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Before you start weaving a square box, you need to learn how to make a square bottom. Let us immediately warn you that the square shape often causes difficulties for beginners, so beginners are recommended to start with small round baskets. You can familiarize yourself with the procedure for weaving such baskets in our previous article.

There are several ways to make a square bottom:

1. Use ordinary plywood (we will tell you more about it below);
2. Weave the bottom using tubes, the bottom will turn out beautiful, wicker. But this option will be a little difficult for beginners at the initial stage;
3. The bottom for a wicker box can be a piece of corrugated cardboard covered with paper, wallpaper or fabric.

Let's first look at this option for making the bottom.

Cardboard bottom covered with vinyl wallpaper

Maintaining geometry while weaving a rectangular bottom is one of the most difficult tasks for a beginner. In such cases, a cardboard bottom is used, which is in no way inferior to a wicker one.

In order to make a cardboard bottom we will need:

• Vinyl wallpapers. You can replace them with anything: from plain paper to fabric;
• pva glue;
• Cardboard with double corrugation.

We cut out the bottom of the dimensions we need from cardboard. The wallpaper must be divided into two rectangles of different sizes. We cut the first one to the size of the bottom, and make the second one a little larger (for bending).

Carefully coat the cardboard with glue on one side. We take a blank of a larger area and put cardboard on it. After turning it over, smooth the wallpaper with a polyurethane spatula to remove all bubbles. Of course, you can do without it, but such a tool will simplify the work and make it better.

Smoothed wallpaper sticks in a matter of minutes! Having smeared the base with glue, we press the fold tightly to the cardboard, as if pulling it from the edges to the center.

Important! In some cases, the wallpaper may not stick to each other. In such situations, it is recommended to glue the corners with a more powerful glue.

Next, apply pva to the base and firmly press a smaller piece of wallpaper (cut according to the size of the bottom). After this, smooth out and remove the bubbles using the same spatula. The bottom is ready!

Don't be alarmed if the corners are slightly off. Glue them with a more powerful glue, for example, polymer “Master”, “Dragon” or “Titan”.

Now, so that the bottom does not bend over night and dry out thoroughly, it needs to be placed under pressure. After a day, you can begin the next stage of weaving a box from newspaper tubes: creating holes for the stands.

To do this we need an awl with an extension and a rather sharp tip. Holes need to be made at the ends of the bottom along its entire perimeter, at a distance of approximately 2.5 cm from each other. Note! The awl should fit evenly. Do not damage the bottom walls.

Now you need to glue the racks into each hole.

Lubricate the holes with pva glue, and remove the excess with a cloth. The deeper you manage to place the rack, the stronger the structure will be.

Compared to bottoms made by gluing racks between two blanks (shown in the photo below), this method is particularly elegant. The products are thin and neat, which is great for creating small baskets and boxes.

In order for the glue to set well and to be sure that the racks will not fall out, it is necessary to leave the bottom for a couple of hours to dry. After this, you can safely continue working.

As a precaution, we will make the inside of the box on the side where the smaller piece of wallpaper was pasted. This is done in case the basket is placed on a damp surface.

In this case, nothing will come off, since the outer edge is wrapped in wallpaper. Also, to protect against moisture and make the structure stronger, the bottom is coated with acrylic varnish.

Let's start raising the racks. This should be done as follows:

Taking an auxiliary, new tube, we place it under the counter (pay attention to the photo below). Next, we bend the stand, bringing it under the neighboring ones and lifting it up. We repeat this action with all the other tubes.

Important! Pay attention to the angle! In order for the corner post to maintain its position, you need to move it towards you (look at the photo below).

Next, we bring the previous rack under it and lift the corner one up. Thus, the original corner post seems to hug the new corner post and lead it behind the next one. This method allows you to get an even angle.

Having done this around the perimeter of the bottom, remove the auxiliary tube and place the last remaining stand in its place. As a result, we got a neat bottom.

Now the main task is to beautifully braid the resulting frame in any convenient way, with calico weaving or rope.

Paper for the bottoms or imitation wrinkled fabric/leather.

If wallpapering cardboard seems too banal or just doesn’t suit your taste, don’t be afraid to experiment! For example, use regular A4 sheets or watercolor paper.

Take a regular sheet of A4 office paper and lightly spray it on both sides using a spray bottle. Next, scrunch it into a ball, making small folds, and hold it in your fist. This is necessary so that each fold is well saturated with water and slightly loosened. Carefully unroll the wet sheet of paper and place it on the film.

