildren would envy us ...
The salon-shop is located on the first floor, the Museum - on the second. Here are exhibits that have accumulated over a century and a half. The State Historical Museum has also added to the exposition. The exposition of the museum consists of two small halls - the first is dedicated to the art of perfumery and its features from the 11th to the 20th centuries, but there are also more ancient rarities; the second reveals the history of the Novaya Zarya factory from the moment it was founded to the present day.
The main exhibit is the glove box! It was thanks to simple peddlers of gloves that wealthy citizens had free access to fragrances: leather things did not always smell pleasant and so that noble noses would not suffer, they were sold gloves with all kinds of de colonies - eau de cologne (fr) - in other words, cologne (colonial or cologne water).
In the windows there are huge - sometimes almost human-sized - bottles in which the notorious cologne was poured precisely for hygienic purposes: they didn’t wash much, and even Napoleon himself used 30 gallons per month for the sake of cleanliness. Moreover, the bubonic plague added its mite to the matter of hygiene, and leather products had to be worn in large quantities: here fragrant rivers of cologne flowed.
The Egyptian balsamary - the oldest exhibit of the exposition - is over 2000 years old. Medieval fragrances and incense burners, luxury fashion items of the 16th - 18th centuries (among them Madame Pompadour's garters, with recommendations on how to apply powder embroidered on them).
At the end of the exposition of hall No. 1 there is a distillation apparatus for oils by distillation; steam distillation (a jet of steam is passed through the raw material heated in the distillation cube).
There are also unusual things. Spectator's tubes of the 18th century. Ladies were supposed to weep when watching plays where passions were seething. But not everyone could give the right amount of tears at the right time. Therefore, the spectators brought tubes to their eyes - a crystal bottle with a binocular eye in the middle and smelling salt inside. She inhaled a sharp aroma and - tears flow with the required frequency.
Aroma stand - this is where you can smell everything we know about: lily of the valley, ginger, musk, incense, patchouli... A huge number of aromatic natural scents that are not sold in pharmacies or stores. In our age, when a perfume composition consists of 70% non-natural ingredients, plunging into the world of real smells is worth a lot.
In hall No. 2 - the history of the factory "Partnership Brocard and Co." In 1864, the fragrance factory was founded by a hereditary connoisseur of fragrances from France, Heinrich Brocard, and after the 1917 revolution. The factory was nationalized and renamed Zamoskvoretsky Perfume and Soap Plant No. 5. The faceless name did not take root, and in 1922, at the suggestion of the chief perfumer August Michel (who had worked at the enterprise since the time of Brocard), it became New Dawn.
Brocard was the first to make promotional kits, which included small samples of his products (the very "probes" that perfumers all over the world would use in the 20th century). Judging by the wondrous beauty of the bottles, Brocard worked with the best glaziers in Russia and Europe.
There is no guide (all guides were fired recently) sad! - without them it's not so interesting, now the sales consultant is telling the story (from the 1st floor from the store). My friend and I were the only ones in the museum.
Excursion to the Perfume Museum is completely free! They also strictly warned that photos are prohibited !! I am posting a photo of the sign at the entrance.
MUSEUM: Tue-Sat from 10 to 19, Sun from 10 to 18, Mon - day off.
SHOP: Mon-Sat from 10 to 20, Sun from 10 to 19
👁 Do we always book a hotel on Booking? Not only Booking exists in the world (🙈 we pay for a horse percentage from hotels!) I have been practicing Rumguru for a long time, it’s really more profitable 💰💰 Booking.
At one time, the founder of the factory, now known as "New Dawn", complained that domestic perfumes are not taken seriously - everyone is chasing the French ones. Over the past century and a half, the situation has changed little. However, in the light of the current market situation, Novaya Zarya looks more attractive, if only because it does not raise prices as rapidly as its Western counterparts. The former cost, of course, does not remain - after all, the factory closely cooperates with French laboratories and buys a lot from them.
Before "tasting" the spirits of the "New Dawn", it would be interesting to know about her past!
Brokar & Co.
The history of the largest perfumery factory in Russia began in 1864 with ... penny soap.
When the hereditary French perfumer Heinrich Brocard opened his soap factory in Moscow, things did not go right away. At first, soap was brewed in a former stable, and in addition to Brocard himself, there were only two assistants on the staff. The profit was meagre. But one day the perfumer (as it is believed, at the suggestion of his wife) decided to make a souvenir soap: one kind in the form of animals, another with letters, the third in the form of vegetables. The fathers of families were happy to bring such gifts from the fair to their children and wives.
By the early 1970s, Brokar had earned enough to move on to the production of perfumes and colognes. In 1873 he became court purveyor. The whole of Moscow smelled of cologne "Flower", a million bottles were produced a year. And for the "Persian Lilac" Brocard received the Gold Medal in Paris, leaving behind his French colleagues.
After the death of the founder, the empire passed to his wife Charlotte, then to his son. At that time, the talented perfumer August Michel worked at the factory, who came up with the fragrance "The Empress's Favorite Bouquet". These spirits have existed for more than a century, only under a different name. Guess what? Yes, this is exactly Krasnaya Moskva, the most famous fragrance of Novaya Zarya!
New Dawn
After the revolution, the factory "Brocard and Co" was nationalized, dubbed it "State soap factory No. 5". Three years later, the unappetizing name was changed to New Dawn.
