Serbian costumes. SVO. Serbs - Pique vest. Social and family life

1. Dragana Radojicic Ethnographic Institute of the Serbian Academy of Sciences and Arts (SANU) Belgrade SERBIAN NATIONAL COSTUME
Ethnographic Institute of the Serbian Academy of Sciences and Arts (SANU) BelgradeNational costume occupies a prominent place in the culture and traditions of the Serbian people. Each region inhabited by Serbs was characterized by a special costume. Various influences, climatic, geographical, social and cultural-historical, over the centuries influenced the formation of the national costume in Serbia, containing, both in its typical properties and in relation to the formation of individual parts of clothing and jewelry, elements of past eras , in which different cultural layers replaced each other, growing into each other.
Ethnographic Institute of the Serbian Academy of Sciences and Arts (SANU) Belgrade The most striking are elements of the ancient Balkan proto-Slavic and Slavic cultures, then the Byzantine and Serbian medieval layers, the Turkish-oriental layering and trends from European countries belonging to relatively recent times.
Ethnographic Institute of the Serbian Academy of Sciences and Arts (SANU) Belgrade The role of the national costume as a symbol of ethnic identity throughout history is very important, and it stands out for its artistic and aesthetic values. The spread of individual national costumes, and therefore the general appearance of various forms and types of national costumes, rich in their varied types and subspecies, and their grouping are inevitably associated with the origin of the population and migration movements.
Ethnographic Institute of the Serbian Academy of Sciences and Arts (SANU) Belgrade The prevalence of the main types of clothing is not strictly limited, but there are also transitional stripes in which the characteristics of the adjacent zones mutually penetrate each other. It is necessary to emphasize the people's creative spirit and the richness of internal aesthetic feelings and comprehension of beauty.
Ethnographic Institute of the Serbian Academy of Sciences and Arts (SANU) Belgrade Based on the studied materials of the 19th and 20th centuries, we have data on the properties of traditional costume, while earlier periods, regarding the clothing of the rural population in Serbia, as in most countries of the Balkan Peninsula, are less known, from - for lack of material evidence. However, fragmentary material from earlier centuries (archaeological finds, written and artistic sources), together with information about historical and socio-cultural events, allowed the restoration of individual items of clothing. Clothing was almost entirely made by women in the home industry for their families, with the exception of individual items of clothing and jewelry, which were the product of artisans.
Ethnographic Institute of the Serbian Academy of Sciences and Arts (SANU) Belgrade Rural costumes of the period of the 19th and 20th centuries are divided into Dinaric, Panonian, Central Balkan and Shopska, among which some cover several national and ethnic groups.
Ethnographic Institute of the Serbian Academy of Sciences and Arts (SANU) Belgrade The Dinaric type of national costume covers the south-eastern part of Serbia and is characterized by a red cloth cap (fes with shamiye<платком>), long shirt (canvas - Dinaric type), pregacha<передник>, cloth tooth<длиннополый жилет>(with embroidery or a patch made of colored cloth), a white cloth dress, for a female type of clothing, and for a male costume - a cloth hat (fes with a wrapped red shawl in the form of a turban), a shirt, pellegrini - pants made of woolen fabric with a wide back and legs to mid-calf, wool belt and leather silav belt, currents<металлические наколки>, red cloth cape.
Ethnographic Institute of the Serbian Academy of Sciences and Arts (SANU) Belgrade Costumes of the northwestern and central parts of Serbia contain some elements of Panonian, Dinaric and Central Balkan costume. The most characteristic features are the features of the Panonian costume (konja<чепец>and ubradach<платок>), two long pregaches<передника>without fringe, long shirts (rubies) with Panonian or Dinarian characteristics, while the men's costume is characterized by a conical hat, rubies (shirt and trousers), cloth leather clothing.
Ethnographic Institute of the Serbian Academy of Sciences and Arts (SANU) Belgrade Items of urban costume (elek) were also widely used<жилет>, libade<жакет>, Bayadere<широкий шелковый пояс>, antheria<платье>, gunj krdzhalinac<короткая куртка с рукавами>, chakshire poturlie<широкие штаны>, thrombolos<шелковый пояс>), and from a soldier's uniform a shaykach hat, a koporan<куртка солдатской выкройки>.
Ethnographic Institute of the Serbian Academy of Sciences and Arts (SANU) Belgrade Almost all ethnic groups in the territory of Vojvodina had features of the Panonian type of costume. Women's and men's linen clothing was worn in both summer and winter, men's shirts and trousers, as well as women's shoulder coats<короткая рубашка>and scoots<полы>, made of smooth linen floors, which were then assembled, and in winter they wore a woolen skirt and pregach<передник>, as well as different types of fur vests (leather jacket and casing), leather cape (opaklia), gun (dorets) and cloak.