Take a brush and paint the sheet on one side with a light stain. Turning it over, paint it dark.

Advice! It will be much easier to turn the sheet over without damaging its integrity if you cover it with a second piece of film, turn it the other side and remove the piece on which the paper was originally located.

A very interesting pattern appears on the front side of the paper: veins painted with dark stain appear through the light stain.

After drying, the paper will shrink slightly and begin to look like leather. Before gluing it to the cardboard, it is recommended to spray the sheet on one side with a spray bottle.

After varnishing such bottoms, they turn out unique and quite attractive.

Alena Bugrova offered her step-by-step video tutorial on decorating the bottom of a wicker basket. This method requires more effort and time and involves applying a multi-layer patina. The result will pleasantly surprise you!

Weaving a square bottom from newspaper tubes using a machine

Without a machine, a beginner in this business will not be able to hold the racks in the correct position. They can taper towards the center, taking away the geometry of the bottom, so getting an even rectangle without having experience behind you is not easy. There are several types of homemade machines. Let's consider each of them separately.

Machine No. 1 - arched perforated plastic corner

Such a machine is constructed using an arched profile for drywall. It rigidly fixes the racks and dimensions of the product. The tubes are inserted into one of the parts of the corner (where the holes are) and not removed until the end of the weaving, and the other (where the recesses) are used for the active movement of the racks when creating the bottom. The opposite ends of the tubes are placed precisely in these chamfers.

Olga Ladoga covered the topic of weaving on this machine step by step and in detail. Watch the lesson in this video:

To maintain evenness and consistency of shape, it is recommended to place skewers or knitting needles on the outer posts.

To make weaving comfortable and enjoyable, one condition must be met. Tubes used as racks, must be completely dry, and workers (used directly during weaving) - wet.

There are several ways to braid racks: with chintz (you will need one tube) and with “reverse rope” (you will need 2). When weaving with chintz, you need to take turns placing the tube behind the counter and in front of it. When weaving with a “reverse rope”, the bottom will be more even and will not bend.

You can braid the racks as follows: if you weave with chintz, leave the ends of the working tubes on the sides, approximately every 2-3 rows. In the future they will be side posts. The result should look like this:

How to achieve this:

However, if you braid the posts completely without leaving the ends, then you need to add tubes to the two bare walls. This is done at the end of the work, after we remove the bottom from the machine.

With this option, glue new racks every 3 rows (look at the photo below):

After this, it is recommended to braid the racks with a simple rope, preferably 2 rows. This way they will be held in place more firmly. And only after this can you raise the racks.

Machine No. 2 - cardboard in combination with clothespins

If you do not have the opportunity to make a machine from PVC corners, make it from simple materials at hand, for example from a piece of cardboard. Just secure the posts with clothespins at the distance you need from each other. Important! The racks must be strictly fixed on one side and movable on the other.

Taking a piece of cardboard, draw stripes on it at a distance of 1.5-1.8 cm.

To each line, observing the ruler, we attach newspaper tubes using clothespins. The tubes can also be secured with masking tape instead of clothespins. The tape is then easily removed without leaving any traces.

Machine No. 3 - penoplex (or cardboard) in combination with tailor's pins

Many people use penoplex as a material for making the machine, which can be purchased at any hardware store. The softness of the material allows you to insert tailor's pins into it, which can even be replaced with toothpicks. They serve as a kind of limiter for the tubes; during the braiding process they are not pulled to the sides. The distance between the posts can be made 2-2.5 cm, depending on your preferences.

The weaving pattern on this machine is discussed step by step in the video:

Maintain right angles

Often, craftswomen who take up this business for the first time have difficulties with the evenness of the corner posts. To achieve perfect evenness of the corners, you need to weave on a rigid form! The corners must be clear. For this, not only a cardboard box of the shape you need is suitable, but also other available materials that can hold their shape well. It is possible to use even large children's LEGO sets.

When lifting the racks, remember that the outer ones must be exactly in the center of the corner. Before you start braiding the walls, it is recommended to insert 2 additional posts into the corner. Thus, this corner post will not be single, but triple.

Olga Ladoga explains the basic principles of braiding corners in her master class:

Weaving a large laundry box

If you are just starting to weave, we advise you to use a cardboard bottom. It will be difficult to take on the task of making a wicker bottom without some preparation: after all, you need to follow the instructions and ensure the evenness of the corners and each post.