The basis of the assortment was soap products, but since 1922 the production of perfumes was again established. Paying tribute to the "red" theme (perfume "October", "Paris Commune"), perfumers listened to the voices of nature ("Lily of the Valley", "Wonderful Lilac", "Cyclamen"), and the whisper of feelings ("Loves, does not love", " Ninon").
In the USSR, their own chypre fragrance appeared - cologne "Chypre". Another legend is "Triple". The production of "The Empress's Favorite Bouquet" was launched in 1925 (of course, now "Red Moscow" was written on the bottle).
"Red Poppy" celebrated the first anniversary of the October Revolution, and three novelties came out at once by Pushkin's days: "The Tale of the Fisherman and the Fish", "The Tale of Tsar Saltan" and "The Queen of Spades".
The factory responded to any significant event in the history of the country with fresh releases. "Jubilee" perfumes, "Shield and Sword", "Triumph" marked the anniversary of the army, and the new cologne "Vostok" was timed to coincide with the first space flight. Theatrical (Great Artist, Debut, Mask) and Olympic themes (Olympian and Bear) are also traced. Someone sunk into the soul of "Lights of Moscow", someone - "Evening", someone "Waltz of the Flowers" ...
Nouvelle Etoile
Cooperation with French laboratories has become a new stage. The company is proud that the perfumers Michel Almarac and Francis Camai participated in the creation of some of the fragrances, and the bottles were designed by Thierry de Bachmakoff. Russian-French cooperation has been official since 2004, when the Nouvelle Etoile brand appeared.
Among the most popular fragrances today are:
- "Gold of the Scythians" - honey, with herbal, apple, ylang undertones;
- Kuznetsky Most ("Kuznetsky Most") - autumn-spring, creamy-powdery, with velvet padding. Often compared to Lancome Climat;
- The Vert ("Green Tea") - a cool tea-lemon "drink" for hot days, - light, unsweetened. Novaya Zarya is often accused of imitating Western bestsellers, and this time we can't help but recall the Elizabeth Arden fragrance of the same name, which is similar even in packaging. But which one is better, the student or the teacher? - you decide;
- La Belle de Russie ("Russian beauty"): sweet peach-apricot mix for cold days;
- Follow Me Day "Follow Me Day" - a feminine cocktail with roses and irises;
- citrus Eau Jeune seems to many to be very close to what was sold in the 80s;
- flower green unisex White Tea ("White tea") with bergamot and freesia;
- chypre Tete-A-Tete, which came from Soviet times;
- Renommee (rose, apple, greenery).
And most importantly, after a long break, Krasnaya Moskva has been coming out for several years now. Will New Dawn's future be as loud as its past? Time will show.
Class: Mass-Market, Middle-Market, Natural
Country Russia
Price range:100 – 15 00 rub
Official site: http://novzar.ru/shop/
The Novaya Zarya brand (Moscow) produces perfumed products in three classes:
- Classic, where it is customary to include such fragrances as "Red Moscow" or "Elena".
- Modern, which have been produced for a couple of years, and then discontinued, like Kuznetsky Most or Naughty.
- Limited edition, produced in several batches, like "Persian Lilac".
In addition, the factory is actively working on the production of skin care and decorative cosmetics. Her lines are divided into men's and women's. Nail care products are presented in the Lux and Standard class.
How it all began
153 years ago, the hereditary perfumer Heinrich Brokar came up with a brilliant idea - to create his own enterprise, where he would produce soap. And in the same year, he brought his idea to life - the first bars of cheap soap came off the assembly line, each of which had a letter of the alphabet. Baby soap went "with a bang." But Heinrich himself was in no hurry to stop, on the contrary, already in the 70s of the last century, he released a series of products related to high perfumery: perfumes and colognes. For several years, his company becomes the leader of the Russian market of those times, and gradually it takes pride of place abroad.
The revolution of 1917 did not bypass the factory - it was transferred to state ownership and renamed, it received a new name - the soap factory at number 5. After 5 years, the country's leadership transferred the factory to GosZnak, and since November it has become known as "New Dawn" - the factory perfumery and soap products.
Nouvelle Etoile - New Dawn trademark
Prominent figures of the world of perfumery from France took an active part in the development of new generation products. The largest contribution was made by Michel Almarac and Francis Camai. It was they who, in their laboratories, created the fragrances that allowed New Dawn to receive many international awards. Models of packaging, bottles got their shape thanks to the light hand of a designer from France - Thierry de Bashmakoff. And since the beginning of autumn 2004, such partnership activities have brought results - the Nouvelle Etoile trademark is registered.
Despite a sharp turn in the company's history, its management strictly ensures that all products comply with world standards and traditions introduced by Heinrich Brocard. Thanks to the documentation accumulated since his time, many aromas of the past have been preserved, which have harmoniously passed into the popular novelties of Nouvelle Etoile.
Now in our country, the company's products can be bought in 38 stores of the Nouvelle Etoile chain, which are located in 31 cities. And if in 2006, which became the impetus for the development of the network, perfumes could only be bought here, now you only need to go to the website of the factory's online store.
Products
It has more than 1000 titles. From perfumed deodorants and car fresheners to Limited edition and Classic perfumes. All products are natural raw materials. For example, a series of cosmetics for skin care "Russian Beauty" will help to preserve youth thanks to natural and well-chosen components. Super Revitalizing Facial Serum contains cornflower extract to reduce puffiness and help restore wrinkle-free beauty to the skin.