Ethnographic Institute of the Serbian Academy of Sciences and Arts (SANU) Belgrade Along with light leather shoes - opants, with belts, and kapichara - their variety, on the same occasions they wore boots and shoes. Married women covered their heads with a type of konji - jega (chepats)<чепец>). The festive costume was decorated with gold and white embroidery with stylized floral patterns.
Ethnographic Institute of the Serbian Academy of Sciences and Arts (SANU) Belgrade The Central Balkans region covers the region of Kosovo and Metohija, southern and central parts of Serbia. Men's costume was characterized by a white cloth garment decorated with black woolen cords, along with narrow cloth trousers, while shorter and narrower white cloth tops were worn over the shirt. Women wore trvei on their heads<вид шапочки>(in the form of braids made of wool) with prevez<длинный платок>, a variant of which is a handbrake with a cap-shaped top. They wore skirts (boyche, bishche, zaprega, zaviyacha, vuta, futa) of various lengths, open in the front. A pregacha was worn over a shirt and skirt<передник>and a belt, as well as a short spruce<безрукавку>, white tooth<длиннополый жилет>and a white cloth dress with sleeves.
Ethnographic Institute of the Serbian Academy of Sciences and Arts (SANU) Belgrade The costume of the Shops region is called by the common word dreje or drehi. A woman's costume consists of: a long canvas shirt (like a tunic), a belt (fabric), outerwear cloth (sukman), litak (muer) and manovil<платье без рукавов>, as well as cloth outerwear with long sleeves - koliya and modro and casing<меховой жилет>without sleeves. They wore a bribe scarf (white) on their heads. A men's suit is characterized by a shirt made of hemp linen and benevreke pants, a white cloth dress with sleeves - drey, a long sleeveless elek, a lamb fur coat<шапка>, cloth tozlutsy<голенища>, guys< легкая кожаная обувь>from untreated leather.
Ethnographic Institute of the Serbian Academy of Sciences and Arts (SANU) Belgrade Elements of the costume of the Timok-Branicevo region of north-eastern Serbia show features of the Central Balkan, Shopska and Panonian and costumes of the neighboring regions of Romania and Bulgaria. Several types of costumes were in use in these areas. Along with the differences in the costumes of the Serbian and Wallachian populations, some common elements are also visible, such as white cloth parts of clothing (zubun<длиннополый жилет>, prelactenic<жилет с короткими рукавами>, dress, pants), fur coat<шапка>, opants made of untreated leather, and geometric ornaments mainly in woolen clothes<передников>.
Ethnographic Institute of the Serbian Academy of Sciences and Arts (SANU) Belgrade Differences in the clothing of the urban and rural population are also noticeable. In most of the Serbian ethnic space, urban clothing developed under Turkish-Oriental influence, and later, as for example in the cities of the Panonian region and the Adriatic coast, mainly under European influence.
Ethnographic Institute of the Serbian Academy of Sciences and Arts (SANU) Belgrade The clothes of women from the city of Prizren were distinguished by silk dimia<шаровары>and anterii (an outer garment of red velvet, decorated with silver thread and gold embroidery) and a chalenka headdress (with a network of beads and metal ornaments). Women's clothing in Belgrade under Western influence included the women's silk shirt, the long fistan dress made of colored satin, the libade<жакет>, a silk bayadère belt, and a pearl tepeluk on her head.
Ethnographic Institute of the Serbian Academy of Sciences and Arts (SANU) Belgrade Men's costume was also under European influence, the main parts of which are: cloth pants poturlie, anteria, silk belt trombolos and fez. The development of industry and trade, and a number of other factors influenced the loss of the national costume in everyday use, so that from the beginning of the 20th century, since the traditional manner of dressing gave way to urban, European costume, it became a value of cultural and historical heritage. In everyday use, it continued to be worn only as an exception or only in certain parts of it, in closed villages or on certain special occasions.
Ethnographic Institute of the Serbian Academy of Sciences and Arts (SANU) Belgrade  Opants  A type of low footwear, the same shape for both sexes and for all ages, known in Serbia already in the early Middle Ages. In the 19th century, several types of them were worn. Opants made of undressed pork, beef, calf, lamb or bovine leather were the most common, they were worn the longest, under different names: prost, vrtsan, seimenski, sirovtsy, shivatsy, haiduchki, along with drvenyaki made of willow, linden/birch wood.
Ethnographic Institute of the Serbian Academy of Sciences and Arts (SANU) Belgrade Unprocessed opants were home-made. Since 1850, red opanci-tsrvenyats began to be produced in Serbia and the shoemaker-opancar craft developed. At the end of the 19th century, crafted, more durable and better-quality opans appeared: jonashi, stavlenica, shabachka or šilkan, which were first worn in western Serbia, and then in eastern.