Since a laundry basket made from newspaper tubes is designed for a large load, in the case of a cardboard bottom it is recommended to make the bottom double: so that the posts are located between two sheets of cardboard.

If you plan to use plywood, then the bottom of the bottom for the linen box can be made single, in this case, the racks must be secured as firmly as possible using a furniture stapler and polymer glue. To prevent the staples from being visible, you need to take plywood at least 6 mm thick, otherwise they will come out from the inside out.

When forming double bottom made of plywood or MDF, it will look much neater if you take two sheets 4 mm thick. There will be no joints, the bottom will be smooth both inside and out.

If your choice still falls on corrugated cardboard, you will need two blanks made according to the template. Do not forget to cover them with wallpaper or other paper analogues. Between these blanks we glue the stands using polymer glue (look at the photo below)! This will give the structure greater strength.

Leave it to dry overnight under pressure. After this, we braid at least one row of ropes around the perimeter. You can braid a rope into 3 or more tubes, or you can braid it into 2 tubes. This step will eliminate the gaps between the workpieces.

Now, in a way already familiar to us, we lift the racks up, wrapping them behind the adjacent one, and align them.

If you place the racks behind the second adjacent one, the frame will take on the following form:

Now all that remains is to braid the racks with any of the patterns. For beginners, “chintz” may be suitable, as it requires a minimal amount of material to weave. Having placed the form inside, we begin weaving with moistened tubes. We continue to the height we need.

When weaving with a “simple rope”, approximately one and a half times more material is wasted than when weaving with “chintz”.

You can complete the work by cutting off the posts. Paint the resulting “stumps” with the same solution that was used to paint the tubes so that unsightly cuts are not visible.

Now the box needs to be primed. Mix the following ingredients in 1:1 proportions: varnish and water, or water and pva glue. After this, the casket needs to be thoroughly coated and dried.

Leave it for at least a day. In a day it will acquire rigidity and will squeak pleasantly. Then we cover it with acrylic varnish in 1-2 layers and let it dry.

Rectangular lid with inner edge

In order to make such a lid, you need to follow the following sequence of actions:

We glue 2 racks to the cardboard, as shown in the photo.

Next, after applying glue, we attach a second piece of cardboard and send our frame to dry under pressure.

We weave with a “rope” to the size we need, braiding both posts. The size should not exceed the internal size of the box.

Having tried it on and made sure that the lid does not reach the edges a couple of centimeters, we continue to braid only one rack, bending the second one. It will serve as the beginning of our future side. For ease of weaving, you can place books under the lid.

Having reached the desired size, we turn it over and begin weaving a side of 2-3 rows. Then we cut off the racks and try the lid on the box again.

Since the corners are not strong enough, these posts must be bent under the side, secured with glue, and then cut off. Since the rest of the weaving is dense, we simply cut off the remaining posts.

A box made of newspaper tubes can serve not only as a laundry basket, but also as storage for toys. Knitting them is no more difficult than knitting, and the possibilities are very diverse. In a similar way, you can make things of various sizes: it could be a small box or chest, which is very useful in everyday life.

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On your own, it is possible to create functional things from completely standard items that usually go in the trash. The proof is provided by photographs of boxes made from newspaper tubes. Carrying out the preparatory work and weaving itself will take some time, but the result is worth the effort.

Preparation of materials

To bring to life the idea of ​​boxes made from newspaper tubes, you will need the following materials:

• Packaging of A4 newsprint paper.
• Stationery knife.
• Scissors.
• Joiner's glue moment.
• Water-based stain (any color).
• Water based varnish.
• Round shape for braiding (you can use a pan).
• Gloves.
• Knitting needle or kebab skewer.

At the first stage of preparation, you need to cut the sheets of paper in half, along the long side. The formation of the future vine begins already from the finished strips. To do this, twist a sheet onto a skewer so that a tube eventually comes out. The corner is lubricated with glue and the workpiece is secured. Done, now we do the same operation with all the sheets.

Preparing the vine involves further coloring it. To do this, you can use a water-based stain to which varnish is added. For approximately every 0.5 liter of dye, you will need 10-15 tablespoons of varnish.

Using a brush that is five centimeters or more wide, begin painting the vine. To speed up the process, you can take a whole armful, the main thing is to make sure that the material is completely painted.