Ethnographic Institute of the Serbian Academy of Sciences and Arts (SANU) Belgrade  Šajkača Šajkača – a type of hat made of Šajak material (wool fabric handicraft). With the introduction of conscription in Serbia, the shajkacha began to be worn as an element of a soldier’s uniform, which penetrated into men’s clothing at the end of the 19th century, when the suit acquired elements of soldier’s clothing. Over time, she completely pushed fez out of use. Having part of the uniform with you was a status symbol. There were soldiers' and officers' uniforms, with a small braid over the eyes, and as a uniform they disappeared until the end of the Second World War. The Šajkača became the Serbian national hat, which is still worn in everyday use by peasants in central Serbia.
Ethnographic Institute of the Serbian Academy of Sciences and Arts (SANU) Belgrade  Pants There were three main types of muš pants: uskie white benevreki, pelengir<штаны типа шаровар, с широким задом>, wide turachs, or poturlie, similar to Turkish trousers, and in some places they also wore underpants as outerwear, instead of pants. Pelengirs or trousers were made of felted cloth, with wide short legs (below the knee), common in the territory of Stari Vlah and in the Dinaric regions.
Ethnographic Institute of the Serbian Academy of Sciences and Arts (SANU) Belgrade Benevreki made of white cloth, with narrow legs and cut at the bottom, with a small back and a rather low waist and slits in the upper front part, were most often found in eastern Serbia and Vojvodina. Wide Turtachi/Poturlie pants were first worn in cities; they were made of blue and black cloth, lavishly decorated with cords, and over time they were adopted by the rural population. At the beginning of the 20th century, they came into common use as part of the national costume in Serbia.
Ethnographic Institute of the Serbian Academy of Sciences and Arts (SANU) Belgrade  Zubun Doramak, sadak, churdija, a cloth piece of clothing in white, less often red, sleeveless, open at the front, of various lengths, an invariable part of the traditional clothing culture of the Serbian people during the 19th and early 19th centuries half of the 20th century. It was worn for a whole year and was considered very practical.
Ethnographic Institute of the Serbian Academy of Sciences and Arts (SANU) Belgrade It combines East Asian and Byzantine-Serbian elements. Magnificently decorated, with embroidery or patches, with various ornaments, most often with red wool yarn, blue or green, stylized geometric patterns, or floral motifs, with or without a tassel, in a visual-aesthetic sense it is one of the most representative parts of the Serbian national costume.
Ethnographic Institute of the Serbian Academy of Sciences and Arts (SANU) Belgrade  Elek Fermen, a short, sleeveless, decorative outer garment, waist-length. It was worn over a shirt, made from black/white cloth, homespun cotton, plush, decorated with metal threads and cords, sewn with strips of red cloth, thin black cotton or linen of various colors. It was sewn by the Abajii and Terzii. It fastened under the breasts and emphasized the beauty of the woman.
Ethnographic Institute of the Serbian Academy of Sciences and Arts (SANU) Belgrade In the middle of the 19th century, somewhere in the middle of the 19th century, they wore a pamukliche filled with cotton, gathered at the chest, lined and fastened with four buttons made of silver yarn. A shorter fir-tree, with sewn-in longitudinal lines, and a heart-shaped cutout on the chest, was worn in the summer. Over the wedding shirt, richer brides wore a “srmali” fir tree, made of velvet/satin, corded, embroidered with silver threads, decorated with sparkles.
Ethnographic Institute of the Serbian Academy of Sciences and Arts (SANU) Belgrade  Belt It was a symbolic part of the costume in the Middle Ages, it had a magical meaning, denoted the masculine principle and strength, symbolized feudal power, which is codified in the Law of Stefan Dušan. They were made in the Serbian, Bosnian, Hungarian, Venetian, Greek, Dubrovnik style, and they were made of cruciform, round, flower-like plaques, and others, with images of people. In the past, people girded themselves with wide, single-colored long woolen belts, and wider fabrics<вид пояса>began to be worn later.
Ethnographic Institute of the Serbian Academy of Sciences and Arts (SANU) Belgrade One of the oldest, woven from white wool, rudičar, 3-4 meters long, 20 centimeters wide, ending in a long fringe. Buttons and bells were sewn to narrow, multi-colored cotton belts, a preopasach belt made of silver coins was hung on a belt chain, champra paftas were also worn on the belt<декоративные пряжки>. Kanitsi “variegated belts” were worn by wealthy men, and on top of them were leather belts sili/silai, decorated with gold embroidery, which went out of use at the beginning of the 20th century.
Ethnographic Institute of the Serbian Academy of Sciences and Arts (SANU) Belgrade On ceremonial occasions they wore a kovanik/kovanik, the front of which was a metal tile decorated with multi-colored stones. The belt had a decorative and practical function; it tightened the shirt and emphasized the beauty of the woman’s waist.