Newspaper tubes should be dried loosely so that air can circulate freely between them. The vine painted with water stain can drain, so from time to time the batches of prepared tubes must be turned over.

Stages of weaving a box

Detailed instructions on how to make a box with your own hands will be given below. But before you start working, you need to learn how to weave from paper wicker like:

• Ordinary rope. It is woven by crossing two working tubes around each post. The front vine goes behind the next tube of the base, and the back goes to the front.
• Chintz. To perform it, the number of racks must be divided by 3 plus or minus 1. One or more combined working tubes are wound on one and laid behind the next main vine.

Preparing the bottom

To make it you will need cardboard, glue, decoupage napkins and an improvised press. First of all, two circles of the required diameter are cut out. The latter depends on the chosen form for braiding. Each workpiece is painted white and primed (with glue and water 1:1).

After drying, the circles are painted over with a layer of varnish and a napkin with the design you like is applied. Using a wide, clean brush dipped in varnish diluted 1:1 with water, smooth the surface of the picture. Leave to dry.

Afterwards, between two cardboard circles, the working tubes are secured (using PVA glue) and the workpiece is placed under a press until completely dry. It is shaped like a sun. Photos of boxes made from newspaper tubes with a similar bottom can be seen below. The distance between the tubes should not exceed 2 cm, but should not be less than 1.2 cm.

Weaving a box

Having chosen a weaving pattern, in our case chintz, we get to work. How to weave a box step by step:

• We place the bottom blank under the mold, which needs to be weighted by placing a bag of cereal or a dumbbell in it.
• We raise the working tubes. The right one always goes under the left one and goes up. The procedure is repeated with all racks.
• We weave the first row with regular rope, and the subsequent rows with chintz. If you have an even number of racks, then the chintz should be done with two tubes at the same time.
• You can close the weaving next to the rope.
• We thread the working vine into the weaving and drip glue near each exit of the main tubes.
• After drying, cut to the root of the stand.
• We prime it and let it dry, and then varnish it.

As it turned out, learning how to make boxes from straws yourself is not difficult, the main thing is to master the basic techniques and technologies for its manufacture. One of them is the correct extension of the working tubes. To do this, the edges of the vine are cut obliquely, smeared with glue and inserted into one another. This way you can remove unpainted sections from the material.

Cover weaving

To make it, you need to place crossed, double or triple tubes on the work table. The sun should have the same number of ends as were used when weaving the main element.

We put a newspaper vine folded in half on any main pair and begin to weave with a regular rope until the moment when it is necessary to separate the pairs. Then we make a few more rows and smoothly move to a spiral pattern.

When the diameter of the bottom of the box itself is reached, the weaving should again go in even rows, one after another. We lift the tubes and weave five more rows with rope. We strengthen each tube of the base with glue and after drying, we cut them off. We repeat the processes occurring with the box.

The master class on boxes made from newspaper tubes is completed. This type of product can be used to store both decorations and food products. At the discretion of the craftswoman, it is possible to sew a cover for her from natural fabric and attach various decor. May your hands never fail you!

Photos of boxes made from newspaper tubes

Do you like to please your loved ones with unusual gifts made with your own hands? Or maybe you are interested in crafts made from waste materials? Then you will be interested in learning how to make a box from newspaper tubes. This activity is quite exciting, easy and interesting, and the cost of the necessary materials is minimal.

You might be surprised, but old newspapers aren't just for cleaning fish or cleaning windows. They can serve you usefully for many years. Open photo tutorials on weaving baskets, boxes and even homemade small wardrobes from newspaper tubes allow you to judge how practical these things really are. A little imagination, paint and a bit of free time allow skillful hands to create real works of art.

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In this material we will talk about just such amazing and simple things. But let’s not talk for a long time about the subject of flights of fancy, but will immediately move on to a master class on creating a box from newspaper tubes.

Necessary materials:

• a stack of newspapers;
• glue;
• cardboard;
• rhinestones and ribbons for decoration;
• dye.

Process description:

• Cut the newspaper into strips and roll it into tubes, securing its edges with PVA glue.
• Then, from ready-made newspaper tubes, roll 1 large circle, 9 very small ones, 1 medium size and 14 intermediate ones between the previous two.

• Coat the edges of a large circle with glue and place thick cardboard on it. In the future, it will serve us as a solid foundation for the box.

1. Decorate a sheet of cardboard with newspaper tubes, having previously coated the strip with glue.

• Stick the smallest ones around the middle ball and secure them with a few turns of newspaper tape.
• Then make a row of the remaining balls with tape and glue a thin layer of cardboard to the side, thus forming a lid.
• Decorate the top layer of cardboard with a newspaper tube and let the structure dry a little.

• After this, dilute the glue in a small amount of water and thoroughly coat all newspaper inserts.
• Once the sticky layer is completely dry, coat the basket with paint.

• The newspaper box is almost ready, all that remains is to add some decorations and decorate the lid with openwork ribbon.
• Now you can put all the things dear to your heart into a box.

Making an antique chest

The next master class on weaving a box from newspaper tubes will teach you how to create antique-finished items. Surely you remember your grandmother’s old chests, where many valuable things were kept: grandfather’s war photographs, jewelry, ribbons and bows. As children, we loved to secretly look into this secret place dear to our hearts. Now it's time to recreate the past in your memory and try to bring childhood memories to life.

Necessary materials:

• thick cardboard;
• a stack of newspapers;
• glue;
• 3 elastic bands;
• scissors;
• pencil;
• 2 wooden planks;
• thick fabric;
• dye.

Process description:

• First, cut out the top cover from cardboard, trimming the edges of the paper in the shape of arcs.
• Secure the cardboard with 3 rubber bands so that it takes a semicircular shape.
• Then, using regular glue, make several decorative horizontal stripes and decorate them with weaving from a newspaper tube.

• Cut out a separate sheet of cardboard and cover the sides of the lid with paper. Glue the finished parts to the base.

• On the inside of the lid, use hot silicone glue to attach two wooden strips parallel to each other.

• Using newspaper tubes and fabric tape, glue the lid to the back of the chest base.
• Make a cross weave from newspapers on the base of the box and glue the joints with sheets of paper.

• Turn the finished casket on its side and strengthen its base by gluing another thick sheet of cardboard to the bottom.
• Attach one ball made from a newspaper tube to each corner.

• Take the finished chest out into the open air and coat it with varnish.
• If desired, you can attach decorative handles and a lock to the lid of the casket.

You can decorate finished caskets in completely different ways. Here taste, light perception and the special preferences of the craftswoman play a big role. Weaving a box from newspaper tubes with an unusual lid, for example, like in this photo tutorial, will look very original.

Necessary materials:

• a stack of newspapers;
• scissors;
• glue;
• thin knitting needle;
• acrylic paint;
• bottle.

Process description:

• Fold 16 newspaper tubes crosswise as shown in the photo below. The base will be denser if you deliberately lubricate the intersections of the strips with glue.
• Bend one tube in half and pass it through the adjacent horizontal line.
• Then repeat the same with the other tube. This technique is called “rope weaving”; you can see its essence in books on basket weaving.
• When 4-5 centimeters of a solid base are ready, place a weighting agent in the center. This could be a jar of water or a small bucket.

• When you reach the desired height, remove the weight and hide the ends of the tubes behind each other, thus forming a smooth edge.

• Make the lid for the box using the same principle, only weave a newspaper base of a larger diameter.
• After this, place a wine bottle in the center of the lid and braid it diagonally, creating an original handle.

• Cover all parts with acrylic paints and air dry.
• Decorate the finished basket with artificial flowers, ribbons, bows or beads.
• A simple box with an original lid is ready! It is not too deep, so it is only suitable for storing small accessories, ribbons or notes.

Weaving from newspapers. Amazing boxes with a master class from Sovenok

For lovers of using waste material and weaving from newspaper tubes, I hasten to show the amazing works of the craftswoman Sovenok. Very neat and beautiful wickerwork - trays and boxes are woven by the author from gray newspaper consumer paper. The tubes were painted with water stains - Mocha, Maple, Mocha + Rosewood, diluted and mixed in different proportions. Below you will see a detailed photo master class from the author on weaving a box with a soft textile pad on the lid

Before you start watching a detailed photo master class on weaving a box, I want to appeal to all car owners who value not only luxury, but also their safety) Everyone is well aware of the need for a DVR - an honest and impartial witness to road accidents. Video recording from a DVR, like nothing else, will allow you to prove your innocence in any trouble that has happened. If you don’t yet have such a useful and necessary device, take a look at the website of the online store of modern accessories pulsevision.ru, here you can purchase a new compact Avtovision Micro, as well as learn about all the characteristics and features of this DVR.