Send your good work in the knowledge base is simple. Use the form below

Students, graduate students, young scientists who use the knowledge base in their studies and work will be very grateful to you.

There is no HTML version of the work yet.
You can download the archive of the work by clicking on the link below.

Similar documents

Familiarization with the history of development and characteristic features of the national Belarusian costume. Characteristic features of women's and men's national costume. Description of traditional outerwear for women and men, hats, shoes and accessories.

course work, added 05/26/2015

The origins of the appearance of the national costume of the Don Cossacks, the influence of Russian and Turkic peoples on it. Specifics of the sliver dress from the point of view of everyday use and aesthetic value. The role of folk costume in the study of traditional culture.

abstract, added 04/25/2011

Costume as the most striking and original determinant of nationality. Ways of development of decorative and applied art of the Tatars. Features of the formation and coloring of Tatar national clothing, traditional costume jewelry.

abstract, added 10/20/2012

Description of the Moldavian national costume. Features of men's and women's traditional national clothing, its comparative analysis. Specifics of traditional hats, types of outerwear. Traditional Moldavian shoes. Types of belts.

article, added 02/15/2011

A set of men's Belarusian national costume: underwear and outerwear, hats, shoes. Women's shirt, types of collar, types of ponev. The sleeveless jacket as an integral part of the women's clothing complex in the 19th–early 20th centuries. Accessories, jewelry, embroidery.

course work, added 07/13/2012

Familiarization with the history of the development of ancient Russian costumes of the pre-Mongol period and Moscow Rus'. Consideration of the features of the cut of everyday and festive men's and women's clothing of the 18th-19th centuries. Studying the characteristic features of the Russian national costume.

course of lectures, added 08/14/2010

Folk costume as one of the most ancient and widespread types of folk decorative and applied art. A traditional set of clothing characteristic of a particular area. Uniforms of the Cossacks. Russian-Ukrainian basis of the Cossack women's costume.

article, added 12/18/2009

National household items of the peoples of the Amur region. Types of patterns that craftswomen used to decorate clothes and dishes. Description of a fisherman's costume made of fish skin and an Udege hunter's costume. Nanai women's wedding robe "sike". National ornaments.

Porcelain doll with a baby.

Dolls in folk costumes No. 70. Serbian festive costume.

A doll with dark hair, a white shirt with lace and red bows on the sleeves, an elegant red vest, a striped skirt and apron.

Rural costumes of Serbia during the 19th and 20th centuries are divided into Dinaric, Panonian, Central Balkan and Shopska, among which some span several national and ethnic groups.