The photo below shows everything you need for the job. Among other things, 300 green “fern” and 100 “walnut” tubes (the tubes remained), padding polyester, tablecloth linen, an aluminum mold (a primus lid), weights from collapsible dumbbells. The only thing missing from the photo is the glue gun.

Below is the author's text. I twist the tubes from strips 7 cm wide onto a 1.5 mm knitting needle from gray “Consumer” paper. The finished thickness is 4 mm. She showed the tubes in section. I always moisten the working tubes with water so that they become elastic. At the same time, the water stain that I use to paint them does not wash off and does not stain your hands, which is convenient. For stand-ups I always use dry tubes and try not to bend or break them. I ALWAYS splice the tubes on the wrong side of the weave. To do this, I cut off the thin tip of the tube at an acute angle (as in the photo) BEHIND THE STAND, along with the gluing area (there is usually some unpainting there due to the glue). I put a new one on the tube cut off in this way with the wide end. I try not to spare the tubes. Quality comes first!

I begin to weave the lower part of the box. I splice the tubes for the risers, otherwise they won’t be long enough to bend. I glue 4 pairs of risers with a glue gun (or I DO NOT glue them together, depending on the situation). I try to place the joints of the upper and lower pairs so that they are then covered with working tubes. The remaining joints are in the center.

I use one working tube to weave 2 rows and cut them. I glue the ends. At the same time, I try not to glue them to the risers, so that later the risers can be separated beautifully without kinks. The photo shows the WRONG side.

I take another tube and again weave 2 more rows with one working tube. The photo shows the WRONG side. I marked the place where the first working tube was glued with a circle on the right. Circled on the left is the place where the working tube joins (the second row is not finished yet).

The photo shows the FRONT side. In the circle I showed how I spread double risers, helping with a knitting needle so that they don’t break. The working tube is marked with a square. In the triangle, I glued a second working tube for the “rope”.

The beginning of the second row of the “rope” was marked with thread. I will do the transition to the “reverse rope” all the time at this position.

I showed how I cut the working one. a tube so that the joint is BEHIND the riser.

I have already woven 4 rows with a rope and the distance between the risers has increased - almost 2 cm. In the triangle I showed how I use a knitting needle to dig out a place for inserting additional tubes. In the square there is a mark for the transition stop, and in the circle you can see what the transition looks like.

I wove 2 more rads with a “string”. It’s time to place the risers, and to hide the place where the placement is made, I weave a volumetric roller with gray tubes like a “rope” of 4 tubes. In the circle I showed how I glued additional tubes. In the square is the mark of the FIRST stand. Between the first and second risers there is a red working tube. Between the second and third - yellow, between the third and fourth - green, between the fourth and fifth - blue. To make the joint of this row invisible, you need to join the end of each of the four tubes in the same places at the end of its weaving. Trim the ends. I'm weaving a row. Go...

We've arrived. In the circle is the mark of the FIRST stand. Between the first and second riser there is a joint working tube, which lies behind the FIRST riser - marked it in red. I marked the remaining working tubes with the corresponding colors in the same order as at the beginning of the row.

I don’t cut the first working tube (red) yet, but lay it tightly to its beginning. The second (yellow) working tube is joined between the second and third risers, sliding it UNDER ONE tube. I help with a thin knitting needle.

The second (yellow) is docked, now you can trim the first (red). She's not going anywhere anymore.

The first one (red) is cut off and is not visible. The second (yellow) is docked. I join the third (green) between the third and fourth risers. I slide it UNDER TWO tubes.

The third (green) is docked. I cut off the second one (yellow). The last of four workers left (blue).

For order, the last one (blue) also needs to be docked between the fourth and fifth risers, but I don’t do that. I cut it BEHIND the fourth riser (shown in the square) and extend it with a green tube to continue weaving. I cut off the third working one (green). Phew... finished docking. Next, I’ll show it one more time to reinforce it. :)

Then I spread the double risers and weave them with a “rope” into 2 tubes. So, in the square I showed a working tube already extended in green. In the mug I glued a second working tube. And in the triangle I showed how I spread the risers with a knitting needle. Go...

I weave a “rope” with two tubes.

The old mark for the beginning of the row (in the circle) was left behind, since I continued weaving the last of the four tubes of the “gray” row, rather than starting the row where it should have started. As a result, this is not noticeable and I simply make another mark for the beginning of the row (shown in a square). In the triangle - transition to the “reverse rope”.