Women's and men's linen clothes were worn in both summer and winter, men's shirts and trousers, as well as women's shoulder coats and skutas, made of even linen floors, which were then assembled, and in winter they wore a woolen skirt and pregacha, as well as different types fur vests, leather cape, cloak.

Dolls in folk costumes No. 70. Serbian festive costume. Photo of the doll. Elek is a sleeveless vest made of red cloth, decorated with gold embroidery and cord.

Cloth - skirt. Koszul shirt decorated with lace and ribbons.

Very beautiful doll hairstyle.

The women's Serbian national costume is characterized by a tunic-shaped shirt (kosulja); it was richly decorated with embroidery, lace and braid. Over the shirt they wore a short, richly decorated sleeveless vest (jelek) made of cloth, velvet or satin.

A mandatory part of the costume is a homespun, richly ornamented apron. In some areas, married women wore two aprons - a front and a back, as in northern Bulgaria. The apron still exists today, but it is made from purchased fabric and is less decorated.

The skirts (sukna) of Serbian peasant women differ by region in material, cut and name. Skirts are made from wool and cotton fabrics. Women gird themselves with belts (fabric). They are similar to men's, only shorter and narrower. They are fastened with various types of metal buckles.

Women's shoes are stockings, socks and socks (like men's), only women's stockings are shorter than men's and are more beautifully knitted.

Headdresses and hairstyles differed between married women and girls. They wore fez (sometimes they were wrapped with scarves); hats trimmed with cord, coins, or with braids wrapped around them; scarves knitted in various ways.

The folk costume is complemented by various decorations - coins, necklaces, earrings, bracelets, flowers, woven or knitted bags (bags).

Married women covered their heads with a type of konji - jega (cap). The festive costume was decorated with gold and white embroidery with stylized floral patterns. Women also wore trveљ (in the form of braids made of wool) on their heads with a prevez, a variant of which is a handbrake with an upper part in the form of a cap.

They wore skirts of various lengths, open at the front. Over the shirt and skirt they wore a pregacha and a belt, as well as a short spruce, a white zubun and a white cloth dress with sleeves.

Šumadija (Central Serbia)

Elek Fermen is a short, sleeveless, decorative outer garment, waist-length. It was worn over a shirt, made from black/white cloth, homespun cotton, plush, decorated with metal threads and cords, sewn with strips of red cloth, thin black cotton or linen of various colors.

(it becomes clear why the Serbian costume appeared in this episode): Under Elizabeth there were many immigrants from Serbia. Military men and representatives of famous Serbian families: Croats, Chorbs, Cvetanovichs, Vuichs, Serezlis, which served as the basis for the formation of Serbian settlements on Ukrainian lands - New Serbia and Slavic Serbia. Under Catherine II, they became part of the Novorossiysk province, the name disappeared, but the Serbs remained. It is not known exactly how many Serbian citizens are in Russia. Now in Russia, according to some sources, there are 30 thousand of them, although the figure is also mentioned - 80 thousand (the CIS may be taken into account).

Serbia is a country friendly to Russia, whose residents love and respect the Russian people. Russian tourists often travel to Montenegro and Croatia, but they come to Serbia much less often, because this small country has no access to the sea. For this reason, we do not know much about the Serbs, their culture and traditions. The Quelle online store publishes several articles about national clothing of different countries, Serbia is one of them.

As in other countries of the world, clothes have long been handmade by women. Occasionally, clothes were made by hired tailors, but gradually professional craftsmen began to sew dresses, and with the passage of time and the automation of production, their cost decreased significantly.

The oldest elements of the men's national costume are a tunic-like shirt and trousers with narrow or wide shafts, sewn from various types of linen or cloth. Men's outerwear is a long caftan and a short jacket with sleeves. A short sleeveless vest was worn over the jacket, and on holidays a short sleeveless camisole made of thin cloth was worn. In modern Serbia, the festive national costume is still decorated with silver buttons or cords and worn for special occasions.

An integral part of the men's national costume was the belt. The most famous are the patterned sashes, which were used to belt both men and women. It was not enough to simply buy a beautiful dress or have it sewn: without a belt, the outfit would be incomplete. The embroidery and ornaments on the belt varied depending on the region. Belts are now falling out of use, as are the leather belts with compartments for weapons and wallets, which were popular among men.