I wove 3 rows. I marked the places of transitions with circles. The square showed how long the tip I cut when doing extensions.

I try the bottom of the box on the mold - it’s time to make a smooth transition to the walls.

I built the following structure: a rotating circle, on it is a paint bucket, on it is a weight for weighting (it is under an aluminum form), a form on which is a wicker round and again a weight. I put all this on a stool and whip it. In each row, I bend the risers down a little so that the weaving fits smoothly to the shape. Wet tubes are elastic and easily take the required shape.

I lower the risers lower. Don’t forget to make the transition to the “forward” and “reverse” rope at the marked place. The distance between the risers is less than 2 cm, so I don’t double them.

The risers are at the bottom and you can turn the form over.

At a height of 4.5 cm, I begin to weave a rope from 4 tubes. I added additional tubes (put them next to the risers and bent them). Shall we repeat the lesson? The first riser is marked with pink thread, the tubes are decorated in the same order as last time. I'm weaving a row.

I wove a row. I'm joining. It's half past two in the morning, so no comments.

The docking is complete. I extend the blue tube, mark the beginning of the row again with a pin and...

I add 3 working tubes for weaving the second row.

2 gray rows of 4 tubes are already ready. Here is the result. The joints are not visible. There is a bend left.

Before weaving the bends, I moisten the risers with water so that they fit better. For this I use a soft brush. I bend one riser BEHIND one, IN FRONT of two, down.

The second riser is again BEHIND one, IN FRONT of two, down.

The rest are the same. At the same time, I TILT the bend inside the braid.

There are 3 last stops left.

I put the first one (red) also BEHIND one, IN FRONT of two and DOWN

I lay the second one (yellow) in the same way.

All three are packed. The joint is invisible. Hooray!!! The bottom part is done!

I'm starting to make a lid. I cut out 2 circles with a diameter of 8 cm from thick cardboard. Using a ruler, I put marks around the circumference at a distance of 1 cm. Then (important!) I draw radii to them from the center. I cut out larger circles from linen and sew a needle-forward seam along the edge to then tighten the fabric. I put padding polyester on a fabric circle, a cardboard circle on top and tie it with thread. Since the marks on the mug remained under the fabric, when gluing the tubes I was guided by the radii. On the right I showed a ready-made soft circle from the inside out.

I hot glue the risers. There were 26 of them.

I glued the risers. All that remains is to glue the second soft pad.

Ready. You can start weaving, but STOP! I forgot something. I will be weaving a rope from 4 tubes, so I take the tubes moistened with water and glue them between the risers with hot glue (marked them in yellow). The working tubes are wet, the risers are dry.

I am weaving a “rope” from 4 tubes.

The gray row is finished, the photo shows the WRONG side. In the yellow circle I showed where the last of the four working tubes was built up in green. There's a joint in the black oval. The row does not fit tightly to the circle. This means that the circle on the wrong side needs to be made larger next time.

I weave a “straight” and “reverse rope”, marking with a pin the riser at which I make the transition.

I wove 4 rows. This is what transitions look like. The distance between the risers has increased, it’s time to double them.

I wove 3 more rows and substituted 4 working tubes for weaving a gray “rope”.

The gray “rope” is ready.

I'm trying it on for shape. Yes.... we should have started a smooth transition to the wall earlier, but that’s how it happened. Next time I'll do less stand-ups. Transitions are marked in yellow.

I built the pyramid again.

I spread the bones, helping with a thick knitting needle.

I weave a “rope” into 2 tubes. You have to simultaneously raise the risers and lower them when weaving. The distance between them is very small - inconvenient. But what can you do... it didn’t fit into the mold. :(I'll take it into account next time.

I continue to weave and lower the risers.

Since the weaving bends downwards, the distance between the risers almost does not increase. Weaving is inconvenient. :(

The stands had to be lowered quite steeply - in just 5 rows. I turn it over.

I continue to weave upwards with risers. It's cramped, the wet tubes are shaggy. I hide this mess as best I can.

Since it is impossible to try on the lid with protruding risers, I weave it by eye, not very tightly to the shape. Or I take out the mold, try it on the base of the box and estimate approximately how much wider the lid should be than the mold.

The height of the lid is 5 cm. The height of the bottom part of the box is the same, BEFORE the gray volumetric rims. I cut off the working tubes.

Since the distance between the risers is small, there is nowhere to hide them - I cut them off. :(((