The women's wardrobe, like the men's, was characterized by a long tunic-shirt, decorated with lace, beads, braid and embroidery. On top was worn a short sleeveless vest made of material appropriate to the situation and social status: satin and velvet or linen and cotton.

An obligatory part of the costume is an apron, which used to be homespun, but is now purchased, but richly decorated. In some areas, married women wore back and front aprons at the same time.

Experts can determine regional affiliation by the national costume, because clothing differed depending on the region. Some areas were influenced by settlers, migrations or invaders, so their outfits were significantly different from neighboring ones.

In modern Serbia, the national costume is festive clothing, which is worn for celebrations, weddings, and anniversaries. Features of national attire in everyday life are especially common in Šumadija and Eastern Serbia. Many girls want to buy an evening dress for a holiday in accordance with their nationality, paying tribute to traditions. However, for everyday wear, the vast majority choose clothing from European brands, preferring to buy it in an online store or in a shopping center. For example, Quelle has a wide variety of interesting models. Of course, Serbian folk costume still influences urban fashion, not to mention the clothing of villagers. For example, sometimes city women wear fabric-like belts, sack bags and shoes, adapted to the modern style, but retaining the features of Serbia centuries ago.

Today we continue to dress, but not just like that, but very much in a souvenir way, because we will talk about the folk dress - the national Serbian costume. The main thing here is to get a taste for it, because every part of Serbia has its own skirts, blouses, pantaloons, with a cut and embroidery characteristic of that particular place. If you wish, you can collect a whole collection. Previously, in Serbia, guests were greeted by their clothes in the full sense of the word, because it was she who informed where exactly the friend was coming from, whether he was a city dweller or a “village”, rich or poor, etc. And since you and I, my friends, initially agreed that we are not interested in Chinese craftsmen, I will immediately note: in Serbia there are still a sufficient number of atelier companies that are engaged in sewing national clothing. The national craze for folklore is not in vain! One of the most popular “radionics”, “Srbiyanski vez”, is located in our Obrenovec, which I already wrote about earlier (), thanks to her for most of the photographs in this post.

I have a long-standing love affair with folklore clothing: from every trip I tried to bring something back as a souvenir. There were also incidents: I remember that I mistook a man’s vest for part of a woman’s wardrobe, and when I showed up to work at the office in a Croatian shirt (from the first photo), people asked in surprise: “Didn’t you go to Croatia, but to Kyiv?” I also thought then: “What interesting stereotypes our people have: if there is embroidery on a blouse, it means it is from Ukraine.”)) But recently I saw this photo from Vojvodina

and this one, from the Serbian town of Vranje, and... our people understood!))

Glamoč, Bosnia
Backa, Serbia

Šumadija, Serbia

Prizren, Kosovo

And this beauty is from Kosovo. And this couple too.

Men's "pantaloons" were made from coarse woolen cloth - shayak. Most of all, they resemble army riding pants - the influence of history, what can you say! In Serbia they are called "pantalone na brich". And the waist was supposed to be wrapped at least three times with a multi-colored woolen belt (Fabric), and a free end was always left on the left (usually) side.

Socks (Charapas) were supposed to be long, almost to the knee. They were knitted from black wool and decorated with a special pattern - “colored wicker”. On their legs were leather opants or jonashi. They were distinguished by a thick sole and a beak-shaped toe. I’ll add that “opantsi” shoes are extremely light and pleasant, and sometimes I wear them with pleasure!

And the toilet also ended with greetings from Serbian military history - a shaykachi hat. I will not be mistaken if I say that the shaykacha is the same “distinctive sign” of a Serb as, say, an aerodrome cap is a resident of “sunny Telavi”.

Serbian women dressed much brighter than their stern men. For example, the embroidery on a woman's linen shirt was much richer and was often complemented by lace trim.

The women's vest and antheria were richly decorated with gold, silver or colored embroidery, which looked unusually bright against a dark background. And our Shumadi fashionistas also wore a zubun (on the right) in the cold season - doesn’t the word remind you of anything? :).

The skirt was supposed to be darker than “koszulya”, and the color of the stripes on it matched the embroidery details on the shirt.
By the way, residents of Vojvodina also wore white skirts - that’s the regional difference!